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Lot 344
A Pierre Cardin sequinned evening gown, circa 1970, Paris labelled, purple and copper chequered patterns overall, lined in brown silk, bust approx 86cm, 34in CONDITION REPORT: Good overall- sequins generally intact with come minor losses, most noticeably approx 2cm line of sequins lacking to front bodice, minor.
Lot 228
A Givenchy claret-coloured velvet evening coat, Autumn-Winter 1996, couture labelled and size 38, probably Alexander McQueen for Givenchy, floor-length and with tie-belt, chest 86cm, 34in; together with an Emanuel Ungaro beaded evening gown, 1980s, Parallèle labelled, bust approx 92cm, 36in (3) CONDITION REPORT: Ungaro dress: 2cm split along edge of armhole seam, minor. Some lose threads/lost beads. Not immediately obvious. Otherwise good. Givenchy coat is good.
Lot 105
Erin O'Connor's Zac Posen silk evening gown, 2000s, labelled, bias-cut with fishtail trained hem, bust approx 81cm, 32in; together with an Alexander McQueen silver mesh dress, labelled and size 46, with detachable zipped hemline (2) Provenance: 'Glamour & Grace: Erin O'Connor' Christie's, 16th September 2008, lot 1. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition.
Lot 358
A Chanel boutique slubbed-silk cream suit, 1980s, labelled and size 36, edged with burgundy grosgrain ribbon, the jacket with self-covered buttons and gilt twisted crosses; matching mini-skirt, bust 86cm, 34in, waist 61cm, 24in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Good condition. Faint perspiration stains to interior silk lining of jacket at underarms, not visible to exterior. Skirt may have been shortened as lining is slack above this area.
Lot 82
A Loris Azzaro blue jersey evening gown, 1970s, labelled, appliquéd with large satin leaves with rhinestone detailing, low back and spaghetti straps, bust approx 86cm, 34in CONDITION REPORT: Slight discolouration to tip of leaf at right bust. A couple of small brown stains at centre front bodice but these are concealed by the leaves.
Lot 171
A Jean Paul Gaultier pale pink satin corset bodice, pre-collection, Autumn-Winter 2010, Femme labelled, vintage-inspired with top-stitched bra cups, boning, laces to rear and side zipper, bust approx 92cm, 36inThis can be seen in look no.9 on the runway, worn over a collared shirt. CONDITION REPORT: One small brown spot stain to front left at waist, satin pull tab to zipper slightly frayed, otherwise good.
Lot 180
A Gianni Versace black silk jersey slashed-effect evening gown, 1994, couture labelled and size 40, the bodice with asymmetric neckline, shoulder strap with rhinestone inset medusa buckle, bust approx 81cm, 32in CONDITION REPORT: Good condition. Would benefit from dry cleaning, a few surface soil marks (minor). Tear to care label, minor.
Lot 389
A pale blue cotton summer dress, 1905-10, with raised couched strapwork and blue embroidery, integral lace chemisette and cuffs; with a petticoat, bust 86cm, 34in, waist 64cm, 25in; and a black velvet walking suit c.1910 (4)Provenance: Caroline Littlewood CONDITION REPORT: Some fading and a scattering of rust marks down one side of skirt
Lot 361
A Baron's couture chiffon evening dress, 1966, labelled, the bodice heavily beaded with faceted droplets, the skirt formed from panels in shades of turquoise and yellow, bust approx 96cm, 38in CONDITION REPORT: Overall impression is good. beading is good and intact. Some minor flaws to chiffon of shirt- a few small light brown stains and pinhead-sized holes, but concealed within the gathers of fabric. Hem of interior slip may have been altered. Numerous holes/tears to lining of lining near hem, not visible to exterior.
Lot 151
A Givenchy couture blue chiffon kaftan-style gown, 1980s, un-labelled, the fitted ruched body with swag to right hip, voluminous sleeves with shoulder pads forming into cape to rear, bust 81cm, 32in CONDITION REPORT: Faded in places, most notably across shoulders and hip fastening. Scattering of pinhead sized brown dots to centre front bodice. Area of water marks at lower right sleeve and a couple to back of dress. Small thread pull near centre back hem.
Lot 204
A Christian Dior silk and tulle petticoat, Spring-Summer 1956, labelled and numbered 81386, with lightly boned corseted bodice, bust approx 97cm, 38in CONDITION REPORT: Upper tulle corset is good condition. Rear organza skirt needs re-stitching, organza top layer with brown discolourations generally. Could possibly be removed, cleaned and re-mounted
Lot 16
A Zandra Rhodes printed chiffon dress, early 1970s, with London and Piero de Monzi label, in shades of pink, orange and blue, the shirred bodice in 'Knitted Circle' print, elasticated waist; together with an associated slip, bust approx 96cm, 38in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Dress: three splits in chiffon at right shoulder, longest 8cm, and a couple of small holes to right sleeve hem. Slight discolouration around neckline/shoulders from wear, not immediately obvious. Hem is soiled with a couple of pin head sized holes, two stitched repairs, largest L-shaped and 16x5cm. Slip is homemade and poor condition.
Lot 170
A Romeo Gigli brown pleated velvet cocoon coat, 1990s, labelled, with oversized shawl collar; together with a Prada ombré-effect puckered wool dress, modern, labelled, bust approx 96cm, 38in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Prada dress has moth holes to front bodice. Otherwise good. Coat has a couple of small nicks in velvet (minor)
Lot 28
A Chanel tan cotton gabardine 'safari' ensemble, late 1980s, Boutique labelled and size 42, the jacket with gilt cast 'coin' buttons bearing Coco's profile; matching top and skirt, bust approx 92cm, 36in, waist 71cm, 28in (3) CONDITION REPORT: Good condition. Faint perspiration stains to jacket at interior underarms and extremely faint at underarms and neck edge of top (so faint would not show in photos). Care label of top has been cut, minor.
Lot 486
A tamboured lace and silk bridal gown, circa 1900, worked with bows and floral sprigs, the bodice with silk fichu and flounced cuffs; together with a cotton petticoat, c.1900, bust approx 86cm, 34in, waist 51cm, 20in (3) CONDITION REPORT: good condition overall. Scattering of light brown spots to bodice. Sleeves have been shortened by tucking inwards, cuffs and collar are probably later added. Otherwise appears unaltered.
Lot 79
A Gianni Versace bondage-style black wool jacket, Autumn-Winter, 1992-3, couture labelled, with leather buckle straps to front and gilt-tipped collar and pockets, bust approx 107cm, 42inA white version of this jacket can be seen in 'The Art and Craft of Gianni Versace' by Claire Wilcox et al, p.53, and variations of similar jackets can be seen on the runway for the A/W 1992 ready to wear collection. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition. Lacking one leather strap at right cuff. Button at right breast pocket is lacking central rhinestone and the 2 buttons to the right cuff also lacking central rhinestones. Interior fabric composition label has been cut, minor.
Lot 74
A Molyneux couture ivory silk grosgrain ballgown, early 1950s, labelled and numbered 56149, with handwritten label bearing the name 'Hon. Mrs. Waite', the bodice densely embellished with loops of silver beads and rhinestones forming flowers, smaller flower-heads falling from the waistline, bust approx 102cm, 40in CONDITION REPORT: Has moth damage around halter-neck strap and to hem. Faint perspiration stains at underarms. Beading is good. Light brown stains to interior slip.
Lot 259
A Comme des Garcons red flocked velvet coat, 'Flowering Clothes' collection, Autumn-Winter 1996, labelled, with pointed shoulders; together with a Comme des Garcons flocked dress, also AW 1996, un-labelled, with quilting to skirt, bust 86cm, 34in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Both good condition, no problems, look unworn
Lot 403
A broderie Anglaise muslin dress, circa 1830, with long, curved gigot sleeves, cutwork neck edging and deep band of whitework to the hem, bust approx 81cm, 32in CONDITION REPORT: Overall good condition with several small darned repairs, none immediately obvious. Most notable at front left side bodice seam approx. 6cm long and area of small repairs at left side skirt seam. A few pin-head sized holes in muslin. One 2 x 1cm hole at rear left hem, 3 very small holes to right side of skirt. Small tear at rear left bodice closure where gathers have come undone, easily repaired.
Lot 54
A group of Bill Gibb daywear, 1970s-early 1980s, labelled, approximately nine ensembles, including a pink eyelet muslin skirt and blouse, probably S/S 1976; pale green pleated silk skirt with smock-style cropped blouse; and others, various sizes (qty) Provenance: Greta Morrison CONDITION REPORT: ·Pale blue jersey ensemble - trousers are heavily stained, waist 26in. Blouse is good with 2 tiny brown spots, bust approx. 36in·Pink eyelet ensemble - very light and faint brown stains to skirt (not immediately obvious), faint perspiration stains at right underarm edge of bra. Skirt waist 24in, blouse bust approx. 34in, bra 32in·Green silk ensemble - skirt has brown stain to middle front, waist 22in. Blouse has perspiration stains along inner neck edge, lining only, bust approx. 36in (smock-style)·Beige silk shirt - couple of very faint small grease marks, mainly to lower front, bust 36in·Skirt with stripes - waist 24in·Pastel striped ensemble - top is unlabeled, couple of very faint grease marks which are hard to see, bust 34in, 'skirt' is culottes with waist 24in·Pink embellished blouse - very faint perspiration stains at underarms (hard to see), bust approx. 34in·Checked hooded top - one small moth hole to front and 2 small brown spot stains next to this·Checked ensemble - 2 small moth holes to left side of waistcoat and discolouration to lining from perspiration. Skirt has one small moth hole near hem, waist 24in
Lot 17
An Ossie Clark black moss crêpe 'Cuddly' gown, circa 1970, printed satin label and size 8, the wrap-over front with waist ties, low keyhole back opening and full sleeves, bust approx 81-86cm, 32-34in CONDITION REPORT: Skirt hem has been shortened, slight soiling, 2.5cm diam bleach mark to skirt on front panel. Possibly re-stitched at rear neck, otherwise good.
Lot 176
A Christian Dior cloqué lamé cocktail dress, mid 1960s, Paris Boutique labelled and numbered 1052200, with rolled collar and circular cut-outs to waist, bust 92cm, 36in CONDITION REPORT: Buttons at collar slightly frayed and floating threads at collar. Dress has been altered at side seams and hem. Interior is a mixture of hand and machine finishes. Slight tarnishing to metal threads (minor), noticeable area at front lower of skirt 3x1cm, and centre back bodice.
Lot 154
A Valentino couture brocaded silk trouser ensemble, late 1960s, black on white 'Valentino Roma' label, comprising: mini-dress/coat with large pleats to skirt sides, with matching trousers, woven with gold and silver stripes, bust 92cm, 36in, waist 71cm, 28in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Poor condition. Side hem of jacket is badly frayed. Floating threads particularly at sleeves and neckline. Very faint perspiration stains at underarms of lining, not visible to exterior. Fraying to trouser lining. Colours are good.
Lot 185
An Ossie Clark black crêpe 'Cuddly' wrap-over dress, early 1970s, woven label, with deep low V neckline and open back, full sleeves, waist ties, bust approx 81-86cm, 32-34in CONDITION REPORT: Good condition. Two hooks and eyes have been added at bust for modesty, well done but could be easily removed. 2x2.5cm L-shaped repair to hem.
Lot 23
An Ossie Clark/Celia Birtwell for Radley printed rayon dress, mid 1970s, printed satin label, smock-style with attached waist tie-belt and plunging neckline, bust approx 102cm, 40in CONDITION REPORT: Has been washed and white part of print faintly discoloured to pink from dye run. Hem has been raised. Faint white stretch marks at lower rear skirt near hem and small pinhead sized hole here also. Elastic has gone at sleeves.
Lot 24
A Jean Patou chinoiserie brocaded satin gown, circa 1960, pink on white woven label, numbered 79808, woven with repeats of birds and blossoming branches, the strapless bodice with attached shawl 'collar', interior corset and petticoat with stiffening to hips, bust approx 92cm, 40in CONDITION REPORT: Good condition. Light yellowing to interior of corset from wear, minor. Light soiling along hem edge of interior petticoat, minor.
Lot 51
A Bill Gibb floral printed chiffon ensemble, circa 1977, labelled, the dress overlaid with metallic lace and with beaded bodice; together with a matching cape, bust 81cm, 32in (2)Provenance: Greta Morrison CONDITION REPORT: Good. Neck lining of cape soiled from wear. Dress: bodice lining and lining hem very lightly soiled from wear. Exterior is fresh and good. Light brown stain to centre back lining, not visible to exterior. Light fraying to metallic threads of shoulder straps, minor.
Lot 413
A mauve damask silk day dress, mid 1840s, with radiating pleats from low V shaped waist, the bodice adorned with silk cord rosettes, fitted sleeves, hook and eye rear closure, bust approx 81cm, 32in; together with a brown taffeta reticule and a pair of black silk pumps by Melnotte of Paris & London (3) CONDITION REPORT: Unaltered, good condition, slight rubbing to 2 domed centres of rosettes at lower waist. Very, very slight perspiration stains at underarms. Remarkably fresh. Shoes heavily used and with patched repairs.
Lot 104
A Chanel herringbone tweed suit, Autumn-Winter 1996, Boutique labelled and size 44, the faux leather covered buttons to jacket with gilt double 'C's, concealed hook fastenings and chain weighted hem; matching skirt, bust approx 102cm, 40in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Perspiration stains to silk lining of jacket at underarms. Not visible to exterior, although tweed does appear slightly darker along underarm seam upon inspection. Good condition, care label has been cut out, minor.
Lot 50
A Bill Gibb ivory broderie anglaise cotton summer ensemble, Spring-Summer 1976, labelled, with bee shaped enamelled buttons, comprising smock-style dress, high-waisted shorts and halter-neck top, busts approx 86cm, 34in (3) Provenance: Greta Morrison CONDITION REPORT: Good condition. Top is lacking one button. A couple of very small brown stains to smock dress (not immediately obvious) and one button is detached and secured to dress with safety-pin. Smock dress bust 34in, 86cm across top edge of button-up bodice. Shorts waist max 3oin.
Lot 172
A Jean Paul Gaultier 'Russian Constructivist' collection satin skirt, Autumn-Winter, 1986-87, Gibo labelled, with padded hem and flocked lettering to sides, waist 66cm, 26in; together with an associated Gaultier jersey top, Equator labelled, bust approx 92cm, 36in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Scuffing to satin to back of skirt but otherwise good. Top has scuffing to jersey but otherwise good.
Lot 158
An Ossie Clark red crêpe 'Cuddly' wrap-over dress, circa 1970, printed satin label, with deep low V neckline and open back, full sleeves, waist ties, bust approx 81-86cm, 32-34in CONDITION REPORT: Good condition. Hem has been raised, easily un-picked, lightly soiled. A few faint pale watermarks - at right hip, left cuff and left breast area, not immediately obvious, and a couple of pinhead sized holes. Very small brown mark at rear left hip area. Small darned moth hole at right shoulder and near waistband. All minor.
Lot 188
A Courrèges black wool dress, late 1960s, labelled 'Courreges Paris' and 'Made in France for Harrods', with metal buttons fastening down one side of the bodice, bust 96cm, 38in CONDITION REPORT: Exterior in generally good condition, faint perspiration stains at underarms. Soiling to lining at upper back and neckline.
Lot 414
A pale blue/pink changeable silk dress, 1800-1810, with narrow inner linen breast panels, fall-front bodice attached to the silk skirt, with silk waist ties, long sleeves and trained skirt, bust approx 77cm, 30in; together with an early 19th century striped tulle under-bodice (2) CONDITION REPORT: Dress is unaltered and overall good condition, apart from perspiration stains at underarms. Small spot stain on skirt, small scattered speckle stains on front skirt, a few small bleach marks (minor). There are 2 belt loops at the back but no belt. 2 stains rear left hem and small speckle stains (nothing too obvious). Net bodice in good condition.
Lot 415
A pink faille and ivory damask historicist evening gown, 1875-80, the long jacket-like bodice with Elizabethan style puffed sleeves, and pleated satin inserts, hook and eye fastened to front with three buttons, matching trained skirt, bust approx 81cm, 32in; together with printed cotton bustle; a black velvet bodice, late 1870s; and two lace and pink ribbon trimmed chignon covers (5) CONDITION REPORT: Faint droplet stain down hem of jacket and centre front skirt. Faded over shoulders but because it is pale pink it is generally not noticeable. Faint mark to rear bodice. Faint perspiration stains at underarm, visible on cotton lining only. Skirt has fading down front, right side and rear hem. Black velvet jacket is good condition. Caps in good condition. Bustle is soiled but good condition.
Lot 346
A Madame Grès couture aubergine rayon faille evening dress, 1950s, black on white woven label, strapless corsetted bodice, bust approx 86cm, 34in CONDITION REPORT: Hem has been altered, minor. Small hole where boning is poking through at left underarm, slight rubbing and discolouration from perspiration to bodice edge at underarms. Otherwise good. Beautiful construction to interior bodice.
Lot 160
A Junya Watanabe for Comme des Garçons brown leather biker jacket/cape, Autumn 2011, labelled and size S, with chunky front zipper fastening, fitted waist, curved hip pockets and capelet back, bust approx 92cm, 36inThe black version of this was look no. 3 on the catwalk. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition. Light surface scratches.
Lot 368
A silk fancy-dress costume and group of accessories, mainly 1920s, comprising; clown-like jumpsuit, 1920s; sequinned skull cap, c.1930; two Edwardian parasols, one with gilt handle engraved 'F.J.Carr'; two ostrich feather fans; theatrical headdress and a cotton wash-bag (6)Lots 368 to 392 from the collection of the late Caroline Littlewood. CONDITION REPORT: Satin dress is badly frayed, bust 86cm, 34in, waist 76cm, 30 in, poor condition. Silver head dress cellophane: tulle edging has perished generally. Skull cap good condition. Black silk umbrella: plated grip slightly tarnished. Leather wrist strap is worn. Few pinholes in canopy, otherwise good. Fans are bit grimey and moth damaged.
Lot 386
A Wolmershausen lady's riding habit, circa 1880, the printed trade label stating 'Military Tailor and Habit Maker, to Her Majesty, the Prince Regent and the Royal Family, 14 Curzon St', the streamlined short wool bodice edged in black braid, with domed silk buttons, short rear tails and matching side-saddle skirt, bust, 81cm, 32in, waist 61cm, 24in; together with a lightweight grey challis sports or walking suit for summer, early 1890s, double breasted with silk covered buttons, matching skirt, bust 81cm, 32in, waist 51cm, 20in (4)Provenance: Caroline Littlewood CONDITION REPORT: Navy 1880 habit is good condition, very fresh, slight wear to lining of skirt. Wear to inside waistband lining band, remains of inked name possibly Miss Marriot? Occasional speckling of small moth holes over skirt but not particularly noticeable or serious. There is a strange panel of cotton lining (presumably just for the seat area) which looks incomplete? Jacket is good, slight wear to cover on one button, missing lowest button, exterior generally is good, splits in places to lining, mainly neck, waist and underarm areas. Sports/walking suit it has lots of holes and wear, lovely shape but fair condition only. Jacket silk covering on one set of buttons are worn. Frayed areas on short left lapel, splitting at underarms, slight wear to silk covers on tail bottom, slight thinning centre back, slight moth damage below neck. Internally good as brown cotton lining. Skirt has scattering of moth damage generally on both sides.
Lot 410
An E & J Hooper ivory satin gown, circa 1912, label to waistband, the empire-line bodice trimmed with bands of embroidered and sequinned tulle in scrolling and floral motifs, falling to the rear with beaded tassels, bust approx 86cm, 34in, waist 51cm, 20in CONDITION REPORT: First impression is fresh and good. Sections of the interior bodice silk lining have been repaired/replaced (well done). Silk to edge of interior bodice is splitting in places near hooks. Skirt is lacking lining. The under layers of sleeves have been removed. Several small splits to silk at sleeves. Faint light brown stain to lower left skirt, not immediately obvious.
Lot 42
A Chanel purple tweed suit, Autumn 2003, labelled, flecked with silver threads, faceted buttons inscribed with double 'C's to cuffs, with matching camellia brooch, bust 91cm, 36in, waist 76cm, 30in; together with a Chanel wool-blend jacket with Chinchilla fur collar, 2003, labelled, chest 102cm, 40in (4) The suit was look 27 on the catwalk and also featured in an advertisement in US Vogue, September 2003, p.6. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, appear unworn. Light bobbling to brown jacket (minor).
Lot 119
A Gianni Versace 'Canova' velvet cocktail suit, Autumn-Winter 1991-92, couture labelled and size 44, the jacket with enamelled gilt buttons, printed with dancing Grecian women and nude sculptures, lined in matching silk; pencil skirt, bust 102cm, 40in, waist 71cm, 28in (2) This print is based on the work of the Italian neoclassical sculptor Antonio Canova (1757-1822), known for his marble sculptures inspired by the Baroque and classical revival. A dressing gown and fabric sample in the same print can be seen in 'The Art and Craft of Gianni Versace' by Claire Wilcox et al, p.137-138. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition. Light soiling to velvet at left jacket pocket. Lining of left underarm needs re-stitching, approx. 6 cm, minor.
Lot 26
An Yves Saint Laurent 'Le Smoking' style velvet suit, 2000s, labelled, the jacket with contrasting silk lapels, bust 96cm, 38in, waist 76cm, 30in; together with an Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche velvet jacket with 'jewel' inset gilt buttons, AW 1994, labelled, bust 96cm, 38in (3) CONDITION REPORT: Suit- good condition, looks unworn, jacket is French size 44, skirt is French size 38. Black jacket- one small soil mark to front right. One button missing 4 stones, two more missing one each. Soiling at underarms.
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