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Lot 148

A Jean Patou couture shocking pink and gold brocatelle sheath, circa 1960, labelled and numbered 30447, empire-line the bodice adorned with faceted gold beads, droplets and pearls, integral corset, bust 81-86cm, 32-34in CONDITION REPORT: Very fresh appearance, looks little worn. Two pleats have been stitched into the inner petersham corset to make smaller - easily reversed. Hem has been raised. A few beads missing rear right side of bodice.

Lot 149

A Marc Bohan for Christian Dior mink trimmed evening jacket, Autumn-Winter, 1962, labelled and numbered 6700, brocaded in gold, with pink, blue and white blossom, lined in golden taffeta, bust 92cm, 36in; and a pair of matching shoes (3) CONDITION REPORT: very fresh, good condition, no problems

Lot 150

An Yves Saint Laurent for Christian Dior charcoal-grey organza satin cocktail dress, Autumn-Winter, 1960, labelled and numbered 107567, with boned bodice, narrow straps, princess line with bouffant, weighted hem, the rear hem with multiple organza ruffles and bow; with integral tulle petticoat and suspenders, bust 86cm, 34in CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, slight soiling at rear hem (minor). Looks little worn.

Lot 154

A Balenciaga couture evening gown, Summer 1961, Paris labelled and numbered 77099, the silk gauze with large-scale floral print in shades of pink on white, the strapless dress with integral grosgrain corset, with low cowl-like draped band to back and two floating trained panels with bows to each side, bust 92-97cm, 36-38in CONDITION REPORT: Overall good condition, looks little worn. Faint perspiration stain at right underarm and at right underarm slight fraying in gauze here also. Small hole in gauze where a corset strut has poked upwards. Overall impression is fresh and good with strong, vibrant colours. Small brown mark on hem of left train. Interior is fresh and good, nice clean corset. Small spot stain to front right of ivory crepe de chine petticoat (minor). Brown discolouration to rayon stiffening peplum (to add extra volume), this is minor.

Lot 155

A Christian Dior Patron Originale silver and gold brocade evening gown, 1967, unlabelled, woven overall with grapes and vines, the open-work bodice with large gilt medallions, bust 97cm, 38inFor similar Patron Originale Dior pieces with labels see lots 140 and 161.See 'L'Officiel de la Mode', 1967 no 539-540 p314 for a dress with similar bodice. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, very fresh. Perspiration stains at underarms but hard to see due to pattern/sheen of fabric. Hem needs re-stitching in places, minor.

Lot 157

An Yves Saint Laurent Patron Originale mini dress, 1966, un-labelled, of woven Malhia fabric, in vivid orange, pink and blue woven ribbons with gold sequined edgings, bust 81cm, 32in A similar dress but with long sleeves is illustrated in 'L'Officiel de la Mode', October 1966, no 535-6 p154. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, dress has been relined to a high standard. Overview - good exterior but unlabelled and re-lined.

Lot 159

A Christian Dior London black wool crêpe evening ensemble, 1963, labelled and numbered 16325, size 12, with black spencer-like over bodice above pleated wool skirt, integral corset; the matching jacket with fox collar, bust 86cm, 34in (2)

Lot 160

A Dior New York Japonism brocaded lamé sheath, mid 1960s, labelled to skirt, with integral black tulle corset, woven with vertically banded green satin and gold bamboo columns entwined with pastel blossom, bust 86cm, 34in CONDITION REPORT: Slight tarnishing at underarms. Good condition, very fresh.

Lot 162

A Guy Laroche couture heavily beaded cocktail dress, circa 1960, labelled, with low draped cowl back with ties, entirely covered with raisedwork S scrolls and columns in tangerine, pink and silver beads on a beige ground, bust 86cm, 34in CONDITION REPORT: Good condition. Hem may have been raised as beads continue on the underside of hem return for 3cm. However there is also a beaded return on the centre-back seam and the stitching looks original with no alterations. It may be that there was extra beading to give the client flexibility. Lining is good. Beading is generally good. Overview - good.

Lot 163

A fine Jean Patou purple and white printed wool ensemble, 1968-9, labelled 'Jean Patou Paris, tailored in London', comprising: mini dress with abstract roses and 'Patou' printed below the faux front pockets; the maxi coat with domed self-covered buttons, arctic fox collar and hem, bust 86-92cm, 34-36in (2)This ensemble was worn in a Patou catwalk show in London in the late 1960s. CONDITION REPORT: ·Good condition, very fresh·Coat has 3 small very faint light brown stains to rear near hem (minor). Area of fur trim at rear hem is slightly discoloured but this is not immediately obvious. A couple of pinhead sized brown stains to left cuff (minor). Lining has a few very light brown stains - minor and hard to see. ·Dress has 1 small faint light brown stain near front hem (minor). Lining has a couple of faint light brown stains also.

Lot 164

A Courregès couture embroidered mini dress, 1967, labelled Courregès Paris, the white organza ground appliquéd with pale pink silk daisies with irridescent mirror-like celluloid centres, lined in white cotton, bust 81cm, 32in CONDITION REPORT: Two small brown spot stains to front hem area and one to back. Soiling to cotton lining, celluloid discs are generally good. Very faint perspiration stains at underarms. Slight alteration to stitch line centre front midriff but this looks as though done at the time of manufacture, a slight adjustment.

Lot 165

An Yves Saint Laurent couture printed organza ensemble, Spring-Summer, 1969, labelled and numbered 25276, the blouse and skirt with large scale floral print, bust 92cm, 36in, waist 61cm, 24in (2)A blouse of similar print and cut is illustrated as part of an ensemble in 'L'Officiel de la Mode', no 563-564 p386. CONDITION REPORT: Blouse: split along seam line at top of each shoulder, easily repaired. Very faint perspiration stains at underarms which are hard to see and concealed by print. Some speckling due to blue dye at right shoulder (minor). Skirt: hem has been re-stitched in places (minor). Zip has been replaced, 2 small stitched repairs at waistband, otherwise good.

Lot 166

A Chanel couture deep coral-pink and grey tartan tweed suit, late 60s-early 70s, un-labelled, the jacket faced and lined in coral silk with lion's mask buttons and chain to hem; matching skirt, bust 102cm, 40in, waist 69cm, 27in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, no problems. Jacket is fresh and good, lining is clean and good. Skirt in good condition.

Lot 167

A Courregès pop art style mini dress, 1969, with Courregès Paris and I Magnin labels, of navy double-faced wool with large appliquéd ivory circles front and back, bust 92cm, 36in CONDITION REPORT: Small moth hole to rear shoulder, ivory discs front and back with tiny pinhead moth holes and some 'invisible' repairs which are barely noticeable. Front ivory disc with 2x17cm faint brown line, not immediately noticeable. Approx 6 invisibly mended small moth holes to skirt front. Lining has perspiration stains at underarms, underarm seams need re-stitching in place and centre front below collar.

Lot 169

A Jean Patou purple and ivory geometric appliquéd maxi dress, circa 1969, un-labelled, the ivory wool ground applied with blocks of purple wool forming a lattice, bust 92cm, 36in CONDITION REPORT: good condition, the odd barely noticeable mark to the ivory yoke area

Lot 171

A Madame Grès couture navy and red pop art style ensemble, circa 1965, labelled, comprising: sleeveless dress with red bodice lined in navy, with button closure to one shoulder, tie belt above navy skirt; the matching zip fastened jacket with large heart motif, also with two tie belts, bust 81-86cm, 32-34in (4) CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, very fresh. Dress is good condition, silk lining has watermarks and approx. 1.5cm hole to rear hem. Jacket is good condition. End of one belt has been re-stitched.

Lot 172

A Pierre Cardin navy jersey and white vinyl mini dress, 1969, labelled 'Les Jerseys de Pierre Cardin', the Leonard jersey ground applied with abstract white vinyl shapes and edgings, bust 86cm, 34in For an identical model see 'L'Officiel de la Mode', 1969, no 563-564 pp188, 189 and 328. CONDITION REPORT: First impression is fresh and good. Front neck vinyl is slightly discoloured at edges and fine splits at front area on the curve. Vinyl panels would benefit from cleaning - faint discolourations. Underarms inside are deodorant soiled. 1cm hole to rear left sleeve, peppering of small moth holes down front right side of dress. Hem may have been raised - the return edge is hand finished but the rest of the seams are machine locked.

Lot 174

A Pierre Cardin couture brown wool crêpe futuristic dress, 1969, labelled 'Cardin Paris', with three oval cut outs to front, bust 81cm, 32in For a similar model in white, see 'L'Officiel de la Mode', 1969, no 563-564 p343. CONDITION REPORT: Hem has been shortened, wear to lining at neck otherwise good condition

Lot 175

A Courrèges black wool pinafore dress, circa 1969, labelled and numbered 56534, with black press stud fasteners, bust 81cm, 32in CONDITION REPORT: Dusty from storage otherwise good

Lot 177

A Courregès couture black vinyl mock croc pinafore dress, 1970, labelled and numbered 44590, with popper fasteners, Legion d'Honneur ribbon to one strap, bust approx 84cm, 36in CONDITION REPORT: Good condition

Lot 180

A Lanvin couture knitted jersey colour block cocktail dress, 1970s, large Paris label, the cross-over bodice buttoning at the front waist, deep band of faux monkey fur to hem, bust 86cm, 34in CONDITION REPORT: pinhead moth hole in left sleeve and another to rear right hip in green band - barely noticeable. Very fresh, clean appearance

Lot 181

A Pierre Cardin summer ensemble, 1970 Paris Boutique labelled, the tunic with chasuble-shaped panels of yellow polyester edged in white, side slits with matching pants, bust 86cm, 34in (2)See 'L'Officiel de la Mode', 1970 no 577 p63 for a similar ensemble in green. CONDITION REPORT: good condition

Lot 182

An unusual Madame Grès couture watermelon red gazar evening dress, circa 1965, labelled and with no 11272, with front and back chasuble-like curved trapezoid panels, with short crêpe integral underskirt to the front but open at the back with just ties, bust approx 86-92cm, 34-36in CONDITION REPORT: Overall impression - great colour, great shape. Soiled, needs dry cleaning. Front with grease spots lower section of skirt above the hem. Back: grease spot on the reverse of main panel but doesn't show on exposed side. Rear left panel with scattering of small grease spots. Slight soiling on hem edge.

Lot 183

A Pierre Cardin air-force blue wool dress, 1969, un-labelled, with ribbed, padded neckline and flounce to skirt, bust 86cm, 34in CONDITION REPORT: zip is broken, good condition overall, may have been re-lined.

Lot 184

A Courregès navy wool dress, circa 1970, labelled and numbered 66829, with black vinyl edgings and belt, bust 92cm, 36in CONDITION REPORT: good condition, soiled lining, in need of cleaning

Lot 185

A Pierre Balmain couture devoré and lamé kaftan-like evening gown, late 1960s, labelled and numbered 158-193, with draped batwing sleeves, the collar of blue wood and gilt beads, with columnar chiffon covered nude silk crêpe integral petticoat, bust 92cm, 36in CONDITION REPORT: Good condition looks little worn, lacking two wooden beads from the collar, a few of the gold beads - the paint has rubbed off exposing the white bead below. Side closure zip is broken.

Lot 186

A Pierre Cardin Crimplene 'Rocket' dress, Autumn-Winter 1969, Jersey Couture labelled, with fin-like curved panels to hem which move when worn, revealing contrasting black and white sides, bust 86cm, 34in, waist 86cm, 34inFor video footage of this collection featuring an identical dress, see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z_rsVHSXrY4&spfreload=10 CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, no problems

Lot 187

An Yves Saint Laurent couture 'Le Smoking' maxi dress, Spring-Summer, 1970, labelled and numbered 24652, double breasted with glass buttons, side slits, wide armholes, bust 86cm, 34inThis is an early example of Saint Laurent's use of the 'Le Smoking' applied to a dress. Two versions were made for this collection, see 'Yves Saint Laurent Exoticisms' p120 for an example of the other dress. It is also photographed in the Saint Laurent Archive, Spring 1970 #24652.

Lot 189

An Yves Saint Laurent tan cotton gabardine 'Saharienne' or safari top, 1968, large Rive Gauche label, with applied pockets and front lacing, bust 86cm, 34in The model Verushka was famously photographed modelling the safari top for Vogue in 1968. CONDITION REPORT: Overall good condition, one underarm seam needs slightly restitching, minor. A couple of faint marks to front hem. Small grey spot stains to inside left cuff. Soil mark to right cuff.

Lot 191

A Pierre Balmain couture apricot velvet, satin and gold lamé brocatelle cocktail suit, circa 1967, labelled and numbered 147089, the short-sleeved dress futuristic lobed shape plastron to bodice, A-line skirt with vented pockets; the matching coat gilt knot buttons, bust 92cm, 36in, waist 81cm, 32in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Coat and dress are very clean and fresh. I think the hem has been lowered approx. 3cm on both.

Lot 192

A Madame Grès couture black jersey sheath, 1970s, labelled and with defilé tape handwritten '105 Vicky, At. Jeannine, 11931', the columnar gown with boned organza integral corset to the strapless bodice, ivory and black floating panel forming a cape which hooks onto the bodice front, with rope-twist neck band, bust 76-81cm, 30-32in, waist 60cm, 23 1/2in CONDITION REPORT: Soiling to inside edge of rope-twist neck band, small repair to edge of front bodice. Hem probably altered at some point. Organza shoulder strap is frayed on one edge. Scarf - 2cm split, easily repaired and a few scattered small holes (minor).

Lot 196

A Chanel couture cocktail suit, 1963, labelled and numbered 18145, the sleeveless dress with ivory and silver lamé bodice, ivory bouclé wool skirt, self-covered buttons, the loose jacket with chain to hem, bust 92cm, 36in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Jacket: one sleeve has been relined, one sleeve in need of relining, otherwise fresh and good. Dress: exterior is good, bodice lining with faint perspiration rings and a split. Skirt lining has been replaced, a few holes in this above rear hem area.

Lot 198

A Chanel couture midnight blue beaded cocktail ensemble, 1974, labelled and numbered 50789, comprising: cardigan style jacket with matching skirt, pale pink chiffon blouse, a beaded camisole top; headband; hair slide and two silk corsages, bust 98-102cm, 38-40in, waist 92cm, 36in (qty) CONDITION REPORT: skirt and camisole bodice have been let out, there is a bag of matching beaded scraps and silk fragments

Lot 199

A Chanel couture ivory silk suit with bi-colour grosgrain edgings, Spring-Summer, 1971, labelled and numbered 41438, the short boxy jacket with gilt ridged concave buttons, chain to hem, bust 92cm, 36in, waist 69cm, 27in (2)This was Coco Chanel's last collection. CONDITION REPORT: jacket side seams have been slightly let out as has skirt waist and hip area

Lot 201

An Ossie Clark/Celia Birtwell printed chiffon dress, circa 1972, labelled and size 14, in a variation of the 'Tulip' print, with flounced sleeves and button side fastening, bust 92cm, 36in, waist 71cm, 28in CONDITION REPORT: Good condition. Hem has one 5cm tear to front along edge and raw edge for 32cm, easily repaired. One very small hole near hem at rear right. 2cm split at left underarm next to top button loop, easily repaired.

Lot 205

A Zandra Rhodes 'Conceptual Chic' safety-pin dress, 1978, labelled and size 10, of rayon jersey with intentional tears to front, adorned with beaded safety pins, matching long sleeved underdress, bust approx 86cm, 34in (2)In the late 1970s, Zandra became known as 'The High Priestess of Punk', as she began experimenting with new design techniques, feeling that her softer chiffon designs were no longer in keeping with times. She describes working on these 'Conceptual Chic' pieces: 'I took pieces of silken jersey and cut tears in them. These were passed around my studio and we all worked on perfecting the tatters and stitching the edges. It proved to be quite difficult to make a 'beautiful tear'. See 'The Art of Zandra Rhodes', by Zandra Rhodes and Anne Knight, pp.177-181. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition.

Lot 206

A Madame Grès couture pleated turquoise evening ensemble, circa 1970, un-labelled, comprising bodice of undulating rope-twist pleats with rouleaux straps; the separate tightly pleated skirt with ties to waist band, bust approx 86cm, 34in, waist 62cm 24 1/2in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Skirt hem has unfinished raw edge, generally good. Slight wear at top of rear waist closure where a prestud has been pulled off. Waist ties have ladders, slight soiling to bodice edge and lining, the occasional pulled threads but nothing particularly serious or noticeable. Seam on one spaghetti strap has come unstitched. Underwire at left breast is poking out of jersey pocket (minor). Top edge seam is unstitched 6cm at left back closure panel.

Lot 207

A Thea Porter printed chiffon and velvet 'gipsy' dress, 1970, woven black on white label, the velvet bodice edged in gold braid, with Sandra Munro designed chiffon print, bust 86cm, 34in CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, colours are good. Very faint stains mainly on skirt front but not immediately noticeable due to the pattern, and hard to see. Slight creases to velvet at underarms from wear (minor) and very faint perspiration stains at underarms to lining only, not visible to exterior. 8cm stitched repair to velvet at under-bust seam (not immediately obvious). A couple of faint watermarks/stains to lining at lower rear skirt, otherwise lining is good.

Lot 213

A Chanel couture cutwork printed organza evening gown, Spring-Summer, 1978, labelled and numbered 55724, with pink taffeta inner corset, the cutwork floret's embroidered in gold, with elaborate basket woven cuffs with fringes, bust 81-86cm, 32-34, waist 61cm, 24in CONDITION REPORT: Hole in organza on both shoulders where a coat hanger has poked through but repairable. Lacking top and bottom self covered buttons on bodice front. Faint perspiration stains at underarms on inner camisole bodice, zip needs re-stitching in place on inner bodice. Probably lacking belt. Very fresh appearance.

Lot 214

A fine and important Gianni Versace bejewelled cat-suit, 1989-90, labelled Gianni Versace Couture, and with original swing tag, the halter-neck bodice beaded and embroidered with an Egyptian-inspired bird with out-stretched wings and large target-like motif to centre back, the black seed-bead ground inset with multi-coloured rhinestone and bugle beaded fan motifs, gilt bugle beaded chains with jewelled tassels, small cameo medallions, with zips to side and ankles, bust 86cm, 34in, waist 66cm, 26cmThe bodice of this outfit with outstretched bird motif is very similar to that used on the bodice of a dance costume Versace designed for Maurice Bejart's ballet 'Souvenir de Leningrad' which was performed in Lausanne in December 1989. For an illustration of that costume see 'The Art & Craft of Gianni Versace', V&A Publications, p102.The vendor informs us that the bird on the bodice is the Egyptian goddess, Nekhbet. CONDITION REPORT: Beading is generally good. Some minor losses to blue rhinestone V at raised left-side waist level and to band upper left leg and inside lower left leg, 2 peacock blue gem-like rhinestones missing from left hip.

Lot 221

A dramatic Thierry Mugler pink satin and black Chantilly lace covered evening gown, 1994, labelled and size 40, with black velvet appliquéd points to emphasise the curves, trained skirt, long sleeves, bust 91cm, 36in CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, no problems

Lot 222

A Jean-Paul Gaultier 'Mad Max' dress, Autumn-Winter, 1995-96, Maille labelled, of stretch polyamide forming a second skin, the computer-generated spot pattern reflect the contours of the female form, with spot-print portrait to the rear shoulders, bust approx 86cm, 34in For this collection Gaultier drew inspiration from the 1979 science fiction film 'Mad Max'. CONDITION REPORT: Dress has been shortened at the waist

Lot 223

A Jean-Paul Gaultier 'Mad Max' hooded body suit, Autumn-Winter, 1995-96, Maille labelled, with computer generated spot-print to reflect the contours of the female form, bust approx 86cm, 34in CONDITION REPORT: Shortened at the top of each leg, otherwise good condition

Lot 224

An Yves Saint Laurent black tulle and velvet evening ensemble, mid 1980s, Rive Gauche labelled and size 38, with huge ruffled sleeves and ties of tulle to the skirt, bust 81cm, 32in, waist 61cm, 24in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Side zip is broken. Has defile no label '675' and small hole to lining on one side. Needs cleaning, make-up residue on bodice lining. Skirt lining is soiled. Skirt only has Rive Gauche label. Overview - good condition, needs zip fixing and dry cleaning.

Lot 225

A Thierry Mugler oyster crêpe evening gown, circa 1990, blue label and size 38, the clear vinyl collar embroidered with small pearlised beads, curved front side slit, bust 81-86cm, 32-34in CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, very fresh

Lot 226

A Thierry Mugler black velvet sheath, Spring, 1986, blue label, the boned strapless bodice applied with fan-pleated gold lame panels, above slender tapering velvet skirt with trained hem, bust approx 86cm, 34in See 'Thierry Mugler Photographe' 1988, Paris Du Regard, for an image of a model on a roof top wearing an identical dress.

Lot 227

A fine and rare Alexander McQueen for Givenchy couture black sequined `flapper' dress, Spring-Summer, 1999, Givenchy couture label, handwritten with the collection date and stamped 'Press Sample', model no 32, the nude chiffon ground applied with herring-bone stripes of black sequins, with frond-like gold sequined and embroidered edges, points to graduated black tulle skirt, bust 76cm, 30in, waist 61cm, 24in; together with a photograph of the gown being modelled but with tulle sleeves (2) McQueen took as his inspiration for this collection the 'roaring twenties' and F.Scott Fitzgerald's 'Great Gatsby'. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition. 1cm split in tulle below zip fastener - easily repaired (minor). 0.5cm x 1cm bald patch in sequins halfway down rear zipper closure (minor).

Lot 233

An Azzedine Alaïa faux astrakhan ensemble, late 1980s, labelled and size 38, the high-waisted pencil skirt under a voluminous cropped jacket with wide sleeves and frogging to fasten, bust 97cm, 38in, waist 66cm, 26in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, label in jacket needs re-stitching

Lot 236

An Azzedine Alaïa 'Houpette' knitted chenille dress, Spring-Summer, 1994, labelled and size M, figure hugging and calf length in contrasting black and white wools, bust approx 86-92cm, 34-36in CONDITION REPORT: good condition, slight soiling at underarm edges and soil spot to right shoulder area (minor), would benefit from dry cleaning

Lot 239

A John Galliano 'Anatomical' waistcoat, Spring-Summer, 1991, labelled John Galliano London, of black viscose, the back knitted to imitate vertebrae and musculature, two oval buttons to fasten, bust approx 86cm, 34in CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, no problems

Lot 240

A rare John Galliano tan elephant cord ensemble, 'The Ludic Game' Autumn-Winter, 1985-86, labelled John Galliano 1, comprising: bolero jacket with cork toggle fasteners, with striped rayon suiting lining used on the front and for extra long under-sleeves; the skirt (which can also be worn as a jacket) with pendant sleeves as decoration, with curved band to skirt hem with functioning button and buttonhole, bust approx 86cm, 34in, waist 71cm, 28in (2)Women's Wear Daily didn't approve this collection. Their post-show review described: 'Clothes that are mind boggling…Imagine if you will skirts that look a bit like jackets with a pair of sleeves dangling down the back…Skirts, jackets and coats with projectiles of fabric that have simply no reason for being. It all adds up to a look that is at once confusing and pure folly' (WWD 19.3.1985)Provenance: One of the models in the show that was paid in clothes. CONDITION REPORT: Overall good condition. Jacket has faint speckled stains to lapel and right sleeve and left shoulder but not immediately noticeable. Small stain above left pocket vent on chest. Soiling on inside of right sleeve that does not show outside. Lining is soiled inside neck edge of jacket and slight soiling to shoulders. Skirt/jacket has faint brown stain inside waistband, outside is good, faint rust marks scattered down skirt front generally but not immediately noticeable, couple of rust speckles on sleeves. Overview: good condition, would benefit from dry cleaning.

Lot 241

A rare John Galliano pinstriped wool dress, 'Fallen Angels' collection, Spring-Summer, 1986, labelled 'John Galliano 1', with elasticated circular patch pockets to the breast, 'Dior' Y-shaped pleats to the skirt which form a peplum at the hips, shirred, elasticated back, bust 92cm, 36in CONDITION REPORT: Good, slight moth damage to rear skirt, 3 small moth holes to front of skirt

Lot 243

A John Galliano blue viscose 'Circle' sailor shirt, Spring-Summer 1987, labelled John Galliano 1, navy blue with black borders to the collar, bust approx 86-92cm, 34-36in CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, very slightly faded from cleaning. Pinhead hole on top of left sleeve.

Lot 248

A John Galliano 'Blanche Dubois' collection ensemble, Spring-Summer, 1988, both with John Galliano, London labels, comprising: high-waisted draped navy viscose skirt, the fullness of the 'Blown Away' hem caught into a band, with buttons to form polonaise folds, and a white cotton blouse with lapels forming a halter-neck, bust 92cm, 36in, waist 71cm, 28in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, no problems.

Lot 250

A John Galliano 'Lace' print chiffon bias cut dress, 'Hairclips' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1988-89, labelled John Galliano London, with asymmetric hem and hand embroidered pink soutache ribbon medallion with chain-stitched centre, bust approx 86cm, 34in CONDITION REPORT: Faint perspiration stains at underarms, otherwise good condition.

Lot 251

A John Galliano wine viscose crêpe bias cut evening gown and accessories, 'Hairclips' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1988-89, John Galliano London label, size 8, the low cowl back with horizontal strap, the skirt with zig zag points to the sides and full skirt with flared godets to hem, with beaded eau de nil stole and Dent pink suede gloves, bust approx 81-86cm, 32-34in (4)This example is one of the first ever Galliano bias-cut dresses ever produced. The AW 88-89 collection was the first time he had incorporated full--blown bias cut 30s inspired evening gowns - something that was to be a leit motif for the rest of his career. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, no problems

Lot 253

A John Galliano knitted 'anatomical' jacket, Autumn-Winter, 1990-91 collection, John Galliano London label, of soft lambswool and angora, with vertebrae and rib patterns, zip fastened, with openings to reveal the shoulders, bust 86cm, 34in CONDITION REPORT: good condition, no problems

Lot 254

A fine John Galliano tailcoat, 'Filibustiers' collection, Spring-Summer, 1993, with black on white John Galliano satin label, size 40, of viscose/rayon linen-effect weave, with black leather rear collar and cuffs, the slashed hanging sleeves revealing pink and ivory damask inner sleeve, the interior seams all beautifully bound in burgundy tape, bust approx 81-86cm, 32-34in On the catwalk an identical example was worn by Helena Christensen.This was Galliano's first collection in Paris under his new backer Faycal Amor. The idea for the collection was of shipwrecked female marauders who wreaked havoc when they came ashore. The clothes in this collection are from specially woven and finished fabrics and are made to a semi couture standard. CONDITION REPORT: Overall good condition, very fresh appearance. Perspiration stains at underarms to moiré lining but this does not go through to the front. Rust spot to rear right sleeve.

Lot 255

A fine and important John Galliano for Givenchy haute couture embroidered lilac satin ballgown, 'Princess and the Pea' collection, Spring-Summer, 1996, Givenchy Haute Couture label, the bolduc handwritten, 'Ete 96, Robe no 12', princess-line with boned strapless bodice, the long trained skirt with appliquéd, couched and embroidered raised-work roses in ivory organza, silk cord, white raffia, crystal beads and pine-cone shaped paillettes, with triple outer tiered flounce of ivory organza, over silk taffeta petticoat with four bands of crin above eight layers of tulle petticoats, forming a classic crinoline shape, bust 86cm, 34in, waist 71cm, 28in In this and following lot Galliano uses his love of historicism to produce gowns more redolent of the 1860s than the 1990s. CONDITION REPORT: faint stain on the left hip area, barely noticeable .Side seams and rear two side seams have been let out. Slight scuffing to the satin at the waist level - but not immediately noticeable., Waist stay internally has been enlarged 4cm one side and 2cm the other. Grosgrain waiststay is slightly soiled

Lot 256

A fine and important John Galliano for Givenchy haute couture black-grey silk ballgown, 'Princess and the Pea' collection, Spring-Summer, 1996, defilé label handwritten, 'Ete 96, At. Colette, Robe no 28, Veronica', with 19th century inspired panelled bodice with decorative corset-like front lacing, rear zip fastening, with faux pet-en-lair front panels inset with pockets, the wide pagoda sleeves trimmed with rippled bands of satin and grosgrain ribbons, chantilly lace, with large bows to the dropped shoulders, the black silk skirt with large swallow-tail panels of shot black-grey silk, nine multiple tiers of black tulle underskirts below, bust 86cm, 34in, waist 59cm, 23in, trained hem approx 370cm, 12ft 2in CONDITION REPORT: Bodice and dress: exterior is good and fresh, binding one breast underwire has worn, one boning strut poking through the top of the binding. Layers 1,2 and 4 of 8 tulle petticoats have tears and repairs where a heel has snagged them.

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