A Paquin couture richly embroidered evening dress, 1937-8, small black on white satin label, 3 Rue de la Paix Paris, no 60447, the front bodice applied with Indian inspired embroidered and velvet appliqué panels worked with peacocks and blooms, on a silver sequin spangled ground, cartridge pleats to the waist, bust 86cm, 34in CONDITION REPORT: Diamond-shaped godet inserted into rear centre back with fabric removed from hem return, but it is couture standard and looks contemporary with the making of the coat, so probably an alteration commissioned by the original owner. Couple of tiny moth holes to skirt front and left sleeve but barely noticeable. Embroidery is generally good, a few sequins missing from cartridge pleats at waist but not immediately noticeable. Hem has been raised 3cm.
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A black bugle beaded chiffon evening dress, circa 1930, vertically beaded in leopard-spot effect, bias-cut, gored flared skirt, bust approx 81cm, 32in CONDITION REPORT: Repair to centre front point of skirt godet and two repairs to a hip seam, small repair rear neck edge. Brown discolouration to ground surrounding beads at rear hem, some of the beading threads have also discoloured to brown. Couture finished.
An Yves Saint Laurent for Christian Dior couture embroidered cocktail dress, Autumn-Winter, 1958, labelled and indistinctly numbered, with integral boned corset, cap sleeves, the pale pink tulle ground embroidered by Rébé in high relief with pink metallic silver thread coiling roses and foliage and spangled with rhinestones, with matching embroidered belt, layered organza, tulle and silk petticoats, bust 76cm, 30in, waist 51cm, 20in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Overall good condition. Rébé embroidery is generally good. Slight seam pull at underarms (minor), slight soiling to cuff edges, pink organza corset cover has worn at breast tips. The silk petticoat has perished at the rear hem and the rear petticoat seam has been re-sewn (minor). Slight wear to tulle at front left waist. An organza petticoat layer shows signs of being raised and lowered. In my opinion the skirt is at the original level - though it is hard to be certain as the tulle skirt is raw-edged. There is a repair to the tulle at the base of the rear closure (minor). Belt - lining is soiled, top side embroidery is fresh and good.
A Madame Grès couture dark green jersey dress, 1950s, labelled, with pleated lengths draped over the shoulders, falling to the front and back, drawstring waist and fully lined, bust approx 92cm, 36in CONDITION REPORT: Good condition. Faint perspiration stains to lining in places, mainly across bodice, minor, hard to see, not visible to exterior. Jersey is good, no problems.
A couture/defilé cocktail dress, 1955-56, possibly Fath, with handwritten tape 'Colette, no 455', with velvet boned, strapless bodice and centre panel lavishly embroidered in gilt threads and jet beads with tiered, bouffant taffeta skirt panels, bust approx 86cm, 34in CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, wonderful embroidery and beading with no obvious losses, velvet is deep and rich in tone. Skirt flounces are a bit dusty.
A Balenciaga black silk crêpe double-breasted dinner dress, 1942, white on black Eisa label, with apron-like overskirt which falls in drapes at the sides which form a peplum at the back, fastened by hooks and eyes, bust 92cm, 36in, waist 71cm, 28in CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, nice clean fabric. 2 darts have been let out over rear bodice and both bodice side seams taken slightly in. Zip has been replaced. One button is slightly smaller - has been replaced but not noticeable as below lapel.
A Madame Grès couture dove-grey silk jersey dinner dress, late 1940s, black on white label, with draped pleats to neck, sleeves and curving over the hips, rear hook and eye fastening, bust approx 81cm, 32in, waist 56cm, 22in CONDITION REPORT: Fading, but not immediately noticeable, a few small pinhead holes to the rear skirt. Chiffon bodice lining needs re-stitching at edges at centre front neck and centre front waist (minor).
A Molyneux couture lilac satin ballgown, early 1950s, labelled and numbered 16548, and with handwritten label bearing the name 'Hon. Mrs. Waite', embellished with opalescent sequins, pearls and rhinestones to bodice and hips, sweetheart neckline, bust approx 96cm, 38in CONDITION REPORT: Shoulder straps need re-stitching at rear. Discolouration to satin in places and along hem. Beading is good.
A Christian Dior by Yves Saint Laurent couture pink faille cocktail dress, 1960, white on black woven label, no 13105, with fitted bodice with centre-front rose, puff-ball skirt over hobble hem, integral silk petticoat, bust 86cm, 34in CONDITION REPORT: Perspiration stains at underarms. Pin-holes in silk on straps where brooches or corsages were attached (minor). Waist seam needs re-stitching in places (minor). Apart from the perspiration stains the silk and colour are good. Very, very slight soiling on hem edge (minor). 2 small brown stains above left hem area on skirt. Couple of small grime marks to rear of skirt. Interior generally fresh and good.
A fine couture black satin evening gown, circa 1954, un-labelled, with dramatic puff-ball fishtail hem, lightly boned interior corset, bust approx 92cm, 36in CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, slight soiling to bodice interior, slight soiling to hem edge but would clean. Lining needs re-stitching at zip.
An Hubert de Givenchy couture black satin cocktail dress, 1954, early white on black woven label, with pleats to bodice and skirt adorned with graduated rows of satin buttons with faux buttonholes, bust 92cm, 36in, waist 61cm, 24inSee 1954 advertisement showing an identical black gown, modelled by Bettina, stating the fabric was made by Robert Perrier. CONDITION REPORT: two of the bones have been removed from the bodice - presumably for comfort. Hem has been shortened, one of the bone tips is exposed.
A Christian Dior London black silk faille dress, 1954-1955, labelled and numbered 02838, the double-breasted bodice with interior corset and shawl collar which wraps around at buttons at front, separate pleated full skirt with interior petticoat, waist approx 61cm, 24in, bust approx 96cm, 38in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Bodice is lacking one button and there is one button attached to shawl collar. Soiling to interior neck edge and underarms of bodice. End of collar drape needs re-stitching. Sections of skirt hem have come un-stitched, minor. Skirt has been folded and tacked at 3 places, approx 1in each, to make the waist smaller, easily un-picked. Label to bodice only. Otherwise good.
A Lanvin-Castillo couture ivory satin cocktail dress, circa 1960, labelled, the bodice heavily embellished with facetted beaded droplets and black feathers encased between two layers of tulle, bust approx 86cm, 34in CONDITION REPORT: Good condition. Some light scuffing to satin of skirt and faint perspiration stains at underarms of interior under-bodice- not visible to exterior. Hem has been shortened and possibly taken in at bodice edge, although this is expertly done.
A Balenciaga couture pink slubbed satin evening gown, Spring-Summer, 1961, Eisa labelled, the bias-cut front bodice panels forming a point, the rear sack-back draped and held in a bow above the trained hem, bust approx 92cm, 36in CONDITION REPORT: Silk has perished at both underarms and been re-backed with conservation net. Rear hem is soiled generally. Faint large yellow watermark above centre back skirt hem. Grease spots below right breast and midriff. Slight soiling at inside collar edge, would benefit from cleaning. Watermarks clustered around the hem but faint watermarks over front of skirt generally - only noticeable upon close inspection. Silk lining has been let out on bodice at rear zip closure and waistline on slip has been lowered. Slight perspiration stains at underarms on silk crepe de chine lining. Silk hem lining has been raised 2.5cm. Slip centre back seam below zip needs re-stitching 10cm (minor). Hem on dress has been raised at the sides and back to make it slightly less trained. The colour and shape are wonderful and when displayed on a mannequin the defects are not hugely noticeable.
A Lanvin couture pleated red silk chiffon evening gown 'Barbarella', late 1970s, bearing woven label with angular JL script, hand-written defilé label '520256, At. Colette', with spaghetti straps, falling in three tiers, bust 81cm, 32in CONDITION REPORT: Overall good condition, colour is good. Straps are slightly frayed. A couple of very small spot stains to edge of first front frill (minor, very hard to see). A few soil marks/ stains to hem, not obvious when worn. One small pinhead sized hole to rear hem. Hole/tear to chiffon in third rear left tier, covered by other layers, approx. 5x2cm. Faint soiling along inner edge of bodice.
A rare Germana Marucelli sequined evening gown 'Totem' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1967-68, the design based on a Futurist painting by Maestro Marinetti, bust 86-92cm, 34-36in Exhibitied: 'Bellisima, Italy and High Fashion, 1945-68', NSU Museum Fort Lauderdale, Florida and in Palazzo Reale Monza. This dress is illustrated on p23 of the catalogue.Germana Marucelli (1905-1983) was one of the pioneers of Italian fashion. In 1938 she opened her own fashion house and in 1958 she became one of the founders of the Camera Dindacale della Modal Italiana. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition. Has been taken in at side seams. Approx 0.5cm strand of sequins has come detached at rear right shoulder (minor).
A Valentino couture bugle beaded 20s inspired cocktail dress, late 1970s, labelled, with pink-beige floral beading against an ivory bugle beaded ground, bust 97cm, 38in CONDITION REPORT: Good condition. Perspiration stains at underarms and neck edge, lining only, not visible to exterior. Beading is good.
An Yves Saint Laurent couture ivory jersey ensemble, early 1970s, labelled and numbered 23912, comprising sleeveless jump-suit with wide trouser legs; the matching jacket with white cord frogging closure, bust 97cm, 38in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Slight soiling to neck edge of jumpsuit, minor. Good condition.
A Christian Dior by Yves Saint Laurent colour-block bouclé wool shift dress, Autumn-Winter, 1959, labelled and numbered 102530, with slightly raised waistline, lined in corresponding red and black silk, bust 92cm, 36in CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, very fresh. 2cm split in red silk bodice lining at waist closure (minor). Very slight soiling to lining on chest area (minor).
An Yves Saint Laurent couture orientalist evening ensemble, 1970, un-labelled, woven in blue and gold 1920s inspired brocade, edged and piped in gold braid, the jacket with gilt scallop-shaped buttons and closure loops, with matching harem pants, bust 86cm, 34in, waist 66cm, 26in (2)See 'Yves Saint Laurent' Thames & Hudson, 1983 Metropolitan Museum catalogue p.141 for a full page photograph of this ensemble taken from Harpers Bazaar, September 1970. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, slight soiling to lining at neck lining (minor). Very slight perspiration stains at underarms on lining, exterior is good.
A Thea Porter floral printed voile 'gypsy' dress, 1969, woven black on white label, the bodice with plunging neckline and trimmed with gold velvet, bust 86cm, 34in, waist 71cm, 28in A black and white photograph of an identical dress in 1969 can be seen in 'Thea Porter: Bohemian Chic', by Laura McLaws Helms and Venetia Porter, p.68. CONDITION REPORT: Small area of moth damage to lower rear skirt- largest hole 1cm diameter. Tiny pinhead sized hole to front left of waist. 1.5cm split to cotton at V-front of bodice along seam edge of velvet trim, minor and easily repaired. Light brown stains and extremely faint perspiration stains at underarms to sleeves. Not immediately obvious. Otherwise good.
A Thea Porter black chiffon dress, early 1970s, Couture labelled, with silver glitter bands overall, the shoulders and waist with silver sequined and embroidered scallop shells, the hem with glitter rose motifs, bust 86cm, 34in CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, very fresh, looks little worn. Very faint perspiration stains at underarms, not obvious. Approx 4cm tear to rear hem where a heel has caught through chiffon and lining below, easily repaired. Soiling to rear seat lining, would benefit from cleaning.
A good Thea Porter 'gypsy' dress, 1969-71, woven lily label and size 10, of floral printed black and red voile, trimmed with gold braid and key-hole neckline, bust 76cm, 30in, waist 61cm, 24inAn identical dress was exhibited in 'Thea Porter: Bohemian Chic', a retrospective of her work at the Fashion and Textile Museum, London, 6th February-3rd May 2015. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition. A small circle of cotton fabric has been taken from interior left back bodice seam allowance to use as as modesty insert and then un-picked.
A Chanel couture evening ensemble, 1972, labelled and numbered 45170, the shift dress of cream organza over ivory silk entirely covered in embroidered and beaded roundels, with floret centres formed from heart-shaped sequins, the matching jacket with chain weighted hem, dress bust 81-86cm, 32-34in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Jacket: re-lined in beige silk but very well done, exterior is good, no obvious embroidery losses apart from a small bare patch under left armhole. Dress: lined in ivory crepe de chine which is soiled around neck edge and shoulder straps, hem has been let down on dress.
A Chanel haute couture ivory silk crêpe dress, 1975, un-labelled, with box-pleat and top-stitch detailing, tie to neck, bust approx 92cm, 36inAn identical dress can be seen pictured in 'L'Officiel de la Mode', no. 618 1975. CONDITION REPORT: Faint perspiration stains at underarms, not immediately obvious. Lacking cufflinks. One pleat at right front near underarm has come un-stitched approx 4cm length, minor. Otherwise good.
A Chanel couture red printed wool/silk blend ensemble, 1975, label and blank bolduc to jacket, comprising knife-pleated skirt; matching jacket with scored resin and gilt encased buttons, bust 86cm, 34in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Jacket: discolouration from perspiration to interior silk lining of jacket at underarms and across back bodice/label. Patched repairs at rear left and right armholes. Perspiration stains at underarms on exterior also. Chip to black enamel on bottom button. Small moth hole to front right peplum pleats on jacket. Lacking detachable collar and cuffs. Skirt: Lining is opened up and torn along seam lines. Darned repair to waistband closure. Waistband lining needs re-stitching in places. Slight fraying at base and top of zipper. Exterior colours are good and fresh.
A Courrèges black knitted jersey dress, early 1970s, Hyperbole labelled and numbered 108293, size B, the apron-like front panel with two pockets and decorative poppers, vinyl Courrèges logo to bodice centre, bust 92cm, 36in CONDITION REPORT: Good condition. Interior lining is slightly soiled along neck edge and is slightly yellowed in places.
An Ossie Clark/Celia Birtwell 'Acapulco Gold' chiffon dress, 1970, labelled and size 12, in 'Golden Slumbers' print, wrap-around style with plunging neckline and fluted sleeves printed with tiny flowers/stars, bust approx 86cm, 34inFor an identical example see Kerry Taylor Auctions, 9th December 2014 sale, lot 141. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition. Three small pinhead sized holes near hem of skirt.
An early Thierry Mugler lamé evening gown, 1979, labelled and size 44, the lightly padded shoulders and long narrow sleeves with fin-like details the figure-skimming skirt with long train, bust approx 97cm, 38in, waist 76cm, 30in The jump-suit version of this design is photographed in 'L'Officiel de la Mode', n°649, 1979, p.186. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, no problems, very fresh
A rare Westwood/McLaren 'Nostalgia of Mud, Buffalo' collection printed knitted dress, Autumn-Winter, 1982-83, World's End labelled, with cable-knit yoke and sleeves, the skirt with trained rear hem printed with repeats of dancing 'Buffalo' girls and tribal figures in masks, with cable knit edges, bust approx 112cm, 44inThis was worn by a man (the vendor) as the clothes were intended to be uni-sex. See 'Vivienne Westwood' V&A publications p61 for an advertisement photograph taken at the time showing a similar dress. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, light bobbling to chunky wool knit
A rare Westwood/McLaren white cotton 'Mauvaise' empire-style dress, 'Pirate' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1981-82, World's End but un-labelled, with button fastenings to the high bodice sides, ties to rear waist, long trained skirt, bust approx 81cm, 32in Provenance: this was bought by the vendor at a Westwood sample sale in the early 1980s for £5 and never worn as it did not fit her.From a construction standpoint this dress is a fairly accurate copy of a dress c.1800 with its high narrow bodice and long trained skirt. Westwood researched antique dress in the Victoria & Albert museum and this dress reflects that. The very early 'Mauvaise' dresses were un-labelled as is this one. In the catwalk show it was accessorised with a golden helmet and a green stole. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, very fresh. Tiny light brown spot mark to rear right shoulder and very faint light brown stain to bodice tie (minor).
A Westwood/McLaren 'Smiley face' knitted cotton top, 'Witches' collection, Autumn-Winter 1983-84, World's End label, with angular short sleeves and fluorescent pink Keith Haring designed repeats, bust approx 81cm, 32in CONDITION REPORT: Good condition. Hem is top-stitched but has possibly been cut as other examples we have sold have ribbed edge to hem.
A John Galliano navy wool gabardine coat-dress, 'Blanche DuBois', Spring-Summer 1988, Galliano London label and UK12, with double-breasted front and full, swagged 'blown away 'skirt hem, hem cut shorter at the front with button-holed inner band to form polonaise drapes, bust approx 96cm, 38in CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, no problems
A rare and early John Galliano blanket-wool dress, 'Forgotten Innocents' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1986-87, un-labelled, with 'Circle'-cut bodice and long sleeves, optional short sleeves (functional as well as decorative) sailor collar, the hem rolled back and held in a tape with rear pouched drape, bust approx 76cm, 30in CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, no problems. Overall impression is clean, fresh and good. Very faint soil mark on skirt front. Pinhead moth hole to rear right hip.
A John Galliano parachute silk shirt with 'circle' cut sleeves, Spring-Summer, 1986, John Galliano London label and size EU 36, of complex construction with sailor collar, front cowl, the hem dipping down at each side, bust approx 96cm, 38in CONDITION REPORT: Good condition. One small pinhead-sized hole at rear left bodice.
A rare John Galliano 'Incroyable' style coat, 'Lolita' collection, Spring-Summer, 1992, unlabelled, of ivory calico lined in striped Dupion, the lapels faced in sprigged satin, with florin coin and metal buttons; with pair of graphite stretch satin 'Cavalry' trousers from the same collection, with concealed coin pockets to waist, bust approx 86cm, 34in, waist 71cm, 28in (2)Galliano's backer - Peder Bertelsen of Aguecheek, closed the company before any of this collection could be produced and so in consequence examples are rare. The contents of the studio was thrown into skips. These pieces were worn in the show and acquired by a member of the studio. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition. Coat is clean and fresh, worn just the once in the show it seems. Exterior cream calico is good. Very faint perspiration stains at underarms. All the seams as usual are beautifully finished. Trousers: crotch seam needs re-stitching 5cm (minor). It's interesting to see how Galliano re-visited his degree show collection for this collection.
A John Galliano 'Pretty Baby' cutwork cotton body, 'Lolita' collection, Spring-Summer, 1992, unlabelled, the roundel design created using devore paste, with white tissue paper fringed 'tails' to the shoulders, bust approx 81cm, 32in CONDITION REPORT: Brown stain to one shoulder strap. Light brown stain to edge of interior crotch. Otherwise good.
A John Galliano bias-cut beige viscose dress, Spring-Summer 1987, Galliano London label and UK 8, with diagonal panels and pleated harem-style hem, bust approx 86cm, 34inIn this collection Galliano began to experiment with the bias cut - although not in the full-blown 30s style which was to follow and for which he was to become recognized. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition.
An Azzedine Alaïa black leather `zipper' dress, Spring-Summer 1986, labelled and size 40, with wide biker-style lapels, curving diagonal front opening, wide shoulders, bust approx 102cm, 40in, waist 76cm, 30inFrida Khelfa is pictured modelling the denim version of this dress next to Azzedine Alaïa in 1986. See 'Alaïa' by Palais Galliera p.171. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition. Light surface scratches to leather, minor.
A Chanel couture 'Chess' dress, Autumn-Winter, 1986-87, bearing defilé label 'Atelier Colette, H 86, Robe 90', of black satin, the strapless bodice embroidered by Lesage with a chess-board and pieces in sequins, ivory and scarlet bugle beads, the bodice and skirt trimmed with sable, the skirt trimmed with bows, bust approx 86cm, 34in CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, superb embroidery, no obvious losses to beads or sequins. Dress is clean and fresh in appearance, looks little worn.
An Yves Saint Laurent couture black gauze and fuchsia point d'esprit evening gown, Spring-Summer, 1986, bearing defilé label, model no 88, Atelier Jacqueline and handwritten with model name 'Mounia', the bodice with black satin bow and belt, over a slubbed black gauze skirt, bust 81cm, 32in, waist 56cm, 22in CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, only worn for the show. Leather on belt has slightly stiffened.
A Givenchy couture watermelon-pink organza ball gown with petal skirt, late 1980s-early 1990s, labelled and numbered 80007, with V-shaped plunging neckline above tiered petal skirt, cut longer at the back, with matching cummerbund, bust 92cm, 36in, waist 66cm, 26in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Light rubbing to organza at neckline and shoulders, minor. Faint pinholes from a brooch to one shoulder. Very, very slightly faded over shoulder (barely noticeable).
An Yves Saint Laurent sari-style gold lamé gown, Autumn-Winter 1991-2, Rive Gauche labelled and size 40, the cropped asymmetric bodice and low-slung skirt exposing the midriff, with hood formed from a panel which drapes around the neck, bust approx 96cm, 38inThis design is well documented and was modelled by Carmen Kass on the catwalk show for this collection. Identical examples have been exhibited in retrospectives at the Petit Palais/Musée des Beaux-Arts de la Ville, Paris, March 11th-August 29th 2010 (see exhibition catalogue p.358) and the Denver Art Museum, March 25th-July 8th 2012. For a sketch of the gown, see 'Yves Saint Laurent Style', Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent, p.137. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, a few floating threads to lamé (minor)
A Christian Lacroix couture chartreuse silk coat, Spring-Summer 1992, labelled, with large diamanté faux buttons, full sleeves, bust 92cm, 36in, waist 66cm, 26in, with a matching belt and another similar in yellow; together with a Lacroix embroidered silk stole (4)This was look 36 in the catwalk show and can be seen in this video at 17min 13secs: www.youtube.com/watch?v=fIm5nBhrz5M CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, fabulous colour, looks little worn
A Vivienne Westwood 'Long Blossom' corset gown, Autumn-Winter 2005-6, gold label and size 14, of striped silk and black tulle, with pointed asymmetric neckline, bust approx 86cm, 34inHelena Bonham Carter wore an identical dress to the premiere of her film 'Dark Shadows' on May 9th 2012. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, no problems, looks little worn
An Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche 'Mondrian' knitted cotton mini-dress, circa 1990, labelled and size 40, a re-interpretation of the 1965 original with colour blocks divided by black lines, bust 86cm, 34in CONDITION REPORT: Large faint light brown watermark to front white panel. Has been washed.
A Jean Paul Gaultier 'Cowboy' lace corset dress, `La Concierge est dans l'Escalier' collection, Spring-Summer, 1998, unlabelled, of nude lycra overlaid with figurative lace, concentrically top stitched underwired breast cups, striped satin bands to the skirt and sides, with black stretch satin back-laced panel, bust approx 81cm, 32in CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, cowboy panels are good. Couple of minor breaks in the tulle but generally good. Spot stains to bodice and upper skirt lining, the one on the skirt is barely visible on the outside, the others are not visible at all. 2 spot stains to centre back hem lining - only one is barely visible, the other doesn't show. Dress would benefit from cleaning.
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110041 item(s)/page