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Lot 275

A rare Westwood/McLaren 'Nostalgia of Mud, Buffalo' collection printed knitted dress, Autumn-Winter, 1982-83, World's End labelled, with cable-knit yoke and sleeves, the skirt with trained rear hem printed with repeats of dancing 'Buffalo' girls and tribal figures in masks, with cable knit edges, bust approx 112cm, 44inThis was worn by a man (the vendor) as the clothes were intended to be uni-sex. See 'Vivienne Westwood' V&A publications p61 for an advertisement photograph taken at the time showing a similar dress. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, light bobbling to chunky wool knit

Lot 276

A rare Westwood/McLaren white cotton 'Mauvaise' empire-style dress, 'Pirate' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1981-82, World's End but un-labelled, with button fastenings to the high bodice sides, ties to rear waist, long trained skirt, bust approx 81cm, 32in Provenance: this was bought by the vendor at a Westwood sample sale in the early 1980s for £5 and never worn as it did not fit her.From a construction standpoint this dress is a fairly accurate copy of a dress c.1800 with its high narrow bodice and long trained skirt. Westwood researched antique dress in the Victoria & Albert museum and this dress reflects that. The very early 'Mauvaise' dresses were un-labelled as is this one. In the catwalk show it was accessorised with a golden helmet and a green stole. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, very fresh. Tiny light brown spot mark to rear right shoulder and very faint light brown stain to bodice tie (minor).

Lot 283

A John Galliano navy wool gabardine coat-dress, 'Blanche DuBois', Spring-Summer 1988, Galliano London label and UK12, with double-breasted front and full, swagged 'blown away 'skirt hem, hem cut shorter at the front with button-holed inner band to form polonaise drapes, bust approx 96cm, 38in CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, no problems

Lot 287

A rare and early John Galliano blanket-wool dress, 'Forgotten Innocents' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1986-87, un-labelled, with 'Circle'-cut bodice and long sleeves, optional short sleeves (functional as well as decorative) sailor collar, the hem rolled back and held in a tape with rear pouched drape, bust approx 76cm, 30in CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, no problems. Overall impression is clean, fresh and good. Very faint soil mark on skirt front. Pinhead moth hole to rear right hip.

Lot 294

A John Galliano bias-cut beige viscose dress, Spring-Summer 1987, Galliano London label and UK 8, with diagonal panels and pleated harem-style hem, bust approx 86cm, 34inIn this collection Galliano began to experiment with the bias cut - although not in the full-blown 30s style which was to follow and for which he was to become recognized. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition.

Lot 296

An Azzedine Alaïa black leather `zipper' dress, Spring-Summer 1986, labelled and size 40, with wide biker-style lapels, curving diagonal front opening, wide shoulders, bust approx 102cm, 40in, waist 76cm, 30inFrida Khelfa is pictured modelling the denim version of this dress next to Azzedine Alaïa in 1986. See 'Alaïa' by Palais Galliera p.171. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition. Light surface scratches to leather, minor.

Lot 298

An Azzedine Alaïa brown jersey dress, Spring-Summer 1984, labelled and size 44, the bodice formed from a single length of fabric which drapes over the head creating a hood, press-stud fastenings to rear of skirt, waist 76cm, 30in For a photograph of a longer version of this dress, see 'Alaïa', Palais Galliera, p.121. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition. Interior hem edge is frayed, minor- the length and cut of the hem is original. Slight soiling, would benefit from cleaning. Very slight fraying to bottom of hood panel at rear waist (minor). One pres-stud fastening is missing from rear waist. Seam stitches on rear bias cut hem flounce, have been re-sewn by hand, approx. 15cm.

Lot 299

An Azzedine Alaïa burgundy jersey dress, Spring-Summer 1984, labelled and size 42, the bodice formed from a single length of fabric which drapes over the head creating a hood, press-stud fastenings to rear of skirt, waist 76cm, 30in For a photograph of a longer version of this dress, see 'Alaïa', Palais Galliera, p.121. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition. The hood for this is twisted

Lot 300

A Chanel couture 'Chess' dress, Autumn-Winter, 1986-87, bearing defilé label 'Atelier Colette, H 86, Robe 90', of black satin, the strapless bodice embroidered by Lesage with a chess-board and pieces in sequins, ivory and scarlet bugle beads, the bodice and skirt trimmed with sable, the skirt trimmed with bows, bust approx 86cm, 34in CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, superb embroidery, no obvious losses to beads or sequins. Dress is clean and fresh in appearance, looks little worn.

Lot 306

A Capucci couture black silk cocktail dress, 1980s, Alta Moda labelled, with boxy side seams and curved, wing-like panels to sleeves with black and white striped edging, bust 86cm, 34in CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, no problems

Lot 310

A Vivienne Westwood 'Long Blossom' corset gown, Autumn-Winter 2005-6, gold label and size 14, of striped silk and black tulle, with pointed asymmetric neckline, bust approx 86cm, 34inHelena Bonham Carter wore an identical dress to the premiere of her film 'Dark Shadows' on May 9th 2012. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, no problems, looks little worn

Lot 313

An Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche 'Mondrian' knitted cotton mini-dress, circa 1990, labelled and size 40, a re-interpretation of the 1965 original with colour blocks divided by black lines, bust 86cm, 34in CONDITION REPORT: Large faint light brown watermark to front white panel. Has been washed.

Lot 314

A Jean Paul Gaultier 'Cowboy' lace corset dress, `La Concierge est dans l'Escalier' collection, Spring-Summer, 1998, unlabelled, of nude lycra overlaid with figurative lace, concentrically top stitched underwired breast cups, striped satin bands to the skirt and sides, with black stretch satin back-laced panel, bust approx 81cm, 32in CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, cowboy panels are good. Couple of minor breaks in the tulle but generally good. Spot stains to bodice and upper skirt lining, the one on the skirt is barely visible on the outside, the others are not visible at all. 2 spot stains to centre back hem lining - only one is barely visible, the other doesn't show. Dress would benefit from cleaning.

Lot 315

A Jean Paul Gaultier quilted black dress and lime jacket, 'Cyber-space/MadMax' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1995-96, Femme labelled, quilted overall with machine-like forms and the nos '393C', the short jacket with dyed fur trim, bust 86cm, 34in (2) CONDITION REPORT: good condition

Lot 321

A Jean Paul Gaultier quilted dress 'Cyber-space/MadMax' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1995-96, Maille labelled, of printed tulle over knit, bust 92cm, 36in CONDITION REPORT: Good condition

Lot 322

A Dolce & Gabbana jute 'feedsack' mini-dress, Spring-Summer 1992, labelled and size 42, the front painted with slogans and with rhinestone embellished 'Love Me Baby', intentionally frayed hem and shoulder straps, bust 102cm, 40in, waist 71cm, 28in An identical dress was modelled by Cindy Crawford on the runway for this collection, and also by Monica Bellucci for the advertising campaign shot by Steven Meisel. CONDITION REPORT: Missing area of fringing at right side hem and has approx 2 faint light brown stains to rear seat area, not immediately obvious. Stretch marks to jute at waistline.

Lot 329

A Martin Margiela shocking pink draped chiffon dress, '20th Anniversary' collection, Spring-Summer, 2009, with blank label, size M, with outsized, boned sweet-heart shaped bodice, slits to the size for the arms and outsize shoulder straps, with internal circle of tan stocking which attaches to the chest, the cotton under-dress covered with two optional circles for the legs, covered in Jean Dessès style drapes CONDITION REPORT: good condition, unworn

Lot 338

A Comme de Garçons Noir layered dress, Spring-Summer, 1988, labelled and size M, the dark grey silk dress with long tiered flounced pointed rear skirt only, worn with goffered pleated polyester skirt and over-skirt of lurex flecked stretch polyester with organza flounces to one side (3) An identical dress was included in 'ESSENCE OF QUALITY, TOKYO' exhibition in 1993, organized by Kyoto Costume Institute. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, no problems

Lot 340

A Comme des Garçons show-piece 'Roses & Blood' collection, Spring-Summer 2015, comprising: satin Peter-Pan collar with buckled closure; shaped neoprene and polyester satin crinoline skirt falling in three bulbous tiers with webbing shoulder straps and side ties; and an over-dress formed from ruched and gathered lattices in shades of matt-red cotton and lustrous satin (3)Rei Kawakubo's collection had a 'blood-soaked' theme. The collection was red throughout - from the flowing ribbons and rosettes through to the neoprene and plastic except for one ominous black pointed hood that appeared towards the end. She took the colour of blood and transformed it into satin roses or gathered bands of fabric that gave the impression of them. This was look 14 on the catwalk - and one of the most spectacular and extreme creations of the entire collection. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, no problems

Lot 344

An Issey Miyake A-POC 'Square' dress, circa 2005, labelled, of silver-grey polyester twill woven in large squares, applied overall with square floating panels with buttons and loops to shoulders to form the neckline, ties to waist, and folded back to form a square for storage CONDITION REPORT: Good condition

Lot 345

A Yohji Yamamoto purse/pinafore dress, Spring-Summer, 2001, labelled and size 3, of lightweight black wool, front skirt with integral purse with metal mounts and clasp, the strap forming a halter-neck, waist 76cm, 30in An identical model was exhibited in the MOMU 'Dream Shop' exhibition devoted to Yamamoto, 2006 (Antwerp Fashion Museum) and reproduced in the Rizzoli catalogue 'Yamamoto & Yohji' p340. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, no problems

Lot 351

A Comme des Garçons ivory and black muslin dress, Spring-Summer, 2014, labelled, angular shaped hips, the body of the dress with graphic intertwining curved panels, bust approx 96cm 38in This dress was look no. 10 on the runway. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, no problems

Lot 354

A Junya Watanabe for Comme des Garçons ensemble, 'Waterproof' collection, Spring-Summer, 2000, the bias-cut polka dot dress of water-proof fabric with single sleeve and undulating wired shoulder panel that can be worn in a variety of ways, lined in pink goretex mesh; with separate grey and lime ruff collar, bust 86cm, 34in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, no problems

Lot 355

A Comme des Garçons embroidered polyester organdie dress, 'Adult Punk' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1997-98, ribbon labelled and size M, the cream organdie bonded to front and back with irregular wool mesh panels embroidered with leaves in metallic threads; with purple tulle over-dress (2)This was look 3 on the catwalk. US Vogue was so impressed with this collection that they commissioned Annie Leibovitz to photograph the key pieces (including this one) for a double-page spread for their September 1997 edition. Vogue describes the clothes as looking as though they had come from 'Miss Havisham's couture atelier' and that 'Kawakubo's take on pattern-making [was] a send up of the way clothes are made.' The Leibovitz photograph is also reproduced in 'Future Beauty' pp94-95. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, looks unworn

Lot 356

An early Comme des Garçons dress, Spring-Summer, 1983, ribbon label, of brick-red viscose, the front panel twisted and criss-crossed with openings at the front waist CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, very fresh

Lot 361

A Comme des Garçons flocked velvet ensemble, 'Flowering Clothes' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1996-97, printed ribbon label, size M, the dove-grey cut-velvet dress with empire-line drawstring, calico linings with padded neckline and cuffs; the matching under-dress with padded eider-down like hem, divided into two sections so it can be worn as culottes or a dress (2)

Lot 363

A Comme des Garçons Noir black silk organza dress, 'Movement' collection, label dated 1988 and size M, stretch black jersey under-dress with long sleeves, under tiered ruffled organza over-dress, with plain ankle-length section that can worn down or pulled up and tied at the waist, with separate purple and blue satin ribbon bow which ties across the chest An identical dress was included in 'ESSENCE OF QUALITY, TOKYO' exhibition in 1993, organized by Kyoto Costume Institute. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, looks unworn

Lot 366

A Comme des Garçons tartan ensemble, 'Transformed Glamour' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1999-2000, ribbon label, the dress formed in two parts - a panel with shaped front bodice seams with long left sleeve; the other with short sleeve and long plaid-like panels to tie over, complete with kilt pin, the otherwise traditional tartan wool woven with gold lurex bands (3) CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, no problems

Lot 368

Victor Edelstein sketch of Princess Diana's black velvet evening gown, dated Autumn, 1988, signed and annotated in pencil with fabric details, back and front views in black and red gouache, 33 by 23cm, 13 by 9in in mount The matching dress was sold as lot 75 in the Christies auction of the Princess' dresses, 25th June 1997. She had worn it to the premiere of 'Dangerous Liasons'. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition

Lot 369

Victor Edelstein sketch of Princess Diana's bottle green velvet evening gown, dated Autumn 1985, signed and annotated in pencil with fabric details, back and front views in green gouache, 33 by 23cm, 13 by 9in in mount KTA sold the matching velvet evening gown as lot 1, 17th March 2013. The dress had little finger prints on the skirt, possibly left by a young Prince. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition

Lot 373

Victor Edelstein sketch of Princess Diana's midnight blue ball gown, dated Autumn 1985, signed in pencil, black and blue gouache with front and back details to show construction, 33 by 23cm, 13 by 9in in mount Probably one of the most famous of Princess Diana's dresses. She wore the velvet gown when she memorably danced with John Travolta at the White House. The dress was sold as lot 79 in the Christies auction of the Princess' dresses, 25th June 1997.and again by KTA as lot 10, 17th March 2013. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition

Lot 374

Princess Diana's Arabella Pollen silk ensemble, worn for an Official Royal visit to Adelaide, 5th April, 1983, labelled, 'Pollen London', in caramel, white and primrose stripes, comprising: loose jacket with self-covered buttons, horizontally striped patch pockets, pleated silk skirt and cummerbund tie sash, chest approx 97cm, 38in, waist 74cm, 29in; together with a letter of provenance (4)Provenance: The dress was given to the vendor who worked as a nanny for a well-connected family from Northamptonshire who were good friends of 'Fergie' as she was affectionately known - Sarah, Duchess of York. She was a regular visitor and on one occasion also brought with her to dinner HRH the Prince and Princess of Wales. Princess Diana and the Duchess of York each donated two dresses to the vendor's employer to sell for charity. But on Christmas morning 1987, to the vendor's delight she was given this striped silk ensemble as a surprise present as she was such a huge fan of the Princess. It has remained in her possession ever since.Princess Diana wore this ensemble on the first day the Royal tour of South Australia, worn with a straw boater and a blouse with ruff collar which had become synonymous with the 'Lady Di' style.The Royal couple were taken to the Adelaide Town Hall where they were treated to a State Reception followed by a trip to the Community Centre to watch a keep fit class amongst other pursuits, which were recorded on newsreels of the day.Princess Diana seemed smiling and self-assured, but later admitted that she found the first few days of the Australian tour traumatic. Although she disguised it well, the Princess was feeling unwell, believed she looked 'too thin' and found it difficult to cope with the sweltering temperatures. She also keenly felt the separation from young Prince William to whom Australian Prime Minister, Malcolm Fraser, had thoughtfully extended the invitation. However massive crowds and 95 degree temperatures made it unsuitable. Still at the crawling stage, Prince William was safely ensconced with his nanny at Woomargama, a 4000 acre sheep station in New South Wales which Prince Charles and Princess Diana visited as often as they could amid their hectic schedule but at least Diana knew he was under the same sky. With a population of 17 million, over a 1 million Australians turned up in person to greet the couple on their four-week tour. But everywhere they went, the crowds clamoured for the Princess and complained when Prince Charles went over to their side of the street on a walkabout, much to his obvious displeasure.However, the success of this gruelling tour marked a turning point in Diana's Royal life. Andrew Morton, in 'Diana Her True Story - In Her Own Words', p142, wrote:'She went out a girl, she returned home a woman...(the Australian trip) signalled the slow resurrection of her inner spirit'The international press complained that Diana was often dressed more like a dowager than a young Princess. US fashion critic Mr Blackwell, put the Princess at the top of his Worst Dressed List, stating she had gone from 'a very young, independent, fresh look' to a 'tacky, dowdy' style. However, the loose flowing lines of this ensemble made it cool, practical and drew attention away from her slender form. CONDITION REPORT: Waistline on the skirt has been widened, otherwise good condition.

Lot 381

Dame Shirley Bassey's magnificent show ensemble by Douglas Darnell, late 1960s, comprising brown chiffon catsuit encrusted with pearlescent sequined flowers, shell-shaped sequins, pearl beads, lace, turquoise droplets and Swarovski aquamarine, topaz and aurora borealis crystals; together with a matching trained evening coat covered in shimmering iridescent sequins, lined in gold lamé and edged in ostrich plumes; and a matching over-dress with lavishly beaded bodice over layered eau de nil voile skirts edged in braid, bust approx 86cm, 34in (3)Provenance: ex lot 42, Christies Auction 'Dame Shirley Bassey - 50 Years of Glittering Gowns', 18th September, 2003, sold for £6000.This ensemble was much loved and worn on stage from the late 1960s until the 1990s. It was photographed for the inside gatefold of the 'Something Else' (1971) album; the cover of 'Diamonds Are Forever' (1971); 'Star des Bal Pare'; 'Love Story Por Su' and the Shirley Bassey Collection. The legs were originally flared and the hems trimmed with feathers, which were later removed by Darnell and the trouser legs straightened. The catsuit was worn for performances including 'The Talk of the Town' shows in April 1970 and both the catsuit and dress for her 60th Birthday concert at Althorp Park, July 1997. CONDITION REPORT: ·Cat suit: general overall impression is good, no obvious bead losses. Small break in nude chiffon at left underarm approx. 1cm diam. Large splits in chiffon at crotch area. 7cm long tear in chiffon top of left leg. 4cm split in chiffon at left knee. Small breaks in lace near the hem. Small break (approx. 1cm) in chiffon below rear zip. Inside corsetry lining has been crudely chopped at the front midriff.·Sequinned coat: generally good, sequins and feathers are good, very slight soiling to rear trained hem (minor). Lining is lustrous and good. 6cm split in sequined chiffon top layer on left hip and 2 small holes on left front skirt area. Occasional small holes in chiffon at hem edge. Small splits in chiffon at underarms areas. None of this damage is immediately noticeable. ·Over-dress: good condition, looks less used that the cat suit. Beading is good, occasional small hole in the lace overlay on the bodice and splits in the lace overlay over the shoulder/sleeve area. The beading is superb and conceals the zip. 6 floating gauze skirt panels - one has faint stains, one has numerous small snags where a heel has caught but these are on the inside so not immediately noticeable.

Lot 382

Dame Shirley Bassey's white sequined 'Harem' stage dress, designed by Douglas Darnell, late 1960s, of ivory devoré chiffon with graduated spots overall, the scanty diamond shaped bodice panels linked to the bias-cut skirt by bugle beaded straps, covered overall in Swarovski aurora borealis crystal and large mirror sequins to the skirt, bust approx 86cm, 34inThe harem or 'belly-dancer' dress was delivered by Darnell to the Prince of Wales Theatre, but he arrived late, running through the streets with the dress over his arm. However, the star couldn't fit inside the dress so Darnell recalled he 'clawed her bottom down into it - by which time she looked as though she'd been got at by a tiger'.Provenance: ex lot 49, Christies Auction 'Dame Shirley Bassey - 50 Years of Glittering Gowns', 18th September, 2003, sold for £4500. Dame Shirley was photographed wearing this gown on stage in Viareggio Italy in 1968,. See Getty images link http://www.gettyimages.co.uk/license/174311211. CONDITION REPORT: Some sequins lacking from breast cups, heavy losses mainly left breast. The matching back panels are good. Sequins missing from front stomach/hip areas. Slight soiling to hem edge. Lining has holes and snags at rear train. Few holes visible on upper side but concealed within beads and sequins.

Lot 385

A Jean-Louis Scherrer by Stephane Rolland degradé dyed fox-fur evening cape and velvet dress, Autumn-Winter, 2005-06, the dress with defilé label, look no 10, the unlined cape banded in purple suede, with graduated pink-green fur bands, the cut velvet and satin dress, bust 86cm, 34in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, no problems

Lot 387

A Jean-Louis Scherrer by Stephane Rolland black satin sheath and feathered jacket, probably Autumn-Winter 1996-7, the jacket labelled 'Atelier Richard, no 24', the strapless bias-cut dress, with rouleaux piped breast cups; the fitted silk jacket covered in dyed guinea-fowl plumes with cock feather band to the hem, bust 81cm, 32in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Dress is good condition, hem lining is tacked in place rather than properly hem-stitched. Jacket - the feathers slightly dusty and squashed over the shoulders, collar slightly soiled inside neck edge, very slight deodorant marks at underarms.

Lot 391

A Jean-Louis Scherrer by Stephane Rolland feathered chiffon dance dress, Autumn-Winter 2002-3, defilé label, look 34, of shot wine/green chiffon, layered in criss-cross bands over the bodice, and in fronds over the skirt applied with white-ivory ostrich plumes, bust 81-86cm, 32-34in CONDITION REPORT: good condition, very slight cream tinging to edges of some of the plumes

Lot 392

A Jean-Louis Scherrer by Stephane Rolland burgundy velvet dress with painted train, Autumn-Winter 1988-89, defilé label, look 36, the fitted 19th century inspired gown of shot wine-black velvet with concealed front zip closure faux ruby rhinestone buttons, the cuffs edged in mink, the skirt painted with angels; the matching train painted with 'the Rape of Persephone', also edged in mink, bust 86cm, 34in, waist 61cm, 24in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, no problems, slightly creased from storage.

Lot 397

A Jean-Louis Scherrer by Stephane Rolland silver lace evening gown with Directoire style painted velvet coat, Autumn-Winter, 1998-99, the dress with defilé label, look 34, back-less spaghetti straps, the lace covered in golden sequins and rosebuds formed from silver braid, peach and silver beads; the coat with sack-back hand-painted with neo-classical male figure, bust approx 81cm, 32in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, no problems. Velvet is slightly crumpled from storage but creases will fall out of displayed or left to hang.

Lot 398

A Jean-Louis Scherrer by Stephane Rolland 'Lips' dress, Autumn-Winter, 2003-4, bearing defilé label, look no 36, the back-less military-style bodice with three rows of crested buttons, stand collar completely covered in raised-work gold embroidery with large rhinestone lips to the waist above slim black velvet trained skirt, bust approx 81-86cm, 32-34in, waist 66cm, 26in CONDITION REPORT: Waistline on front right waist needs slightly re-stitching (minor)

Lot 412

A Jean-Louis Scherrer by Stephane Rolland black bias-cut satin 'Ribbon' dress, Spring-Summer, 2003, defilé label, look 49, figure-hugging with criss-cross satin strip bands which tie at the rear hem, bust 81-85cm, 32-34in; together with a spiky cockerel feather fichu, AW 2002-3 (2)

Lot 415

A Jean-Louis Scherrer by Stephane Rolland red crêpe 'goddess' gown with film-reel bolero, Spring-Summer 2004 and Autumn-Winter, 2002, defilé labels for looks 43, 22, the dress with asymmetric neckline and trained cape falling from one shoulder, the black organza bolero covered in graduated streamers of film, lined in satin, bust approx 81cm, 32in (2) CONDITION REPORT: dress - good condition - cape - generally good, slightly crumpled from storage

Lot 416

A Jean-Louis Scherrer by Stephane Rolland dark patent faux croc ensemble, Spring-Summer 2000, defilé labels, looks 21, 25, comprising: evening coat with turquoise beaded cuffs, lined in red taffeta, with turquoise silk leggings; and a mock-croc halter neck gown similar, bust approx 81-86cm, 32-34in (3) CONDITION REPORT: The trained hem of the dress h as been held in place by sticky-tape. Hem of trained coat - the edge is soiled

Lot 419

A Jean-Louis Scherrer by Stephane Rolland black velvet bias cut gown with matching opera coat, Autumn-Winter 1998-99, defilé label, look 24, the coat with low-set fox-trimmed kimono sleeves, bust 86-92cm, 34-36in (2) CONDITION REPORT: occasional impressions in the velvet from storage, deodorant marks at underarms on dress lining (minor), velvet pile is pressed down at underarms (minor), slight soil mark on hem (minor)

Lot 420

A Jean-Louis Scherrer by Stephane Rolland gold bugle beaded flapper style cocktail dress, Autumn-Winter 2000-01, defilé label, look 18, the nude tulle mesh ground covered with flame-like patterns in gold bugle beads and sequins, bust 81cm, 32in

Lot 422

A Jean-Louis Scherrer by Stephane Rolland mirrored black velvet evening gown and fox fur coat, Autumn-Winter, 2003, defilé label, look 28, the dress with plunging V-neck, the hem with shatter-effect mirror paillettes and glass beads; the coat lined in red satin with satin tie belt and black suede waist, bust approx 86cm, 34in (3)

Lot 68

A Spitalfields brocaded silk robe à l'Anglaise, the silk probably Anna Maria Garthwaite, the fabric late 1730s, construction altered circa 1750, woven with large-scale sprays of hops, blossom in shades of blue, brown mauve with bright green and chartreuse silk foliage, the double engageants with scalloped edges, pleated front robings, part lined in ivory silk; together with a front petticoat panel (2)Provenance: Sizergh Castle, Cumbria CONDITION REPORT: The bodice robing tips have been cut, waistline is altered. The silk is fresh and bright and sturdy overall. Faint perspiration stains at underarms with slight splitting at right underarm and small repair at left underarm. Slight soiling to silk at hem edge. Front left hem edge has been slightly raised. Skirt is lined at front opening edges and lined centre-back with panel from waist to hem. Front openings are also lined in ivory silk at the edges. Silk lining is split in places along hem edge - minor. Petticoat panel - taken apart from other panel used on other matching dress. Faint stain to centre above hem with holes within - although because the pattern is busy - not immediately noticeable.

Lot 69

A Spitalfields brocaded silk robe à l'Anglaise, the silk late 1730s, probably Anna Maria Garthwaite, the construction 1750, woven with large-scale sprays of hops, blossom in shades of blue, brown mauve with bright green and chartreuse silk foliage, the double engageants with scalloped pinked edges, pleated front robings, the front skirt opening with later sewn-in petticoat panel, lined in ivory silkProvenance: Sizergh Castle, Cumbria CONDITION REPORT: Fabric is clean, fresh and good, the front skirt panel could be detached if so desired. The other part of the petticoat is sold with the second matching dress. Perspiration stains and small splits at underarms. The bodice has been cut and taken in at both side seams, the skirt folds at the waist have been altered to match, the waist seams have been altered.

Lot 75

A plaited ribbon and straw quill-work turban-like hat, 1800-1810, asymmetric with ivory silk cord rosette and fringes to one side and narrow up-turned brim, 33cm, 13in long; together with a blonde lace early 19th century hem panel, two embroidered reticules; the remains of a printed silk purse; an ivory net stole and a bolt of fringing (7)Provenance: Sizergh Castle, Cumbria CONDITION REPORT: Hat is in need of conservation - numerous breaks in the straw quills; printed silk purse is distressed; embroidered mesh purses - soiled but otherwise good; mesh stole is good condition; bolt of fringing is good condition; lace hem from an 1820s dress has numerous holes

Lot 76

A Spitalfields forest-green damask silk robe à l'Anglaise, circa 1770, the fabric circa 1743, woven with large scale flowerheads, berries and leaves, with ribbon-tied close front bodice, the angular cuffs edged in self-fringingSee V&A Museum for a similar Anna Maria Garthwaite design, no T.391-1971.Provenance: Sizergh Castle, Cumbria CONDITION REPORT: Fabric has been re-used from an earlier dress and the bodice is formed from patches of fabric, perspiration stains at the underarms, stains to hem and two pink stains on front skirt, silk lining to hem edge has a few small holes and one repair, let out centreback and under armholes

Lot 77

A brown damask satin sleeved waistcoat, circa 1740, the fabric circa 1732, the long and wide-skirted with double row of silk wrapped buttons grouped in threes to the front closure and three to each pocket, the buttonholes above the waist are functional, with original plain silk curved sleeves overlaid in the late 19th century for fancy dress with beige glazed wool sleeves and wide cuffs, chest 86cm, 34inSee V&A museum for a similar Anna Maria Garthwaite design no 5971:2.Provenance: Sizergh Castle, Cumbria CONDITION REPORT: lacking two buttons from front closure, replacement sleeves are early 20th century of pinky beige challis. Perspiration stains at underarms. If you peel back the wool from the cuff - an 18th century sleeve with buff silk cuffs are visible, however these appear to match lot 88. Lacking linings to rear skirt. Cotton lining to upper areas is possibly replaced. 2 silver thread covered buttons at the back.

Lot 84

Spitalfields brocaded silk dress panels, circa 1750, the figured ivory silk woven with meanders of tulips and roses, comprising 5 loom widths from the skirt, each approx 120 x 49cm; a longer panel probably from the sack back with irregular cutouts, a quantity of fragments and a pair of curved sleeve cuffs (qty)Provenance: Sizergh Castle, Cumbria CONDITION REPORT: Skirt panels - three are still joined, two front panels have curved hems - hem edges are soiled generally, colours are good. One of the front skirt panels is soiled and has large peach-toned stains. There are two triangular skirt godets which have been cut. Long panel (probably taken from sack-back) has large curved chunks cut from it but the colours are good. Assorted bodice and other fragments - generally soiled and poor condition

Lot 87

An historically inspired evening dress or fancy-dress, 1820s, the bodice piped with tabbed waist, piped in green satin and edged in silver braid, layered ruffled silk gauze sleeves edged in pink silk; with silk gauze overskirt with matching satin and passementerie rosette; and a padded dress hem - presumably taken from an underskirt, bust approx 76-81cm, 30-32in (3)Provenance: Sizergh Castle, Cumbria CONDITION REPORT: Bodice has faded, splits in silk gauze at underarms of sleeves; silk gauze overskirt is fragile and is mounted over a modern crepe de chine silk petticoat. The padded green silk hem band has a few small stains and holes

Lot 94

An unusual cotton filet mesh open robe, 1790-1800, possibly for fancy-dress, with empire-line inner bodice panels, cross-over bodice, sleeves and trained skirt edged in yellow ribbonProvenance: Sizergh Castle, Cumbria CONDITION REPORT: Generally good condition, ivory silk lining to the cross-over bodice panels is brittle, the quality of internal finishing and the crudity of the net suggests to me that it was for fancy dress.

Lot 95

Embroidered linen dress fragments, probably Beauvais, late 18th century, worked with delicately scrolling carnations, roses and other blooms with patterned petals and raised-work detailing, the two larger panels approx 130 by 85cm, 107 by 85cm, and five shaped fragments; together with three fragments of yellow false-quilted linen c.1710, the two larger panels 78 by 59cm, 77 by 59cm (10)Provenance: Sizergh Castle, Cumbria CONDITION REPORT: Chain stitched coloured pieces - colours are brilliant, ground is fresh and clean; false quilted panels - damp speckles generally - fair

Lot 169

A black lace dress, three velvet tops, a crepe skirt and dress

Lot 101

9 ct gold dress ring with central red stone, size N

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