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Click here to subscribeA rare pair of grapefruit shaped bust improvers with internal springs, 1890s, of white cotton with ties to the sides; together with a pair of top-stitched calico bust improvers reinforced with horsehair, front laced; and a Dr Warner`s black sanitary corset, late 1870s, with quilted breast panels, button-fronted with elasticated back, (3)
A fine striped ivory damask gown and matching pelerine circa 1825, piped in cream satin, high V-shaped waist, full, puff sleeves, padded hem with rouleaux trimming and diamond applique satin bands, the pelerine and puff sleeves trimmed with blonde lace; together with an ivory satin bodice with large double-puff sleeves, pleats to bodice, trimmed in blonde lace, bust 20in, waist 24in; together with an image of Lady Monson, (4). Provenance: It is probably the wedding dress of Eliza nee Larker, who married William (later 6th Lord) Monson in London on May 8th 1828. She was the youngest daughter of Edmund Larker of Bedford Square, a successful `Hong Merchant`-he traded with the Chinese. William Monson`s father, Colonel the Honourable William Monson was in the army in India where he met and married Anne, the daughter of John Debonnaire, an East Indies merchant, whose forebears were `Hugneut` refugees. A serious scholar and academic, William took his bride to the family estates in Lincolnshire for their honeymoon, where they visited local parish churches, recording everything in meticulous fashion. William and Eliza were well-suited and the marriage was exceptionally happy and fruitful. In a letter to his eldest son-another William-the father advised his son to marry for love. The 6th Baron died in December 1862. His wife died a few weeks later in January 1863.
A lady`s riding habit, Irish, circa 1890, comprising heavily boned navy wool double breasted jacket, label removed but the skirt with `William Scott, 2 Lower Sackville St, Dublin`, "Miss Dundas", with tiny waist and full skirts; with faux waistcoat chemisette in checked wool, and shaped matching skirt, bust 81cm, 32in, waist 46cm, 18in, (2)
A pink satin Worth ball gown the label numbered for 1902 but construction circa 1913-18, the woven signature label stamped 57821 and applied to broad petersham waistband, with elaborate beaded and paste inset palmette which meanders from right shoulder to left front, broad silver bobbin lace trim, separate chiffon lace edged inner skirt, pointed train with arm-loop for dancing, bust 92cm, 36in, (2)
A rare Busvines Ltd beige wool riding habit, late 1920s-early 1930s, labelled `4 Brook St`, and with inked tab "Miss Birtonheath" comprising: long, slimline jacket, unlined the reverse fabric of red wool, part lined in silk; matching jodphurs with suede inside legs, bust 86cm, 34in, waist 71cm, 28in, (2)
A fine and rare Mariano Fortuny stencilled velvet gown, early 20th century, `labelled Mariano Fortuny, Venise`, the soft blue velvet ground stencilled in gold with Medieval style patterns, the sides inset with pleated silk and laced with silk cords and fastened with Murano glass beads, bust 91cm, 36in. Provenance for this and lot 94: Camilla Eibenschutz, the beautiful and talented wife of Dr Wolfgang Huck editor of some of the most influential newspapers during the Weimar Republic. She was a renowned German actress and was a role model for many women of her generation. She limited her career to the stage, performing mainly in productions by Max Reinhard (1873-1943). She performed in his 1907 production of Shakespeare`s Romeo & Juliet as Juliet (see image).
A rare Agnes/Madame Havet orientalist brocaded silk cocktail dress, circa 1925, labelled `Agnes, Madame Havet, 7 Rue Auber, Made in France`, the ming-style brocade in blue, orange and green highlighted in gold, the black satin pagoda sleeves, hem and collar with blue and gold embroidery, bust 101cm, 40in
A Lucien Lelong black satin dinner gown, model no 1404, 1926, un-labelled, the sleeves, rear bodice and tiered satin skirt adorned with long fringes, bust 92cm, 36in; together with a xeroxed copy of Lelong archive photographs of a near identical gown, taken from the Archives de Paris; it was also featured in Femina, September 1925, p.4, (3)
The court presentation gown worn by Marit Guinness in 1937 aged 18, of ivory satin applied overall with early 17th century English floral embroidered slips with coiling silver thread tendrils, including honeysuckle, borage, dog roses and pansies in coloured silks in detached buttonhole stitch, matching shoes and bertha and a Callot Soeurs pink silk petticoat, bust 86cm, 34in, (4). Marit was described as "gay and vivacious with deep chestnut coloured hair". The Sketch on May 20 1936 wrote "A two dance debutante, Miss Marit Guinness, the debutante daughter of Mrs H.S.H. Guinness is a very fortunate girl, as her mother is giving two dances for her this season.
A Jeanne Lanvin couture emerald green velvet evening coat, 1930s, labelled and numbered 2243, large black and gold woven label, shirred and ruched sleeves, scarf-tie collar, chest 106cm, 42in; together with an associated bias cut emerald green georgette gown and slip, bust approx 96cm, 38in, (3)
A Schiaparelli black wool evening jacket, Winter 1936-37, bearing printed white Schiaparelli, London label, of soft felted wool lavishly embroidered to the notched stand collar, pockets and front borders in metal strip and gold thread with palm trees and flowerheads, highlighted with sequins and seed beads, simple black silk covered buttons and loops to fasten, bust 86cm, 34in. cf `Shocking` by Dilys Blum p.163 for a full page illustration of an identical jacket which Marlene Dietrich purchased for 1000 francs. It was intended to be worn over a short black crepe dress and accessoried with a glycerined ostrich feather cone hat-"the perfect ensemble for an evening of dinner and the cinema or cocktails and caberet". Schiaparelli wore the same model to the premiere of the play Fric Frac starring the actress Arletty, who was also a client. The palm trees, a nod to Napoleaon`s native Corsica, were based on those embroidered on the white satin tunic of the emperor`s coronation costume.
A Paquin pleated ivory chiffon couture cocktail dress, Spring-Summer 1951, labelled, with buttons down the centre front over concealed zip, basque-like panels to the bodice, bust 86cm, 34in, waist 61cm, 24in; accompanied by a xerox fashion sketch of the chiffon gown taken from Femina p.54, March-April 1951. It also shows a horizontally ribbed silk coat similar to lot 127, (2)
A fine Christian Dior haute couture brown tulle evening gown "Esther" Profile Line, Autumn-Winter 1952, labelled and numbered 20764, and with client tag `Mrs Wanamaker`, and also with separate label `Tribout Shop, John Wanamaker`, the strapless boned bodice and full skirt applied with velvet roundels edged in sparkling gold bugle beads and tiny sequins, the roundels segment and enlarge as they descend the skirt interspesed with godets of vermicalar bugle beads, two tulle petticoats give fullness to the skirt which is mid-calf length for dancing, bust 86cm, 34in, waist 66cm, 26in. Dior`s Profile line in the Autumn of 1952 was as the name suggested a collection of quite sharp and distinct silhouettes that hugged the body and emphasised the hips. It was sober but sexy as Dior edited out what he called "fashion fripperies" and black and brown were repeated throughout the collection. Many of the day and evening gowns used bare skin for maximum impact with strapless bodices or daring decolletage. The velvet adornments and beading on this "Esther" gown are cleverly graduated to emphasise the curve of the breasts to the narrow waist above the full skirt which served to empasise the hips. Vogue reported that Dior`s preferred hem-length was about 11 1/2in from the ground-and they helpfully suggested that the height of the magazine could be used as a measure. The fact that the gown shows both a retail and a couture label suggests that the couture dress was probably sold by Dior under licence to the US so that it could be copied. The original couture gowns were often re-exported across the Canadian border so that the duties paid upon import to the US could be reclaimed and then sold onto a department store or deluxe dress establishment. The Mrs Wanamaker written on the muslin tag was presumably the wife of the retailer.
A Pierre Balmain couture embroidered black satin cocktail gown, Autumn-Winter 1959, labelled and numbered 85188, the satin by Leonard, the embroidery by Lesage, with high neckline, low, square back, adorned overall with pale blue beads, silver raffia, pearls and crystals with periwinkles, shells and delicate scrolling foliage, bust 86cm, 34in, waist 61cm, 24in. See `Femme Chic` issue 480 p. 83 for a gown from the same collection.
A fine Christian Dior couture russet-brown wool coat, Autumn-Winter 1952, labelled and numbered 22886, fastened with six domed leather covered buttons, narrow waist and full skirts with deep pockets inset to the curved hips, lined in peach satin, bust 86cm, 34in, with matching peach satin scarf, (2)
A Balenciaga couture black moss crepe dinner dress with hood, circa 1956-8, labelled and numbered 56439, the bodice falling in gentle draped folds, fichu-like hood to the rear, worn over waist slip with moss crepe hem to form a double layer, bust 86cm, 34in, (2). Provenance: Lucy Ferry collection
An Yves Saint Laurent couture lime and gold brocatelle cocktail ensemble, Autumn-Winter 1962, labelled and numbered 01634, comprising: simple shift cocktail dress fastening over one shoulder, adorned with Lesage embroidery and pendant droplet rhinestones and bugle beads to bodice and hem, the matching coat with jewelled buttons, bust 86cm, 34in, (2)
A Bohan for Dior couture black organza cocktail gown and matching coat, `Nightclub`, Spring-Summer 1962, labelled and numbered 114125, the boned inner bodice with sweet-heart neckline, the over-dress with flounced tiers and bow to front, with diaphanous organza coat, bust 86cm, 34in, waist 66cm, 26in. (2). Provenance: the late SAR Princess Lilian of Belgium
A dramatic black guipure couture ball gown, with Pierre Balmain label, circa 1955-7, woven black on ivory satin Paris label, pencilled number tag on reverse is illegible, with high-waisted, boned strapless bodice over full skirt-the large-scale black floral designs outlined in chenille over layered tulle petticoats dyed primrose yellow to deep rose pink, bust 86cm, 34in, waist 61cm, 24in
An Yves Saint Laurent couture cloth of gold ensemble, Russian Collection Autumn-Winter 1976-77, the blouse labelled and numbered 39875, the Abrahams gold-silk fabric woven with leaves, comprising: blouse with full sleeves, pleated skirt, belt adorned with small feathers and matching collar with pendant beads, bust 86-92cm, 34-36in, waist 66cm, 26in, (4)
An Yves Saint Laurent couture evening ensemble, Russian collection, Autumn-Winter 1976-77, the skirt labelled and numbered 40003, comprising cream nun`s veiling peasant style blouse embroidered in purple, green, blue wool and gold thread; a blue wool and black velvet knee length skirt; a blue wool and black braid belt; and a green and purple silk choker interwoven with golden chains, bust approx 86cm, 34in, waist 61cm, 24in, (4)
Three Saint Laurent/Dior evening gowns and accessories, late 1960s-early 1970s, all unlabelled, comprising Saint Laurent vibrant paisley printed chiffon blouse, with alternative bodice, matching scarf and belt; St Laurent printed chiffon and gold brocaded gown with ostrich trimmed shawl and silver Vivier shoes; Dior brown printed chiffon gown with petticoat, scarf, shoes by Jourdan, average size bust 86cm, 34in (qty)
A Bill Gibb printed plush and snakeskin ensemble, Autumn-Winter collection 1972, labelled London, size 12, comprising: jacket with fox fur collar, the hide or bark-effect plush jacket and midi-skirt edged and appliqued with reptiles in cream watersnake (lycodonomorphus rufulus), lined in grey satin, bust 92cm, 36in, waist 66cm, 26in; together with an image of Meg Wynn Owen wearing an almost identical ensemble in 1972, (3). cf Bill Gibb, `Fashion & Fantasy` by Iain R Webb p.115
Yves Saint Laurent couture, 1970s, comprising: red silk jersey cocktail dress with pleated skirt, no 34819; a grey gaberdine day dress with leather belt no 35989; navy wool tunic and trousers, no 34815; navy and white printed silk tunic and trousers no 38730, average size bust 86cm, 34in (6). Provenance: the late SAR Princess Lilian of Belgium
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