A three stone diamond ring, the three graduating old cut diamonds in spaced rub over gypsy settings total estimated weight of diamonds 0.60ct, plain unmarked shank tests for 18ct gold, size R, gross weight 6.9g The diamonds are bright and lively with the pleasant individuality of 19th century cuts. The setting makes measuring inexact due to the sides being hidden, & colour and clarity assessments also as it is impossible to see the stones from all sides. With those provisos, these are the ESTIMATES:Dia 1 - 5.1 x 4.6 x 3.5 mm, I/J, P1 (no black inclusions)dia 2 - 4.1 x 3.6 x 2.5 mm, I/J, SI or betterdia 3 - 4.2 x 3.6 x 2.7 mm, J/K, P3 (no black inclusions) The setting has wear and scuffs commensurate with age and having been worn with other rings, but is sound and bright.
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A 9ct gold hinged locket and chain, the locket of oval form with engraved four flower motif, the reverse plain with brushed satin finish, triangular bale, length with bale 4.5cm, Sheffield import marks for 9ct gold,1986, to a belcher link chain with bolt ring fastening, London hallmarks for 9ct gold 1985, length 50cm, gross weight 11.6g (2)
A fancy link necklace, comprising alternating short lengths of textured byzantine link chain and hollow pierced box sections, to a bolt ring fastening, unhallmarked but tests to gold, with part marked jump ring, length 47cm, weight 26.7g There is a good deal of tarnishing on the chain, so it would benefit from a good clean. The gold is variable in colour, which may partly be due to tarnish; acid testing gives differing results, but mainly for mid-quality gold (14 / 15ct). Some of the fancy byzantine links have loose central encircling parts, but all links appear to be supple and secure. The clasp and jump ring are probably not original.
A garnet fringe necklace and matched suite of garnet jewellery, the necklace spectacle set to the front with a graduated line of cushion or round facetted garnets suspending graduated rectangular cushion cut stones, to a fine link backchain, length 41cm; also a vintage bracelet with eleven graduated cushion cut garnets claw set in line to a narrow bar link back chain with oval barrel clasp, safety chain, length 17.5cm; a pair of single stone round facetted garnet screwback earrings, stamped '9ct' and a three stone ring, with graduated oval cut garnets spaced by pairs of white hardstone chips, to a broad band, size Q, Birmingham hallmarks for 9ct gold (4)
A necklace length 18ct gold 'Double Albert' watch chain with T-bar suspending a hardstone swivel fob, the curb link watch chain, London import marks on both clasp ends and T-bar jump ring, 1980, the swivel fob set with a bloodstone and a cornelian, and with worn marks suggesting 9ct gold; length as necklace 39cm length of pendant fob 4.9cm, gross weight 30.8g
Two circular Victorian gem set brooches - one coral, one with a garnet and diamond flower, the first of raised and dished form and set to the centre with a 15mm bouton coral, with inner ring of ropetwist and flowers, and bead and ropetwist outer edging, yellow metal tests for 18ct gold, back with vacant glazed compartment, diameter 3.8cm; the second brooch with all over bobble texture, flat centre and rounded edges, set with a trefoil of small oval cabochon garnets to a polished stem with rose cut diamond termination, back hollow, yellow metal tests for 15ct gold, diameter 2.5cm (2)
A large diamond set buckle ring, the frame pavé set with six graduating old cut diamonds, the prong with a further three diamonds, the belt loop with three diamonds and one belt hole filled with a star set diamond, total diamond weight approximately 0.75ct, the 8mm wide band marked '9ct gold' and tests for this, size Z (centre), gross weight 30g
A cameo ring depicting the head of a classical Bacchante, the shell cameo of the young woman, a follower of Bacchus (god of wine, revelry and ecstasy), in profile, with vine leaves entwined in her hair, set in a deep recessive collet to bifurcated shoulders and a plain shank, size O, unmarked yellow metal tests for 14ct gold
An antique guard chain stamped '9c' and three pairs of earpendants, the rectangular section oval belcher links with a lobster claw termination, no connecting ring, length 156cm, tests for 9ct gold; the first pair of earrings also 19th century (a.f.), also stamped '9c' and testing for 9ct gold, gross weight of these two 61g; together with a pair of aventurine pendant eardrops, length 6.4cm, and a pair of moss agate bead and pearl earpendants, length 3.1cm (4)
An 1870 diamond and enamel memorial ring with hinged compartment, the ring with a circular head holding a Greek cross set with five rose cut diamonds on a black enamel ground, hinged to reveal a glazed compartment containing a contemporary photograph, the tapered shoulders also enamelled and spelling 'In Mem...Ory Of'; full Birmingham 18ct gold hallmarks including duty mark, ring size J, period leather ring box
A modern diamond cluster ring set in 18ct white gold, the central claw set round brilliant cut diamond, laser marked to the girdle 'CD 16-15851', surrounded by 16 pavé set diamonds, the shoulders each with two rows of pavé set diamonds to a plain shank, stamped inside 'CD 16-15851 750 0.52', London minimum marks for 18ct gold, size I, accompanied by an insurance valuation dated 2018 stating a value of £1750.00
A turquoise and diamond ring together with a turquoise pendant and earstud suite, the Edwardian ring set with an old round brilliant cut diamond between two horizontal oval cabochon turquoises, with a single cut or rose cut diamond at each end, to a carved scrolling gallery and engraved shoulders, size M, yellow metal tests to at least 15ct gold; the pendant and earstuds each with an oval cabochon turquoise collet set to a double ropetwist border, the pendant with a bifurcated suspensory loop, and with a 9ct gold flattened curb link chain by Unoaerre, common control assay mark, earring posts stamped '375' (3)
A pair of Spanish filigree work pendant earrings and a similar style band ring, each earring hook fronted by a hemispherical polished boss and suspending a pierced drop form with a filigree wirework, bead and ropetwist flowerhead design, length 3.8cm, yellow metal tests for 18ct gold, cased; together with a pierced filigree band ring with ropetwist edges and undulating wave forms, ring size M½, rose metal tests for 14ct gold (2)
A Victorian lozenge-shaped hinged locket, of tiered form on both sides and linear beaded decoration, the front with applied monogram in gothic letters, the interior with two oval glazed panels containing photographs of a young woman and a little girl, suspensory loop and further jump ring; yellow metal tests for gold, length of lozenge 4.2cm, overall length 5.4cm, gross weight 20.4g
A Victorian single stone gypsy ring set in 18ct gold, the round brilliant cut diamond of approximately 0.50ct star set to tapering shoulders and plain shank, Chester hallmarks for 18ct gold, 1884, size R½, gross weight 6.6g Within the limitations of the setting, the diamond measures approximately 5.35mm diameter, 3.28mm depth. The yellow gold all around the stone makes colour assessment extremely difficult - possibly J/K; the stone is bright and lively with no eye-visible, large or glaring inclusions, perhaps SI1 or even VS2. The setting has wear and tear commensurate with its age, and the shank is relatively thin at the back, though still robust. The diamond is a 20th century cut so not contemporary with the setting.
An 18ct gold mid Victorian navette shaped mourning ring, with a vertical elongated star set rose cut diamond on a black enamel background, bordered by twenty pavé set half pearls, the flared shoulders decorated with scrollwork on black enamel within a pale blue enamel border, tapering to plain shank, Birmingham hallmarks for 18ct gold, 1869, size O, weight 3.5g
An aquamarine and diamond pendant on a chain, the round facetted aquamarine in a millegrain edged collet to an open linear border ring of rose cut diamonds, to a tapered diamond set bale, white and yellow precious metal, marks partially struck and not recognised, to an associated fine belcher link white metal chain with Dutch marks for 14ct gold 1906-1953; length of pendant with bale 1.8cm, length of chain 44cm
A 20th century diamond cluster ring set in 18ct white gold, the central row of five baguette cut diamonds bordered by a total of fourteen round brilliant cut diamonds, claw set to a basket gallery, with tapered shoulders and plain shank, London hallmarks for 18ct gold, 1975, size Q, total estimated weight of diamonds approximately 2.15ct
An 18ct gold emerald and diamond flowerhead cluster ring, the round facetted emerald in the centre of six petals each set with a round brilliant cut diamond, and two more smaller ones at the top of the bifurcated shoulders, reeded shank, size O½, white on yellow 18ct gold, London import hallmarks 1987, in a gold-tooled pink leather ring box
An emerald and diamond 3 stone ring, the square emerald cut emerald between two kite shaped diamonds, all collet set, the stone bezels pavé set with rose cut diamonds, to a plain shank, size M, unhallmarked but stamped '18ct plat' two rose cut diamonds missingAlteration to the catalogue entry:The three principal stones - the emerald cut emerald and the two trilliant cut diamonds - are all claw set; they rest on a design feature of the gallery - a continuous millegrain edged band set with a line of rose cut diamond points (two lacking).The emerald is a bright, clear peacock green, and is (for an emerald) remarkably clean: the principal inclusions are a large but wispy veil that goes across the middle of the stone, and an internal fracture that catches the light at certain angles; there are minor nibbles and abrasions on some crown facet edges. The emerald measures 6.41 x 6.15 x 3.02mmThe trilliant cut diamonds make an excellent foil, and are lively stones; assessed (with difficulty due to the setting) as approximately I/J colour, and VS clarity. They measure approximately 5.4mm along the sides abutting the emerald, and 2.8mm from the centre of that line to the outer point.The line of little rose cut diamonds is there for the design accent not for the quality of the diamonds.The claws are all secure, the setting without undue wear, though the shank appears to have been resized - there is a blob of gold solder on the inside, and it is possible that the length with the stamp on is not original; and there are two more solder lines closer to the front, at least one of which has 14ct solder; however the shank tests for 18ct gold.The ring size is M - or in the US 6½, in Europe 53
A 9ct gold emerald and diamond half eternity style ring, comprising four round facetted emeralds spaced with three round brilliant cut diamonds, pavé set between solid sides, tapered shoulders to a plain shank, Birmingham convention marks for 9ct gold, estimated diamond weight 0.15ct, size P
A single stone old cut diamond ring, the plain shank swelling at the front and cast into a sunburst of raised rays, the tips of which form claws to hold the old cushion cut diamond, yellow metal stamped '18ct', size N; estimated weight of diamond approximately 0.50cts The ring is in good condition for its age with appropriate scuffs and wear but nothing material. The diamond is secure though several of the claws are at their extremity; the metal tests for 18ct gold. The setting makes assessment of the diamond extremely difficult: the colour is approximately J/K; there are some chips, nibbles or naturals around the girdle, and a small table nick, and loupe-visible abrasion, but internally the stone looks clean, probably VS.
A pearl and diamond ring together with a sapphire and pearl brooch, the ring comprising a central 8mm bouton pearl surrounded by nineteen rose cut diamonds in crimp collets to a scalloped gallery and plain shank, unhallmarked white and yellow metal assumed to be gold, size L; the bar brooch comprising a central flowerhead containing a round facetted sapphire surrounded by eight millegrain set half pearls between two flat topped tapering bars, stamped '15ct' with attached safety chain, length of brooch 6cm and weight 5g, both presented in vintage cases (2)
A diamond three stone ring and a ruby and diamond five stone ring, the first claw set with three graduated old round brilliant cut diamonds, to a coronet gallery and plain tapered shank size P, white on yellow metal stamped '18ct, Plat'; the second with three graduated round cut rubies spaced by two old round brilliant cut diamonds in a flying claw setting and tapered shank size L, hallmarked 18ct gold, Birmingham, date letter worn (2)
An asymmetric diamond, sapphire and 18ct white gold cluster ring, of oval outline with one side composed of an undulating curve of six pear cut sapphires, the rest of sixteen round brilliant cut diamonds set at varying heights, on a raised cage gallery to a plain tapered shank size Q½, London hallmarks for 18ct gold, total estimated weight of diamonds approximately 1.25cts, gross weight 7.86g
Cartier - An 18ct tri-colour gold 'Trinity de Cartier Classic' rolling ring, the three interlinked 5mm bands each of a different colour gold - yellow, white and rose - London hallmarks for 18ct gold,1978 on the yellow and signed 'Cartier' on the white, size H centre, weight 16.8g, presented in the original red Cartier case Other Notes: Designed by Louis Cartier in 1924 at the request of the French artist, novelist, poet and filmmaker ,Jean Cocteau, the Trinity ring is a cult classic and one of the Maison’s signature pieces of jewellery. The three different colour bands are said to represent love, friendship and fidelity and this apparently differs in meaning to the traditional so-called 'Russian wedding' rings, where the three colours are said to symbolise the past, present and future, or the Holy Trinity. The design may be almost a century old and however you interpret the colours, the Trinity ring remains one of Cartier's most iconic creations.
An 18ct gold hand made diamond ring in the style of Elizabeth Gage, the ring of solid concave form 14mm wide at the head and tapering to 7.5mm at the back, with a raised tubular edge, the central round brilliant cut diamond of approximately 1.80ct in a raised rub over setting flanked by a further two round brilliant cut diamonds and a pear shaped diamond in similar settings, London hallmarks for 18ct gold 1995, size L (centre), weight 11.5g, cased The ring is in sound condition, but has scuffs and scratches to the mount commensurate with age; the diamonds are all secure, but their deep, gold collet settings make measuring them, colour and clarity assessments extremely difficult. The principal diamond measures approximately 7.7-7.9mm diameter, and 4.65mm deep; it has a white gold upper edge to the collet, colour assessed as approximately J; clarity P3, but no screamingly obvious inclusions to the layman's naked eye; there are a couple of small, loupe-visible nibbles to crown facet edges, one associated with a surface-rising internal fracture, but otherwise the crown facets are clean and sharp-edged. The diamond is a bright stone of impressive size.All the diamonds appear to be well-matched, though the smaller ones - 2 pears and 4 round brilliants - are cleaner, and possibly whiter than the principal stone - though the smaller the stone the more dominating the yellow gold collet.The ring is fully hallmarked, but no maker's mark or sponsor's mark, which is not obligatory.Size L is equivalent to US size 6.Unlike many of these style broad band rings, this one is sufficiently tapered at the back to be comfortable to wear, and sits well on the finger.
A diamond pierced cluster ring, of flowerhead form, with a central old cut diamond collet set in an eight point star pierced surround with a continuous border of eight similar old cut diamond petals, plain tapered shank size J½, unmarked white on yellow metal tests for platinum and 18ct gold; total estimated weight of diamonds approximately 0.75cts
An 18ct gold sapphire and diamond navette shaped ring, with a vertical line of three graduated sapphires in the centre and a surround of twenty old cut diamonds, low pierced gallery with decorated shoulders and plain shank, size L, rubbed Birmingham hallmarks for 18ct gold, length of ring head 2.5cm, cased
A nine stone ruby and diamond ring and a seven stone sapphire and diamond ring, the first designed as a tapered line of bead-edged fields each holding a stone, with three graduated oval cut rubies flanked by three old cut diamonds on either side, to an Edwardian style carved scrolling mount, white on yellow metal stamped '18ct', size N; the second with a uniform line of three round brilliant cut diamonds alternating with four round cut sapphires, London hallmarks for 18ct gold,1972, size O½ (2)
A Victorian double snake ring set with a diamond and a ruby, the entwined serpents, their heads each with a round facetted stone, interlocked at the front of the ring, their bodies forming the reeded shank, Birmingham hallmarks for 18ct gold, 1897, size N The ring is in good sound condition for age, just minor wear; both stones are secure; the diamond has a loupe-visible small chip and the ruby loupe-visible facet edge abrasion. Both parts of the shank are hallmarked, so it is possible that originally the two snakes came apart. Gross weight 4.95g
An oval diamond and enamel Kundan-Meena ring, the rub over set oval facetted and foil backed diamond measuring approximately 16 x 13mm within a bezel of dark blue enamel decoration, the closed back lavishly enamelled with white, red, blue and green foliate and symmetrical designs, the shoulders decorated with green and red enamelled flowers, to a plain shank, unhallmarked yellow metal tested using X ray fluorescence spectroscopy as an alloy of 98% pure gold, 0.8% copper and 1.2% silver, size J-L, Provenance: The property of an Indian family for three generations Other Notes: In the traditional Rajasthani Kundan style of jewellery, flat, facetted or uncut stones are set in high carat gold jewellery using foil backings often made of gold leaf. Meenakari, or enamelling, is the art of decorating jewellery using bright coloured enamel in intricate designs. Over the centuries the two skills became combined, and the result is Kundan-Meena jewellery. In the 17th century, the Mogul emperor Shah Jahan invited Persian enamelling specialists to train his own master-craftsmen. His artisans combined the techniques of this Persian art with Indian styles and colours. The resulting pieces of jewellery had brilliant coloured enamel on one side and magnificent hand-cut diamonds, rubies, emeralds or sapphires on the other side. This new style of jewellery flourished during the Mogul era and was hugely popular with Rajasthan royalty. Its popularity remains to this day and fine examples of Kundan-Meena jewels are in great demand by connoisseurs and collectors worldwide. The technique of Meenakari requires a high level of skill. Delicate and intricate designs of flowers, birds, animals or motifs are etched or engraved onto the piece. This creates walls and grooves which are filled with coloured enamel dust. The pieces are placed in a furnace and the intense heat melts the dust with the molten liquid filling the grooves. The walls prevent the spread of the enamel, maintaining the pattern or design. This process is repeated with each individual colour due to their different melting temperatures. Colours with the highest melting temperatures are applied first as they will be re-fired with each additional colour. Timing is critical, and the risk of damage to the previously fired colours increases with every new colour added. The rejection rate for damaged items is very high - up to 30%. After the last colour has been fired, the object is cooled and polished with agate. The depth of the grooves determines the play of light, and the number of different colours on a piece is an indication of the level of skill of the craftsman and the quality of the item. This ring is decorated with blue, green, white and red enamel. Red takes the least amount of firing and is the most difficult of all the colours to apply. Items with red enamel have the highest rejection rate of all. Both Kundan setting and Meenakari are very labour-intensive tasks which require the skills of highly trained, specialist craftsmen. This ring is a fabulous example of this ancient art and may well have taken up to three months to produce - from the design (chitrakari) and drawings through to the finished piece - truly a jewel fit for a Mogul emperor.
Sapphire and diamond 14ct yellow gold ring , the central mixed cut dark blue sapphire measuring approx. 5mm x 7mm, claw set to cluster surround of 12 small diamonds, plain polished 14ct yellow gold shank, gross weight approx. 5.4g, ring size P, together with a matching pendant, central mixed cut dark blue sapphire measuring approx. 5mm x 6mm, claw set to cluster surround of 12 small diamonds, total diamond weight approx. 0.50 carat, gross weight approx. 3.5g. For condition reports please go to www.peterwilson.co.uk
French Art Deco diamond and ruby oval cluster ring , the oval cluster comprising round old cut and rose cut diamonds, grain set with channel set rubies in a star-ray design, border or rose cut diamonds, triple wire yellow gold shank, French marks to reverse, ring size J. For condition reports please go to www.peterwilson.co.uk
Synthetic Ruby and diamond cluster 18ct gold ring , the oval mixed cut ruby weighing approximately 1 carat, white rubover setting, the oval cluster surround rubover and grain set with a total of 10 round old cut diamonds, weighing a total of approximately 0.50 carat, platinum settings, 18ct yellow gold shank, size P 1/2. For condition reports please go to www.peterwilson.co.uk
Diamond fancy four cluster cross over 18ct white gold ring with diamond set shoulders, the 4 rectangular clusters comprising baguette and round brilliant cut diamonds with round brilliant cut diamonds to split shoulders, total diamond weight approx. 3 carats, claw settings, hallmarked 18ct white gold shank, gross weight approx. 8.8g, ring size U. For condition reports please go to www.peterwilson.co.uk
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