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Lot 588
Militaria:- A copper-plated brass cigarette box applied with badge of Coldstream Guards and with regimental ribbon under glazed border; a medallion issued by the British Society in the Argentine Republic to celebrate the Prince of Wales's visit to that country in 1925; A Great War medal (no ribbon) to 135735 Private F. Houghton, 42nd Canadian Infantry, also a miniature medal of same; various badges including Royal Marines and two Green Howards; an East German belt plate; a tiny cap pistol; an ARP badge; a red-enamelled Civil Defence Instructor's badge; a part-enamelled Civil Defence Corps badge; a rank crown; a Royal Artillery sweetheart brooch; an enamelled crown coin; various brooches and brass buttons; a 19th century silver-on-copper livery button; a Coldstream Guards regimental Christmas card; two WWI field service post cards dated 1917 and 1918; and a carved chalk plaque with badge of Royal Corps of Signals and inscribed to back "P.O.W. Egypt 1942"
Lot 109
An Elsa Schiaparelli couture embroidered midnight-blue velvet evening jacket, Autumn-Winter, 1937-38, Paris label with date, richly embroidered by Lesage with gilt strip, gilt cord and sequins, blue and pink rhinestones, with three turquoise tinted metal star-burst 'buttons' with brass closure hooks, discreet pocket vents inserted at the hips, small shoulder pads, lined in blue silk, bust 86cm, 34inProvenance: Stella, Lady EatonSee 'Shocking' Schiaparelli by Dilys Blum pp166-7 for a full-page photograph of Lady Clark of Saltwood wearing a similar jacket in burgundy velvet in 1939 at the opening of the Modern Art Museum in New York. CONDITION REPORT: Rear left armhole seam has been crudely re-sewn. Velvet is rubbed at the elbows. Faint soil spots in the velvet down the centre back when held up against the light. Velvet is slightly crushed at the underarms. Overall the appearance is good. Embroidery and beading is generally intact and good. Lining needs re-stitching at left and right underarms. Front right panel: pink rhinestone missing where embroidery band meets the hem. Two more at neck edge above starburst button, another from 'grass' front on shoulder area. One missing from top of left neck edge and three from rear neck edge. A blue stone missing from floret to left of bottom button. Eight further blue stones missing from flowerheads scattered across the panel - not immediately noticeable. Blue stain is slightly rubbed on lower button. Front left panel: missing 13 pink stones and 10 blue scattered across the jacket. Label has splits. Soiling to lining to neck edge and slightly at underarms.
Lot 124
A Jacques Fath couture navy wool day suit, circa 1950, labelled to the jacket, with white organza neckline edging with bow, ruched side panels with double row of buttons; the skirt with similar button adornments and concealed zip, bust 92cm, 36in, waist 71cm, 28in (2) CONDITION REPORT: scattering of moth damage and tiny darned repairs to the jacket - mainly around the right armhole and sleeve top area. The large label is in a strange place - the rear neck. The internal finishes are couture so it may have been moved from the skirt?
Lot 171
A Madame Grès couture navy and red pop art style ensemble, circa 1965, labelled, comprising: sleeveless dress with red bodice lined in navy, with button closure to one shoulder, tie belt above navy skirt; the matching zip fastened jacket with large heart motif, also with two tie belts, bust 81-86cm, 32-34in (4) CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, very fresh. Dress is good condition, silk lining has watermarks and approx. 1.5cm hole to rear hem. Jacket is good condition. End of one belt has been re-stitched.
Lot 201
An Ossie Clark/Celia Birtwell printed chiffon dress, circa 1972, labelled and size 14, in a variation of the 'Tulip' print, with flounced sleeves and button side fastening, bust 92cm, 36in, waist 71cm, 28in CONDITION REPORT: Good condition. Hem has one 5cm tear to front along edge and raw edge for 32cm, easily repaired. One very small hole near hem at rear right. 2cm split at left underarm next to top button loop, easily repaired.
Lot 238
A rare John Galliano Linton Tweed suit, 'The Ludic Game' collection, Spring-Summer, 1985, John Galliano 1 label, the fabric with fine black stripe and white mohair window pane check, the double-breasted jacket cut short and wide with asymmetric lapels, patch pockets, lined in green acetate with striped sleeve linings, with two remaining antler buttons; the above ankle trousers with wide tapering legs, concealed button fly, chest 122cm, 48in, waist 71cm, 28in (2)'The Ludic Game' was Galliano's first catwalk show after graduation. It took place on the 18th March 1985, at The Pillar Hall, Olympia, London, at 6.30pm and 8pm - such was the interest that it had to be shown twice. The looks were unisex. The clothes, which some buyers described as 'experimental', were beautifully made and of expensive fabrics. Deborah Bulleid, his assistant at the time remembers:'John agonised over the Linton Tweeds woollen suiting fabric with white mohair checks because it was so perfect. He thought it resembled a bird's eye view of ploughed fields, with the tufts of mohair representing the sheep's fleece caught in hedges. He kept asking - 'but can we afford it?'. In the end he couldn't resist it.'Pieces from this collection are extremely rare as few were made and most pieces that have come to light were given as payment to the models in the show. CONDITION REPORT: Jacket - lining is stained around inside collar edge. Two buttons are missing and there is a hole in the fabric where one was forcibly removed. This would not be noticeable if a replacement button was re-sewn. Hole in interior pocket/lining. Sleeve linings and cuff areas are soiled. Trousers in good condition, exterior is good, soiling/stains to crotch area.
Lot 240
A rare John Galliano tan elephant cord ensemble, 'The Ludic Game' Autumn-Winter, 1985-86, labelled John Galliano 1, comprising: bolero jacket with cork toggle fasteners, with striped rayon suiting lining used on the front and for extra long under-sleeves; the skirt (which can also be worn as a jacket) with pendant sleeves as decoration, with curved band to skirt hem with functioning button and buttonhole, bust approx 86cm, 34in, waist 71cm, 28in (2)Women's Wear Daily didn't approve this collection. Their post-show review described: 'Clothes that are mind boggling…Imagine if you will skirts that look a bit like jackets with a pair of sleeves dangling down the back…Skirts, jackets and coats with projectiles of fabric that have simply no reason for being. It all adds up to a look that is at once confusing and pure folly' (WWD 19.3.1985)Provenance: One of the models in the show that was paid in clothes. CONDITION REPORT: Overall good condition. Jacket has faint speckled stains to lapel and right sleeve and left shoulder but not immediately noticeable. Small stain above left pocket vent on chest. Soiling on inside of right sleeve that does not show outside. Lining is soiled inside neck edge of jacket and slight soiling to shoulders. Skirt/jacket has faint brown stain inside waistband, outside is good, faint rust marks scattered down skirt front generally but not immediately noticeable, couple of rust speckles on sleeves. Overview: good condition, would benefit from dry cleaning.
Lot 244
A rare and early pair of John Galliano grey cotton gabardine trousers, 'Fallen Angels' collection, Spring-Summer, 1986, large burgundy woven 'John Galliano 1' label, with button fly, wide legs with turn-ups, and floating rear panel lined in striped cotton with waist ties which can be worn in a variety of ways CONDITION REPORT: Good condition. A couple of faint marks top of left leg - not particularly noticeable. A few grey marks to side of right pocket opening (minor).
Lot 259
A good Issey Miyake blue and black woven wool ensemble, 1983, square white on burgundy label, the voluminous 'Samurai' jacket formed from joined woven strips with striped and spotted bands, broad panels forming the front closure, button fastened to the waist; the trousers formed from joined black vertical panels with blue edges, pleating into the ankle cuffs and waist, waist 61cm, 24in (2)This model is illustrated in 'Issey Miyake BodyWorks' Shogakukan, 1983 p119. CONDITION REPORT: good condition, very fresh, no problems
Lot 276
A Comme des Garçons navy wool suit, Autumn-Winter, 2006-7, labelled and size S, comprising: navy self-striped wool jacket with 'torn away' effect upper sleeves, overlaid with a black damask corset with tabbed hem, trimmed with ribbons and bows, single button to fasten; the trousers of navy and black striped wool, one leg overlaid with black and white printed polka dot cotton with flamenco style flounces (2)
Lot 28
A rare ivory satin doublet and hose worn to the coronation of King George IV, 19th July, 1821, the doublet's front panels adorned with couched gilt threads in diamond repeats in 'van-dyke' fringed vertical bands, domed bullion covered buttons, the mancherons, sleeves and tabbed hem applied with gilt braid and lace, high stand collar, rosettes to the shoulders; with matching trunk hose, chest approx 97cm, 38in, waist 112cm, 44in (2)The lavish and expensive costumes worn by the aristocracy to attend George IV's coronation were Elizabethan/Jacobean themed to recall England's past heritage. George was held in low esteem at the time due to his treatment of his estranged wife, Caroline of Brunswick, and his attempts to divorce her. She unsuccessfully attempted to participate in the event. Parliament voted the astonishing sum of £240,000 towards the cost of the ceremony (George III's coronation had only cost £70,000) in the hopes that it would rekindle his popularity. Provenance: 2nd Earl Camden, 1759-1840, created a Marquess in 1812. CONDITION REPORT: Doublet and hose are lined in white cotton, lining is generally good condition. There are perspiration stains and splits in silk at both underarms. The doublet side seams may have been taken in, possibly a last minute alteration? Gold lace and braid is lustrous and bright. The lining has darts added to reduce volume - again possibly a last minute adjustment. Perspiration stains at underarms on lining. Breeches: generally good condition. Very slight staining to cotton lining at crotch, a few small spot stains on waistband lining, one small rear right waist button is worn. Stain to silk on far left gold strip and 2 of the front strips. Small hole in satin at crotch. Very generous size, waist is 42in.
Lot 33
Princess Margaret's Horrockses Fashions printed cotton summer dress, 1967, with 'By Royal Appointment' label, comprising: short strapless sundress with boned bodice and matching button-backed overbodice with bow to neck, bust 86cm, 34in, waist 61cm, 24in; together with a newspaper clipping and a Daily Mail supplement showing the Princess wearing the ensemble with Lord Snowdon on a visit to the Bahamas in 1967 (4)Provenance: Between 1990 and 2001 the vendor's father was head gardener at Alanbay Park when it was owned by The Hon Mrs Jean Wills (née Bowes-Lyon) and Major John Wills (of Wills tobacco fame). Mrs Wills was first cousin to HM the Queen and a Lady in Waiting to HRH Princess Margaret and they regularly played host to the royal family. This dress was included in a bundle of old clothes belonging to Princess Margaret that Mrs Wills had been asked to sort through and either to donate to charity or burn. The vendor's mother picked out this particular dress thinking her daughter (who would have been a teenager at the time) might like it. Suffice to say the young girl declared she 'wouldn't be seen dead in it' and it has remained in a drawer wrapped in tissue paper ever since. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, no problems
Lot 47
A green satin and whitework ensemble, circa 1820, the spencer bodice in two shades of green satin, with puffed mancherons, trimmed in blonde silk lace, with matching waist belt, reticule with cut steel button closure and chain; pumps labelled 'Rimmevaux, Rue de la Ferme des Mathurins, Paris'; assorted satin bows and a band (possibly for a cap); the muslin skirt with deep bands of whitework and ruffled bands to hem, bust 81cm, 32in, high waist 74cm, 29in (qty)A similar spencer and muslin skirt ensemble is illustrated in 'Costume Parisien', dated 1817. CONDITION REPORT: ·Bodice: satin is clean and fresh in appearance. 3 faint yellow discolourations in satin above left cuff area. Small yellow stain to bound edge of mancheron. Faint perspiration stains at underarms showing inside, barely visible outside due to mancherons and they are faint anyway. Sleeves may have been narrowed at some point but seams are all hand-sewn. Very faint discolourations on right sleeve above cuff area also but very hard to see and impossible to photograph from the outside, but visible on the inside. Blonde edging lace I feel is later added as more typical of 1850s. ·Belt: good condition, no problems·Fichu: initialled in fine cross-stitch 'AB'. Overall good condition. A couple of finely done, small darned repairs. 12cm panel of near matching embroidered edging has been introduced. Embroidered edge has 2 breaks, 2cm and 1cm, and the occasional hole.·Purse: good condition, very fresh, no problems. ·3 dark green miscellaneous bows: good condition·1 bright green bow attached to satin band: good condition·Muslin skirt: holes in a line at upper drawstring waist where waistband was altered (minor). Overall clean, white, nicely starched. 3 darned repairs in plain muslin to centre back of skirt. ·Shoes: both have signs of having been lightly used. Ribbons are frayed at edges. Left shoe - ribbon binding at upper inside edge near heel has separated from the satin approx. 1cm (minor).
Lot 51
An elaborately embroidered gentleman's court coat, French, 1860-80, lavishly worked to shape with gold thread ribbons, fleur de lys, short stand collar, scarlet wool cuffs, lined in scarlet silk faille, with fleur de lys embroidered buttons, medal loops (beckets) to upper chest, chest approx 97cm, 38in CONDITION REPORT: Silk lining is distressed, slight moth damage, lacking one chest button, one sleeve seam needs re-stitching at the shoulder. Embroidery overall is generally good. Wear to silver edging embroidery front left edge near hem. Seam needs re-stitching and 2cm split at edge of top of left shoulder.
Lot 90
A Jeanne Lanvin couture coral silk crêpe de chine day dress, Winter 1933-34, large woven dated label, no 50538, with rectangular detachable top stitched collar with neck ties, square top-stitched patch pockets, ties to the wrists, bust 92cm, 36in (2)Provenance: From the wardrobe of Maryse Astraudo and her daughter Anne-Marie Astraudo, wife of Christian Bricard. CONDITION REPORT: Soiled from storage, in need of cleaning, mark on detachable collar from button of blue and white crepe day ensemble, lot 76. Grime marks on skirt front which would probably clean out, barely visible perspiration stain at left underarm. Good condition.
Lot 206
A 19th century coromandel and brass-bound vanity case set by Lund of Cornhill, London with silver set bottles boxes and mother-of-pearl manicure set, and push release button button for hidden jewellery compartment CONDITION REPORT: The two large scent bottles unmarked as are the two smaller ink bottles. The soap dish, flannel box & pair of rouge pots are marked London 1857. The makers mark is FD for and retailed by Lund of Cornhill and not by as catalogued. The overall condition is good, box , glass & silver, however one silk lined drawer has areas of ink staining
Lot 1497
A circa 1900 French lacquered brass carriage clock by R & Co of Paris, having an unsigned white enamel dial, visible platform escapement, push button hour and half-hour repeat, twin barrel going eight day movement striking on a gong, signed backplate, h.13.5cm (handle down) Condition Report / Extra Information Balance wheel rotates when shaken.Glass good.In running order.Dial good.Strike works but is out of synch.Push button not working.No key.
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110986 item(s)/page