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Click here to subscribeA PAIR OF DIAMOND CLIP BROOCHES, CIRCA 1950 Each spray composed of knifewire bars set with brilliant, single and baguette-cut diamonds, embellished by a ribbon of further single-cut diamonds, mounted in 18K gold, diamonds approximately 3.50cts total, French import marks, lengths 4cm, widths 2.3cm
A FINE LAPIS LAZULI AND DIAMOND LONG NECKLACE The two rows of round-shaped lapis lazuli beads, with two polished gold connector clasps decorated with round brilliant-cut diamonds, mounted in 18K gold, diamonds approximately 1.00ct total, Italian assay marks, length approximately 73cm * The necklace can be worn as two separate necklaces 35.5cm & 41.5cm
A VICTORIAN LADY'S DIAMOND AND ENAMEL FULL CASE POCKETWATCH, BY J. WALTHAM, 1886 Of manual wind movement, the circular white enamel dial with Roman numerals with blued steel hands, second subsidiary dial with milled winder and circular suspension loop, the front embellished with a central rose-cut diamond encircled by florets of forget-me-nots, cream and off white enamel with studded border and repeated verso, mounted in 18K gold, UK hallmarks for Birmingham 1886, with presentation inscription 'To Ada Willis, from her fiancé Joseph M. Meade, Christmas 1886', the movement 3045391, case no. 12770, movement signed, with service papers dated 2015, length (including suspension loop) 5.6cm, width 3.9cm, total gross weight approx: 63.39g
A DIAMOND 'DIVA'S DREAM DIVISIMA' BRACELET, BY BULGARI Designed as a series of brilliant-cut diamond or polished fan-shaped motifs, suspending similarly designed charms, mounted in 18K rose gold, diamonds weighing 5.16cts total, signed Bvlgari, numbered, Italian's assay mark, with maker's case, length 19.2cm The fan motifs were inspired by ancient Rome's mosaic Caracalla baths. ** Image from Georgia
AN ENAMEL, RUBY, SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND BROOCH Modelled as a stylised dragonfly, the plique-à-jour wings accented by round-shaped cabochon sapphires and brilliant-cut diamonds, with an oval-shaped cabochon sapphire and similarly-cut diamond body, completed by round-shaped cabochon ruby for eyes, mounted in gold, length 6cm, width 7.3cm
A LADY'S 18K GOLD, GEM-SET AND DIAMOND 'ASTRALA' WRISTWATCH, BY BULGARI 5-jewel Cal. MVE200 quartz movement, the circular white dial with steel baton hands, with brilliant-cut diamond bezel, encircled within a frame of similarly-cut diamonds highlighted with coloured semi-precious cabochon stones set on polished gold, to a fitted black satin bracelet with 18K gold double folding clasp with gold loop engraved 'Bvlgari', dial, case, movement and bracelet signed, with Swiss assay mark, case no. AEW3**/BT15*, ref no. 2536, with maker's box, case width 3.6cm
A LADY'S 18K GOLD AND DIAMOND-SET COCKTAIL WATCH, BY OMEGA, CIRCA 1965 The 17-jewel Cal. 620 manual wind movement, oval-shaped silvered dial with applied bi-coloured hour markers, polished case with diamond-set bezel and snap on back, fitted maker's integral bracelet with locking clasp, dial and movement signed, crown and clasp with Omega logo, case no. 823279**, in 18K gold, Swiss assay mark, case width (including crown): 2.9cm, length 17.1cm
A SAPPHIRE BRACELET, BY ILLARIO, CIRCA 1955 The supple and articulated bracelet composed of two rows of baguette-cut synthetic sapphires between borders of gold beading detail, mounted in 18K gold, maker's mark for Illario, French import mark, length 18cm Brothers Carlo, Vincenzo and Luigi Illario were a family of goldsmiths/jewellers from Valenza. They established a jewellery firm in 1920, with each brother taking on their own position. Carlo, who was trained in Paris, headed the production, Vincenzo was a stone setter who also selected the precious gems and Luigi was head of administration. The brothers worked under their own name, as well as for bigger firms, and were involved with several different jewellery companies. Some of the most renowned goldsmiths in Valenza practised in their workshop, guaranteeing that each product was crafted with exceptional quality. The company brand from 1935 had been 26AL and the business name was under Carlo Illario e Filli. Traditionally, ownership was handed down from father to son and, in 1953, even Luigi's sons, Giovanni and Vittorio, became a part of the family business. From the end of the 1900s, Vittorio and his sons, Pier Luigi and Edoardo, carried on as owners of the company with the 'Illario 1920' logo. In 1996, Giovanni Illario, along with his sons Carlo and Gian Luca, agreed with Vittorio and his sons to set up a new company that would allow them to be more active in the foreign market. This led to a split in Societa Carlo Illario and to the creation of the new Societa Carlo Luca della Quercia which pursues the traditions and spirit of the original company. Their skilled craftsmanship, reputation of excellence and use of innovative goldsmith techniques caught the attention of well-established retailers. Throughout the 20th century, Casa Illario created unique pieces of haute joaillerie for the most famous Italian maisons: Bvlgari, Cusi, Faraone, Fasano, Fecarotta, Settepassi, Ventrella and others. The company's partnership with Bvlgari was particularly long standing, running from the 1950s through until the 1970s. In this time, Illario made many pieces for Bvlgari, including the now iconic Serpenti watch bracelet. Elizabeth Taylor was a consistent patron, whose personal style and love of dramatic jewels found its home in Illario's creations. Alongside manufacturing for other brands, Illario produced a vibrant assortment of jewellery under their own name. They were known for their fine gemstones and unusual materials, such as polychrome enamel, tortoiseshell and mother of pearl. Striving to stand out, Illario used new techniques in its pieces, such as black rhodium plating to create a contrasted look. The quality of the craftsmanship is clear in all jewels that bear the Illario name, making them highly desirable.
A SAPPHIRE LINE BRACELET Composed of a continuous line of circular-cut sapphires within four-claw setting weighing 12.96cts in total, mounted in 18K gold, Italian assay mark, length 21.3cm Accompanied by a certificate from 'Danini Jewellery' in Italy where purchased by current vendor, confirming the weight of the sapphires. Dated October 9th 2017
A DIAMOND 'LEGENDE D'AUTOMNE' RING, BY JULIE GENET Realistically modelled as a thin maple leaf set with coloured diamonds of yellow and brown tint throughout, finished with a trifurcated gold hoop, mounted in 18K gold, diamonds 0.96ct total, signed 'JGJ' for Julie Genet Joaillerie, with maker's mark, French assay mark, with maker's case and pouch, ring size M The Autumnal colours of the ring's diamonds, tactile texture and maple leaf silhouette were inspired by the iconic film 'Legends of the Fall' based on Jim Harrisons short story. Harrison's writing portrays regions of North America, with stories set in picturesque areas like Nebraska's Sand Hills, Michigan's Upper Peninsula, Montana's mountains, and along the Arizona-Mexico border. The scenery illustrating the variety of nature and the passing of seasons are all featured in the film, which was of influence for the creation of this beautiful ring. Native American culture emphasizes harmony with nature, which is evident in the film. Legends of the Fall was primarily filmed on location in Alberta and British Columbia, Canada. Principal photography began in mid-September 1993. The maple leaf became a symbol of Canada as early as the 1700s. In 1848, The Maple Leaf, a Canadian literary annual published in Toronto, ON, announced the maple leaf as the chosen emblem for Canada. By 1860, the maple leaf was used in the Royal Canadian 100th Regiment Badge. Maple trees symbolize balance, offering, practical magic, promise, longevity, generosity, and intelligence. Leaves hold symbolism in many cultures, but in general, they symbolize fertility and growth. The green leaves of spring and summer depict hope, renewal and revival. Blazing yellow, orange and red leaves of fall represent the change of season.
A STAINLESS STEEL AND GOLD AUTOMATIC CALENDAR BRACELET WATCH, BY ROLEX, CIRCA 1990 31-Jewel Cal.3135 automatic movement adjusted to temperature and 5 positions, white dial with applied gilt Roman numerals, black outer minute track, gilt faceted baton hands and centre seconds, magnified date aperture at 3, brushed and polished tonneau shaped case with signed screw down Oyster back and gold crown, gold fluted Jubilee bezel, fitted 62523 Jubilee bracelet and signed folding Oyster clasp, serial no. X3998**, model 16233, case, dial and movement signed, with maker's case and papers, case width (including crown): 3.6cm
A DIAMOND PENDANT ON CHAIN The round brilliant-cut diamond weighing 1.68cts within a four-claw setting, suspending from a fine cable-link chain, mounted in 18K gold, chain lengths 38.7 & 40.9cm Accompanied by a report from the HRD laboratory in Antwerp, stating that the diamond weighing 1.68cts, is H colour, VVS1 clarity. Report number 180000005694, dated January 16th 2018
A FINE GEM-SET AND DIAMOND PENDANT/BROOCH, BY FRED PARIS, CIRCA 1975 -1980 Designed as a stylised present bow, centring a ruby cabochon within a surround of brilliant-cut diamonds, the ribbons of openwork decorated with alternating sapphire, emerald and ruby cabochons with brilliant-cut diamond highlights throughout, mounted in 18K gold, diamonds approximately 6.00cts total, signed Fred Paris, with maker's marks for André Vassort (partially rubbed), French assay marks, with brooch and pendant fitting, length 6.4cm Fred Samuel (1908-2006) established his jewellery brand in 1936 in Paris, where he spent much of his professional life. Originally from Buenos Aires, born into a family that dealt in precious stones, it was no surprise he conceived a passion for cultured pearls and won recognition as a leading expert in the field. Fred imbued his designs with the energy of South America, saying his creations were inspired by the life, the light, the movement, the energy of the continent. This passion is expressed through the use of coloured gemstones and playful motifs. During World War II, Fred Samuel fled Paris and became an interpreter for the Allies. After the war, the brand changed its name to from Fred Samuel to 'Fred' due to anti-Jewish sentiment in post-war Germany. Describing himself in 1936 as a 'Contemporary Creative Jeweller', he proved this through his striking modern designs, with rounded, curvaceous lines. Fred became famous for jewels designed by Jean Cocteau and for its famous clients, such as Marlène Dietrich and the royal family of Monaco, including princess Grace. In 1966 Fred Paris was the inventor of cable jewellery 'Force 10' (made of stainless steel) and this feature is still very prominent today in ring, bracelet, pendant and necklace designs. As the brand grew, new stores were opened across the world; 1976 Monte Carlo, 1981 Cannes, 2001 Tokyo and 2007 Beijing, Dubai and Bogotá. The company became the property of LVMH in 1996 and Fred collaborated with Kate Moss for the design of an exclusive collection in 2012. Fred Paris designed the iconic 23 heart-shaped ruby necklace interlaced with diamonds, which was gifted to Julia Roberts by Richard Gere in the film Pretty Woman. The last major film for which Fred Paris provided jewellery was Casino Royale starring Daniel Craig, featuring the star collection pendant and earrings. This magnificent bracelet is a unique creation of Fred. n 1995 FRED joined the Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton LVMH group. In the secluded streets of Paris, shadowed by the celebrity of the great jewellery maisons of France, work the craftsmen whose talents feed the ever-hungry mouths of glamour. In December 1955, at 34 rue Sainte Anne, André Vassort registered his atelier and soon became one of the most sought-after jewellers in France. He was quickly employed by names such as Boucheron, Van Cleef and Arpels, Mauboussin and FRED. His work adorned their most discerning clients and he became a favourite in carrying out special commissions. Of particular note was the crown that he created under Van Cleef and Arpels for Empress Farah of Iran. Taking six months to complete, the magnificent piece is iridescent with diamonds, emeralds, rubies and pearls, mounted in white gold and set against a backdrop of forest-green velvet. Vassort specialised in working with gold, drawn to the warmth and texture that could be coaxed from the metal, however, he did not shy away from other materials. His understanding of gemstones allowed him to create bold and colourful pieces, such as the current lot. Working anonymously for larger houses, a large portion of Vassort's work is unsigned, but, here, we are gifted with his maker's mark 'AV'. When André Vassort closed his workshop in the early 1990s, his name and work were revered within the jewellery industry and his pieces had become synonymous with enduring quality.
AN 18K GOLD AUTOMATIC CALENDAR 'TURNOGRAPH' WRISTWATCH, BY ROLEX, CIRCA 1960 26-jewel Cal.1570 automatic movement, circular silvered dial with applied baton hour markers, sweep centre seconds, magnified date aperture at 3 o'clock, polished case with calibrated thunderbird bezel, screw down Oyster crown and screw back, fitted Rolex brown leather strap, rose gold Rolex buckle (possibly plated), case in 18K gold with Swiss assay mark, case, dial and movement signed, model no. 1625, serial no. 15565**, with spare 18K gold bracelet signed Rolex with Swiss assay mark, with Rolex original box, case width (including crown): 3.6cm
A COLOURED DIAMOND PENDANT ON CHAIN The round brilliant-cut diamond of fancy brown-yellow colour weighing 1.03cts, within collet-setting and suspending from a double rope-link gold chain, mounted in gold, pendant length 1.6cm, chain length 49.7cm Accompanied by a report from IGI laboratory in Antwerp, stating that the diamond weighing 1.03cts is natural with a natural Fancy Brown-Yellow colour. Report number F4G44801, dated May 31st 2007
AN 18K GOLD MANUAL WIND WATCH, BY PATEK PHILIPPE, CIRCA 1970 18-jewel manual wind watch, the square silver dial with baton hour markers and Arabic numeral for 12, gilt hands, beneath a gold cover, to a textured brick-link strap, case number 260979*, movement number 110138*, ref. no. 3086-14, dial, clasp and movement signed, Swiss assay mark, maker's mark 'GF' on clasp and numbered 359, length 17cm
AN 18K GOLD AND DIAMOND-SET PEARLMASTER CALENDAR BRACELET WATCH, BY ROLEX 29-jewel Cal. 2135 automatic movement, the circular sunburst champagne dial with diamond set hour markers, magnified date at 3 o'clock, gilt baton hands, centre seconds, diamond-set bezel, brushed and polished tonneau case with screw down back, fitted pearlmaster link bracelet, signed folding clasp, case, dial and movement signed, Rolex gold crown, serial no. W6365**, model no. 69298, with maker's large case, width (including crown): 3cm
A GEM-SET PENDANT/BROOCH, BY MARGHERITA BURGENER Modelled as a stylised flowerhead, the textured gold petals surrounding a circular-cut purple garnet at the cent highlighted with a brilliant-cut diamond frame, mounted in 18K rose gold, with maker's mark 'MB', with maker's case, with brooch and pendant fitting, length 2.5cm
A PAIR OF DIAMOND EARRINGS, BY DIETER BRETTERBAUER, CIRCA 1990 Each bombé openwork gold plaque set with six brilliant-cut diamonds floating within channel-setting, backed with similarly-shaped platinum plaque, mounted in 18K gold and platinum, diamonds 0.60ct total, signed D. Bretterbauer, with maker's marks, with maker's pouch, length 1.9cm Accompanied by a certificate from Dieter Brettenbauer with illustration of the earrings and their description, dated December 17th 1992 Located in Velden am Wörthersee, Austria, the showrooms of Bretterbauer Juweliere offer the discerning client a chance to purchase something innovative, unique and, above all, beautiful. A family run business, Bretterbauer was established over forty years ago. Each creation is designed by either Dieter or Helmut Bretterbauer and handmade by the company. The raw materials are purchased exclusively from conflict-free sources, with each diamond and gem carefully chosen for its superior quality. Pieces by Bretterbauer Juweliere have been exhibited worldwide and the company has been presented with the Diamond International Award. Rightfully proud of their work, each item is either stamped or signed by the designer and accompanied by a certificate of authenticity.
A 'MEDOR' CUFF BRACELET, BY HERMÈS, 2018 The large 'collier de chien' bracelet with gold plated hardware and pyramid studs on black matt leather strap, signed Hermès, with maker's pouch and box, T2, length 20.8cm Accompanied by its invoice from Hermès Monte-Carlo, dated December 28th 2018
A LADY'S 18K GOLD 'HAPPY DIAMONDS' WRISTWATCH, BY CHOPARD 4-jewel ETA 2001001-Cal quartz movement, the circular case with champagne dial, polished baton hands, glazed case with three free-floating brilliant-cut diamonds within collet-setting, two brilliant-cut diamond accents on lugs, snap on case back, fitted integral 18K gold Chopard brick link bracelet with single-cut diamond accent on clasp, case, dial and bracelet signed, Swiss assay mark, marked 'LUC' on clasp, case width 2.1cm, length 17.4cm
AN IMPORTANT EMERALD, CULTURED PEARL, SAPPHIRE AND ONYX SAUTOIR NECKLACE Designed as a cultured pearl tassel highlighted with emerald bead and brilliant-cut diamond terminals, with pierced pavé-set brilliant-cut diamond and onyx cap, surmounted by emerald beads embellished with further similarly-cut diamonds and onyx detail, suspending from a cable-link chain interspersed with further emerald beads and circular-cut colourless sapphires, mounted in 18K gold, pendant length 19.8cm, necklace length 68.4cm
A SEED PEARL NECKLACE WITH SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND CLASP Composed of three rows of seed pearls completed by a stylised clasp set with a circular-cut sapphire at the centre, between oval-shaped sapphires and European-cut diamonds, to a surround of rose-cut diamonds, mounted in 18K gold, French assay marks, maker's mark, shortest length 42.5cm
A SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING The cushion-shaped sapphire weighing 3.02cts within a four-claw setting, between princess-cut diamond shoulders, mounted in 18K gold, diamonds approximately 0.40ct total, ring size L Accompanied by a report from the Gem & Pearl Laboratory in London, stating that the sapphire weighing 3.02cts is of Sri Lankan origin, with no indications of heating. Report number 19227, dated October 30th 2020
A DIAMOND 'PROTOCOLE' PENDANT ON CHAIN, BY PIAGET Composed of a pendant pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds, suspending three fine trace-link chain tassels with similarly-cut diamond terminals, the pendant suspending from a trace-link chain terminating with a clasp and 'P' link, mounted in 18K gold, diamonds approximately 1.10cts total, signed Piaget, numbered, pendant length 7.8cm, chain length 44cm
A FINE TANZANITE AND DIAMOND RING The rectangular cut-cornered tanzanite weighing 10.11cts within a four-claw setting, between baguette-cut diamond shoulders, mounted in 18K gold, diamonds approximately 0.70ct total, ring size M Accompanied by a report from The Gem & Pearl laboratory in London stating that the tanzanite weighing 10.11cts is of natural origin. Report number 19179, dated October 23rd 2020
A SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING The rectangular cushion-shaped sapphire weighing 7.02cts within a four-claw setting and between trillion-cut diamond shoulders, mounted in 18K gold, diamonds approximately 0.50ct total, ring size L½ Accompanied by a report from 'The Gem & Pearl Laboratory' in London stating that the sapphire weighing 7.02cts, is of Sri Lankan origin, with no indications of heating. Report number 19041, dated October 6th 2020
A SILVER BROOCH, DESIGNED BY HENNING KOPPEL FOR GEORG JENSEN, CIRCA 1950 Designed as an abstract sail boat, with maker's mark for 'Georg Jensen' since 1945, numbered '375', stamped '925 S Denmark', width 7cm Henning Koppel (1918-1981) was a Danish designer and artist well-known as an early pioneer of 20th century functionalism. He studied sculpture at the Royal Danish Academy and then later at the Academie Ranson in Paris. As a result of his Jewish background Koppel sought refuge in Sweden during the Second World War. Koppel was one of the more prominent designers to feature with Jensen. His stint began in 1945, prior to this he was mentored by Harald Nielsen On returning to Denmark after the war, he secured a contract working with Georg Jensen, a collaboration that launched his career as a jewellery designer. Amongst his early creations - a series of necklaces and bracelets resembling whale vertebrae and microscopic organisms - were miniature masterpieces of highly original modelling. These designs were unlike anything that had been produced in the Jensen workshop in the previous 40 years and he became one of the most iconic designers for the company. Koppel specialised in abstract forms that were both startling and beautiful. His work, similar to Jensen's has a sculptural element to it. Koppel was mindful of the jewellery he was creating and how it would interact with natural light - Jensen also considered this. Koppel created tactile works, that evoke a wanting to touch them. In the place of jewels, he would use enamels. Koppel created an astonishing range of work throughout his career from one off signature designs to everyday objects. Both were defined by their elegant but functional qualities, in flowing organic forms. Koppel was a master draughtsman who executed precise drawings for his works which allowed him to understand the design's three dimensionality. He won many awards including three Gold Medals at the Milan Triennial, the International Design Award of the American Institute of Designers and the Lunning Prize. Koppel's works are represented in numerous museums worldwide.
A GOLD 'COLLIER DE CHIEN' BANGLE, BY HERMÈS, CIRCA 2018 The oval hinged bangled mounted in 18K yellow gold, signed Hermès, numbered, maker's mark, French assay mark, English hallmarks, with maker's case, circumference 15.8cm, inner diameter 5.8cm Accompanied by its certificate of authenticity from Hermès at Brown Thomas in Dublin, dated August 13th 2019
A ROCK CRYSTAL AND AMETHYST MULTI DROP PENDANT, BY VIVIANNA TORUN BÚLOW-HUBE FOR GEORG JENSEN, CIRCA 1970 The large pendant suspending polished rock crystal and amethyst drops, mounted in silver, with maker's mark for Georg Jensen since 1945, stamped '925 S' & 'Denmark', numbered '135', length 9.5cm, width 6.8cm For similar examples of this pendant, see pages 53 & 162 from 'Georg Jensen, A Tradition Of Splendid Silver' by Janet Drucker Vivianna Torun Born in Malmö, Sweden in 1927 Vivianna Torun Bülow-Hübe, moved to Paris in the 1950s to pursue her career as a jewellery designer. She quickly gained recognition for work and became one of the most important 20th century jewellers and silversmiths. In 1960 she received the Lunning Prize, an award for emerging innovative Scandinavian designers, and a gold medal at the Milan Triennale. Following these successes she met Danish silversmith Georg Jensen, with whom she designed for exclusively from 1969. Torun, is how she is known and how she signs her work, is best known for her distinctive style of contemporary, elegant and simple designs which include smooth stones Torun started to work with Jensen in 1967 and is the designer behind some of the most famous Georg Jensen jewellery designs, including 'Mobius', 'The Vivianna / Open Watch', 'Beans', 'Forget me knot' and 'Hidden Heart'. Torun's work was inspired by natural shapes, transforming metal into flexible forms such as flowers, leaves and flowing water - especially the beach, she remarked on her own designs, which should enhance and move with the body so that it blends with you. It must not overwhelm, but enhance you. She created sculptural, simple, spiral forms that winded around the neck and body. This was deliberate as she liked her jewellery to compliment the figure of a woman. She preferred rock crystals and rutilated quartz rather than precious gemstones. Torun's work is featured in many museums internationally.
A DIAMOND BROOCH WITH MATCHING EARCLIPS, BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS, CIRCA 1960 The large stylised textured gold flowerhead highlighted with a brilliant-cut diamond at the centre, together with a pair of matching earclips, mounted in 18K gold, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered, maker's mark for 'Pery & Fils', French assay marks, brooch length 4.1cm, earclips length 2.5cm
A LARGE OPAL, EMERALD AND DIAMOND COCKTAIL RING The central oval-shaped opal weighing 29.15cts within collet-setting, pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds throughout accented by oval-shaped cabochon emeralds, mounted in 18K gold, diamonds 6.45cts total, emeralds 4.75cts total, ring size P
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