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Lot 386
A WWI period open submersible or rebreather diving suit:, the hood with rubber face mask and eye pieces with open mouth and valve, the suit with long zip to front, with black waistband loops, neck loop and similar loop to the rear of the hood. * see page 167, vol 2, 'Diving Helmets and Equipment Through The Ages'.
Lot 389
A Swedish 4 bolt two piece diving suit and equipment:, the top section glued to a brass 4-bolt recessed collar with rubber cuffs, the bottom section glued to a 4 inch copper waistband with weight hooks, together with a submersible airline, diving light and regulator valve by Grieff in an associated trunk. (some mildew and vulcanisation to suit) * see page 169, vol 2, 'Diving Helmets and Equipment Through The Ages'.
Lot 458
A Third Reich period three bolt DM 40 re breather diving helmet by Drager, together with re breather apparatus, diving suit, belt, knife, weights, shoes and telephone line in an associated case:, the helmet numbered '3692' with matching numbers to collar of corselet, also stamped with eagle and swastika above the letter 'M', the helmet with internal comms ,head purge and inlet/outlet to rear, together with a three bolt diving suit, seat weight, chest air reserve cylinder weights, back re breather pack with twin cylinders, boots and Medi diving knife. * see pages 198-199, vol 2, 'Diving Helmets and Equipment Through The Ages'.
Lot 459
A reproduction print ' Diving helmet and Dress according to Mr Siebe's last Improvement':, together with a facsimile copy of ' report on the various diving apparatus used in the removal of the wreck of the Royal George with illustration of Mr Siebe', also a facsimile copy of Harry Houdini's Diving suit patent application, three photographs of Augustus Siebe's first diving helmet and a print of a Victorian diver in full dress. * see page 202, vol 2, 'Diving Helmets and Equipment Through The Ages'.
Lot 52
A 6-bolt diving suit corselet test rig by Siebe Gorman & Co, London:, formerly used by the factory for checking standard diving suit, the front posts having been cut away, the flat top with inlet and outlet valves, maker's plate to breastplate as per title, 37cm wide * see page 76, vol 1, 'Diving Helmets and Equipment Through The Ages'.
Lot 53
A 12-bolt standard diving suit corselet test rig by C E Heinke & Co, London:, numbered '2346', the blanked top with hanging loop and inlet and outlet mounts, maker's plate to breastplate as per title, 37cm wide. * see page 76, vol 1, 'Diving Helmets and Equipment Through The Ages'. *Note- Although this came from the Siebe Gorman factory and has a C. E. Heinke label, it could also have been used for testing the Siebe Gorman 12 Bolt square corselet suits, as the collar pattern of both are the same. It was probably part of the Heinke stock transferred to the Siebe factory after they were taken over by them in 1960/61.
Lot 94
A set of DM 220 diving equipment by Drager:, comprising a 12-bolt DM 220 yellow fibreglass 'Swim-Diving' helmet, the shaped bonnet with handle to top and guarded top window, the front window hinged to one side, side outlet with black rubber safety cover, rear air inlet and comms, the narrow fronted corselet with weight posts suitable for either standard weights or regulator fittings, also together with a DM 220 dive suit. height of helmet 51cm high. * see pages 138-139, vol 1, 'Diving Helmets and Equipment Through The Ages'.
Lot 260
An Yves Saint Laurent embroidered velvet knicker-bocker suit, Autumn-Winter, 1982-3, Rive Gauche labelled and size 40, the doublet-style jacket with facetted glass buttons, satin ribbon bows to the breeches, bust 86cm, 34in, waist 61cm, 24in (2) This design was photographed in French Vogue, August 1982, p.299. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, no problems
Lot 173
An Yves Saint Laurent couture ivory silk Saharienne-style trouser suit, circa 1968-70, labelled and numbered 29224, the jacket with patch pockets, gilt metal buttons, top-stitched detailing; the slim-fitting trousers with slight flare at the the hem, bust 81cm, 32in, trouser waist 66cm, 26in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Although the jacket is couture finished, but the trousers have machine locked seams. Pin pricks from a brooch to the jacket lapel. The belt doesn't look original
Lot 86
A rare Jeanne Lanvin lounging pyjamas ensemble, early 1930s, large woven label, indistinctly labelled, numbered in pencil 659, comprising: bias-cut one-piece suit with wide flared legs, a jacket with ties to neck and complex folded back cuffs with bows; and a black satin cape with piped seams and fringed scarf ties to neck, bust approx 81cm, 32in (3)
Lot 165
A Balenciaga couture flecked grey and ivory checked tweed suit, mid 1960s, Eisa labelled, the loose jacket with side slits, pewter glazed buttons, faux pocket flaps and organdy cuffs, below knee skirt, chest 102cm, 40in, waist 61cm, 24in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, looks little worn
Lot 228
A Chanel couture magenta tweed suit, Spring-Summer, 1973, large label and numbered 47449, with gilt lion mask buttons, the borders threaded with matching ribbons, matching skirt with kick pleat, chest 81cm, 32in, waist 61cm, 24in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Soiling to skirt lining , jacket sleeves have been heavily altered as has waistline on skirt - but a good wearable
Lot 117
A Balenciaga couture grey tweed suit, 1959, Paris labelled and numbered 63040, the loose jacket with chunky buttons over narrow skirt, chest 102cm, 40in, waist 61cm, 24in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Jacket: perspiration protectors have been added to the grey silk lining, can't see what lies beneath. Lining has been let out down both side seams, small holes along edge of hem return. Skirt: hem has been lowered, slight staining to seat lining, repair to lining at zip base, waistband has been altered. There is a strange pair of horizontal tacks across the back lining - not sure what has gone on!
Lot 131
A Chanel couture brocaded satin cocktail suit, 1957, labelled and numbered 05629, woven with gold foliate scrolls, the sleeveless dress with cross-over panels to bodice, the matching jacket lined in pink silk with gold braid edging, dress bust 92cm, 36in (2) Provenance: Purchased from the estate of the actress Rosalind Russell in the late 1970s. CONDITION REPORT: Jacket - slight fraying to cuff lining, gold braid is tarnished but overall good condition; dress - the bodice side seams have been let out and the hem has been lowered. Stains to ivory silk lining
Lot 146
A Rudi Gernreich black satin cocktail 'bloomer' suit, 1968, labelled, the all-in-one suit with diagonal front pleats to the bloomer-like shorts, matching belt, bust 86cm, 34in (2) See 'The Rudi Gernreich Book' by Peggy Moffitt p.169 for a bloomer ensemble. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, no problems. Slight rubbing to buckle satin covering (minor).
Lot 258
A fine Jean Paul Gaultier gold lamé stage ensemble designed for Madonna's 'Blond Ambition' tour, 1990, labelled Jean Paul Gaultier, Paris, and initialled in ink 'MC' to the corset-like bodice, with top-stitched conical breast cups, curved top-stitched hip panels, gold thong laces laces front and back, zip to front and nude elastane lining; with matching knickers of nude elastane and gold lamé, bust approx 86cm, 34in, waist 61cm, 24in; together with an autographed photograph of Madonna wearing the ensemble on tour (3) Madonna wears a gold corset outfit in the second 'Religious' phase of the show where she provocatively sings 'Like A Virgin' whilst writhing on a red satin covered bed, accompanied by male dancers wearing cone bras. She next covers the gold ensemble with a black robe and a large crucifix and sings 'Like A Prayer', which caused furore in the press at the time and a backlash from religious groups. Jean Paul Gaultier said of this special commission: 'When Madonna first called me in 1989, it was two days before my ready-to-wear show, and I thought my assistant was joking. I was a big fan. She asked me if I would do the tour. She knew what she wanted: a pinstripe suit, feminine corsetry. Madonna likes my clothes because they combine the masculine and the feminine…When I was a child, my grandmother took me to an exhibition, and they had a corset on display. I loved the flesh colour, the salmon satin, the lace. She explained that a corset was meant to help you, to make you stand up. It was a solution that I thought was beautiful. The gold conical bra was just an extension of that idea'. This iconic outfit, perhaps more than any other she wore in the show, is instantly recognisable as 'Madonna'. Jean Paul Gaultier has examined this piece and confirms that it was made for Madonna and she would have tried it on for fittings in his Paris studio at the very least. The sweat marks on the bodice suggest that it was also worn in performance although we cannot confirm this. The outfit was purchased by the vendor the 1990s from the Stars & Stripes specialist memorabilia store in Los Angeles for $25,000 and was subsequently exhibited at the 'Fashion Cafe'. From Mr Gaultier's memory only three of these outfits were ever made. Madonna herself has one, there is one in the Hard Rock café (which she gave to the Shelter charity to auction via Sotheby's in 1992) and this one. He used a special vintage gold lamé fabric with a high metallic fibre content. More recently he attempted to make a replica of the ensemble for his travelling exhibition - but found it impossible as none of the fabrics available now (new or vintage) are similar. CONDITION REPORT: The elasticated straps have become slack with age. The lacing is all good condition, the interior is fresh and clean in appearance. There are small damp freckles scattered generally across the lining but these are not immediately obvious. Corset: Gold lame has oxidised generally. Perspiration stains on the undersides of the breast cones and the underarms have caused the lame to tarnish. Knickers: Good condition - very little tarnishing to the lame, slight stretch in the nude lycra mesh ground. They look unworn or little worn.
Lot 114
A Christian Dior couture brown tweed day suit, Autumn-Winter, 1955, labelled and numbered 78752, the jacket with domed black buttons, the skirt with broad box pleats, bust 92cm, 36in, waist 66cm, 26in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Jacket: tweed is generally good, lining is very worn at the underarms, buttons have been moved to the edge of the jacket at waist and hip area to widen the closure. Skirt: black silk lining has been replaced at lower hem - but very well done. Skirt hem has been lowered. Grosgrain patch to hem return approx. 4x12cm (where a small panel was taken to extend the waistband). Waistband has been widened by 5cm.
Lot 51
A Pluym lady's summer suit, American, 1912, labelled 'Pluym, Washington DC' and with handwritten client label 'Miss Marguerite Draper, April 1912', of linen open-weave with contrasting pulled and drawn-thread bands in pink silk, with decorative, pink cord, white buttons and pink organdy ruffle trims, bust approx 96cm, 38in, waist 71cm, 28in (2)
Lot 180
A Balenciaga couture pink silk/linen summer suit, mid 1960s, Eisa labelled, the loose jacket with faux pocket flaps just above the jacket hem, chest 97cm, 38in, waist 71cm, 28in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, seam with zip closure has been slightly let out. Skirt lining has been replaced and also let out down both side seams, but no obvious alteration to the skirt side seams. Waistband has been altered. Jacket has very, very slight perspiration stains to lining, barely noticeable. Lining across upper back has been replaced.
Lot 159
A Chanel couture hound's tooth checked tweed and kid leather suit, 1965, labelled but not numbered, the box-cut jacket with black leather collar and broad waistband with three buckles, gilt lion mask medallion heads, knee-length skirt, bust 92cm, 36in, waist 71cm, 28in; together with a photocopy of 'Les Jardins des Modes', September, 1965, p.81, for an image of this suit being modelled (3) CONDITION REPORT: Overall good condition. Black leather trim is probably a shade or two lighter than when it was made. Couple of splits in the lining but these are easily sewn up. Gilt finish to waist buckles is slightly rubbed. Skirt hem has been lowered 4cm but done well. Slight moth damage to skirt lining and back silk panel has been replaced, two faint brown stains to front of skirt.
Lot 157
A Chanel couture ivory tweed suit, 1964, broad label and numbered 24873, the jacket with gilt lion mask buttons, the skirt with broad pleats, with matching top-stitched silk blouse, chest 92cm, 36in, waist 76cm, 26in (3) CONDITION REPORT: Skirt in good condition. Jacket good condition, perspiration stains at underarms to lining only. Blouse has faint perspiration stains at underarms.
Lot 166
A Marc Bohan for Christian Dior couture tweed suit with tousled collar, Autumn-Winter, 1962, labelled and numbered 116015, the bolduc with 'M.Claude-Prince Noir', with A-line skirt, chest 86cm, 34in, waist 61cm, 24in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Skirt: exterior appearance is good. Hem has been lowered by 7cm, 2 3/4in. Moth damage to skirt lining at front hem area but the tweed exterior is good. Lining on rear waistband has been re-sewn at edges suggesting it has been slightly let out at both ends. There is a small split in the lining centre front also. The skirt has wide seam returns. The side seams have been taken in by approx. 1cm each side to make narrower - this gradually reduces and disappears before the waist is reached. Jacket: exterior is good condition, no problems. Lining is generally good but has been overlaid with rayon at cuff edges to hide wear.
Lot 299
A Comme des Garçons dark-grey flecked wool suit, Autumn-Winter, 1986, labelled and size M, the double-breasted jacket with asymmetric puff-ball peplum forming a bustle at the back, padded shoulders, worn over long pencil skirt with drape to front hem (2) See LACMA 'Breaking the Mode' p.57 for a similar ensemble. CONDITION REPORT: good condition, looks unworn
Lot 248
An Ossie Clark/Celia Birtwell ivory wool suit, early 1970s, black on white woven label, size 10, comprising: cropped jacket with 'Baroque Bouquet' printed satin lining; matching chiffon blouse and maxi skirt, busts approx 92-96cm, 36-38in (3) CONDITION REPORT: good condition, very fresh, a couple of very faint light brown spots to jacket and skirt
Lot 154
A Christian Dior New York gold lamé and coloured tweed cocktail ensemble, mid 1960s, labelled, comprising: jacket and skirt with lamé facings, matching sleeveless bodice with gilt metal bauble buttons and a turban-like hat, bust 86cm, 34in, waist 64cm, 25in (4) Provenance: Purchased from the estate of the actress Rosalind Russell in the late 1970s. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition. Bodice: organza bodice lining has numerous repaired splits (20x5cm L-shaped repair; 4cm repair; 8cm and 8x7cm), exterior is shiny and good. Bodice zip is broken. Jacket: perspiration stains at underarms to lining, exterior is good. Skirt: hem has been lowered by 6cm and lining shortened, zip has been replaced. Hat: tweed is faded in comparison to suit but not immediately noticeable.
Lot 199
HRH the Duke of Windsor's Hunting Lord of the Isles tartan evening suit, 1951, woven in shades of green and white wool, the Scholte double-breasted jacket, labelled and indistinctly annotated `HRH the Duke of Windsor', dated 8.6.51 and numbered 2719, with wide lapels, side vents, curved cuffs with three buttons; the matching trousers by Harris of New York, zip fastened, with narrow tapering legs to the ankle; together with a Hawes & Curtis matching backless waistcoat, no 4996, and cummerbund; a Scholte dark green corduroy backless waistcoat, bearing the Duke's name, dated 8.10.47, no 189493; and two Hawes & Curtis white piqué highland style dress-waistcoats, chest 97cm, 38in, waist 74cm, 29in (7) This suit is one of the most stylish and flamboyant of all of the Duke's wardrobe. He was photographed wearing it in the early 1960s but was to continue to wear it throughout his life. It combined carefully considered tailoring with the dramatic use of an ancient highland tartan. The modern cut combined with the traditional tartan produced an avant-garde and almost shocking ensemble. Every time the Duke ordered a suit it must have posed something of a logistical nightmare. His jackets were made by his favoured London tailor Scholte, his waistcoats, shirts and accessories by Hawes & Curtis, but for his trousers he went to New York for - his 'pants across the sea' as Wallis jokingly called them. This is the suit of a quintessential dandy. As Prince of Wales and throughout his life he loved to lead fashion rather than to follow it. A suit of such dramatic pattern and colour would undoubtedly make him stand out in a crowd (as if he didn't already) though such is the power of the ensemble that few would probably dare to follow his lead - and should they try, they would be unlikely to pull it off with the elan of the Duke! Provenance: Sotheby's auction of the wardrobe of the Duke of Windsor, lot 2922, 24th February, 1998. CONDITION REPORT: Tartan jacket: good condition, no problems. Tartan waistcoat: good condition, one tiny faint spot stain above left waist pocket (minor), barely visible small soil mark on silk neck return (minor). Cummerbund: good condition, slight discolouration to lining edges, two nice little hidden pockets in the top edges, slight wear to silk lining where prongs from buckle have caught (minor). Trousers: perspiration staining to rear waistband lining, beautifully darned repair to upper inside area of left leg, interestingly right rear pocket has a button closure but the left rear pocket does not. Green corduroy waistcoat: main panels are good, wear to silk facing at neck. 2 white piqué dress waistcoats with highland detailing to pocket flaps - good condition, slight rust marks on one closure strap.
Lot 322
A Yohji Yamamoto red wool dress, in homage to Pierre Cardin, Autumn-Winter, 1989-90, labelled and size S, with wide circular cut-outs to the sides, concealed inner hip pockets, zip fastened to the back On the runway this dress was worn with a contrasting black body suit and tights, see: www.dailymotion.com/video/x25orex_yohji-yamamoto-autumn-winter-1989-1990-paris-pret-a-porter-women-by-canale-moda_people The lead singer of 'Swing Out Sister' wore an identical dress on the cover of the single 'Through the Sky'. CONDITION REPORT: good condition, looks unworn. Patch of matching fabric is inside one pocket.
Lot 220
A Lancetti couture pale green organza and silk crêpe halter-neck jump suit, 1970s, labelled, the bodice entirely covered with embossed petals, wide palazzo trousers, bust approx 86cm, 34in, waist 71cm, 28in CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, small glue marks in places behind the bodice. Slight soiling to inside neckband and faint deodorant marks at underarm (minor). Crotch area is good, very faint mark. One petal is detached. Split along seam at front left of bodice which is easily repaired and concealed by petals. Small split where organza meets waistband, needs small repair. Overall impression is clean, good and fun.
Lot 104
A navy wool and black leather ski suit, 1936-9, un-labelled, the heavy felted wool double-breasted jacket with broad black leather lapels, side straps, tabs to cuffs and triangular flaps to pockets on trousers with elasticated ankles, chest 92cm, 36in, waist 71cm, 28in (2) This design is redolent of some German military uniforms at the time. CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, lacking a button from the trouser fastening at left hip. Slight soiling to cotton lining on rear inner waistband. Elastic is good. Jacket is good condition, leather slightly faded with age.
Lot 152
A Chanel couture brown tartan mohair suit, 1964, black on silver label to jacket and numbered '24915', the jacket with gilt lion mask buttons, piped and lined in bronze silk with chain-weighted hem; matching skirt, bust 92cm, 36in, waist 66cm, 26in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Good condition, very fresh. Very faint perspiration stains at underarm to lining. Lining at left armhole seam needs needs re-stitching approx. 7cm
Lot 170
A Balenciaga couture black bouclé wool suit, circa 1963, labelled and numbered '86620', the loose-cut jacket with bracelet length sleeves cut in one with the front and back panels, two front pockets, the slim skirt with pockets concealed within front seams, bust 107cm, 42in, waist 66cm, 26in (2) CONDITION REPORT: Loose jacket is good condition, very fresh, no problems. Skirt - hem has been let down and waistband widened otherwise good condition.
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19303 item(s)/page