Mallams
Lot 41
An aquamarine fringe necklace by Mrs Newman, circa 1890, designed as a line of graduated oval mixed-cut aquamarines in pinched claw settings, spaced by flowerhead panels, suspending a fringe of similarly set pear-shaped aquamarine drops, on a fancy-link chain with aquamarine single stone clasp, verso signed MRS N, length 37cmProvenance: Christie's South Kensington, February 1995Charlotte Isabella Newman (1836 - 1920) was one of the first female professional goldsmiths and jewellery designers, beginning her career as an assistant to the celebrated London-based jeweller John Brogden in the 1860s. As specialists in the revivalist Archaeological and Renaissance styles, Brogdens exhibited at the Exposition Universelle in Paris in 1867 and 1878, for which Newman received a medaille d'honneur as a collaborative designer.Following Brogden's death in 1884, Newman established her own eponymous jewellery business from premises near Bond Street and then Savile Row in London, where she was known as 'Mrs Philip Newman', retaining some of Brogden's staff. By signing her pieces 'Mrs N', Newman was able to distinguish that her pieces were designed by a woman, at a time when the jewellery industry was heavily male dominated, and quickly generated the interest of art journals and the press. She continued to produce jewellery in the antiquarian style and was particularly skilled in the use of granulation, enamels and coloured gemstones, with references to Arts and Crafts design in her later work. Aquamarines are well matched, of light greenish-blue hues, some stones containing inclusions such as fractures, feathers and linear/spotted minerals that are visible to the unaided eye. Some of the inclusions are surface-reaching and all stones have surface wear commensurate for use, with scuffs, nicks and chips. Largest aquamarine dimensions approximately 13mm length x 9.7mm width x 5mm depth (oval) and 15.5mm length x 7mm width x 4.3mm depth (pear). The settings have wear consistent with use and some of the claw tips have worn thin. The remainder of the necklace panels, links and clasp have light surface wear, scuffs and nicks/chips. The applied signature is clear. Width of fringe and flowerheads section 12.5cm. Metal standard is untested but the necklace is presumed to be gold. Gross weight approximately 18.6gm.
