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Lot 180
A Westwood/McLaren Navaho patterned knitted sweater, 'Savages' collection, Spring-Summer, 1982, World's End label, chest 107cm, 42in; together with an apricot muslin shift dress adorned with lilac cotton tufts, chest 112cm, 44in (2) Provenance: Keith at Smile CONDITION REPORT: Pilling to sweater, yellow stain to cuff which may clean out, a few small spot stains on chest, hidden within the pattern. Dress looks unworn
Lot 192
An Ossie Clark printed rayon dress, mid 1970s, un-labelled, with two curved pockets to front skirt, the green and black print with interlocking tulip and striped patterns, plastic marbled buttons, bust 86cm, 34in, waist 76cm, 30in For a labelled example of this print in a different colour-way, see Kerry Taylor Auctions, 8th December 2012, lot 157. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition. Fabric slightly rubbed at underarms, lacking belt. Lacking hook fastening at left cuff (minor). Very small tear at seam corner of neckline, easily repaired.
Lot 193
An Ossie Clark black velvet maxi-dress, 1969-70, labelled and size 12, with rhinestone buttons and top-stitched waistband, bust 97cm, 38in, waist 71cm, 28in CONDITION REPORT: Label is discoloured from wear, left underarm seam has been re-sewn where it pulled away, stain to rear hem and rubbing to velvet edge.
Lot 195
A Gilbert Adrian couture black crepe evening gown, early 1940s, Custom label and client name J.S. Sykes, 426, with military-style beaded emblem to right sleeve; together with five bias cut evening gowns and two purses, 1930s-40s, un-labelled, various sizes (8) CONDITION REPORT: · Adrian: some beads missing to armband, otherwise generally good. Moss crepe slightly faded with age. Centre back skirt seam has pulled away in 3 places and needs re-stitching. · Black silk crepe dress - ribbon straps look like replacements otherwise good condition · Burgundy crepe is good condition and looks little worn .
Lot 198
An Ossie Clark for Radley satin crepe printed blouse, mid 1970s, labelled, together with a Biba satin printed dress; a Valerie Goad star print dress and a Quorum black blouse, all labelled, various sizes (4) CONDITION REPORT: Ossie blouse has perspiration stains at underarms and along edge of collar. All good condition.
Lot 200
A whiteworked muslin dress, circa 1918, densely embroidered with floral motifs and edged in crochet lace, bust approx 92cm, 36in, waist 71cm, 28in CONDITION REPORT: Skirt has been shortened by being raised at waistband. Has been washed and thinned muslin across shoulders has been re-backed, otherwise good.
Lot 201
A Jolly & Son of Bath taffeta and chantilly lace evening gown, circa 1914, labelled, the bodice lace with repeats of a pierrot singing to the moon; together with two others: one of green taffeta, c.1860; the other late 1870s (3) CONDITION REPORT: · Jolly & Son 'Pierrot' lace dress: the first impression is good but the nude chiffon inner sleeves have perished at the underarms. The moire silk underskirt is badly perished. The lace, beadwork, external decorations are good. Black chiffon over sleeves have holes and repair in the shoulder area. Repaired tear in chiffon overskirt 7cm long above front hem. Fair condition · 1860s ball gown - bad underarm stains, stains down skirt, splits and repairs. Poor condition · 1870s brown dress - perspiration stains and repairs at underarms, side seams let out, alterations to rear skirt panels.
Lot 216
A Thea Porter printed muslin 'gipsy' dress, circa 1969, labelled Thea Porter, London, with bold black and white quatrefoil print to the bodice, khaki grosgrain rayon midriff and wire mesh print skirt, edged in velvet ribbon, bust 81cm, 32in, waist 61cm, 24in This piece was included in the major Thea Porter retrospective, 'Bohemian Chic', at the London Fashion & Textile Museum, February-May 2015. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition. Faint watermark to front waist panel. Very faint perspiration stains at underarms.
Lot 222
An Ossie Clark/Celia Birtwell for Radley 'Floating Daisies' red moss crepe dress, mid 1970s, labelled, with broad rear buttoned belt, bust 97cm, 38in CONDITION REPORT: Dress is altered. Ties from front bodice have been removed, hem has been cut and shortened, broad buttoned belt at the back is also an alteration. Dress is clean and fresh in appearance and red is bright and even. Good, clean wearable.
Lot 223
A Thea Porter embroidered white muslin dress, mid 1970s, labelled Thea Porter, London, empire-lined trimmed with velvet ribbons, with pearl beaded butterfly motifs down the front, bust 81cm, 32in; together with en evening coat of Persian gold brocade (2) CONDITION REPORT: Dress- small brown mark to tip of one butterfly wing, faint rouge mark to front of skirt. Hem has been lengthened. Overall good condition. Coat in good condition.
Lot 225
A black beaded chiffon flapper dress, circa 1926, with overall seed-bead lobed motifs, 102cm, 40in; together with a poor condition Adair beaded pink chiffon dress, Paris label, bust 81cm, 32in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Black dress is good condition, pink dress has stains, has been altered and has a tear in a sleeve.
Lot 234
A blue chiffon beaded dress, mid 1920s, un-labelled, with bow to drop-waist and beaded with seed-beads in colourful repeats, bust 91cm, 36in CONDITION REPORT: Beading is good, missing a few edging beads at rear neckline, otherwise intact. Chiffon has a scattering of small damp marks to back bodice and a few small spot stains to front bodice and skirt, one small hole in rear bodice 1x1cm
Lot 235
A rare Ossie Clark canary-yellow moss crepe mini-dress, 1969, labelled and size 14, with pleats to sleeves, skirt and to centre back, pointed collar and attached tie-belt, bust 92cm, 36in, waist 81cm, 32in The dress was originally purchased by the owner in 1969 in a sale for £1.10, marked down from £2.10. CONDITION REPORT: Colour is vibrant. Faint light brown stain to front bodice, 4x0.5cm. A couple of faint marks to rear right cuff. A couple of pulled threads to crepe. Otherwise good.
Lot 237
A John Galliano black gabardine coat/dress, 'Pin-up/Misia Sert' collection, Spring-Summer 1995, burgundy satin Paris label, with Y-shaped pleats which form a peplum at the hips, creating a tapered skirt, double breasted with cord covered buttons and padded shoulders with lingerie-inspired top-stitching, bust approx 97cm, 38in, waist approx 76cm, 30in Galliano's inspiration for this collection included the Paris socialite, hostess and close friend of Coco Chanel - Misia Sert. Models, including Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell, sauntered down the catwalk past lingerie-strewn clothes rails to pose in front of a vintage 1950s classic car. This dress can be seen being modelled in video footage of the show. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition. Missing one button at hem but another spare button sewn to the inside. The owner has folded and tacked over a pleat of fabric on the inside closure edge which is concealed when the dress is buttoned up. Hem may have been altered as there is a strange seam arrangement in the lining on one side. The gaps between the buttons are 19cm apart from the bottom one which is 9.5cm to the hem. Exterior is fresh and good.
Lot 241
A Zandra Rhodes purple chiffon 'Ayers Rock' print dress, 1974, labelled and UK size 8, the asymmetric neckline with flounces and iridescent flower shaped sequins, bust approx 87cm, 34in CONDITION REPORT: Numerous small splits to chiffon front hem area and brown watermarks. Discolouration from perspiration along edge of satin band at bodice. Poor condition.
Lot 242
A Pucci brown printed silk dress and shawl, 1965, labelled, the jersey dress with low-scooped back and faux button fastenings to side of skirt; shawl with fringing and signature to print, bust 96cm, 38in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Dress has faint perspiration stains at underams. Shawl has a couple of faint light brown stains, concealed within the print.
Lot 245
An Ossie Clark for Radley green leaf-print cotton dress, circa 1975, labelled and size 12, the empire-line bodice with plunging neckline, bust 92cm, 36in CONDITION REPORT: Two areas of faint discolouration to lower right side of skirt near hem, largest approx 11x5cm (not immediately noticeable), otherwise good.
Lot 252
A group of cocktail wear, 1950s, including a Jacques Griffe haute couture chiné silk cocktail dress, labelled, the blue/grey silk with floral repeats; Hardy Amies black velvet dress with bows to shoulders, un-labelled with signature print lining; and others, various sizes (qty) CONDITION REPORT: · Griffe - silk is wrinkled at underarms with perspiration stains, not obvious due to print. Belt is creased. Silk at rear bodice across shoulder is speckled from perspiration and not immediately obvious. Hem has been raised. Scattering of pin marks from brooch to left side of collar. Bust 42in, 107cm. Waist 30in, 76cm. Slip has 2 watermarks to lower skirt and small white soil marks, needs re-stitching along zip (minor). Petticoat - perspiration stains at underarms, light brown stains to skirt. One strap needs re-stitching at one end. · Hardy Amies dress - good condition, bust 38in, waist 26in · Black and gold dress - good condition, bust 36in, waist 26in · Black jacket - rear centre back seam needs re-stitching and along rear hem. Front darts have been let out at waist, beading is good. Bust 36in.
Lot 253
A Jean Patou haute couture brown wool dress, 1960s, labelled and numbered 35332, silk bow to front, bust 102cm, 40in, waist 76cm, 30in; together with a Nina Ricci black wool jacket, 1950s, labelled, with black braid detailing and fan-like pockets, bust 97cm, 38in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Good condition.
Lot 255
A black wool coat with fur trimmed hem, 1940s, with elaborate rouleaux flowers to collar and hips, two deep front pockets, un-labelled; together with two day dresses, one labelled 'Adrienne Haute Couture 63 South Molton St', busts 92-107cm, 36-42in (3) CONDITION REPORT: Generally good. Blue velvet dress has split at left front shoulder, would benefit from cleaning.
Lot 256
A group of eveningwear, mostly 1930s, approx. 10 ensembles, including a gold fishnet gown with low back; red chiffon bias-cut gown with long sleeves; four assorted shawls, and others, various sizes (qty) CONDITION REPORT: · Generally good condition · Black crepe dress with sequined flowers - lacking the odd sequin, side closure needs re-stitching, slightly soiled, needs cleaning. Small darned repair at front neck · 1880s fichu - slightly faded, missing some beads front collar · Gold mesh dress - nice shape, nice and lustrous, slight tarnishing at hem, small break in mesh at each underarm and 2 splits near hem area each approx. 4cm, easily repairable. Small rouge mark to lining. · Red chiffon bias cut, late 1930s - a few small spot stains skirt front · Black and gold lame blouse/jacket - good condition · Black velvet bodice - good condition · Red organza blouse - splits at shoulders · Brown chiffon blouse - small soil mark, repair at underarm · Gold lame flapper with fringed hem - bad perspiration stains and wear at underarms (fair) · Pale green crushed velvet jacket - good condition but fur collar removed · Black jacket c.1918 made from a 1910s skirt - good condition · Blonde lace shawl c.1910 - good condition · Embroidered silk shawl - worn fringes, few spot stains · Black soutache embroidered stole in good condition · Embroidered satin cover c.1900 - good condition
Lot 257
An Ossie Clark for Radley black moss crepe dress, mid 1970s, labelled, embroidered with roses and with plunging key-hole neckline; together with a Dior boutique brown printed maxi-dress and a Jean Muir red midi-dress, busts 82-87cm, 32-34in (3) CONDITION REPORT: · Ossie Clark has beaded modesty panel inserted at neckline, could be removed. Hem needs re-stitching (minor). Otherwise good. · Dior Boutique London - few small holes where the heel has snagged hem but not immediately noticeable due to pattern, couple of small moth holes to one shoulder · Jean Muir - faint perspiration stains at underarms, brown stain 1cm diam at side hem, slight soiling to bodice
Lot 258
A cut velvet evening coat, 1930s, the lamé ground overlayed with black graph check and ivory repeats of flowers and birds, chest approx 112cm, 44in; together with a printed voile garden party gown, bust 86cm, 34in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Coat: good condition. Dress sleeves may have been removed, has quantity removed rosettes and a sleeve (we have them).
Lot 263
A Mary Quant grey wool dress, early 1960s, labelled, with school girl-style 'tie' to front, dropped waist, matching black and white belt, bust 92cm, 36in, waist 81cm, 32in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, faint perspiration stains to underarms, barely detectable. Small stain to hem of one tie panel. Great example!
Lot 265
A Jean Muir navy chiffon and leather dress, 1970s, labelled, with punched leather bands, bust 92cm, 36in; together with an Alistair D. Blair for Aguecheek evening dress; Janice Wainwright jumpsuit and Lainey macramé lurex dress, various sizes (4) CONDITION REPORT: All good condition. Jean Muir has a couple of faint dark brown stains to interior lining (minor)
Lot 267
A group of general summer-wear, mainly 1930s-50s, approx. 12 ensembles, including a navy crepe dress printed with yellow ducklings, matching coat; pink chiffon printed dress, the belt with faux coral carved buckle; and others, various sizes (qty) CONDITION REPORT: · Good condition. · Ducklings dress has two small holes to front waist area, otherwise very fresh · Silk 60s blouse - good condition · Pink chiffon lacking a button at neck, good condition · Printed blue silk suit - waistband has been altered, good condition · Brown and white silk crepe coat - small hole ion skirt area, lacking closure · 3 cotton 1950s/60s dresses, good condition · 30s embroidered bodice - good condition · Checked rayon 40s dress - good condition · Black tapelace jacket - good condition · 30s chiffon dress - shortened, altered at waist
Lot 272
A Christian Dior couture ensemble, Spring-Summer 1973, comprising; orange and beige check jacket with gently pleated back waist, labelled and numbered 02511, silk shirt, labelled and numbered 02513, and striped pleated skirt, indistinguishable handwritten label; together with a couture lamé pleated dress with beaded hem, probably Cardin, 1970s, un-labelled, busts approx 81cm, 32in-86cm, 34in (4) CONDITION REPORT: good condition
Lot 275
A Norman Norell buttercup-yellow wool suit, late 1960s, labelled, the A-line shift dress with deep white fox band to hem, broad top-stitched belt and matching short jacket, 86cm, 34in (3) CONDITION REPORT: Dress is good condition, fabulous colour, very clean and fresh in appearance. Jacket is good condition, slight soiling to buttons (minor).
Lot 279
A Zandra Rhodes 'Ayers Rock' printed chiffon dress, 1974, labelled, with quilted satin asymmetric neckline, with one integral kaftan-like chiffon sleeve, the other cascading cape-like over the bare shoulder, worn over black silk jersey under-dress, bust approx 86cm, 34in CONDITION REPORT: Black top-stitched edging satin has discoloured to dark green and has faded over the shoulder, chiffon is good condition. Overall good.
Lot 284
A Christian Dior boutique black gazar dress with bow, mid 1960s, Paris labelled and numbered 19275, with broad bateau neckline, three buttons to bodice above large bow, bust approx 86cm, 34in; together with a Christian Dior New York printed silk foulard dress in shades of brown, bust 86cm, 34in (2)
Lot 285
A yellow cotton day-dress with novelty appliqué, 1950s, un-labelled, the front skirt with a figure holding balloons; together with two black evening dresses, 1930s-50s, un-labelled, various sizes (3) CONDITION REPORT: Yellow dress: good condition. Long black evening dress: hem area is stiffened due to water damage.
Lot 287
A group of infant clothes belonging to Master Augustus Birch Bagster, 1807, with 1807 dated death certificate for the child aged 20 months, including a simple empire-line striped cotton day dress, knitted cotton stockings, a pair of brown leather lace up shoes, three lawn and linen wrapping vests, cotton baby robe; together with a quantity of bonnets c.1805 and later including a Hollie point example (qty) CONDITION REPORT: · Shoes: dark brown exterior finish is very rubbed overall, soles show signs of having been quite heavily used. · Stockings: slightly soiled appearance, one with large beautifully executed darned rectangular repair and 2 small, crude repairs, rear seam behind ankle has been re-sewn, other stocking in good condition. · Pink and white finely striped dress: bad brown staining, mainly concentrated on front bodice and skirt and rear skirt. · Long plain white nightdress has darned repair to front bodice below tie, discoloured from storage, needs cleaning. · 3 fine linen wrapping vests: Valenciennes trimmed one has 3 holes, one bears the initials in blue cross stitch AB4. Light staining generally. · White pique petticoat: darn to rear bodice, hem is heavily soiled. · 8 assorted caps including a doll cap with holes: 2 x whitework with Mechlin insertions - one very fresh and the other with a few small holes in the lace, overall good. Holliepoint cap - has small hole in back medallion of 2 lovebirds, panel above neck is of a pot of blooms with repairs to lower edge. Long panel to crown has a faint discolouration and a few small holes. Heavily whiteworked cap with insertions of bobbin lace and star medallion - good condition. Small whiteworked cap - bad tears. 2 larger plain lawn caps - good condition.
Lot 29
A Saint Laurent for Dior couture fuchsia satin cocktail dress, Autumn-Winter, 1959, labelled and numbered 103055, the bateau neckline and cuffs with top-stitched bands, bust 86cm, 34in, waist 61cm, 24in CONDITION REPORT: Needs repairs at underarms, satin has perished and rear right sleeve/bodice armhole where they join. Very slight rubbing to neck edge at sides. Faint freckle spot marks front left side of skirt and front top of skirt area - not particularly noticeable on a mannequin as the colour is so strong. Slight fraying to edge of lead-weighted hem. Interior is generally good and unaltered. Fresh and clean inside.
Lot 296
A lady's white lawn bodice, 1820s, with pin-tucked front panels, Dorset buttons; together with a woven sprigged muslin dress panel c.1805; two muslin caps - one with goffered front, two collars and assorted fragments (qty) Provenance: From same family as lot 287 CONDITION REPORT: · Bodice has brown discolouration down front panels, rear collar, small rust marks to cuffs but construction is good, unaltered. There would have been a decorative peplum/flounce to rear hem which has been removed. I think this would clean up very nicely. · Skirt panel with attached front bib-like bodice has overall woven sprigged repeats - good condition, clean and fresh · Chemisette with 2 matching whiteworked collars - bad splits, poor · Whiteworked muslin panel - 1 hole · Whiteworked cap inset with Mechlin - one seam needs slightly re-stitching Goffered cap - good condition
Lot 297
A pale brocaded pale green-grey brocaded silk dress, 1800, altered from a 1780s robe a l'anglaise, woven with repeat brown feather sprigs, with original boned back construction, closed front to bodice, and fall-front skirt with draw-string, with simple embroidered muslin apron (2) CONDITION REPORT: Dress: silk is generally sturdy and good. Faint perspiration stains at underarms. Front panels, shoulder and underarms are formed from patchworked panels. Upper back construction is unaltered 1770s-80s but the waist which would have been pointed, is straight. Slight staining to cuff areas. Hem has been made longer - nicely done, early 19th century alteration when dress was re-modelled. Faint watermark on skirt centre front and small brown stain to one side. Small brown spot stain to rear of skirt. Faint discolouration to pleated areas at top of rear skirt - barely noticeable. Muslin apron: good condition, small hole to one corner, one small rust spot
Lot 301
An ivory damask satin wedding dress, late 1880s, with corsetted bodice, the skirt with asymmetric pleats, integral bum-roll; together with button-hook, bust 81cm, 32in, waist 56cm, 22in (3) CONDITION REPORT: Perspiration stains at underarms and splits in satin here, skirt has moth damage, primarily to interior hem wool lining and across top front of skirt. Bodice needs re-stitching along seam at left front, approx 7cm, minor. Lace collar/cuffs are slightly discoloured. Fabric generally is good, no apparent alterations.
Lot 303
A Chanel Boutique printed crepe de chine dress, 1980s, labelled, with repeats of 'Coco Chanel', red bow to collar, bust 107cm, 42in, waist approx 92cm, 36in; together with a pair of Chanel Identification printed jeans, 2000s, labelled and size EU 42 (2) CONDITION REPORT: Good condition. Very faint perspiration stains to lower sleeves, hard to see, bow to dress has been pinned on.
Lot 307
Two Ossie Clark for Radley 'Come Fly With Me' moss crepe dresses, 1970s, one red with pleats, slit to front bodice, open back with ties, printed satin label; the other black in similar style, label removed, busts approx 87cm, 34in, waists approx 71cm, 28in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Red is fair/good at first glance but faint bleach spots on front waistband and skirt has been cleaned more than the bodice so is very slightly paler. Hem and shoulders are grimey. A few seams need re-stitching in places. Black dress has later added flounce to hem to conceal several roughly stitched repairs and added matching trim to neck which is easily removable. Unlabelled. Otherwise good.
Lot 308
A group of colourful designer clothing, 1970s-80s, labelled, comprising; Jean Muir green jersey maxi-dress; Pucci silk blouse; Zandra Rhodes sea-shell print chiffon top and a Kenzo printed jersey ensemble, busts approx 81-97cm, 32-38in (5) CONDITION REPORT: · Jean Muir is very fresh, fab colour, a few seams need re-stitching in a couple of places. Good, looks little worn · Pucci silk crepe de chine blouse - faint perspiration stains at underarms · Others all good condition and look barely worn
Lot 315
A Romeo Gigli black silk tulle dress, modern, labelled and size 44, the full skirt with layers of petticoats, bodice formed from wrapping single length of tulle repeatedly around the body, waist 66cm, 26in CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, very fresh, 2 pinhead sized holes to tulle about halfway down length (minor)
Lot 319
A group of finely tailored suits and dresses, mainly circa 1950, including a grey wool suit, the jacket with rhinestone 'brooches', nipped-in waist, lightly padded hips; cheongsam-style blue wool dress with matching jacket, labelled Hung Ha, H.K; and others, busts 86-97cm, 34-38in (9) CONDITION REPORT: Good. Blue late 40s suit is faded across shoulders.
Lot 32
A peacock-blue and black tartan silk dress, circa 1865, adorned with black rosettes, bust 92cm, 36in CONDITION REPORT: Later added braid to neck and cuffs. Skirt has been altered from original oval shape to a dome shape. Good condition for age. Colour is good with faint discolouration to a couple of small areas, not immediately obvious. Perspiration stains at underarms and creasing here. Staining/perspiration stains to interior of bodice at underarms and padded breast area. One detached bow inside pocket.
Lot 320
An Elinor Sims for Malcolm Starr beaded organza dress, late 1960s, labelled, woven with metallic threads, heavily beaded/sequined bodice; together with a Pauline Lavitt white jersey dress with gold sequined 'waistcoat', 1970s, labelled; and others, busts 86-97cm, 34-38in (7) CONDITION REPORT: good.
Lot 33
A Givenchy couture shot chartreuse/ivory silk faille cocktail dress, circa 1955-7, labelled and numbered 1603, with strapless, corsetted bodice, full skirt and two broad rear sash-like panels forming a watteau back, one with opening at the waist for dancing, bust 81cm, 32in, waist 56cm, 22in CONDITION REPORT: No alterations. Silk has badly perished at the underarms and has disintegrated leaving bare patches that exposes the white flannel corset covering. Fabric could possibly be taken from some of the other double-layered areas of the dress to repair. Left side seam needs re-stitching in 2 places. Apart from the underarms the dress is clean and fresh. Silk is frayed at zip closure edge. Provenance: same owner as bridal gown, lot 106, June 14th 2016 auction.
Lot 334
An Issey Miyake ikat woven cotton dress, Autumn-Winter, 1984, labelled, woven with giant polka-dots, large rectangular spencer-like collar, open lower back, matching belt, bust 92cm, 36in (2) CONDITION REPORT: perspiration stains at underarms and neck edge, faint discoloration to front pleat of skirt, may improve with cleaning
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