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Lot 387
2nd millennium BC. A pair of silver dress pins comprising: the smaller with round-section shaft, flared head with incised ribbing, domed upper face; the larger similar with pierced bulb to the neck, ropework collar. 18 grams total, 10.5-16cm (4 1/4 - 6 1/4"). From an old German collection; acquired before 1990. Extremely fine condition. [2]
Lot 1778
8th century AD. A gilt-bronze hollow-formed drum-shaped brooch with central roundel; the outer sidewall with lattice hatching; the upper face with beaded border and tribrach, three S-shaped animals in Salin's Style III; catchplate to the reverse. 18 grams, 42mm (1 3/4"). Property of a 19th century collector; thence by descent. Cf. MacGregor, A. et al. A Summary Catalogue of the Continental Archaeological Collections (Roman Iron Age, Migration Period, Early Medieval), Oxford, 1997, item 1.1; Rydh, H. Dosformiga Spännen från Vikingatiden, Stockholm, 1919. Drum brooches (also called ‘box brooches’, Swedish Dosspännen"). were a Scandinavian fashion of the Viking period, beginning in the late 8th century AD and mainly featuring Oseberg style gripping-beast motifs. They remained popular throughout the period into the 11th century AD. They are especially associated with the island of Gotland, the crossroads of trade and traffic in the Baltic where a variety of cultural influences were felt. Occasional examples occur elsewhere in the area of Scandinavian power, plausibly associated with the movement of brides from Gotland to foreign homelands. The earliest (8th century"). examples are high-quality multi-part castings with lavish use of gold, parcel-gilding and silver; by the later Viking age they appear in bronze and gilt-bronze. The original artistic motifs also evolve into more geometric forms with increased use of knotwork. As a type, these brooches are characterised by their discoid upper face divided into symmetrical sectors, often with openwork detail; cords and faux-ropework to the edges are a consistent feature of the later designs; some feature a separate cast upper plate while on others it is the baseplate which is separate, occasionally the central knop is also a separate casting. It has been suggested that drum brooches were used to hold small valuables, although this seems improbable – these were normally suspended from the girdle or necklace for display. They were most probably used to fasten the triangular shawl or mantle which covered the upper body, in the dress fashion which included the heavy hängerok dress which was worn outside the undershift; the hängerok was often of rich fabric with embroidered borders, and the metal jewellery and glass beads were used to add richness to the costume. It may be this type of brooch (or the tortoise form"). which was referred to by the Arab traveller Ibn Fadlan when he mentioned that Rus women wore on their chests drum-shaped brooches of iron, copper, silver or gold, whose decoration indicated the wealth of their husbands. The present example with Salin's Style III ornament is among the very earliest known, dating from the 8th century before the onset of the Viking period. It does not feature the customary separate baseplate. Good very fine condition. Extremely rare.
Lot 204
Three dress rings, a yellow metal ring collet set with an oval coral cameo, ring size M, an oval slice of malachite collet set in a closed back setting, shank stamped 9ct, ring size N, a circular cluster with amethyst (1), to centre surrounded by seed pearls (12), ring size O. total gross weight approximately 11.5gms. (3)
Lot 5
Late Period, 664-332 BC. A sheet of gold with three figures consisting of a naked female holding a lute, a male with arms crossed at chest and the figure of a goddess with tripartite wig and long dress; hieroglyphs around figures. 0.59 grams, 41mm (1 1/2"). Fine condition. From a European private collection; formerly in a 1980s German collection.
Lot 1625
15th century AD. A silver-gilt D-section ring brooch, pin with pellets to the collar; seriffed capitals to the flat face 'IOSOIAI.ENLEV.DEMMI:' for 'I am [here] in place of me'. 2.26 grams, 21mm (3/4"). Ex Adam collection, Ontario, Canada; acquired in Canada 2004-2006. Cf. Egan, G. & Pritchard, F. Dress Accessories 1150-1450, London, 2002, item 1337 for type. Extremely fine condition.
Lot 543
11th-14th century AD. A matched pair of gold earrings, each a curved rod and bifacial plaque with herringbone filigree to the upper edge, filigree coils with granule detailing, cells for conical and cabochon garnets, green hardstone crescent and granule fillet extending below. 29 grams total, 58-60mm (2 1/4"). Very fine condition; one conical garnet absent. [2] From an important London collection, acquired in the 1970s. Through the centuries the most important aspect of Turkish female dress is that it maintained traditional lines that did not reflect the financial position of the wearer. The social standing of the person was seen in the material used for the clothes, often silk, and being embellished with rich accessories, such as tiaras, earrings, pearl necklaces, and arm and ankle bracelets. Much of the jewellery worn by Seljuk women was strongly influenced by styles from Central Asia and often adorned with stones from that region as well as India.
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