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Lot 181
A desk blotter, with an applied silver front, 29.5cm high, London 1988, a bronze bust of Marshal Foch, by Elkington & Co. 10cm high, and a bronze figure of a boy, 10cm high, a mother of pearl shell, 20cm, a mother of pearl knife with a white metal mount, 12.5cm, and a mother of pearl spoon with a white metal handle, 12cm
Lot 101
A rare Elsa Schiaparelli couture military inspired evening coat, 1935, Schiaparelli London label, numbered 26519, of heavy red twill 'Rouge Gaulois' wool by Ducharne, the triangular front yoke with six pendant gilt curleque buttons, designed by Jean Cocteau, with unfinished, top-stitched seams, half lined in red silk, bust 86cm, 34in The wool used in this coat is redolent of British Horse Guards uniforms. The stiffness of the fabric emphasises the severe, clean lines of the tailoring.Provenance: Margaret Allsopp, a beautiful Canadian socialite who lived in London and thence by family descent.See 'Elsa Schiaparelli: Empress of Paris Fashion' by Palmer White pp98-99, for a reproduction of a Christian Berard sketch of the coat which is accessorised by fingernail gloves, face-mask fan and a snood.See 'Shocking!' by Dilys Blum pp101-2 for illustrations of this model.The Metropolitan Museum has an identical coat, accession no 2009.300.2625. CONDITION REPORT: Exterior is fresh and good, nice even colour. Very, very slight soiling to hem edge (minor). Buttons are good. Coat is half lined in silk. Lining has split and perished generally - mainly centre back fold area, underarms and cuffs. Overall the piece is good condition
Lot 103
A bias-cut beaded sea-foam green chiffon evening dress, circa 1929-30, with zig-zag seams to waist, adorned with silver bugle beads forming graduated roundels, bust 86cm, 34in CONDITION REPORT: Repairs at shoulders, hem has been re-rolled and finished, armholes deepened. Side seam returns have been tacked over to give extra support to the beads. Small hole in chiffon at base of side closure. Small hole in chiffon near hem right side (minor). Faint brown stain front right of skirt. Some of the bias skirt seams are re-sewn in places. Original finish is haute couture.
Lot 104
A fine couture bridal gown and train, probably Madame Handley-Seymour (court dressmaker), 1937, un-labelled, of bias cut oyster slipper-satin, with overdress of embroidered ivory lace further adorned with silver bugle beads and 'seed pearls', the draped sleeves open at the shoulders, with matching belt and similarly adorned 308cm, 10ft 3in train, bust approx 86cm, 34in; together with copies of newspaper clippings recording the event (qty)Provenance: worn by Miss Gundred Cunliffe (niece of Sir John Aird, equerry to the Duke of Windsor, who walker her down the aisle), 24th July 1937 upon her marriage to Mr Mervyn Charles Fraser. They spent their honeymoon motoring on the Continent. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition. Dress has been taken in down both side seams. Train is good condition, no problems.
Lot 106
A Philippe & Gaston couture deep coral silk velvet evening coat, circa 1930, large woven label numbered 27997, with full, gathered upper sleeves that give the impression of a capelet, stiffened rear collar so it can be worn high or low, gathered shawl collar, edged in smocked velvet bands, bust 86cm, 34in
Lot 108
A Callot Soeurs couture blonde and black lace evening gown, early 1930s, with ivory ribbon 'Nouvelle Marque, Paris' label, the integral black satin bias cut underslip overlaid with spiralling tiers of black tulle inset with blonde bobbin lace, large velvet corsage to waist, bust 81cm, 32in CONDITION REPORT: Generally good condition, a few small holes to the tulle on the right shoulder strap, a few small scattered repairs and the occasional small hole to the black tulle ground generally - but nothing immediately noticeable or serious. A large panel of matching black tulle has been inserted at the left hip (front and back) which is not immediately noticeable. It is extremely well done - just a shade or two darker than the rest of the dress. The lower hem flounce would have had an additional finer black tulle lining which is largely missing. However, this does not affect the overall aesthetic of the dress. 13cm horizontal repair in tulle at left underarm/breast area. One strap, underarms, and left closure panel have been backed in finer tulle to strengthen, I think this is original
Lot 109
An Elsa Schiaparelli couture embroidered midnight-blue velvet evening jacket, Autumn-Winter, 1937-38, Paris label with date, richly embroidered by Lesage with gilt strip, gilt cord and sequins, blue and pink rhinestones, with three turquoise tinted metal star-burst 'buttons' with brass closure hooks, discreet pocket vents inserted at the hips, small shoulder pads, lined in blue silk, bust 86cm, 34inProvenance: Stella, Lady EatonSee 'Shocking' Schiaparelli by Dilys Blum pp166-7 for a full-page photograph of Lady Clark of Saltwood wearing a similar jacket in burgundy velvet in 1939 at the opening of the Modern Art Museum in New York. CONDITION REPORT: Rear left armhole seam has been crudely re-sewn. Velvet is rubbed at the elbows. Faint soil spots in the velvet down the centre back when held up against the light. Velvet is slightly crushed at the underarms. Overall the appearance is good. Embroidery and beading is generally intact and good. Lining needs re-stitching at left and right underarms. Front right panel: pink rhinestone missing where embroidery band meets the hem. Two more at neck edge above starburst button, another from 'grass' front on shoulder area. One missing from top of left neck edge and three from rear neck edge. A blue stone missing from floret to left of bottom button. Eight further blue stones missing from flowerheads scattered across the panel - not immediately noticeable. Blue stain is slightly rubbed on lower button. Front left panel: missing 13 pink stones and 10 blue scattered across the jacket. Label has splits. Soiling to lining to neck edge and slightly at underarms.
Lot 111
A Madame Grès ivory silk jersey dinner dress, late 1940s, unlabelled but with numbered tape '2405 871', the bodice with complex vertical and horizontal folds to frame the chest, the skirt falling in two vertical pleated panels below, bust 92cm, 36in, waist 71cm, 28in CONDITION REPORT: Poor condition, numerous moth holes mainly concentrated down the left side on the shoulder and sleeve, bodice and skirt. Very soiled appearance, in need of cleaning
Lot 113
A midnight-blue velvet evening jacket, probably Schiaparelli London, Autumn-Winter, 1938, unlabelled, embroidered in gilt strip and wire, with deep pink and clear beads, with gold and blue sequin detailing, fastened by simple concealed hooks and eyes, lined in blue silk crêpe de chine, bust 92cm, 36in The velvet on this jacket was embroidered to shape but, unlike the Paris version with scalloped front edges, the closure line does not follow the embroidery but is straight. It is fastened by a series of small hooks and eyes - the loops bear the remains of blue silk buttonhole stitched covers (something Schiap often did). The embroidery on this jacket is similar but not identical to the Paris haute couture version, lot 109. On the Paris version the metal strip is horizontal and regular but on this version the strip follows the shape of the leaf forms. A Schiaparelli London burgundy velvet ensemble in the Victoria & Albert Museum, acc.no T398&A-1974, of identical design has a more free style of embroidery like this one.Schiaparelli London often adapted the Paris models for a perhaps more conservative British clientele. It is possible that the client did not want the eye-catching star shaped medallions down the front, or the bulk of small pockets or shoulder pads that the Paris example has. CONDITION REPORT: Split along seam on inside elbow area of right arm,Two bad cross shaped splits and repairs on elbow and inside elbow area of left sleeve approx 7 x 3 and 7 x 5cm; 8cm split and repair to top of rear right sleeve, 2.5 and 3cm splits along centre left and right back seams, 3cm and 2cm repaired splits at rear neck edge; velvet on inside neck edge is worn; silk crepe de chine lining is very soiled; numerous spots/stains to back panels, beadwork and embroidery is generally good. The velvet was embroidered to shape but unlike the Paris version with scalloped front edge - this one does not follow the embroidery lines and is straight. It is fastened by a series of small hooks and eyes - the loops have remains of blue silk buttonhole stitched covers (something Schiap often did). There should be three hooks and eyes at the lower waist area, some are missing and the velvet here is worn and frayed
Lot 114
A rare Premet couture printed silk crêpe ensemble, circa 1940, labelled, the jacket with ruched gathers to the massive padded shoulders and patch pockets; the matching skirt with woven satin '8 Place Vendome' waistband, with pleats to side hem, bust 92cm, 36in, waist 61cm, 24in (2)French couture pieces made during the war in occupied Paris are extremely scarce. CONDITION REPORT: Wonderful exaggerated shoulders on this. Faint perspiration mark at left underarm which is obscured by the busy pattern and light soiling generally (especially left shoulder area). Would benefit from dry cleaning. Shoulder pads are stained. Skirt with damp stains on waistband. Overview - good condition, needs cleaning, great wartime silhouette.
Lot 117
A Pierre Balmain couture silk-wool finely checked suit, circa 1955, large black satin label, indistinctly numbered, the presstud fastened jacket with leather 'buttons', shallow hip pockets, bracelet length sleeves, lead weight to hem; with full box-pleated skirt threaded through with leather band and buckle to rear, bust 92cm, 36in, waist 66cm, 26in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Good condition but skirt hem has been raised by 3cm
Lot 119
A Christian Dior London ivory faille ball gown, late 1950s, labelled and numbered 12943, size 12, with bow to cross-over bodice panels, full skirt, integral tulle corset and layered petticoats, bust 86-92cm, 34-36in CONDITION REPORT: 2 faint brown droplet stains and 3 larger stains in lower part of skirt front but these are faint and very hard to see and photograph. Interior is clean and good.
Lot 120
A Madame Grès couture knitted cream wool jersey day dress, 1984, unlabelled but with defilé tape handwritten 'no 144, At.Christine Vicky', with pleats falling from the shoulders and curving over the hips to form pockets, bust 86-92cm, waist 66cm, 26in Provenance: from the Madame Grès archive, purchased privately in the 1980s. CONDITION REPORT: moth hole to front right pleated band , front hem return, and approx 6 more to rear skirt above hem and another to rear right shoulder
Lot 124
A Jacques Fath couture navy wool day suit, circa 1950, labelled to the jacket, with white organza neckline edging with bow, ruched side panels with double row of buttons; the skirt with similar button adornments and concealed zip, bust 92cm, 36in, waist 71cm, 28in (2) CONDITION REPORT: scattering of moth damage and tiny darned repairs to the jacket - mainly around the right armhole and sleeve top area. The large label is in a strange place - the rear neck. The internal finishes are couture so it may have been moved from the skirt?
Lot 128
An early Givenchy couture printed silk afternoon ensemble, 1953, labelled 'Hubert de Givenchy Paris' comprising: dress and short-sleeved over-bodice with overall bubble print in shades of gold, the dress with plain bodice and shoulder straps, the skirt with pleats of goffered silks forming a front V, the over bodice with rear buttons, dress bust 92cm, 36in, waist 56cm, 22in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Over-bodice is un-altered. Dress bodice and waist, hem have been heavily altered. Fabric is good condition. Strap positions have been moved. 4cm split along edge of left underarm. Hem has been raised, there is a 7cm return. Small 1cm split in fabric edge of zip.
Lot 129
A fine Christian Dior haute couture ball gown, 'Romance', Spring-Summer, 1956, 'Fleche/Arrow' line, labelled and indistinctly numbered, the sheer white organdy ground covered in a shimmering lattice of blown white glass spherical beads and bugle beads, with scalloped lace effect patterned bands, integral corset and layered white tulle petticoats, bust 91cm, 36in, waist 65cm, 25 1/2in Provenance: A noble German family. For an illustration of the shorter dance version of this dress see 'Dior: 60 Years of Style', by Chenoune, pp78-79 and 'Hommage a Christian Dior', Musée des Arts de la Mode catalogue p195. CONDITION REPORT: Generally good condition, has been professionally cleaned so appearance is pristine. Minor bead losses - but nothing immediately noticeable - some beads have been replaced but hard to say which. Slight soiling at base of zip closure edge - minor. Small repair in organza at top of zip closure. Small frayed area near right upper edge of organza on bodice (minor). 3 tulle petticoat layers have been replaced.
Lot 130
A Christian Dior couture chestnut brown silk faille cocktail dress, 'Aimant' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1956, labelled and numbered 83834, with cross-over panels to front bodice broad waistband over classic five-pleated skirt, integral black tulle waist cincher, and tulle petticoats, bust 92-97cm, 36-38in, waist 81cm, 32in A similar gown was sold as part of the S.A.R Princess Lilian of Belgium collection, Sotheby's 19.5.2003 as lot 70 for £5500. A long sleeved version of this dress is pictured in 'L'Officiel de la mode', n°417-418, 1956, p.126 CONDITION REPORT: First impression is good. Perspiration stains at underarms, pin pricks in silk on belt where a brooch was fastened, fading in patches over left shoulder and left bodice side, and in places mainly over front of skirt. Because of the high sheen of the fabric, in some lights it is not immediately noticeable. Two small grease spots to lower front of skirt which are not immediately obvious. Two lines of puckering to fabric at left hip, again not immediately obvious. Some discolouration to edge of interior petticoat hem (minor) and slight wear to organza edge of rear waist opening. Bodice darts have been taken in generally, waist has been slightly adjusted, centre back skirt seam has been taken in approx. 3cm below the zip closure.
Lot 131
A Pauline Trigère black faille cocktail dress of interesting construction, late 1950s, labelled, with floating panel to back with neck ties rising from the hem forming a cape, the front with similar panel caught at the waist and forming a draped hem, bust 86cm, 34in CONDITION REPORT: Slight internal alterations (slightly taken in at left underarm), strap needs re-stitching, neck edge needs re-stitching. Silk faille is fresh and clean.
Lot 134
A Maggy Rouff ivory satin dance/bridal gown, mid 1950s, labelled, of rayon satin, adorned with soutache braid and rhinestones, bust 86cm, 34in, waist 71cm, 28in CONDITION REPORT: First impression is good - braid and rhinestones good and fresh with occasional losses but none obvious. Scattering of light brown stains down left side of skirt, the largest 10x3cm at hem. These are largely hidden by folds of the skirt. Faint perspiration stain at right underarm edge, not immediately obvious. Interior is fresh and good.
Lot 135
A Jacques Heim ice-blue satin ball gown, mid 1950s, labelled, with boned, lightly padded bodice, bias cut skirt and side panels, trained hem, with separate notched wrap around stole with waist belt, bust approx 81cm, 32in, waist 57cm, 22 1/2in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, zip needs re-stitching, very fresh appearance generally
Lot 138
A Jacques Heim grey wool day ensemble, circa 1950, labelled, the fitted dress and jacket with interesting pocket details, bust 86-92cm, 34-36in, waist 64cm, 25in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Perspiration stains to dress lining only, small darn at seam point at right underarm on dress, otherwise good conditon
Lot 139
A fine Mila Schön couture silver beaded and white tulle evening dress, circa 1966, labelled, of white tulle over ivory silk, covered with shimmering Swarovski crystal and bugle beaded snowflake-like roundels, bust 81-86cm, 32-34inMila Schön gained international recognition when two of her white and silver dresses were worn at Truman Capote's Black and White Ball in November, 1966, by Marella Agnelli and Lee Radziwell, who were voted first and third best-dressed women respectively. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, the tulle is slightly snagged in places, minor losses of beadwork which are not immediately noticeable. Very faint perspiration marks at underarm edges. 2 small brown stains to front left midriff and lower left skirt area.
Lot 141
A Pierre Balmain couture black velvet evening gown 'Nemesis', early 1960s, with defilé waist tape stamped 'Eva 431 Nemesis, Genevieve, Pierre Balmain', empire line with columnar skirt, cross over chiffon bodice panels, the sleeves with organza cuffs laden with rouleaux fringes and petals, bust 81cm, 32in CONDITION REPORT: Overall good condition, light soiling needs cleaning, small split in chiffon at left underarm along seam which is easily repairable. Sleeves are fabulous!
Lot 143
A Balenciaga couture black moss crêpe dinner dress, Autumn-Winter, 1960-61, Paris labelled and numbered 73338, bias cut with seams which follow the curve of the hip and bust, fastening down left side concealed by bows, scarf-like train falling from the left shoulder, bust 86cm, 34in CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, very fresh. A pleat of the scarf needs re-stitching and small L-shaped knick on shoulder area of stole. Small hole to left of waist closure where the inner corset has pulled against the godet point. Hem needs re-stitching in places (minor).
Lot 144
An Yves Saint Laurent couture white organdie dress, Spring-Summer, 1970, labelled and numbered 24277, the skirt falling in three tiers, appliquéd overall with white cotton blossom, bust 81cm, 32in CONDITION REPORT: Slight perspiration staining at underarm edges, faint brown stains to midriff area, skirt has been shortened by moving upwards and restitching the two lower skirt tiers
Lot 145
A Christian Dior couture pink gazar evening gown, circa 1965, labelled and numbered but with the year cut out, of streamlined princess-line with halterneck straps that slot through tabs at the bodice edge, bust 81cm, 32in CONDITION REPORT: Hem has been raised but not cut, perspiration stains at bodice underarm edges, and halterneck strap is frayed. Slight soiling to corset mesh. Pink silk is generally good, tiny rust spot on bodice.
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110054 item(s)/page