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Lot 274
A rare and important John Galliano 'Incroyables' coat, Saint Martin's degree show collection, July 1984, un-labelled, of dark-grey herring-bone weave cotton, the over-sized frock-coat with one curved and one notched lapel, the wide sleeves with cuffs in striped moiré, the two large poacher pockets are open at the top but also with diagonal side vents for access, decorative handkerchief-like printed cotton faced panels hang above them, long centre-back vent edged in contrasting cottons, the trailing hem and tails can be buttoned-back in a variety of styles, chest approx 117cm, 46in Galliano's degree show, 'Les Incroyables & Les Merveilleuses', was something of a 'fashion moment', which launched his career. The clothes were inspired by post French revolutionary dress, which Galliano had researched at the Victoria and Albert Museum. He said of this collection: 'I was looking like this down-and-out French tramp. Living it, breathing it. Drawing by candlelight. Producing parchment paper stained with tea. Drawing with a calligraphy pen and sepia ink. I could just imagine these fantastic creatures marching, running across the wet shiny cobblestones of Paris....My show was very styled up when everyone else was being very minimalist - very Armani. The idea of these wonderful terrors tearing down aristocratic curtains and turning them into waistcoats and coats, inspired by the French Romantics'. The show took place at Jubilee Hall in Covent Garden. Each of the students showed half a dozen or so pieces each, and Galliano was selected by the lecturers as the grand finale. Joan Burnstein of leading London retailer Browns was watching in the audience. She recalled: 'The atmosphere was so exciting. Some (of the 24 or so student collections) were pretty bad. Then, all of a sudden, these wonderful pieces came out.' Galliano's rebels strode out with white eye-shadow, frizzed and disheveled hair, held in place by knitted cotton headbands with revolutionary cockades and matching waist sashes. The frilly oversized shirts were worn under patterned waistcoats with pennies used as buttons, combined with giant frock coats, riding boots or flat leather shoes with large tongues and bows. Mrs Burnstein approached Galliano after the show, offering to buy the whole collection and giving over to him the Brown's front windows. Occasionally waistcoats from this collection appear on the market (which were more easily combined into an everyday 1980s wardrobe) but very few of these swashbuckling coats seem to have been made and only two others are known to have survived - one of which was purchased at Browns by the singer Diana Ross. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition. Small green stain to rear of one lapel (minor), would benefit from dry-cleaning as slightly musty from storage. One Islamic coin button, the others mock wood. Lacking 2 buttons at hem. Printed cotton/striped moiré are fresh and good.
Lot 790
Two UK crown 1887/88 F, a double florin 1890, half-crowns 1874/1900 and an Australian florin 1911, Indo-Chinese French Piastre de Commerce 1898, two China Junk one dollar Sun Yat-Sen, pin dish set with a seven Mace of two Candareens coin, Kiang Nan Province and another pin dish set with a Marie-Theresa thaler (11)
Lot 266
A lot containing shell cameo brooch of female in 9ct rope style setting, agate brooch in gilt metal setting, to/w a damaged coin brooch and drilled four pence piece Condition Report Five Cents Hong Kong brooch has a damaged clasp; otherwise slight wear and/or deterioration Cameo brooch -clasps appear unsatisfactory, no easily apparent indication of cracks/chips to cameo
Lot 217
*Byzantine, Zoe and Theodora (21 April – 12 June 1042), clipped gold histamenon, facing bust of the Virgin holding nimbate head of Christ before her rev., facing crowned busts of Zoe and Theodora flanking a labarum, 1.07g (cf. DO p. 732, 1 = Grierson 911 = Whiting 309-10; ANS 977.158.932; Hunt collection, Sotheby’s New York, 1990, 765, apparently same dies; S. 1827), comprising the central part only of the coin which was clipped presumably in antiquity to be fitted into jewellery; apart from the clipping and a few minor marks, extremely fine and extremely rare. Zoe (c. 978-1050) was one of the most remarkable of Byzantine empresses. She ruled for seven and a half weeks with her sister Theodora by virtue of their status as porphyrogenitai (literally, “born into the purple”) of the Macedonian dynasty founded by Basil I. As a 23 year old imperial princess she was selected by her uncle Basil II to marry the Holy Roman emperor Otto III but the marriage never took place as Otto died unexpectedly, shortly before she arrived in Italy in 1002. She was married three times, to Romanus III (1028-34), Michael IV (1034-41) and finally to Constantine IX (1042-1050) and was empress/regent for her adoptive son Michael V (1041-42). She is depicted in a famous mosaic in Hagia Sophia with her husband Constantine IX flanking Christ Pantocrator and she was evidently known for her great beauty. Her relationship with her younger sister Theodora was strained and her marriage to Constantine IX finally allowed her to stand back from the administration of matters of state. This type of coin was unknown until 1953 when a small hoard was discovered containing approximately eight examples (see Grierson p. 199 and Sotheby’s catalogue of the Hunt collection of Byzantine coins, 5 December 1990, lot 765). The present coin, albeit heavily clipped, is possibly the only surviving coin of their joint reign that has survived apart from the few coins in the 1953 hoard.
Lot 260
Ottoman, Murad III, sultani, Misr 982h (Pere 273); Mahmud I, zeri mahbub, Misr 1143h (Pere 562); Mustafa III, zeri mahbub, Islambul (11)85h (Pere 617); Mahmud II, quarter-zeri mahbub, Qustantiniya 1223h, year 5 (KM 605); unofficial gold coin, Qustantiniya 1223h, year 21, with ‘860’ in numerals below toughra; ‘Abd al-‘Aziz, 100 kurush, Qustantiniya 1277h, year 2 (KM 696); gold 10 qirsh, Misr 1277h, year 12 (KM 259), fine to extremely fine (7)
Lot 47
*The Master F.V., Duarte, 5th Duke of Guimaraes (1541-76) and nephew of King John III of Portugal, bronze-gilt medal, half-length portrait left in armour, holding baton and helmet; signed below right arm, f.v., rev., Athena standing left, holding spear, olive branch and shield (by Bombarda), 68mm (Arm. III, 99, A; Lamas 2 (an electrotype); cf. Attwood 655), pierced, an old cast with later incised inscriptions [Clifford lot 132]. Ex Jacques Schulman, Amsterdam, Auction 161, 31 October 1927, lot 19. The reverse is by the Emilian artist Bombarda (as Arm. III, 95, C) and does not belong to the obverse. Nevertheless, as a mule, Armand cited an example in the Royal Coin Cabinet in Parma so the combination of obverse and reverse is known. However, the present medal has been intriguingly adapted at a later date so as to pretend to depict King Edward V of England (the elder of the two “Princes in the Tower”) who reigned for two months in 1483 between the death of his father Edward IV and the crowning of his uncle Richard III. The baton held by the sitter is incised r.a. regnavit menses ii (“He reigned for two months as King of England”), the bust itself is incised aet xiii (“aged 13”, Edward V’s age when king) and on the helmet there is the date ann. 1483. With renewed interest in the English monarchy following the Restoration and the discovery of children’s bones in the Tower of London in 1674 which were assumed to be those of the princes (and are buried in Westminster Abbey) it is tempting to believe that someone at that time (or of course later) created this medal out of one with a very appropriate obverse inscription and with a portrait of a young prince - but as the portrait shows, not young enough!
Lot 14
A COMMEMORATIVE SILVER STRAWBERRY DISH WITH DE VALERA COIN TO CENTRE, Dublin 1973, mark of Jewellery & Metal Manufacturing Co., the lobbed circular dish, with coin to centre depicting bust of Eamon deValera surrounded with inscription 'Eamon de Valera, Uachtarán na hÉireann 1959-1973', (c.5ozs.). 12.5cm diameter
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