SAPPHIRE, RUBY AND DIAMOND CLASPDesigned as a flowerhead, the central cushion-shaped ruby, weighing 4.07 carats, within six petals, each set with a cushion-shaped sapphire and single-cut diamond surround, the sapphires weighing 2.03, 2.07, 2.52, 3.03, 3.10 and 3.25 carats, diameter approximately 3.7cm, gems illustrated unmountedFootnotes:The six sapphires accompanied by reports from SSEF stating they are of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating. Report numbers 119993, 119992, 119991, 119990, 119989, 119988 all dated 13th December 2021.The ruby accompanied by a report from SSEF stating it is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating. Report number 119987 dated 13th December 2021.Sapphires from Kashmir were first discovered in the late 1870s/early 1880s high up in the snow-clad Great Himalayas of north-western India where a landslide revealed hitherto unknown deposits in a rock valley 4500m above sea level. By 1882 the Maharaja of Kashmir had taken control of the mine that could only be worked from July-September each year due to the high altitude and near perpetual heavy snowfall. Because of its remote location mining techniques were always primitive. This first mine, known as the Old Mine, was really just a series of shallow pits sunk into the rock. Apparently, the first specimens were so huge and abundant, they were studded in places as thick as 'plums in a pudding' and could be plucked from the rock. By 1887 the Old Mine was nearly exhausted and a New Mine, on the valley floor 250m below, gave up some fine sapphires but they were generally of lesser quality, size and quantity. The area was worked sporadically until the late 1920s/early 1930s but the glory years of the 1880s were never repeated. Legend tells that the finest stones from this 30-40 year period were all acquired by the Maharaja and jealously guarded in the chambers of the Kashmir State Treasury. British geologist, Charles Stewart Middlemiss, Superintendent of the Mineral Survey of Jammu and Kashmir State from 1917 until 1930, recorded seeing some of this fabled hoard, describing the sacks of rough and cut gems as a 'king's ransom', with some sapphires the size of polo balls.The ruby is important for many cultures and historically has been a talisman of power, protection, wealth, status, a cure for illness and a symbol of peace. The Sanskrit name, ratnaraj or 'King of Precious Stones' given to rubies very much embodies the value bestowed upon this gemstone. For over 800 years, the finest rubies have been unearthed in the Mogok Stone Tract region of Burma, now Myanmar. Burmese rubies are prized for their vibrant fiery colour which is caused by high levels of chromium saturating the ground from which they are mined. It is this colour combined with their strong fluorescence which gives them a glowing, fiery radiance. Today, Kashmir sapphires and Burmese rubies set the standard against which all other sapphires and rubies are measured and are avidly sought by collectors who are prepared to pay princely sums for top-quality specimens. For further reading see, Hughes, R. W., 'Ruby & Sapphire', RWH Publishing, 1997 and Ramsay, A. (with Sparkes, B.), 'Bright Jewels of the Mine', 1934.This lot is subject to the following lot symbols: ΩΩ VAT on imported items at the prevailing rate on Hammer Price and Buyer's Premium.For further information on this lot please visit Bonhams.com
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DIAMOND AND ENAMEL BIRD BROOCH, CIRCA 1890Modelled as a swallow in flight, set with cushion-shaped, old brilliant and rose-cut diamonds, the tips of the wings, tail and underside of the body decorated with monochrome enamel feathers, accented by circular-cut ruby eyes, mounted in silver and gold, cushion-shaped and old brilliant-cut diamonds approximately 2.30 carats total, later detachable brooch fitting with maker's marks and French assay mark, dimensions 11.5cm x 4.5cm, cased by Collingwood Ltd., 46 Conduit Street, LondonFor further information on this lot please visit Bonhams.com
GOLD AND GEM-SET LONGCHAIN, CIRCA 1820Each link decorated with floral and ribbon motifs, the textured gloved hand forming the clasp with a frilled cuff terminating with tricoloured gold detail, accented by a cushion-shaped emerald ring and a similarly-shaped emerald and circular-cut ruby bracelet, length 125.8cmFor further information on this lot please visit Bonhams.com
GOLD AND EMERALD SNAKE BRACELET, CIRCA 1830-5Of sinuous coiling form, the body composed of overlapped scales of polished and engraved finish, the head of scrolling decoration with a fancy-cut emerald crest, and circular-cut ruby eyes, length 21.5cmFootnotes:For a similar example, inscribed with the date of gift, 1834, see Scarisbrick Diana, 'Jewellery in Britain', Norwich, 1994, page 361, plate 132For further information on this lot please visit Bonhams.com
GEM-SET BUTTERFLY BROOCH, LATE 19TH CENTURYSet throughout with cushion-shaped, old brilliant and single-cut diamonds, with circular-cut ruby eyes, the wings accented by cushion-shaped rubies and sapphires, mounted in silver and gold, diamonds approximately 7.00 carats total, length 3.9cmFor further information on this lot please visit Bonhams.com
OPAL, DIAMOND AND RUBY MOTH BROOCH/HAIR ORNAMENT, CIRCA 1890The wings, thorax and legs set with cushion-shaped, old brilliant and rose-cut diamonds, terminating in an opal cabochon body and circular cabochon ruby eyes, mounted in silver and gold, diamonds approximately 5.20 carats total, brooch and hair ornament fitting supplied, length 7.0cm, fitted case by R & S Garrard & Co., 25 Haymarket, LondonFor further information on this lot please visit Bonhams.com
LONGCHAIN WITH MULTIPLE PENDANTS, VARIOUS DATES FROM CIRCA 1860 TO 1910The double row trace-link chain suspending 26 pendants:- gold putto carrying a placard enamel 'M moi 100CC'- silver egg with enamelled reverse intaglios depicting a daisy, a toadstool, a pig, a forget-me-not, a swallow, stamped 900- gold egg locket inset with a single sapphire, French marks- gold egg inset with a single sapphire and a bunny coming out of the top, Austro-Hungarian import marks- green hardstone egg with gems missing, French marks- facetted citrine egg with rose-cut diamond girdle, French marks- gold egg opening to reveal an enamel jack-in-the-box, French marks- gold egg with sapphire and diamond trefoil, French marks- gold egg with bands of facetted rock crystal and a frieze of wild boar and diamond trefoils, Austrian marks- amazonite egg with rose-cut diamond and blue and white enamel decoration, repaired- bloodstone acorn pendant with interior glazed snuff compartment and gold oak leaf finial, French marks- rose quartz egg with ruby girdle, partially struck maker's mark ?K in a rectangular punch,- planished gold egg locket with sapphire and diamond trefoil, two interior glazed compartments, engraved Pâques 1904, overstruck and partially struck marks- gold egg star-set with rubies and diamonds, French mark- gold egg locket inset with cabochon sapphire, glazed interior compartment, French mark- frosted rock crystal egg with multi-gem-set and gold enamel decoration- lapis lazuli egg with diamond band, French marks- opalescent bluish white enamel egg with sapphire girdle (enamel damaged)- gold and pink enamel vinaigrette, French marks- rose quartz egg with facetted rock crystal girdle, French marks- gold egg with turquoise and diamond trefoil (worn marks)- green enamel on silver egg with enamelled pink roses (partially struck marks)- gold rabbit's head in ruby frame- rock crystal with reverse carved intaglio of Agnus Dei, Austro-Hungarian marks- frosted smoky quartz of rabbit with gem-set collar, stamped 585- lilac enamel on silver egg with green enamelled four leaf clover, stamped 800 length 83cmFor further information on this lot please visit Bonhams.com
GAZDAR: RUBY AND DIAMOND EARRINGS, MID 20TH CENTURYEach designed as the head of a parasol, with spokes of calibré-cut rubies and pairs of brilliant-cut diamonds, signed Gazdar, diameter 2.0cmFootnotes:Gazdar was founded in Mumbai by brothers Rusi and Dinshah Gazdar in 1933. They were the first jewellers to establish themselves at the historic landmark Taj Mahal Hotel. By the 1940s, their manufacturing facility employed highly skilled jewellers from Austria, Sri Lanka and India. They built their reputation on using fine quality gemstones and natural pearls, attracting a distinguished clientele both at home and abroad. During the late 1970s, the firm acquired notable jewels from the Nizam of Hyderabad. Hollywood stars such as Shirley Mclean and Gregory Peck are also known to have been clients.For further information on this lot please visit Bonhams.com
RUBY AND DIAMOND FRINGE NECKLACESet throughout with a graduation of octagonal step-cut rubies, between brilliant-cut diamonds, suspending a pear-shaped diamond fringe, diamonds approximately 16.55 carats total, length 40.0cmFootnotes:Accompanied by a report from The Gem & Pearl Laboratory stating that a sample of the rubies were tested and found to be heat treated with a geological occurrence common to Thailand, East Africa etc. Report number 21052, dated 18th January 2022.This lot is subject to the following lot symbols: ΩΩ VAT on imported items at the prevailing rate on Hammer Price and Buyer's Premium.For further information on this lot please visit Bonhams.com
A pair of yellow metal and ruby earrings, tests as gold together with a yellow metal and ruby stick pin, tests as gold, a yellow metal, ruby and pearl stick pin in the form of an insect, tests as gold and 2 other stick pins to include one yellow metal, topaz and seed pearl example, tests as goldLocation: Cab
A gold ruby and cubic zirconia pendant, with three oval mixed cut rubies, possibly fracture filled, claw set, with cubic zirconias claw and channel set, to articulated bale. suspended on a curb link chain with bolt ring clasp, tested as approximately 14ct gold, 450mm long, 5.32gCondition report: Surface reaching inclusions to the fracture filled rubies.Surface marks/scratches to gold.
An 18ct gold ruby and diamond three stone ring, with an eight cut ruby and two old eight cut diamonds, grain set to a scroll collet, to scroll shoulders and a 'D' section shank, Chester 1902, 2.70g.Finger size MCondition report: Some minor facet junction wear to the ruby.Surface reaching inclusions to the diamonds.Sizing join visible to base of shank.
Three gold rings, comprising a gold shell cameo ring, tested as approximately 9ct gold, a 9ct gold five stone synthetic ruby ring, London 1972, and a 9ct gold diamond set pierced band ring, common control mark, 7.66g total (3)Finger size L, M, Q½Condition report: Shank to cameo ring is out of shape.Surface marks/scratches to all.Facet junction wear to the synthetic rubies, and wear to the gallery. Porosity to this mount.
Two gold brooches,comprising a gold single stone opal bar brooch, with an oval cabochon opal, claw set, to a rectangular section bar with pin and safety catch, marked 15, tested as approximately 15ct gold with 9ct gold fittings, 61mm long, 4.00g, and a 9ct gold split pearl and ruby bar brooch, a central mixed cut ruby to quatrefoil of split pearls, with further mixed cut rubies at the interstices, all claw set, to pin and roller catch, London 1988, 2.69g (2)Condition report: Opal brooch:Minor surface marks/scratches to gold.Some minor scratches to the opal.Pin a little bent.Ruby brooch:Minor nicks/nibbles to some of the rubies.Minor surface marks/scratches to gold.
A collection of animal jewellery, to include a gold articulated tiger pendant with ruby set eyes, tested as approximately 9ct gold, a gilt metal serpent or snake bangle, a silver cat brooch, with metal pin and 'C' catch, a silver enamel bird and horseshoe brooch, catch broken, a metal Kenart dog brooch, an imitation horn dragonfly brooch, a metal penannular ram's head brooch, etc. (qty.)
A ruby full eternity ring,with square step cut rubies, numerous stones deficient, all channel set to plain guards, tested as approximately platinum, 2.76g.Finger size N¼Condition report: A number of rubies are missing, approximately five.The remaining stones are all very abraded.Minor surface marks/scratches to mount.
A Victorian diamond and ruby ring, the central rectangular panel set with three mixed cut diamonds and four mixed cut rubies, continuing to engraved shoulders and tapering plain polished shank, marks for 'S.U' Chester 1896, size N, together with a George V sapphire and diamond 18ct gold ring, marks for Birmingham 1911, size O, and a George V 9ct gold band, marks for Birmingham 1918, size R, gross weight 7.7gms (3)
A peridot 14ct gold ring, the central oval mixed cut peridot measuring 10mm x 8mm, claw set to a scalloped head, split shoulders and plain polished shank, size N, together with a pair of matched peridot earrings, each measuring 10mm x 8mm, set in unmarked yellow metal, with post and butterfly pierced ear fittings, an emerald and diamond 14ct gold ring, size O, a ruby and diamond 14ct gold ring, size N 1/2, a cultured pearl 14ct gold ring, size M 1/2, a pair of cultured pearl drop earrings, each 22mm long, and a ruby and red gemstone cluster pendant on gold plated chain (9)
An amethyst and diamond 14ct gold ring, the central oval mixed cut amethyst measuring 9mm x 7mm, flanked by two small round brilliant cut diamonds, claw set to a pierced organic form surround with plain polished shank, size M, together with a 14ct gold onyx set signet ring, size N, a blue topaz and diamond 14ct gold ring, size N, and a ruby and diamond gold colour ring, size K, gross weight 12.1gms (4)
A pair of Edwardian ruby and pearl set 15ct gold earrings, each designed as a round mixed cut ruby suspending foliate dropper set with further mixed cut rubies and seed pearls within a circular border, length of drop 26mm, screw back fastenings, stamped '15ct', weight of pair 3.1gmsCR; All stones are present. Please note, the rubies have not been tested for synthetic or natural origin. There is a small fracture to one of the rubies, but no other large chips or losses. Moderate scratching and wear to the pearls, but no large cracks or chips. No splitting, thinning, misshaping or signs of repair to the settings or surrounding hoops. Settings in good order, no splitting, thinning, misshaping or signs of repair. Screw fittings in working order.
WMF HOLDERS. A pair of WMF Art Nouveau glass holders. Stamped & No.90. Max. height 7cm. (Replacement ruby glass liners). Please note that all items in this auction are previously owned & are offered on behalf of a private vendor. If detail on condition is required on any lot(s) PLEASE ASK FOR A CONDITION REPORT BEFORE BIDDING. The absence of a condition report does not imply the lot is perfect.WE CAN SHIP THIS LOT, but NOT if part of a large, multiple lots purchase.
MODERN INLAID MAHOGANY EFFECT JEWELLERY BOX & CONTENTS - 9ct gold and sterling silver, ETC. Items include a 9ct gold wide band ring with textured decoration, size P, 9ct gold ruby and sapphire set ring, size N, 6.6grms combined, silver locket, 4.5 x 3.5cms, hammered effect '925' stamped bangle, '925' stamped cross having garnet type stones, 5 x 4cms, '925' stamped marcasite and possibly black agate cross on a silver chain, pair of silver and marcasite drop earrings, three silver rings and one other sizes K - mid N-O, enamel and other necklaces, earrings, ETC, along with two simulated pearl necklaces
A synthetic ruby and diamond pendant by Victoria Buckley,: the square panel centrally set with a square cut synthetic ruby collet set within a surround of brilliant cut diamonds, approximately 0.20 carats total, on an 18 carat gold chain, stamped 18ct, maker's mark VB, pendant 2cm long, chain 41.5cm long, in a Victoria Buckley box with outer card packaging.
A pair of 18 carat gold ruby and diamond earrings by Garrard & Co.,: the circular cut rubies claw set within a removable surround of brilliant cut diamonds, approximately 0.80 carats total, with post fittings, stamped 750 with full London hallmarks for 1993, maker's mark G & Co., 1.1cm diameter.
A late 19th century Renaissance Revival ruby, pearl and enamel pendant by Carlo Giuliano,: circa 1875, the square shaped pendant set with pearls and oval cabochon rubies on a black, white and blue enamel ground, suspending a pearl, stamped CG for Carlo Giuliano, the reverse with black, white and blue enamel, on an unassociated pearl set chain, pendant 5cm long, chain 76cm long.

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