Kerry Taylor Auctions
Lot 199
HRH the Duke of Windsor's Hunting Lord of the Isles tartan evening suit, 1951, woven in shades of green and white wool, the Scholte double-breasted jacket, labelled and indistinctly annotated `HRH the Duke of Windsor', dated 8.6.51 and numbered 2719, with wide lapels, side vents, curved cuffs with three buttons; the matching trousers by Harris of New York, zip fastened, with narrow tapering legs to the ankle; together with a Hawes & Curtis matching backless waistcoat, no 4996, and cummerbund; a Scholte dark green corduroy backless waistcoat, bearing the Duke's name, dated 8.10.47, no 189493; and two Hawes & Curtis white piqué highland style dress-waistcoats, chest 97cm, 38in, waist 74cm, 29in (7)
This suit is one of the most stylish and flamboyant of all of the Duke's wardrobe. He was photographed wearing it in the early 1960s but was to continue to wear it throughout his life. It combined carefully considered tailoring with the dramatic use of an ancient highland tartan. The modern cut combined with the traditional tartan produced an avant-garde and almost shocking ensemble. Every time the Duke ordered a suit it must have posed something of a logistical nightmare. His jackets were made by his favoured London tailor Scholte, his waistcoats, shirts and accessories by Hawes & Curtis, but for his trousers he went to New York for - his 'pants across the sea' as Wallis jokingly called them. This is the suit of a quintessential dandy. As Prince of Wales and throughout his life he loved to lead fashion rather than to follow it. A suit of such dramatic pattern and colour would undoubtedly make him stand out in a crowd (as if he didn't already) though such is the power of the ensemble that few would probably dare to follow his lead - and should they try, they would be unlikely to pull it off with the elan of the Duke!
Provenance: Sotheby's auction of the wardrobe of the Duke of Windsor, lot 2922, 24th February, 1998. CONDITION REPORT: Tartan jacket: good condition, no problems. Tartan waistcoat: good condition, one tiny faint spot stain above left waist pocket (minor), barely visible small soil mark on silk neck return (minor). Cummerbund: good condition, slight discolouration to lining edges, two nice little hidden pockets in the top edges, slight wear to silk lining where prongs from buckle have caught (minor). Trousers: perspiration staining to rear waistband lining, beautifully darned repair to upper inside area of left leg, interestingly right rear pocket has a button closure but the left rear pocket does not. Green corduroy waistcoat: main panels are good, wear to silk facing at neck. 2 white piqué dress waistcoats with highland detailing to pocket flaps - good condition, slight rust marks on one closure strap.
