AN ART DECO DIAMOND BRACELET, CHAUMET, CIRCA 1925The openwork articulated band set at the centre with a stylised meander motif highlighted with old European and single-cut diamonds, between similarly-cut diamond borders, with millegrain detailing throughout, mounted in platinum, diamonds approximately 13.00cts total, with maker's mark 'JC' for Joseph Chaumet, French assay mark, with case by 'Armour-Winston Ltd, 43 Burlington Arcade, W1', length 17.4cmBy family repute, the mother of the current owner bought this bracelet in the 1960s on Burlington Arcade. A couple of links (not included) were taken out to shorten the bracelet and fit the owner. Accompanied with an insurance valuation from Humphrey Butler, dated August 13th 2010.Joseph Chaumet: maker's mark registered in 1890 until 1928 - located in the 2nd district of Paris, then place Vendome in the 1st district in 1902.A very similar bracelet was sold at Sotheby's in May 2008 for CHF 37,000.- (lot 68)Business boomed for jewellers during the interwar period. Jewellers, as was also the case with visual artists, interior designers and product designers, were influenced by the new Art Deco architecture and design. Art Deco buildings were often streamlined with minimal decoration, especially compared to the recent Victorian past. Designers and architects used new materials such as chrome, steel, decorative glass and aluminium, to create a forward looking, modern style. Dubbed ‘the vertical style’ in New York, elements included vertical windows, stylised floral patterns, and above all, abstract, geometric motifs. This Art Deco influence on jewellery is made clear by Georges Fouquet in the article La Bijouterie at la Joaillerie Modernes, published in Figaro’s Supplément Artistique on June 13th 1929, where he stated that: “the composition of a piece of jewellery must be really understood and it must be constructed of simple lines, free from all its point of departure it must have a principle of construction in which the harmonious rhythm of lines, masses and colours manifests itself.” During this turbulent but creative period, the firm of Chaumet managed to retain both their pre-war client base and their reputation. At that point in time their longevity already stretched back over a century and a half and their client base had included Emperor Napoleon, Empress Josephine and Queen Victoria. In 1928 at the height of the Art Deco era, Marcel Chaumet took over management of the firm on the death of his father, Joseph Chaumet, for whom the business was eponymously named. Declaring, at his father’s funeral that: “continuing the furrow he ploughed, perpetuating his work in every sphere, such is my goal, to which I will devout all my effort.” Recorded in Chaumet, Parisian Jeweler since 1780, directed by Henri Loyrette. Chaumet fully embraced the Art Deco trend, participating in the ground-breaking Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs, in Paris in 1925. Their jewellery became more geometric in design and used a more eclectic range of gemstones than before, such as rock crystal, onyx, turquoise and red coral. These were often arranged either in monochromatic black and white or a riot of bright colours. If monochromatic, the diamond reigned supreme. Advances in gem-cutting had allowed new, innovative cuts such as the baguette and the calibre-cut and these were often contrasted with onyx or black enamel and set in platinum.At the exposition especially, the rising concept of the freed woman or named ‘garçonne’ in France became so popular and inspired books written about female empowerment, such as in the 1922 novel by Victor Margueritte, La Garçonne. During the war, women had replaced men in the working world as men were called to the front line, and in doing so it became evident that women held a new independence and freedom in society. Fashion designers of the time noticed this and created lines for the contemporary woman which included Coco Chanel’s little black dress. Such popularity of the concept inspired jewellery designed by Chaumet’s innovation and style. Stated in Chaumet, Parisian Jewler since 1780, Vogue even recommended Chaumet for the “chic woman’s wardrobe…jarred and bored by the jangling of many bracelets, one single cuff made for her by Chaumet -a thing of beautiful and intricate design.”The Art Deco period was also an effort to cast aside ideas of the past. Additionally, more exotic influences included Egyptian, Chinese and Japanese, often shown in the use of stylised motifs such as dragons, pagodas and Persian flower motifs. These influences also expressed themselves in the use of jade, coral, enamels, lacquer and pearls. In the 1920’s, Art Deco bracelets were often composed of intricate links set with coloured gemstones in geometric designs and there was a fashion for wearing multiple bracelets, high on the arm. The design of this intricate bracelet is based on the Greek key pattern and was inspired by the architectural motifs of Classical Greece. This pattern that is both interlocking and unbroken, became popular once again in the Art Deco era due to its pleasingly geometric character, and was said to represent both infinity and unity. As the 1930’s approached, larger, pave-set bracelets with outsized links gained in popularity and ‘convertible jewellery’ which could be worn in more than one way, became popular again. Condition Report: Diamonds: approx. 13.00cts total - overall bright and lively - estimated colour H/I, estimated clarity VS-SI (a few I)Partial Maker's mark: JC and star (no crescent visible) located on the tongue of clasp - dog's head for French platinum located on the tongue of claspOne dent visible on the rail track of the braceletClasp: secureNormal signs of wear given the age of the bracelet - overall in good conditionBy family repute, the mother of the current owner bought this bracelet in the 1960s on Burlington Arcade. Two links (not included) were taken out to shorten the bracelet and fit the owner. Accompanied with an insurance valuation from Humphrey Butler, dated August 13th 2010. A very similar bracelet was sold at Sotheby's in May 2008 for CHF 37,000.- (lot 68)Total gross weight approx. 42.9g
