Noonans Mayfair
Los 332
An Art Deco carved emerald, sapphire and diamond jardinière brooch, circa 1930, the vase formed from a pear-shaped emerald bead, weighing 13.60 carats, carved to both sides with an undulating pattern, with vari-shaped step-cut diamond detailing, the whole issuing a tree with brilliant-cut diamond foliage and fruits set with buff-top sapphires and vari-cut diamonds, mounted in platinum, unsigned, French assay mark, numbered ‘3563’, cased by Boucheron, total diamond weight very approximately 8.00 carats, length 6cm. £10,000-£15,000 --- Accompanied by a report from The Gem and Pearl Laboratory. Please contact the department for further details. During the early decades of the 20th century the use of carved Mughal emeralds in contemporary jewellery reflected the growing fascination of master jewellers with the decorative arts of India. Louis Boucheron and Jacques Cartier, amongst others, were charmed by the ‘exotic’ arts and splendour of India and frequently visited seeking commissions and purchasing gemstones for their Western clients. These Indian-inspired jewels were particularly popular amongst British clientele due to the Imperial interests of the country at the time. The cultural fascination between the two continents was, however, reciprocal and the Indian nobility regularly travelled to Europe, visiting Boucheron, Cartier and other firms, to have their historical jewels remodelled into contemporary designs. This brooch encapsulates several influences and innovations of the period, not only through the use of an Indian carved emerald bead but also in the Japanese-inspired motif of the Bonsai tree. The fascination with non-European cultures also extended to the arts of China and Japan. Oriental motifs were readily incorporated into designs and the brooch offered here exemplifies the Japanese influence on the traditional European giardinetto brooch. Advancements in cutting techniques also enabled the fine jewellery houses of the period to combine vari-cut gemstones and create the defining geometric shapes of the era. Literature: Nadelhoffer H., ‘Cartier’, London 1984, pub. Thames & Hudson. Néret, G., ‘Boucheron, Four Generations of a World-Renowned Jeweler’, New York, 1988, pub. Rizzoli. Condition Report Accompanied by a report from The Gem and Pearl Laboratory stating that the emerald, weighing 13.58 carats, is of Colombian origin with evidence of moderate clarity enhancement. Later clip fitting. Some spot repairs to reverse - likely as a result of neat removal of original brooch fitting. Later added spikes to reverse to aid clip fitting. Clip with good tension, side-to-side movement of pins when closed. Diamonds bright and lively. Sapphires well matched. Emerald with good transparency, some eye visible inclusions as typical for material, iridescent patch bottom left (from front). Light wear to platinum. Gallery with French dog’s head assay mark for platinum. Base of jardiniere numbered ‘3563’. Unsigned. Overall good condition. Gross weight 24.2gm. Case in good condition.
