A FINE PAIR OF CULTURED PEARL AND DIAMOND PENDENT EARCLIPS, BY VERDURAEach surmount designed as stylised knots pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds, suspending a detachable cultured pearl drop of white or black tint, each caped with similarly-cut diamonds, mounted in 18K gold and platinum, diamonds approximately 7.50cts total, signed Verdura, with maker's mark for 'Amalphy', French assay marks, stamped 'Made in France', with maker's pouch, length 4.7cm and without pearl 2.3cmBorn in 1899 in Palermo, Italy, to an aristocratic family, Fulco Santostefano della Cerda’s, Duke of Verdura's, earliest beginnings were steeped in the beauty and sumptuousness inherent to both his homeland and social status. A vivacious and imaginative child, Fulco’s later designs would be deeply influenced by the family’s 18th century home, Villa Niscemi, as well as his love of nature and happy childhood days rambling around the vast estate. Inheriting the title of duke at the young age of, it became clear that the family’s financial situation did not reflect its noble status, and Verdura knew he would have to make a career for himself in order to upkeep the extravagant lifestyle to which he was accustomed. Having joined the army in 1916, Verdura would have to abandon a promising military career after sustaining a serious should injury which took months of recuperation to heal from. Luckily, the young duke had a wealth of family connections that placed him at the centre of Europe’s glittering interwar society.While on a visit to Venice in 1927 with his good friends, celebrated composer Cole Porter and his socialite wife Linda, Verdura was introduced to Coco Chanel. The two connected instantly, and shortly thereafter Verdura moved to Paris to work for Chanel as a textile designer. However, the young duke’s flair for jewellery design soon became evident and he began to help Chanel rework pieces from her own personal collection, some of which would be copied to be sold at the iconic 31 Rue Cambon location. Little of Verdura’s early work from this period survives, however by 1930 the design that would solidify his representation as one of the period’s foremost jewellery designers came into being. The Maltese Cross jewels consisted of two mismatched gold crosses set with an array of colourful gems, both Byzantian yet oddly contemporary in look. Verdura’s first Maltese Cross pieces were a pair of brooches which he gifted to the renowned fashion editor Diana Vreeland. Next came a pair of white enamel cuffs for Chanel herself, which she wore constantly. The lack of symmetry, yellow gold and brightly coloured stones were in stark contrast to the clean lines and white gold and platinum favoured by other jewellery designers of the time.In 1934, Verdura left Paris for the United States, where his charm, pedigree and good looks allowed him to easily insert himself into high society. Landing in New York before making his way to California, Verdura would meet Paul Flato, Hollywood’s most prominent jewellery designer, and soon became his Head of Design, his work appearing on the necks, arms, and fingers of era’s most standout starlets. By the late 1930s however, Verdura was ready to strike out on his own. His first solo store was opened at 712 Fifth Avenue on September 1st, 1939, the very day war was declared in Europe. The war denied American jewellery connoisseurs the ability to commission works from the master French and Italian ateliers, but Verdura filled the gap by introducing a uniquely European flair to the American market. He continued to produce commissions for actresses, notably Joan Fontaine, and New York society queens throughout the decade, but a collaboration with surrealist artist Salvador Dalí in 1940 allowed Verdura to explore his love of fine art through the lens of jewellery making. The collection consisted of five miniatures painted by Dalí, set by Verdura with gold and jewels. The pieces were exhibited at both the Julien Levy Gallery and the Museum of Modern Art in New York throughout 1941 and 1942, before being bought into private collections, although some re-merged for the Verdura company’s 75th anniversary exhibition The Power of Style: Verdura at 75 in 2014.Verdura’s success continued throughout the 40s, 50s and 60s. It seems he designed pieces for almost every style icon of the era, from royalty to socialites. Notable pieces include the Indian Feather Tiara created in 1957 for Betsey Cushing Whitney and the Double Crescent bracelet, which first appeared in 1940s and but was revived in popularity when it was worn by Princess Diana in 1997.After decades living in the world of glitter and gold, Verdura retired to London in 1973, passing on the company to his long-time business associate Joseph Alfano. The duke would spend the last few years of life indulging his other creative loves, publishing his childhood memoir The Happy Summer Days in 1976. He died in 1978 and was buried in his beloved hometown of Palermo.The Verdura company, meanwhile, continued to maintain its place in the world of fine jewellery. In 1983 the company was sold to Ward Landrigan, the former Head of Jewellery at Sotheby’s. The sale included the complete Verdura archives, consisting of over 10,000 original drawings and sketches, almost half of which were never realised. Landrigan aimed to re-introduce Verdura’s genius to a new generation and in 2004 was joined in the business by his son, Nico Landrigan, who became the company’s president in 2009. Today, Verdura’s classic collections are still available for purchase, including the Constellation Collection, the Caged Collection, the Byzantium Collection, and the Stardust Collection, each with their own unique backstory that offers insight into the mind of their brilliant creator.Verdura’s jewellery was never produced on a mass scale and his most famous pieces were often commissioned works. This has made the Verdura name all the more collectible for the discerning jewellery lover at auction.Condition Report: Cultured pearls:One black: Very good lustre, with green and pink overtones, minor natural blemishes visible under a bright light sourceOne White: Very good lustre, with green, pink and silver overtones, superficial natural blemishes visible under a bright light sourceDiamonds: approx. 7.50cts total, bright and livelySignature, French assay marks and maker's marks located on the clip fittingsEarclips for non pierced ears, includes rubber bands on the back fittingsEagle's head for French 18K gold and dog's head for French platinumMinor signs of wear, overall in good conditionTotal gross weight approx. 47.40g
