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A CHINESE CLOISONNE ENAMEL GARLIC-MOUTH VASE QING DYNASTY OR LATER The globular body brightly enamelled with lotus in different stages of bloom amongst seed pods, curly leaves and millet above crashing waves, the upper section decorated with stylised lotus on scrolling tendrils, below a ruyi-border at the mouth rim, all reserved on a turquoise ground, 2.97kg, 35.5cm. Provenance: from an English private collection, London, acquired prior to 2000.
A CHINESE CANTON ENAMEL EUROPEAN SUBJECT EWER AND COVER QING DYNASTY Painted with a continuous scene depicting a couple drinking and with a child seated by a gnarled tree, with attendants discreetly carrying dinnerwares, the base with a stylised floral sprig, the cover decorated with a flowerhead, 19.5cm overall. (2)
SEVEN CHINESE CANTON ENAMEL ITEMS 18TH AND 19TH CENTURY Comprising: a cup painted with stylised floral scrolls imitating cloisonné enamel, a cup with a pheasant perching on a prunus branch, a cup stand with two bats encircling a shou character to the centre, two lobed dishes with a central flowerhead surrounded by Buddhist emblems, an oval box and cover with fruits and blossoming flowers, and a small oval plaque with two boys in a landscape scene, 18.5cm. (8) Provenance: from a private collection, London, mostly acquired in the 1980s and 1990s.
A COLLECTION OF CHINESE CANTON ENAMEL CUPS AND DISHES 18TH/19TH CENTURY Comprising: a set of six cups and six dishes, variously decorated with archaistic vessels, scholar's objects, fruits and flowers, mythical beasts, the reverse with bats amidst cloud designs, together with a cup and a dish enamelled with figures in landscapes, 10.3cm max. (14) Provenance: from a private collection, London, mostly acquired in the 1980s and 1990s.
SEVEN CHINESE CLOISONNE ENAMEL ITEMS 18TH CENTURY AND LATER Comprising: two boxes and covers, a pair of miniature vases, a red-ground vase, a hexagonal finial, and a U-shaped cup, variously decorated with archaistic scrolls, flowerheads, fruiting floral branches and insects, 16cm max. (8) Provenance: from a private collection, London, mostly acquired in the 1980s and 1990s.
SIX CHINESE PORCELAIN ITEMS KANGXI AND LATER Comprising: three ovoid jars, a bottle vase, a miniature beaker vase, a stem cup and three pierced wood covers, variously decorated with a landscape scene, figures and floral designs, in underglaze blue and with later enamel decoration, 18.5cm. (9) Provenance: from a private collection, London, mostly acquired in the 1980s and 1990s.
A pair of 19th century Bohemian enamel and glass vases in the manner of Moser. Each vase having enamelling to the body with hand painted florals and gilt decoration to green glass. The vase having a flared rim with waisted neck, raised over a stepped base. Some minor chips to glass and enamel. Overall good condition with some wear to gilt. Measures 33cm tall.
A collection of 20th century Chinese cloisonne enamel items. To include pair of blue enamel ginger jars in the prunus pattern. A pair of gilt on black vases of baluster form with waisted necks with mark to base, an enamelled duck figure and a cloisonne envelope opener in case. Measures 20cm tall
AN ENAMEL AND GEM-SET BROOCHModelled as a stylised dragonfly, the green and blue plique-à-jour wings accented by oval-shaped rubies and single-cut diamonds, with similarly-set ruby and diamond body, the eyes embellished with oval-shaped emeralds, with a ruby cabochon accent, mounted in gold, length 7cm, width 10.1cmCondition Report: Rubies: of purplish-red hue, good transparency, medium to dark tone, overall well matched in colourDiamonds: too small to assess colour or clarity - overall bright and well matchedEmeralds: of bluish-green hue, medium tone, good transparency, well matched in colourPlique-à-jour: minor wear, overall in good conditionMinor signs of wear, overall in good conditionTotal gross weight approx. 32g
AN ENAMEL AND DIAMOND BANGLE BRACELET, DESIGNED BY JEAN SCHLUMBERGER FOR TIFFANY & COThe hinged bangle with applied black paillonné enamel, highlighted with collet-set brilliant-cut diamonds on fluted gold links, mounted in 18K gold, diamonds approximately 5.00cts total, signed Tiffany & Co, Schlumberger, France, French assay mark, with maker's case, inner diameter 5.9cm, inner length approximately 17cmJean Schlumberger (1907-1987) began his career in Paris in the 1930s as a designer of costume jewellery for the renowned couturier Elsa Schiaparelli and by the end of the decade he was creating fine jewellery for a discerning clientèle. In 1939 he joined forces with Nicholas Bongard and together they opened a jewellery shop at 745 Fifth Avenue. From plummy amethysts to bursting bright turquoise, Schlumberger looked to nature for inspiration, combining coloured gems with diamonds and yellow gold to create a riot of hue and light.Tiffany & Co., under the direction of Walter Hoving, recruited Schlumberger in 1955 with hopes to breathe new life into the company and create a new look. Schlumberger was one of only four jewellers that Tiffany has allowed to sign their work and it was his playful imagination that mounted a jewelled bird on top of the famous Tiffany Yellow Diamond.In many ways a man ahead of the crowd, Schlumberger was the first jewellery designers to be awarded the prestigious ‘Coty American Fashion Critics’ Award in 1958.“Schlumberger brings to his art classic design principles of the Renaissance,” reported The Blue Book of 1986. Diana Vreeland, the respected editor of Vogue, wrote that Schlumberger appreciated “the miracle of jewels, which for him are the ways and means to the realisation of his dreams”.Created in his studio on the mezzanine level of Tiffany’s Fifth Avenue flagship store, his designs became de rigueur for fashionable women of the time including Diana Vreeland, Babe Paley, Elizabeth Taylor, and Audrey Hepburn.Perhaps most famous of all his designs were his pailloné enamel bracelets, which were to become dubbed ‘Jackie Bracelets’ due to First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy Bouvier’s fondness for the pieces, of which she owned several. The shimmering colours of the bracelet were achieved through an unusual technique wherein translucent enamel and foil were layered on top of another. One of Schlumberger’s most enduring designs, this bracelet can still be found in Tiffany’s contemporary collections and are still admired and sought after. Of these bracelets, Diana Vreeland wrote “His enamel is perfection…He likes to stab enamel with nails of gold, as if to hold it from flying back to the world of nature from which he’s taken its colours”.Schlumberger retired in the late 1970s and died in 1987, but more than a hundred of his designs continue to be made by Tiffany artisans. In 1995, he became only the third ever jewellery designer to be honoured with a retrospective on his work titled ‘Un Diamant dans la Ville’ in the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris, who still house many of his original design sketches.Schlumberger pieces have not only held their value at auction but continue to increase.Condition Report: Enamel: no damage observedDiamonds: bright and well matchedSignature located inside braceletEagle's head for French 18K gold located on tongue of claspNormal signs of wear, overall in good conditionWith security barTotal gross weight approx. 128.80g
AN ENAMEL AND DIAMOND CROSS PENDANT ON CHAINThe Latin cross set with old cushion and brilliant-cut diamonds within a black enamel frame with beading detailing, the bale with foliate decorations suspending from a fine trace-link chain, mounted in gold (chain in 18K gold), diamonds approximately 2.20cts total, pendant length 4.3cm, chain length 42.5cmCondition Report: Diamonds: approx. 2.20cts total, estimated colour I/J, estimated clarity SINormal signs of wear, overall in good conditionTotal gross weight approx. 10.30g
A GEM-SET AND ENAMEL DRESS RINGOf domed design, set with brilliant-cut diamonds and circular-cut emeralds within frosty rock crystal and blue enamel frame, to a plain gold hoop with flat bottom, mounted in 18K gold, maker's mark 'k', ring size M½Condition Report: Rock crystal: minor wear, in good conditionEmeralds: Refractive index tested, difficult to get an RI - managed to get an 1.58 after a few attempts, of bluish-green hue, very good saturation, well matched in colourDiamonds: bright and well matchedThe hoop was bought with flat bottom - a design to avoid the ring to turn.Stamped 750 for 18K goldNormal signs of wear, overall in good condition
A DIAMOND AND ENAMEL BANGLEThe hinged bangle, designed as two opposite lion heads accented with single-cut diamonds and black enamel for eyes between reeded shoulders with further similarly-cut diamonds, mounted in 18K gold, maker's marks 'Sté J.P.B', French assay marks, inner diameter 5.8cm, inner length approximately 17cmCondition Report: Diamonds: bright and well matchedEyes: black enamel in good conditionMaker's mark 'Sté J.P.B' in horizontal lozenge on various side locations of the bangleEagle's head mark for French 18K gold located on tongue of claspNormal signs of wear, overall in good conditionTotal gross weight approx. 33.7g
A SAPPHIRE AND ENAMEL NOVELTY BROOCHModelled as a frog, the body decorated with green enamel and red enamel spots, the eyes embellished with circular cabochon sapphires, the legs in polished gold, mounted in 18K gold, Italian assay mark, length 2.6cmCondition Report: Sapphires: of blue hue, dark tone, both well matched in colourEnamel: overall in good conditionItalian mark: 2721ALMinor signs of wear, overall in good conditionTotal gross weight approx. 10g
AN ENAMEL AND DIAMOND NOVELTY BROOCH, CIRCA 1970Designed as a tiger's head, the openwork head with chevron engravings throughout accented with black enamel spots, further enamel eyes, tongue and teeth, the whiskers embellished with single-cut diamonds, accented with black enamel spots, mounted in 18K gold, length 5.5cmCondition Report: Some minor enamel discrepancy on the noseNormal signs of wear, overall in good conditionStamped on the reverse 750 for 18K goldTotal gross weight approx. 54g
A DIAMOND NECKLACE, BY GIO CAROLIComposed of openwork concave discs, the frontispiece embellished with pavé-set brilliant-cut similar plaques, mounted in 18K gold, diamonds approximately 4.00cts total, signed Gio Caroli, Italian assay mark, length 41.5cmThe brainchild of a marketing and advertising studio owner and a scion of a legendary jewellery house, Giò Caroli was founded in Valenza in 1970 by Carlo Ciarli and Giovanni Illario. The mission of the brand was to introduce fresher, more lively jewellery to the market that was both sturdy yet stylish to allow for everyday wear.Their designs focused heavily on the layering and repetition of geometric shapes, such semi-circles, circles and rectangles, creating clean lines that spoke to the inherent modernity of the brand. Burnished steel appeared alongside gold, a move that leant the pieces durability but also spoke to the economic crisis facing Italy in 1970s which led to the past trend of flashy jewellery and ornamentation lapse in favour of more industrial designs. Yet far from pieces of only a certain era, the jewellery of Giò Caroli was in many ways ahead of its time, so much so in fact that between 1974-75, the brand began to introduce smaller, more conventional jewellery designs to their collections to appeal to the younger generation of the era. Although burnished steel and gold were still de rigueur, enamel and semi-precious stones were added to switch things up and create a more diverse look.Giò Caroli was sold in 1983 to an Anglo-Arab group based in Milan, but production for the brand continued until the mid-1990s.The works of Giò Caroli endure because Ciarli and Giovanni could sense the changing times they lived in and appreciated the need to create jewellery that was more affordable and appealing to younger generations. This insight freed their jewellery from dating in style and their works remain ever contemporary as a result.Condition Report: Diamonds: approx. 4.00cts total, unable to assess colour due to yellow mount, estimated clarity VSNormal signs of wear, overall in good conditionTotal gross weight approx. 71g
A LATE 19TH CENTURY BUMBLEBEE BROOCH, CIRCA 1880The thorax formed as a cabochon tiger's eye, the abdomen set with rose-cut diamonds and black enamel stripes, the wings and antennae with similarly-cut diamonds and the eyes with cabochon red garnets (or rubies), mounted in silver and gold, French assay marks, numbered, detachable brooch fitting, length 3.8cmCondition Report: Diamonds bright and well matchedEnamel and tiger's eye: in good conditionMinor signs of wear, overall in good conditionFrench assay marks: eagle's head located on the detachable brooch fitting and the reverse of the bee - no marks for silver was found - numbered 1672Total gross weight approx. 18.5g
A DIAMOND AND ENAMEL REGIMENTAL SWEETHEART BROOCH, CIRCA 1900An enamelled crown above intertwined monogram set with single cut diamonds, mounted in gold and palladium, length 2.7cm Condition Report: Metal unmarked, tested by the jewellery department to be gold and palladium.Total gross weight approx. 4.4g
A RUSSIAN SILVER GILT AND GOLD CIGARETTE BOX, BY THIRD ARTEL, ST PETERSBURG, 1908-1917The rectangular case, with pastel blue guilloché enamel, the hinged cover cast with gold laurel leaves and centred with a silver coat of arms (possibly later addition), to a sapphire cabochon clasp, smaller compartment opening to reveal a match compartment and strike panel, the gilt interior engraved with Cyrillic surnames, struck with marker's mark 3rd Artel and 88. standard (zolotniks) in Cyrillic, length 11.2cm, width 6.5cmThe Kokoshnik mark, a womans head in traditional headdress, the head faces to the right and the Greek letter alpha after 1908, St Petersburg assayer Alexander Romanov (working dates April 1904-1912) or Konstantin Soloviev (working dates 1913-1917).The three columns of surnames listed on the inside of the lid may relate to the individuals who commissioned the piece as a possible retirement gift.The Third St. Petersburg Cooperative, or Artel was a group of about thirty artisans who occasionally carried out work for the House of Faberge. It was active between the years 1908-1917, producing a range of decorative items such as guilloché enamel objects, miniature Easter eggs; card and cigarette cases in varying shades of pastel and opalescent white. The Artel also created gold chased objects designed using the technique en quatre-couleurs which solder multiple colours in layers. It is possible that the present example was retailed by the House of Fabergé.Located at 48 Ekaterininskii canal, the Third St Petersburg Artel also occasionally did work for the Imperial Family. In 1915, its head was Vasilii Nikolaevich Ivanov.Condition Report: Some minor enamel damage visible with naked eye, located on the lower mount of the box otherwise overall in good conditionPlease contact the jewellery department, should you wish to receive the names inscribed inside the box (or view on our website)Total gross weight approx. 233.20g
A GEM-SET AND ENAMEL NOVELTY BROOCH, BY FRASCAROLO, CIRCA 1965The whimsical duck, with textured gold body and wings, oval-shaped ruby eye accented with brilliant-cut diamond eyebrows, embellished with orange enamel beak, black enamel feet and yellow enamel belly, mounted in 18K gold, with maker's mark 'FC' for Frascarolo, length 6.8cmPierino ‘Rino’ Frascarolo was born in Milan in 1928. He began his jewellery career as an apprentice with the Fratelli Lunati company, before going on to find his own firm with his partner, Aldo Lenti. In 1948 he moved his factory to Valenza in Corso Matteotti. It was here that Frascarolo began to design and craft his signature enamel and gold animal creations, the ‘Bestiario’, for which he would become best known.Frascarolo's animal jewels were produced throughout the 1960s and proved so popular that he was unofficially dubbed the ‘David Webb of Italy’. Admirers included HRH The Princess Margaret who owned a tiger bangle and ring by him. It was during this time that the maison of Frascarolo was at its height and his exquisite creations attracted clientele from all over Europe and beyond, who were enchanted by his lively and colourful portrayal of animals in the form of wearable pieces.The manufacture of these pieces was not an easy feat, and their huge popularity is a credit to Frascarolo’s skill as a craftsman. He used casting techniques and machinery that was hugely advanced for the time and employed up to fifty craftsmen at once. Frascarolo and his partner Lenti went their separate ways and the former then established his own brand, Frascarolo & Co., in New York City. Through this venture, Frascarolo brought the work of Italian jewellery masters to new heights of international renown.Pierino Frascarolo died in Valenza in 1976 at just forty-eight years old, whilst his jewellery business was at its peak. Following Pierino’s untimely death, Frascarolo & Co closed its business activities the same year, but due to their collectible nature, his pieces remain in very high demand.Condition Report: Minor signs of wear, overall in good conditionTotal gross weight approx. 32.60g
A GEM-SET AND ENAMEL BRACELET, BY FRASCAROLO, CIRCA 1965Designed as a horse, applied with variously coloured enamel and ruby eyes, the muzzle and tail set with single-cut diamonds, mounted in 18K gold, with maker's mark for Frascarolo, Italian assay mark, inner diameter 5.4cmPierino ‘Rino’ Frascarolo was born in Milan in 1928. He began his jewellery career as an apprentice with the Fratelli Lunati company, before going on to find his own firm with his partner, Aldo Lenti. In 1948 he moved his factory to Valenza in Corso Matteotti. It was here that Frascarolo began to design and craft his signature enamel and gold animal creations, the ‘Bestiario’, for which he would become best known.Frascarolo's animal jewels were produced throughout the 1960s and proved so popular that he was unofficially dubbed the ‘David Webb of Italy’. Admirers included HRH The Princess Margaret who owned a tiger bangle and ring by him. It was during this time that the maison of Frascarolo was at its height and his exquisite creations attracted clientele from all over Europe and beyond, who were enchanted by his lively and colourful portrayal of animals in the form of wearable pieces.The manufacture of these pieces was not an easy feat, and their huge popularity is a credit to Frascarolo’s skill as a craftsman. He used casting techniques and machinery that was hugely advanced for the time and employed up to fifty craftsmen at once. Frascarolo and his partner Lenti went their separate ways and the former then established his own brand, Frascarolo & Co., in New York City. Through this venture, Frascarolo brought the work of Italian jewellery masters to new heights of international renown.Pierino Frascarolo died in Valenza in 1976 at just forty-eight years old, whilst his jewellery business was at its peak. Following Pierino’s untimely death, Frascarolo & Co closed its business activities the same year, but due to their collectible nature, his pieces remain in very high demand.Condition Report: Enamel: some normal wear, overall in good conditionSecurity clasp: does not click properly - advisable to have this tightenedNormal signs of wear, overall in good conditionTotal gross weight approx. 142g
From the private collection of a continental ladyAN ENAMEL AND GEM-SET NOVELTY BROOCH, BY FRASCAROLO, CIRCA 1970Designed as a whimsical basset hound with blue enamel body to onyx nose, green agate for eyes and single-cut diamond snout et eyebrows, mounted in 18K gold, maker's mark 'FC' (near indistinct) for Frascarolo, French assay mark, length 4.3cmPierino ‘Rino’ Frascarolo was born in Milan in 1928. He began his jewellery career as an apprentice with the Fratelli Lunati company, before going on to find his own firm with his partner, Aldo Lenti. In 1948 he moved his factory to Valenza in Corso Matteotti. It was here that Frascarolo began to design and craft his signature enamel and gold animal creations, the ‘Bestiario’, for which he would become best known.Frascarolo's animal jewels were produced throughout the 1960s and proved so popular that he was unofficially dubbed the ‘David Webb of Italy’. Admirers included HRH The Princess Margaret who owned a tiger bangle and ring by him. It was during this time that the maison of Frascarolo was at its height and his exquisite creations attracted clientele from all over Europe and beyond, who were enchanted by his lively and colourful portrayal of animals in the form of wearable pieces.The manufacture of these pieces was not an easy feat, and their huge popularity is a credit to Frascarolo’s skill as a craftsman. He used casting techniques and machinery that was hugely advanced for the time and employed up to fifty craftsmen at once. Frascarolo and his partner Lenti went their separate ways and the former then established his own brand, Frascarolo & Co., in New York City. Through this venture, Frascarolo brought the work of Italian jewellery masters to new heights of international renown.Pierino Frascarolo died in Valenza in 1976 at just forty-eight years old, whilst his jewellery business was at its peak. Following Pierino’s untimely death, Frascarolo & Co closed its business activities the same year, but due to their collectible nature, his pieces remain in very high demand.Condition Report: Enamel: some enamel missing near tummy of the dog, ears and near the tail (contact jewellery dpt for additional images)Diamonds: bright and well matchedMaker's Mark: visible when tilting with 10x magnification and bright light source - due to repolishing - on regular horizontal plaquette on the reverseOwl for 18K gold located on the reverse of a pawSome signs of wear but considered overall in good condition given the ageTotal gross weight approx. 24.30g
From the private collection of a continental ladyAN ENAMEL, EMERALD AND DIAMOND LION RING, BY FRASCAROLO, CIRCA 1965Decorated with red and black enamel, single-cut diamonds and circular-cut emerald for eyes, mounted in 18K gold, maker's mark 'FC' for Frascarolo, ring size I¾Pierino ‘Rino’ Frascarolo was born in Milan in 1928. He began his jewellery career as an apprentice with the Fratelli Lunati company, before going on to find his own firm with his partner, Aldo Lenti. In 1948 he moved his factory to Valenza in Corso Matteotti. It was here that Frascarolo began to design and craft his signature enamel and gold animal creations, the ‘Bestiario’, for which he would become best known.Frascarolo's animal jewels were produced throughout the 1960s and proved so popular that he was unofficially dubbed the ‘David Webb of Italy’. Admirers included HRH The Princess Margaret who owned a tiger bangle and ring by him. It was during this time that the maison of Frascarolo was at its height and his exquisite creations attracted clientele from all over Europe and beyond, who were enchanted by his lively and colourful portrayal of animals in the form of wearable pieces.The manufacture of these pieces was not an easy feat, and their huge popularity is a credit to Frascarolo’s skill as a craftsman. He used casting techniques and machinery that was hugely advanced for the time and employed up to fifty craftsmen at once. Frascarolo and his partner Lenti went their separate ways and the former then established his own brand, Frascarolo & Co., in New York City. Through this venture, Frascarolo brought the work of Italian jewellery masters to new heights of international renown.Pierino Frascarolo died in Valenza in 1976 at just forty-eight years old, whilst his jewellery business was at its peak. Following Pierino’s untimely death, Frascarolo & Co closed its business activities the same year, but due to their collectible nature, his pieces remain in very high demand. Condition Report: Red enamel: some, minor enamel discrepancy located near the nose (please ask the department for additional images)Diamonds: bright and well matchedMaker's mark FC + made in Italy inside hoopNormal signs of wear, overall in good conditionTotal gross weight approx. 21.9gSome minor enamel damage on nose.
From the private collection of a continental ladyAN ENAMEL, RUBY AND DIAMOND NOVELTY BROOCH BY CARLO ILLARIO, CIRCA 1960Designed as a flying toucan bird embellished throughout with red, orange and brown polychrome enamel, the wing pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds and a circular-cut ruby cabochon for the eye, within a polished gold frame throughout, in 18K gold, near indistinct Italian assay mark, width 7.3cmIllario’s workshop was able to confirm that this brooch was from their workshop, dating between 1960-1965. They have provided a photo of its mould.Brothers Carlo, Vincenzo and Luigi Illario were a family of goldsmiths from Valenza. They established a jewellery firm in 1920, with each brother taking on their own position. Carlo, who was trained in Paris, headed the production, Vincenzo was a stone setter who also selected the precious gems, and Luigi was head of administration.The brothers worked under their own name, as well as for bigger firms, and were involved with several different jewellery companies. Some of the most renowned goldsmiths in Valenza practised in their workshop, guaranteeing that each product was crafted with exceptional quality.The company brand from 1935 had been 26AL and the business name was under Carlo Illario e Filli. Traditionally, ownership was handed down from father to son and, in 1953, even Luigi's sons, Giovanni and Vittorio, became a part of the family business. From the end of the 1900s, Vittorio and his sons, Pier Luigi and Edoardo, carried on as owners of the company with the 'Illario 1920' logo.In 1996, Giovanni Illario, along with his sons Carlo and Gian Luca, agreed with Vittorio and his sons to set up a new company that would allow them to be more active in the foreign market. This led to a split in Societa Carlo Illario and to the creation of the new Societa Carlo Luca della Quercia which pursues the traditions and spirit of the original company.Their skilled craftsmanship, reputation of excellence and use of innovative goldsmith techniques caught the attention of well-established retailers. Throughout the 20th century, Casa Illario created unique pieces of haute joaillerie for the most famous Italian maisons: Bvlgari, Cusi, Faraone, Fasano, Fecarotta, Settepassi, Ventrella and others. The company's partnership with Bvlgariwas particularly long standing, running from the 1950s through until the 1970s.In this time, Illario made many pieces for Bvlgari, including the now iconic Serpenti watch bracelet. Elizabeth Taylor was a consistent patron, whose personal style and love of dramatic jewels found its home in Illario's creations.Alongside manufacturing for other brands, Illario produced a vibrant assortment of jewellery under their own name. They were known for their fine gemstones and unusual materials, such as polychrome enamel, tortoiseshell and mother of pearl. Striving to stand out, Illario used new techniques in its pieces, such as black rhodium plating to create a contrasted look. The quality of the craftsmanship is clear in all jewels that bear the Illario name, making them highly desirable.Condition Report: The tip of one wing shows some minor enamel deficiency - otherwise normal wear, overall in good conditionDiamonds: bright and well matchedStamped 750 for 18K gold on the reversePartially rubbed Italian assay markIllario’s workshop was able to confirm that this brooch was from their workshop, dating between 1960-1965. They have provided a photo of its mould.Normal signs of wear, overall in good conditionTotal gross weight approx. 25.6gIllario confirmed that the brooch is by their workshop, confirmed date and shared a picture of the mould.
From the private collection of a continental ladyAN ENAMEL PENDANT, BY CARLO ILLARIO FOR FASANOThe white oval plaque with enamel baronial family coat of arms depicting three bull’s heads on a red shield crowned by a coronet and knights helmet, the textured and foliate gold frame with similar bale, mounted in 18K gold, signed Fasano, Italian registry mark ‘26AL’ for Carlo Illario,, length (including bale): 7.2cm, width 4.8cmIllario's workshop was able to confirm that this ring was a unique piece made in the 1970s for Fasano.Born to a family of cotton manufacturers in Chieri in 1900, Mario Fasano’s undoubted eye for beauty would lead to him opening his first jewellery business, ‘Gioielleria Fasano’, in Turin in 1928. Throughout his work, Fasano adhered to the traditional practices of Parisian jewellers, and, while styles changed, the craftmanship that lay at the heart of their work was honoured by him throughout his life. He married Stella Piovano in 1932 and she was to be his life-long partner in every sense of the term. Together in 1935 they opened their first store in Piazza Castello, the heart of Turin’s lively social scene.As the white gems and platinum of the 1930s gave way to the bold colours and yellow gold of the 1940s and 50s, Fasano’s signature pheasant or ‘Fagiona’ brooch, the emblem of his maison, became a recognisable staple in the world of fine Italian jewellery. As the 50s progressed, Fasano’s and Stella’s attention moved more towards the selection of precious and unusual stones, favouring cabochon cuts and those less traditional cuts. When their son Dario Fasano joined the family business in the 1960s, the older generation drew on his experiences studying abroad to bring a fresher spin on their materials and techniques, such as lava stone and gold/bronze combinations.Fasano Jewellers closed operations in 2013, but their pieces still embody some of the best in mid-century jewellery.Condition Report: Minor signs of wearSignature and maker's mark located on loopMinor signs of wear, overall in good conditionTotal gross weight approx. 35.4g
From the private collection of a continental ladyA RUBY AND DIAMOND DRESS RING, BY CARLO ILLARIOThe central cushion-shaped ruby within a calibré-cut ruby surround and between baguette and tapered baguette-cut diamond shoulders with gold reeded detailing, mounted in 18K gold, diamonds approximately 0.50ct total, Italian registry mark '26AL' for Carlo Illario, ring size M½Brothers Carlo, Vincenzo and Luigi Illario were a family of goldsmiths from Valenza. They established a jewellery firm in 1920, with each brother taking on their own position. Carlo, who was trained in Paris, headed the production, Vincenzo was a stone setter who also selected the precious gems, and Luigi was head of administration.The brothers worked under their own name, as well as for bigger firms, and were involved with several different jewellery companies. Some of the most renowned goldsmiths in Valenza practised in their workshop, guaranteeing that each product was crafted with exceptional quality.The company brand from 1935 had been 26AL and the business name was under Carlo Illario e Filli. Traditionally, ownership was handed down from father to son and, in 1953, even Luigi's sons, Giovanni and Vittorio, became a part of the family business. From the end of the 1900s, Vittorio and his sons, Pier Luigi and Edoardo, carried on as owners of the company with the 'Illario 1920' logo.In 1996, Giovanni Illario, along with his sons Carlo and Gian Luca, agreed with Vittorio and his sons to set up a new company that would allow them to be more active in the foreign market. This led to a split in Societa Carlo Illario and to the creation of the new Societa Carlo Luca della Quercia which pursues the traditions and spirit of the original company.Their skilled craftsmanship, reputation of excellence and use of innovative goldsmith techniques caught the attention of well-established retailers. Throughout the 20th century, Casa Illario created unique pieces of haute joaillerie for the most famous Italian maisons: Bvlgari, Cusi, Faraone, Fasano, Fecarotta, Settepassi, Ventrella and others. The company's partnership with Bvlgariwas particularly long standing, running from the 1950s through until the 1970s.In this time, Illario made many pieces for Bvlgari, including the now iconic Serpenti watch bracelet. Elizabeth Taylor was a consistent patron, whose personal style and love of dramatic jewels found its home in Illario's creations.Alongside manufacturing for other brands, Illario produced a vibrant assortment of jewellery under their own name. They were known for their fine gemstones and unusual materials, such as polychrome enamel, tortoiseshell and mother of pearl. Striving to stand out, Illario used new techniques in its pieces, such as black rhodium plating to create a contrasted look. The quality of the craftsmanship is clear in all jewels that bear the Illario name, making them highly desirable.Condition Report: Ruby: of purplish-red hue, medium to dark tone, good transparencyCalibré-cut rubies: of medium to dark tone, overall well matched in colourDiamonds: unable to assess colour due to yellow mount, estimated clarity VSNormal signs of wear, overall in good conditionTotal gross weight approx. 14.2g
A yellow metal, enamel, turquoise and diamond heart shaped locket, having a centre Old European cut diamond within a border of eight 1.6mm turquoise cabochons, mounted on a blue guilloche enamel heart with white border, and suspended below a blue enamel bow with a 2.9mm turquoise cabochon, diamond diameter approx 1.85mm, weight estimated as 0.02 carats, pendant dimensions 20 x 30mm, gross weight 5.8g, not hallmarked but tested as 9ctSeveral turquoise are chipped.Enamel is in good condition aside from one small chip to the ribbon and some surface scratches.
A late Victorian 15ct yellow gold memorial ring, comprising a centre Old European cut diamond with a 2mm half pearl to either side, with black enamel inlay and engraved detail, diamond diameter approx 2.4mm, weight estimated as 0.05 carats, size N, gross weight 2.7g, hallmarked 15ct, Chester 1892Enamel is worn.
A selection of 9ct yellow gold Masonic jewellery, to include a rectangular signet ring with square and compass engraving, head dimensions 12 x 10mm, size T, gross weight 3.9g, hallmarked 9ct, London 1955, sponsor Lawson Ward & Gammage; a rectangular signet ring with embossed square and compass and masonic symbols on shoulders, head dimensions 12.4 x 10mm, size approx S (misshapen), gross weight 4.7g, hallmarked 9ct, Birmingham 2001, sponsor KJ; an oval signet ring with square and compass engraved in blue enamel inlay, head dimensions 14 x 11.5mm, size R, gross weight 7.5g, hallmarked 9ct, Birmingham 1986, sponsor JHW; a stamped 10k yellow metal oval signet ring with embossed square and compass and letter G in blue enamel surround (enamel chipped), head dimensions 18.5 x 13mm, size W, gross weight 10.6g, tested as 9ct; a fob seal with 14.5mm round carnelian and gold square and compass over the top and engraved three-dimensional masonic tools above, length 35mm, gross weight 9.4g, hallmarked 9ct, Birmingham, sponsor LJ; and a circular openwork pendant, with engraved square and compass and letter G, dia.24mm, gross weight 2.5g, hallmarked 9ct, Birmingham 1908, sponsor WOD (6)
A late 19th century Indian Moghul yellow metal, diamond and enamelled hinged bangle, having concealed hinge at 9 o'clock, with screw-down fastening, the bangle fashioned as two exotic birds, their long tail feathers enamelled in bright shades of green, red and blue, with yellow metal inlays as flowers and foliage, the flower heads and leaves each set with small rough cut diamonds, the birds with diamond set eyes and diamond set bands, unmarked but tests as approx 22ct (bangle is filled and not solid), 74.2g, gross dia.74mm, inner dia. 55mmAppears to be resin filled.Enamel worn and chipped in places.One small diamond missing.Bangle strong, hinge and catch both good.Impossible to give carat weight as the diamonds are only slivers and are inlaid, we would guess less than 0.25 cts.
Robert Walker of London - a George III silver pair cased gent's open faced pocket watch, having convex glass, white enamel Arabic dial, and verge fusee movement (lacking chain), signed to the backplate and numbered 63007, cases assayed London 1792, outer case dia.52mm, the whole housed in a silver mounted leather travel case, case maker Henry Williamson, Birmingham 1901, h.8.5cmNot currently running.Only one hand present, which is loose.Dial is loose.Inner case badly dented.
An early 20th century yellow metal guilloche enamel and diamond set pendant brooch, of circular form, having a green ground with an applied flower set with twelve small rough cut diamonds, the whole with twelve applied claw set rough cuts to the rim, 8.8g, unmarked but tests as approx 15ct, with hinged pendant bale, dia.28mm
A continental lady's 14ct gold full hunter pocket watch, the engine turned covers with leaf engraved and enamelled decoration, opening to reveal unsigned white enamel Roman dial, unsigned keyless movement, gold inner back cover, early 20th century, gross weight 27.5g, dia.33mm, housed in a probably original fitted leather case
Perret, Paris. A painted polychrome enamel key wind open face pocket watchDate: Circa 1815Movement: Gilt full plate fusee verge, pierced and engraved balance bridge, silver regulationDial: Maroon enamel, black Roman numeral hour markers to white surround, black outer minute divisions, enamel decoration to centre depicting a boating scene, winding aperture at 2, gilt Breguet style hands (AF)Case: White enamel with polychrome floral decoration, painted enamel scene of cupid with muses to outside back, lake and castle scene to inside, glass held by fluted bezelSigned: MovementSize: 41mmFor further information on this lot please visit Bonhams.com
Ranna, Vienna. An unusual gilt and enamel decorated key wind concealed watch in the form of a lyreDate: Circa 1800Movement: Gilt full plate fusee verge, pierced and engraved balance bridge, silver regulationDial: White, black Roman numerals, black outer minute track, winding aperture at 2Case: Form of a lyre, hinged, front showing enamel decoration featuring flora and musical score, black enamel and seed pearl decoration to sides, red enamel and seed pearl decoration to sound board with aperture to view movementSigned: MovementSize: 29mm x 47mmFor further information on this lot please visit Bonhams.com
Alain Silberstein. An unusual Limited Edition automatic stainless steel bracelet watchModel: Cyclope, No.429/500Date: Circa 1990Movement: Jewelled automaticDial: White, black outer minute markers with red quarters, central disc with red oval revealing displaying hours, fluorescent yellow serpentine seconds hand Case: Polished round, screw down exhibition back, shaped crown with cream enamelStrap/Bracelet: Fitted brushed and polished brick linkBuckle/Clasp: Signed folding claspSigned: Case, dial & movementSize: 38mmFor further information on this lot please visit Bonhams.com
A continental gold and enamel key wind concealed watch in the form of a mandolinDate: Circa 1800Movement: Gilt full plate fusee verge, pierced and engraved balance bridge, silver regulationDial: White, black Arabic numerals, black outer minute divisions with Arabic numeral 15 minute markers, winding aperture at 2, blued steel handsCase: Continental gold in the form of a mandolin, engraved and decorated with red, green and blue enamel to the body, green and blue enamel decoration to sound board, blue and black enamel striped neck, black and blue head, No.104Size: 24mm x 55mmFor further information on this lot please visit Bonhams.com
A continental gold keyless wind concealed watch in the form of a lute with enamel decorationDate: Circa 1800 and laterMovement: Later Swiss lever, cut and compensated bi-metallic balanceDial: White black Arabic numerals with red 12, gilt dot outer minute markers, subsidiary seconds at 6, blued steel hand (AF)Case: Continental gold in the form of a lute, engraved and decorated with red and white enamel to the body, red and white enamel decoration to sound board, black enamel striped neck, blue head Size: 30mm x 62mmFor further information on this lot please visit Bonhams.com
Harry Emanuel, Brook Street & Hannover Square. A gilt metal and blue enamelled key wind concealed watch in the form of a leafDate: Circa 1865Movement: Gilt finish, cylinder escapement, plain 3-arm balanceDial: White, black Roman numerals, black outer minute track, blued steel Breguet style handsCase: Leaf form gilt, blue enamel decoration, diamond decoration to back depicting flora Signed: CuvetteSize: 32mm x 35mm Accompaniments: Gilt and enamel chain, keyFor further information on this lot please visit Bonhams.com
A gilt and enamel key wind concealed watch in the form of a basketDate: Circa 1830Movement: Gilt full plate fusee verge, pierced and engraved balance bridge, silver regulationDial: Concealed white, black Arabic numerals, black outer minute divisions with Arabic quarters, winding aperture at 2, gilt Breguet style handCase: Enamel decorated basket form, floral decoration to top with fauna decoration to sides, two small 'handles', No.1730Size: 30mm x 24mmFor further information on this lot please visit Bonhams.com
Julien Le Roy, Paris. An unusual gilt and enamel key wind concealed watch in the form of a celloDate: Circa 1890Movement: Gilt full plate fusée verge, pierced and engraved balance bridge, silver regulationDial: White, black Roman numerals, black outer minute track with Arabic 5 minute markers, winding aperture at 3, blued steel spade handsCase: Gilt in the form of a violin, hinged back, enamel decoration to bodySigned: Movement, case stamped JM possibly for Josef MikalaschekSize: 29mm x 95mmFootnotes:The current lot was owned by the vendor's grandmother (sister of eminent Marxist philosopher György Lukács) who was a well known cellist.For further information on this lot please visit Bonhams.com
G.S Ferdinand Leicht, in Wien. A continental gold key wind open face pocket watchDate: Circa 1800Movement: Gilt full plate fusée verge, pierced and engraved balance bridge, silver regulationDial: Gilt guilloché engraved, black Arabic numerals to enamel surround, black outer minute track to enamel surround, blued steel Breguet style handsCase: Textured consular with applied dot decoration throughout, single turquoise stone to backSigned: MovementSize: 37mmFor further information on this lot please visit Bonhams.com
A silver and enamel key wind late 17th Century style oval pocket watchDate: 19th centuryMovement: Finely engraved gilt fusee verge, plain 3-arm balance, pierced and engraved balance bridge, silver regulationDial: Silvered, black Roman numerals to white surround, silvered outer minute divisions, enamel decoration depicting flora, gilt decorative handsCase: Polished oval form, band engraved with flora and enamel decoration, engraved and enamel scene to front depicting Christ on the cross and Christ resurrected on the back Size: 35mm Accompaniments: KeyThis lot is subject to the following lot symbols: ΩΩ VAT on imported items at the prevailing rate on Hammer Price and Buyer's Premium.For further information on this lot please visit Bonhams.com

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