Elstob Auctioneers
Lot 544
A CORAL, ENAMEL AND DIAMOND BLACKAMOOR BROOCH, BY CARTIER, CIRCA 1935 the black enamelled bust wearing seed pearl earrings, on a reeded gold neck and wearing a cream enamel turban with coral corallium rubrum highlight and rose-cut diamond detail, mounted in 18K gold, signed Cartier Paris, numbered. 3.5cm long, 11.1 grams grossThe house of Cartier was founded in Paris in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier. A family venture soon saw the growth of Cartier and the expansion to London and New York, with subsequent generations taking the helm. Cartier has established itself as one of the world's preeminent crafters of high-end, modern, and vintage jewellery. Its watches have adorned the wrists of celebrities and royalty alike, with King Edward VII of England once referring to Cartier as the jeweller of kings and the king of jewellers. Cartier's extensive collections are known to embody revival, Art Deco, and more contemporary styles, making them a sought-after commodity for generations both past and present. Jeanne Toussaint was made Creative Director for jewellery in 1933 and she continued to work for Cartier until her retirement in 1970. The working relationship between Louis Cartier and Toussaint was very successful, with Cartier imparting his knowledge of gemstones, diamonds, settings and technique, and Toussaint bringing her joie de vivre, relentless creativity and eye for contemporary fashions. By the time she retired from Cartier in 1970, Toussaint had established her legacy as an artistic visionary; always experimenting, exploring and creating jewels for those with a worldly outlook and an eye on the future. Cartier is a notable creator of pieces depicting elaborate Blackamoor heads, which had been introduced by the Venetian form of Nardi. Blackamoor jewellery, also known as Moretti jewellery, was particularly popular during the 17th and 18th centuries and it is believed that it was originally created as amulets to ward off evil, or invasion by the Moors into Italy. Cartier first released their Blackamoor brooches in the early 1930’s. Blackamoor brooches depict black figures within the design, they are typically male with a head covering, usually a turban and covered in rich jewels and gold leaf. Early examples often have European racial features, apart from the colour. They are typically enamelled, carved from ebony or painted black to contrast with the bright colours of the embellishments. Depictions may only represent the head, or head and shoulders, facing the viewer in a symmetrical pose.The brooch on sale is a lovely example of a typical Blackamoor brooch, made of black enamel, detailing a white enamel turban and surrounded by precious gems, including coral, seed pearls and diamond. The head faces the viewer in a symmetrical pose and sits on a yellow gold reeded neck.
