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Click here to subscribeA Chanel couture brown tweed ensemble, Autumn-Winter, 1969, wide label and numbered 37629, woven with ivory mohair scallops, long coat with gilt lion mask buttons, lined and faced in navy silk, chest 97cm, 38in, skirt waist 66cm, 26in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Slight soiling - tweed is generally good condition, both pieces totally re-lined.
A Lucile Ltd ivory satin bridal or debutante gown, 1918, bearing green on ivory woven label 'Lucile Ltd, 37 & 38 West 57th street, New York' also with internal client tag for 'Miss C.Wilkinson, November 10th, 1918', the lightly padded bodice with twisted satin band inset with silver brocade and visible ecru lace camisole, with raised waistline, pleats to the sides of the draped hobble skirt with diagonal opening that reveals the ankles, with swag and floating panel to the back, bust 92cm, 36in CONDITION REPORT: Faint water marks down the front of the skirt. Rouge mark to right waist area. Hem edge is soiled. Inside - the silk camisole has bad perspiration stains and splits within the stains, but the exterior is good. The lace trimming in these areas is also stained and has wear. White silk gussets have been added to the camisole to widen and the grosgrain waistband has been snipped to allow expansion. This could easily be reversed. The corresponding exterior bodice section does not show any changes. The pink silk skirt lining has been crudely cut and the lower section removed.
A Comme des Garçons 'Boxing Ballerina' ensemble, Spring-Summer, 2005, labelled and size S, comprising: neoprene jacket with leather thong, over-stitched, lashed seams, the centre-back panel with basket weave panel; together with a black tulle skirt with white boxer-shorts style ruffled edging; and an ivory calico, tulle and neoprene over-skirt with undulating ruffles and hem (3) CONDITION REPORT: good condition, look unworn
An ivory crêpe georgette and chantilly lace 'poppy' dress, circa 1930, covered with vermicular clear bugle beads, appliquéd with lace poppy motifs, some with large rhinestone centres, criss-cross straps front and back, black tulle hem, bust 92cm, 36in; with a matching scarf (2) CONDITION REPORT: Inner layer of ivory crepe has been added to the upper bodice. Underarm areas are heavily darned and repaired,
An ivory satin spencer, circa 1815-20, adorned with tabs, piping, and domed silver purl wire baubles, fastened by hooks and eyes, bust approx 81cm, 32in CONDITION REPORT: good condition, very faint perspiration stains at underarms (hard to photograph) and 2 small areas of thinning at right underarm, Edwardian embroidered motifs added to cuffs - but these are easily removed. Slight thinning/wear to satin at front waistband closure. Powdered silver wire rosettes are good condition and complete. Interior lining is good but with faint perspiration stains at underarms. No alterations.
A Pierre Balmain couture evening gown, 'Oriane', Autumn-Winter, 1954-55, labelled and numbered 73579, of ivory and ice-blue satin, integral corset, lavishly embroidered by Lesage with gilt metal strip, gold threads, pale turquoise and grey chenille, bugle and pearl beads, small sea-shells and glass droplets, the tight pencil skirt with rear kick pleat, bust 81-86cm, 32-34in, waist 66cm, 26in The Metropolitan Museum has a similar version with brown contrasts, accession no. C.160.30. CONDITION REPORT: Slight underarm staining, slight soiling at front waistline (where a belt would have been) slight soiling/blemishes to bodice and rear skirt - but minor. Generally good condition. Lacking belt, hem may have been raised but if so done by Balmain. Inner corset has been slightly widened at the top closure. Hole in slip below inner closure. Slight soiling to back panels of rayon corset. Centre front seam of corset has been re-sewn. There would have been a blue satin bow prestud fastened to the back which is missing.
A muslin dress with printed calico spencer, French, circa 1800, the simple dress cuffs and hem edged in ivory silk ribbons, narrow bodice drawstring ties to the back; the spencer printed in coral pink on blue, the narrow back with diamond-shaped panel and deep gathers to the inset sleeves (2) CONDITION REPORT: Spencer: good condition, very fresh, no problems. Dress: good condition, a few small pinholes to bodice, ivory satin ribbon edgings are good. Muslin is very light/diaphanous, a few small holes above rear hem, the odd pinhead sized hole but generally good condition. Very fresh and clean appearance.
An Yves Saint Laurent couture ivory silk Saharienne-style trouser suit, circa 1968-70, labelled and numbered 29224, the jacket with patch pockets, gilt metal buttons, top-stitched detailing; the slim-fitting trousers with slight flare at the the hem, bust 81cm, 32in, trouser waist 66cm, 26in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Although the jacket is couture finished, but the trousers have machine locked seams. Pin pricks from a brooch to the jacket lapel. The belt doesn't look original
A Mariano Fortuny ivory silk Delphos gown, 1920-30, un-labelled, with short curving sleeves laced with Murano brown and white glass beads, bust approx 81-106cm, 32-42in, with an associated stencilled linen belt and spare silk laces; together with a sage-green and gold stencilled cotton jacket, 1950s, labelled 'Mariano Fortuny Venise, 509 Madison Ave, New York', bust approx 102cm, 40in (qty) CONDITION REPORT: Ivory Delphos: has several faint light brown stains to rear bodice, rear hem has darned repairs where silk has split and has been backed with silk gauze at this area, well done. One similar repair to right hem. A couple of very small splits to silk at front hem. Laces to sleeves are not original. Jacket: good condition. Has one brown stain to rear of right shoulder, 1cm diam, and two smaller stains on either side. Label has darned repairs and has been covered in silk gauze for conservation, well done. Belt is rubbed and faded.
A Balenciaga couture flecked grey and ivory checked tweed suit, mid 1960s, Eisa labelled, the loose jacket with side slits, pewter glazed buttons, faux pocket flaps and organdy cuffs, below knee skirt, chest 102cm, 40in, waist 61cm, 24in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, looks little worn
A pair of rare Comme des Garçons ivory suede and calico ladies shoes, Spring-Summer, 1983, stamped to the interior 'Tricot Comme des Garçons', with integral calico gaiters and ribbon ties, size 22 1/2 (2) These shoes are featured in 'Asahi Graph' , December 3, 1982, p.15, being worn on the catwalk. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, look unworn. Both shoes with very slight soiling to inside edge and toe area.
A beaded ivory and pink tulle flapper dress, circa 1925, un-labelled, the ground entirely covered with opalescent sequins, the hem and bodice with floral motifs in pink and green sequins against a black beaded background, bust 96cm, 38in CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, very fresh appearance. Beading is good. Silver edging beads have rusted slightly at underarms from perspiration and there are a few missing sequins in this area also, not immediately obvious. Perspiration stains at underarms to interior tulle but not visible to exterior. Area at left underarm has been re-backed with tulle.
A Jean Patou couture pink rose printed faille ensemble, early 1950s, large woven pink on ivory label, numbered 031039, with button fronted bodice, the crystal-pleated skirt with plain panel to the front, with matching belt, bust 92cm, 36in, waist 61cm, 24in (3) CONDITION REPORT: Very fresh appearance, great colour, bodice is good condition, fabric is fresh, skirt has been altered at waist and side seam. Zip needs re-stitching in places. Centre-back lining has been taken in by 4cm. Skirt centre back seam has been taken in also. Faint yellow stain to lining. Lining hem has been raised by 3cm. Goffered flounces to secondary petticoat need re-stitching in places (minor). Leather lining of belt has cracked and to reverse of buckle. Overall - pretty, fresh appearance, great colour and fabric, alterations to skirt waist which has been made smaller.
A Chanel couture brocaded satin cocktail suit, 1957, labelled and numbered 05629, woven with gold foliate scrolls, the sleeveless dress with cross-over panels to bodice, the matching jacket lined in pink silk with gold braid edging, dress bust 92cm, 36in (2) Provenance: Purchased from the estate of the actress Rosalind Russell in the late 1970s. CONDITION REPORT: Jacket - slight fraying to cuff lining, gold braid is tarnished but overall good condition; dress - the bodice side seams have been let out and the hem has been lowered. Stains to ivory silk lining
A Callot Soeurs embroidered ivory satin orientalist dress, circa 1926, un-labelled, embroidered in pale green and primrose floss silks, couched gilt threads, with large palmette to front skirt, spangled with pearlised sequin flowers, satin sash panels tie in a bow to the rear, with trained floating panel below, green chiffon camisole bodice, bust 86cm, 34in CONDITION REPORT: Satin ground has badly perished over the shoulders and underarms, and all around the circumference of the waist above the sash. The front skirt has numerous splits around the embroidered motifs which are not immediately obvious. Good colours, but satin ground is generally fragile. Splits in the green chiffon inner bodice. Poor condition, a good study document.
A Chanel ivory tweed ensemble, probably American Patron Originale, 1966, large label numbered 31303, comprising: jacket with gilt lion mask buttons, matching skirt with navy silk waistband, navy silk short-sleeved blouse and a beret with narrow black on white label, blouse bust 92cm, 36in, skirt waist 71cm, 28in (4) CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, looks little worn
Björk's Iris van Herpen ivory-cream degradé chiffon dress with mechanical wings, worn for the 'Vulnicura' tour, 2015, the front panels with micro-chip controlled 'wings', the skirt held in a gentle drape to the knee, bust 86cm, 34in Björk wore this dress in New York teamed with the lion mask by Maiko Takeda for the 'Vulnicura' tour including Carnegie Hall, Kings Theatre USA, March 2015. CONDITION REPORT: Faint rouge or lipstick stain to front left waist area. mechanism works well, good condition overall
A Charles James for Samuel Winston black velvet and chestnut taffeta cocktail dress, mid 1950s, labelled and also with hand written tape 'Brodericle', the separate velvet bodice with sweetheart neckline, laced thongs at the shoulders; the stiffened skirt embroidered, beaded, sequined and appliquéd with rose trails and bows, bust 81cm, 32in, waist 56cm, 22in (2) In 1955, Samuel Winston went into business with the designer Charles James, to produce a line of his clothes but this arrangement ended badly when James accused the firm of using his designs in their other divisions. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, no problems. Bodice: looks little worn, ivory satin lining has discoloured from ivory to gold, velvet is deep black. Skirt: likewise is good condition, barely visible soil mark to rear hem.
A Chanel couture ivory tweed suit, 1964, broad label and numbered 24873, the jacket with gilt lion mask buttons, the skirt with broad pleats, with matching top-stitched silk blouse, chest 92cm, 36in, waist 76cm, 26in (3) CONDITION REPORT: Skirt in good condition. Jacket good condition, perspiration stains at underarms to lining only. Blouse has faint perspiration stains at underarms.
An ivory silk summer coat made from a Central Asian embroidered suzani, circa 1928, worked in chain stitch with traditional stylised flowerheads, chest 97cm, 38in; together with an ivory silk dress with peasant style embroidery (2) CONDITION REPORT: Large brown stain to front left hem roundel and small brown spot stain to the other side. Dress has perspiration stains at underarms and midriff
An Ossie Clark/Celia Birtwell ivory wool suit, early 1970s, black on white woven label, size 10, comprising: cropped jacket with 'Baroque Bouquet' printed satin lining; matching chiffon blouse and maxi skirt, busts approx 92-96cm, 36-38in (3) CONDITION REPORT: good condition, very fresh, a couple of very faint light brown spots to jacket and skirt
A Chanel couture plum chenille and gold lurex ensemble, Autumn-Winter, 1964, narrow brown on ivory label numbered 20035, the dress with pink-gold degradé crinkled lurex bodice, the skirt and jacket of gold-flecked chenille, similarly lined and with heavy gilt chain, both with lion mask filigree buttons, dress bust 92cm, 36in, waist 74cm, 29in (2) An identical ensemble is part of the collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, accession number C.1.67.23a,b. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, very fresh. Jacket: a few floating threads to lurex lining at cuffs and corner of collar. Dress: a few floating threads to lurex lining at collar.
A lavishly beaded ivory velvet opera coat, 1920s, indistinguishable label, the back with large bird of paradise amid floral trails which continue around the hem, embroidered with seed beads, irridescent sequins and rhinestones, white rabbit fur collar and cuffs and gilt clasp, chest approx 107cm, 42in CONDITION REPORT: Good condition. Beading is wonderful. Label is shattered. A few pin-head sized small brown dots to rear near neck. Fur at cuffs is rubbed and their silk lining is shattering.
A Paquin couture ivory satin 'shawl effect' dress, Spring-Summer, 1928, the dated woven label with Unis France logo numbered 49462, with deep V back, triple strand straps, the cross-over bodice and waistband embroidered with bird of paradise plumes punctuated by steel beads, the skirt covered in fringes, mimicking a shawl wrapped around the hips, bust 92cm, 36in CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, gilt chain-linked bands are good. Slight tarnishing to underside of one cuff. Velvet is generally clean and good. No alterations. Simple piece but good.
A Pierre Cardin black and ivory silk crêpe de chine dress, circa 1970, Paris boutique label, with floor-length slashed gothic sleeves, bust 102cm, 40in CONDITION REPORT: Generally good condition, a few prick marks from a brooch to one shoulder. Would benefit from cleaning - hem and edges of sleeves are slightly soiled. A couple of tiny pinhead sized spots to left shoulder. One small light brown stain to inside of right sleeve. Faint perspiration stains at underarms which are very hard to see. Beautifully made.
A Jeanne Lanvin couture robe de style, 'La Mascotte', Spanish collection, 1925, un-labelled, of ivory crêpe de chine edged in scarlet, with cross-over front panels, with red silk ties to waist, the skirt embroidered with chain stitched roundels in scarlet and ivory, edged in gold thread, the inner hem with stiffened scalloped band to hold the shape, bust approx. 86-92cm, 34-36in CONDITION REPORT: Both of the red armhole bands have been replaced with near matching silk as has the rear scarlet neck band. Ivory silk areas have been replaced over both shoulders. Ivory silk is splitting at rear left shoulder seam and hole in ivory silk. Fine splits are forming in the ivory silk directly below the replaced rear scarlet neck band within a fain stain line. Small split along the vertical seam line at left waist. Faint oval water mark to bodice on front right panel approx 6 by 2cm long. Fine splits forming to cream silk at rear left armhole area. The skirt with numerous fine splits, but particularly on the left and right sides. Centre back with stain and moth hole. Faint watermarks to red hem areas. Two darts have been added to the bodice and the side seams have been re-sewn along same lines as has the waistline. Stains on tip of one waist-tie. Cream silk patch to buckram stiffened inner hem panel. Centre back skirt has 14cm vertical repair in plain silk below waistband.
A Comme des Garçons layered ivory organza and cotton ensemble, Spring-Summer, 1998, labelled and size S, the upper bodice formed from three layers of cotton and upper layer of floral weave organza, cut as one with raw edges, heavy zip fastening to one side and top-stitched fin-like shaping to the other side with single layer cotton skirt below; the apron-like over-skirt of triple sandwiched cotton godets which cascade in flounced ruffles (2) CONDITION REPORT: good - looks unworn
A rare post-war Lanvin couture evening gown, Summer, 1947, large woven label with red date stamp, of black wool crêpe with empire line, lightly boned pale blue sequined ivory rayon bodice, with bow to the back and Watteau-like pleated trained panel, bust 92cm, 36in CONDITION REPORT: Sequins are good, generally intact and appear sparkly. Some sequins have dulled/melted although this is not immediately obvious. Right shoulder strap has a couple of stitches with black thread. Some fading to front of skirt and seam lines/selvedges show where it has been ironed. Horizontal (iron) line across lower left hip, 11cm, and a similar small mark to front bodice. Lower rear skirt has 8cm lighter iron mark and a couple of pinhead sized holes. Interior bodice is very fresh. Very pretty overall.
A fine Pierre Balmain embroidered ivory gazar evening ensemble, Spring-Summer, 1966, with large woven Paris label, no 135248, the streamlined dress and matching coat appliquéd and embroidered with chenille floral motifs and scrolls, dress bust 92cm, 36in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Coat good condition, no problems, slight soiling at hem edge. Dress hem at front is soiled and has droplet stain, very edge of hem circumference is soiled (minor).
Two embroidered satin waistcoats and a tailcoat, circa 1780-90, the waistcoats worked in naturalistic blooms in floss silks, one with lace-effect edges, the other with sequins; and a badly faded but densely embroidered purple coat, average chest size 97cm, 38n (3) Provenance: The actress Greta Morritt, who was a close friend of Sir Henry Irving (1838-1905). It is believed that Irving wore these pieces on stage in the 'Belle's Strategem', when he played the character Joseph Surface in 1881. CONDITION REPORT: · Waistcoat 1 - shoulder panels have been replaced but in the 18th/19th century. Right pocket area is badly faded. Slight damp freckles over the ivory silk front panels generally · Waistcoat 2 - blossom has faded generally, otherwise good condition Tailcoat - very badly faded and repaired, splits at underarms. Poor condition
A gold lamé cocoon-like opera cape, mid 1920s, woven with orientally inspired foliate motifs, lined in gold satin, with Indian filigree metal bell to rear neck, the front sleeve openings adorned with large metal thread tassels; together with an ivory velvet cocktail dress with shirred swag to one hip, c.1922, bust 97cm, 38in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Cape is generally good condition, gold lamé has faded to silver in places, tassels are good. The star motif and belt centre back may be later added. The dress has spot stain near front neck opening, perspiration stains at underarms, gold lining is good - I suspect may have been replaced in the 1930s. Hem isn't well sewn, it has a deep return and may originally have been longer.
A 1920s pale lemon silk velvet coat with ivory silk lining fastened with a single button, to/w a pale lemon silk satin dress with bodice embroidered with metalised thread, to/w two pairs of Middle Eastern children's leather shoes Condition Report Velvet coat - lining coming adrift and altered Dress - possibly made up for fancy dress (vintage material) Shoes - worn commensurate with age
An Edwardian crocheted and net lace bodice trimmed with striped pale mauve/ivory silk, to/w an ivory silk and lace mob hat trimmed with blue silk ribbon, to/w a grey silk georgette shawl with deep fringing, 137 cm x 140 cm (plus 50 cm fringing) (3) Condition Report The mauve/ivory trim to bodice faded Silk mob hat - fragile and lining ripped Shawl - good condition Both jackets undamaged, have deteriorating linings
Two boxes containing a peach crepe 1940s dress, 1960s peach synthetic lace negligee, a blue satin nightgown, a child's ivory silk dress, two emerald green printed voile children's dresses (poss. bridesmaid), to/w a box of table linen to include linen and crocheted tablecloths including new Cypriot tablecloth, crocheted trimming and embroidered panel of Spanish woman
A short sword or dagger in white-metal mounted scabbard; the bone or ivory hilt also white-metal mounted and probably stamped EIII; the blade similarly stamped, overall length 53 cm, probably Central Asian or Cossack Condition Report The damage includes areas of deterioration to the blade, scabbard and hilt.
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