From the private collection of a continental ladyA RUBY AND DIAMOND DRESS RING, BY CARLO ILLARIOThe central cushion-shaped ruby within a calibré-cut ruby surround and between baguette and tapered baguette-cut diamond shoulders with gold reeded detailing, mounted in 18K gold, diamonds approximately 0.50ct total, Italian registry mark '26AL' for Carlo Illario, ring size M½Brothers Carlo, Vincenzo and Luigi Illario were a family of goldsmiths from Valenza. They established a jewellery firm in 1920, with each brother taking on their own position. Carlo, who was trained in Paris, headed the production, Vincenzo was a stone setter who also selected the precious gems, and Luigi was head of administration.The brothers worked under their own name, as well as for bigger firms, and were involved with several different jewellery companies. Some of the most renowned goldsmiths in Valenza practised in their workshop, guaranteeing that each product was crafted with exceptional quality.The company brand from 1935 had been 26AL and the business name was under Carlo Illario e Filli. Traditionally, ownership was handed down from father to son and, in 1953, even Luigi's sons, Giovanni and Vittorio, became a part of the family business. From the end of the 1900s, Vittorio and his sons, Pier Luigi and Edoardo, carried on as owners of the company with the 'Illario 1920' logo.In 1996, Giovanni Illario, along with his sons Carlo and Gian Luca, agreed with Vittorio and his sons to set up a new company that would allow them to be more active in the foreign market. This led to a split in Societa Carlo Illario and to the creation of the new Societa Carlo Luca della Quercia which pursues the traditions and spirit of the original company.Their skilled craftsmanship, reputation of excellence and use of innovative goldsmith techniques caught the attention of well-established retailers. Throughout the 20th century, Casa Illario created unique pieces of haute joaillerie for the most famous Italian maisons: Bvlgari, Cusi, Faraone, Fasano, Fecarotta, Settepassi, Ventrella and others. The company's partnership with Bvlgariwas particularly long standing, running from the 1950s through until the 1970s.In this time, Illario made many pieces for Bvlgari, including the now iconic Serpenti watch bracelet. Elizabeth Taylor was a consistent patron, whose personal style and love of dramatic jewels found its home in Illario's creations.Alongside manufacturing for other brands, Illario produced a vibrant assortment of jewellery under their own name. They were known for their fine gemstones and unusual materials, such as polychrome enamel, tortoiseshell and mother of pearl. Striving to stand out, Illario used new techniques in its pieces, such as black rhodium plating to create a contrasted look. The quality of the craftsmanship is clear in all jewels that bear the Illario name, making them highly desirable.Condition Report: Ruby: of purplish-red hue, medium to dark tone, good transparencyCalibré-cut rubies: of medium to dark tone, overall well matched in colourDiamonds: unable to assess colour due to yellow mount, estimated clarity VSNormal signs of wear, overall in good conditionTotal gross weight approx. 14.2g
