Kerry Taylor Auctions
Los 169
A rare and important Boué Soeurs Robe de Style 'Romance', Autumn-Winter 1925-26, unlabelled, of black Chantilly lace, adorned with swags of ribbon-work roses in shades of pink, silver lamé florets, yellow and green ribbon laburnum-like fronds, cut low to front, back and sides with crin-stiffened gathers to skirt sides; worn over a replacement slip with original curved silver lame panel below the breast, bust approx 92cm, 36inThe Robe de Style gown was a fashion phenomenon occurring from the teens through to the 1920s - Boue Soeurs and Jeanne Lanvin being the main proponents, although most fashion houses included them in their repertoire.The romantic, frivolous and highly impractical 18th century-inspired gown with hooped pannier hips, worn as evening wear, captured the imaginations of women emerging from the gloom and privations of the Great War. Examples are rare, especially in good condition such as this one, where the brightness of the silk flowers are as fresh as the day they were made.Waleria Dorogova, scholar and leading authority on Boué Soeurs has researched this piece and writes:Boué Sœurs, active from 1899 to 1957, were known for a francophile historicist style and the Robe de Style 'Romance' attests to their favoured aesthetic. Nearly identical versions of this design can be found at the MET, Palais Galliera and Holbæk Museum (Denmark). The fact that the same style was also executed in powder pink lace (Design Museum Copenhagen) suggests that it was very popular. A photograph in Les Modes documents that 'Romance' was worn by Isabel Rodriguez, a celebrated Spanish dancer of Madrid's Royal Theatre, who appeared in the now lost Rudolph Valentino motion picture 'L'Hacienda Rouge' (A Sainted Devil, 1925), dressed by Boué Sœurs. Indeed, the black lace of 'Romance' has a Spanish feel to it, as it is reminiscent of Francisco de Goya's portraits of Spanish aristocrats. Black Chantilly lace over various coloured silks, a recurring combination at Maison Boué over many decades, can also be seen as a nod to the Second Empire, an epoch frequently remembered by the house. The rose festoons with their fine colour gradations and the band of lamé underneath the bust are the result of Sylvie Boué's artistic nature: Her appreciation of the Rococo style, which featured bands of roses in painting and applied arts, such as Sèvres porcelain, as well as her interest in the effects of artificial light on metallised cloth, which she meticulously studied by using fabrics from Paris' theatre suppliers. In an article instalment written by Jeanne Boué for Arts and Decoration in 1922-23 she commented on the characteristic silk roses: 'When a creation is successful, realizes our ideals, we finish it with ribbon or lace adornments, giving the completed dress the same care and taste that an artist gives in the final strokes to his pastel painting. The finishing touch is usually made with our inimitable artificial flowers - the exceptional cachet of Boué Sœurs'. CONDITION REPORT: Condition is good, the colourful floral adornments are fresh and good, silver lamé florets have tarnished. There is a vertical join in the lace at the lower right front hem which may be a repair, may be a seam, it is hard to say, and not immediately noticeable either way. Occasional small breaks in the tulle ground have been invisibly mended where necessary, mainly over right breast area. Fine repair to side of pres-stud closure but invisible also. The occasional small, minor hole in the tulle but nothing serious or obvious. The lace is generally good and complete with original crin stiffeners at the hips, which are slightly creased but we haven't pressed them. The original slip must have disintegrated - but the silver lame survived and has been re-mounted onto a sympathetically reproduced separate pink silk petticoat. Lamé panel on the slip is heavily tarnished.
