SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RINGThe cushion-shaped sapphire, weighing 13.14 carats, between pavé-set old brilliant-cut diamond shoulders, accented by baguette-cut diamonds, ring size H½, cased by Hennell, Frazer & Hawes, 1 Davies St, Mayfair, LondonFootnotes:Accompanied by a report from SSEF stating that the sapphire is of Sri Lankan origin, with no indications of heating. Report number 121146, dated 4th March 2022.For further information on this lot please visit Bonhams.com
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SAPPHIRE, RUBY AND DIAMOND CLASPDesigned as a flowerhead, the central cushion-shaped ruby, weighing 4.07 carats, within six petals, each set with a cushion-shaped sapphire and single-cut diamond surround, the sapphires weighing 2.03, 2.07, 2.52, 3.03, 3.10 and 3.25 carats, diameter approximately 3.7cm, gems illustrated unmountedFootnotes:The six sapphires accompanied by reports from SSEF stating they are of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating. Report numbers 119993, 119992, 119991, 119990, 119989, 119988 all dated 13th December 2021.The ruby accompanied by a report from SSEF stating it is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating. Report number 119987 dated 13th December 2021.Sapphires from Kashmir were first discovered in the late 1870s/early 1880s high up in the snow-clad Great Himalayas of north-western India where a landslide revealed hitherto unknown deposits in a rock valley 4500m above sea level. By 1882 the Maharaja of Kashmir had taken control of the mine that could only be worked from July-September each year due to the high altitude and near perpetual heavy snowfall. Because of its remote location mining techniques were always primitive. This first mine, known as the Old Mine, was really just a series of shallow pits sunk into the rock. Apparently, the first specimens were so huge and abundant, they were studded in places as thick as 'plums in a pudding' and could be plucked from the rock. By 1887 the Old Mine was nearly exhausted and a New Mine, on the valley floor 250m below, gave up some fine sapphires but they were generally of lesser quality, size and quantity. The area was worked sporadically until the late 1920s/early 1930s but the glory years of the 1880s were never repeated. Legend tells that the finest stones from this 30-40 year period were all acquired by the Maharaja and jealously guarded in the chambers of the Kashmir State Treasury. British geologist, Charles Stewart Middlemiss, Superintendent of the Mineral Survey of Jammu and Kashmir State from 1917 until 1930, recorded seeing some of this fabled hoard, describing the sacks of rough and cut gems as a 'king's ransom', with some sapphires the size of polo balls.The ruby is important for many cultures and historically has been a talisman of power, protection, wealth, status, a cure for illness and a symbol of peace. The Sanskrit name, ratnaraj or 'King of Precious Stones' given to rubies very much embodies the value bestowed upon this gemstone. For over 800 years, the finest rubies have been unearthed in the Mogok Stone Tract region of Burma, now Myanmar. Burmese rubies are prized for their vibrant fiery colour which is caused by high levels of chromium saturating the ground from which they are mined. It is this colour combined with their strong fluorescence which gives them a glowing, fiery radiance. Today, Kashmir sapphires and Burmese rubies set the standard against which all other sapphires and rubies are measured and are avidly sought by collectors who are prepared to pay princely sums for top-quality specimens. For further reading see, Hughes, R. W., 'Ruby & Sapphire', RWH Publishing, 1997 and Ramsay, A. (with Sparkes, B.), 'Bright Jewels of the Mine', 1934.This lot is subject to the following lot symbols: ΩΩ VAT on imported items at the prevailing rate on Hammer Price and Buyer's Premium.For further information on this lot please visit Bonhams.com
GRIMA: PAIR OF SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND EARCLIPS, CIRCA 1970Each abstract 'flame' with textured wirework highlighted by step-cut sapphires and three baguette-cut diamonds, signed Grima, length 3.5cmFootnotes:Provenance:A Private Collection of 20th Century JewelleryFor further information on this lot please visit Bonhams.com
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS: EMERALD, SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND BRACELET AND EARCLIP SUITE, CIRCA 1960The articulating ropetwist leaves set with graduations of brilliant-cut diamonds, circular-cut emeralds and sapphires, with matching earclips, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered 7089 CS and 7090 CS, maker's marks P & Fils for Péry & Fils, French assay marks, lengths: bracelet 17.4cm, earclips 2.5cm (2)Footnotes:Provenance:A Private Collection of 20th Century JewelleryFor further information on this lot please visit Bonhams.com
LONGCHAIN WITH MULTIPLE PENDANTS, VARIOUS DATES FROM CIRCA 1860 TO 1910The double row trace-link chain suspending 26 pendants:- gold putto carrying a placard enamel 'M moi 100CC'- silver egg with enamelled reverse intaglios depicting a daisy, a toadstool, a pig, a forget-me-not, a swallow, stamped 900- gold egg locket inset with a single sapphire, French marks- gold egg inset with a single sapphire and a bunny coming out of the top, Austro-Hungarian import marks- green hardstone egg with gems missing, French marks- facetted citrine egg with rose-cut diamond girdle, French marks- gold egg opening to reveal an enamel jack-in-the-box, French marks- gold egg with sapphire and diamond trefoil, French marks- gold egg with bands of facetted rock crystal and a frieze of wild boar and diamond trefoils, Austrian marks- amazonite egg with rose-cut diamond and blue and white enamel decoration, repaired- bloodstone acorn pendant with interior glazed snuff compartment and gold oak leaf finial, French marks- rose quartz egg with ruby girdle, partially struck maker's mark ?K in a rectangular punch,- planished gold egg locket with sapphire and diamond trefoil, two interior glazed compartments, engraved Pâques 1904, overstruck and partially struck marks- gold egg star-set with rubies and diamonds, French mark- gold egg locket inset with cabochon sapphire, glazed interior compartment, French mark- frosted rock crystal egg with multi-gem-set and gold enamel decoration- lapis lazuli egg with diamond band, French marks- opalescent bluish white enamel egg with sapphire girdle (enamel damaged)- gold and pink enamel vinaigrette, French marks- rose quartz egg with facetted rock crystal girdle, French marks- gold egg with turquoise and diamond trefoil (worn marks)- green enamel on silver egg with enamelled pink roses (partially struck marks)- gold rabbit's head in ruby frame- rock crystal with reverse carved intaglio of Agnus Dei, Austro-Hungarian marks- frosted smoky quartz of rabbit with gem-set collar, stamped 585- lilac enamel on silver egg with green enamelled four leaf clover, stamped 800 length 83cmFor further information on this lot please visit Bonhams.com
SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING, CIRCA 1930The oval-cut sapphire, weighing 10.83 carats, between bifurcated shoulders set with old brilliant and single-cut diamonds, accented by calibré-cut sapphires, ring size KFootnotes:Provenance: From an Important French Aristocratic Family.Accompanied by a report from SSEF stating that the sapphire is of Sri Lankan origin with no indications of heating. Report number 120687, dated 3rd February 2022.This lot is subject to the following lot symbols: ΩΩ VAT on imported items at the prevailing rate on Hammer Price and Buyer's Premium.For further information on this lot please visit Bonhams.com
SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING, 19TH CENTURYThe cushion-shaped sapphire within a surround of collet-set old brilliant-cut diamonds, between scrolling shoulders, mounted in silver and gold, diamonds in closed-back settings, diamonds approximately 2.10 carats total, ring size M, cased by D & J Wellby Ltd, By Appointment To The Late King George V, Garrick St, LondonFootnotes:Accompanied by a report from The Gem and Pearl Laboratory. Please contact the department for further information.For further information on this lot please visit Bonhams.com
SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RINGThe step-cut sapphire, weighing 7.87 carats, within a surround of old brilliant-cut and cushion-shaped diamonds, between scrolling shoulders, on a reeded hoop, foiled closed-back settings throughout, 19th century composite, ring size Q, cased by Richard Odgen, 28 & 29 Burlington Arcade, LondonFootnotes:Accompanied by a report The Gem & Pearl Laboratory stating that the sapphire is of Sri Lankan origin, with no evidence of heat treatment. Report number 21179, dated 11th February 2022.For further information on this lot please visit Bonhams.com
SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND BRACELET, CIRCA 1930The rectangular plaques accented by central oval-cut sapphires, within surrounds of cushion-shaped, oval and circular-cut sapphires, the openwork foliate detail and links between set with old brilliant and rose-cut diamonds, mounted in silver and gold, old brilliant-cut diamonds approximately 3.00 carats total, length 19.0cm, fitted case by Lamberto Tosato, Via Bocca Leone 50, RomeFor further information on this lot please visit Bonhams.com
CHOPARD: DIAMOND 'HAPPY SPORT' WRISTWATCHThe circular dial with Roman numerals and seven 'happy diamonds' within a brilliant-cut diamond bezel, with sapphire winder, on a leather strap, signed Chopard on dial, case and clasp, numbered 1629881, 8475, length 22.0cmFor further information on this lot please visit Bonhams.com
WOLFERS: SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND BROOCH AND EARCLIP SUITE, CIRCA 1980The bow brooch invisibly-set with calibré-cut sapphires, accented by brilliant-cut diamonds, the earclips of matching design, signed Wolfers, French assay marks, three sapphires in one earring are damaged, lengths: brooch 5.5cm, earclips 1.50cm (2)Footnotes:The Wolfers were a family of German goldsmiths and silversmiths. In 1812, brothers Edouard and Guillaume established the Belgian Court Jewellers, Wolfers Frères, in Brussels. Their brother, Louis (1820-1892) joined them in 1842, expanding the business and taking the helm. His son, Philippe (1858-1929) joined the company in 1875, producing jewellery and silver in the Rococo revivalist style. Working alongside his brothers, Max and Robert, together with their cousin, Albert, Philippe's designs shifted towards naturalism and under his direction during the 1890s, Wolfers became one of Belgium's leading Art Nouveau jewellers. Philippe's son, Marcel (1886-1976) eventually took over and is credited with much of the firm's Art Deco designs. Wolfers continued successfully during the mid-20th century until 1975 when Chaumet established a partnership with the business which would last for over ten years. Successive partners have re-established Wolfers as the leading jewellery brand it is today.For further information on this lot please visit Bonhams.com
A gold yellow sapphire and diamond cluster ring, with a cushion cut yellow sapphire, approximately 7.5 x 6.8mm, claw set, to surround of brilliant cut diamonds, claw set to rex collets, with open shoulders and a 'D' section shank, tested as approximately 14ct gold, 3.04g.Finger size ICondition report: Some nibbles/facet junction wear to the yellow sapphire.Outer claws very worn.Shank slightly oval.Wear to the underbezel.Shank has been sized, and additional gold added to the base, in a slightly different colour to the rest of the mount.
Five gold rings, comprising a gold single stone peridot ring, tested as approximately 14ct gold, a gold peridot cluster ring, tested as approximately 9ct gold, a 9ct gold synthetic emerald and diamond ring, Sheffield, a 9ct gold five stone ring, possibly green sapphire, common control mark, and a 9ct gold cabochon ring, Birmingham, together with a base metal ring, 9ct gold - 10.63g total, 14ct gold - 2.29g (6)
Three gold rings, comprising a 9ct gold single stone blue topaz ring, London, a 9ct gold blue topaz and diamond ring, import hallmark Edinburgh, and a 9ct gold five stone sapphire ring, Birmingham 1981, 8.57g total (3)Finger size K¾, J, I½Condition report: Surface marks/scratches to mounts.Some minor facet junctions wear to the blue topazes.Hallmark worn to blue topaz and diamond ring, and a sizing join visible at base of shank.Surface reaching inclusions to some of the sapphires, and a sizing join visible at base of shank of this ring.
A gold sapphire and diamond cluster ring, with an octagonal step cut sapphire to surround of eight cut diamonds, all claw set to tapered chenier shoulders and a 'D' section shank, marked 18ct, tested as approximately 18ct gold, 3.16g.Finger size MCondition report: Sapphire is very scratched and abraded.Claws to sapphire worn and outer claws to diamonds very worn - some worn away entirely.Surface marks/scratches to mount.
A gold sapphire and diamond cluster ring, with a round mixed cut sapphire, possibly synthetic, to surround of eight cut diamonds, grain set to a scalloped edge, to a scalloped gallery, tapered chenier shoulders and a 'D' section shank, tested as approximately 18ct gold, cluster 10mm, 2.60g.Finger size MCondition report: Ring a little dirty, would benefit from being cleaned.Surface marks/scratches to mount.
A gold three stone sapphire and diamond ring, with a circular mixed cut sapphire, probably synthetic, with an eight cut diamond grain set to an illusion collet at each side, to tapered chenier shoulders and a 'D' section shank, tested as approximately 18ct gold, 2.42g.Finger size PCondition report: Sapphire is probably synthetic.Scratches/facet junction wear to the sapphire.Surface marks/scratches to mount.
An 18ct white gold sapphire and diamond ring, with a pear mixed cut sapphire surmounted with two brilliant cut diamonds, claw set, to open crossover shoulders, one side terminated with a brilliant cut diamond, and a plain shank with stabilising beads fitted, import hallmark London 1975, 2.80g.Finger size N approximately
A white gold sapphire and diamond three stone ring, a round mixed cut sapphire with an old brilliant cut diamond at each side, with a total estimated weight of approximately 0.25ct, to tapered chenier shoulders and a plain shank, tested as approximately 18ct gold, 1.97g.Finger size QCondition report: Sapphire is possibly synthetic.Some nibbles to the girdle of the sapphire and both diamonds.Wear to underbezels.Wear to mount.Visible sizing solder joins to shank.
A single row graduated cultured pearl necklace, the cultured pearls, approximately 3.7 to 7.3mm in size, strung knotted to an 18ct white gold sapphire and diamond set safety clasp, Birmingham 1980, 520mm long, 16.51gThe clasp by Cropp & Farr.The necklace is generally in a good condition, with some very very minor discolouration to the silk in places.Very minor facet junction wear to the sapphire.
Two items of jewellery,comprising a gold cultured pearl and gemstone bead bracelet, with polished and faceted gemstone beads, to include agate, moss agate, hessonite garnet, aquamarine and citrine, wire set, joined by wire set cultured pearls and a later section of fetter links, to bolt ring clasp, tested as approximately 9ct gold with later 18ct gold fetter links, 240mm long, 13.48g, and a gold and silver, sapphire and paste cluster ring, with an oval mixed cut sapphire, approximately 10.02 x 8.56 x 2.94mm, claw set, to surround of round cut paste, one deficient, the silver settings to gold pierced basket, tapered shoulders and a plain shank, tested as approximately 9ct gold and silver, 3.68g (2)Finger size N¼Condition report: Bracelet:The fetter links are very worn.Surface reaching inclusions and some chips to some of the gemstones.No jump ring at the end of the bracelet.Ring:One paste deficient. Claws to remaining paste worn - some claws missing entirely. One claw to the sapphire deficient. Some surface reaching inclusions and nicks/nibbles to the sapphire. Basket worn in places. Surface marks/scratches/tarnish to mount.
A diamond and sapphire 18ct gold bar brooch, the central round brilliant cut diamond weighing approximately 0.15 carat, with a round cut sapphire to each side, all claw set to a plain polished tapering 18ct gold bar, hinged pin and safety loop fastening and safety chain to reverse, 57mm wide, weight 4.2gms
A Victorian diamond and ruby ring, the central rectangular panel set with three mixed cut diamonds and four mixed cut rubies, continuing to engraved shoulders and tapering plain polished shank, marks for 'S.U' Chester 1896, size N, together with a George V sapphire and diamond 18ct gold ring, marks for Birmingham 1911, size O, and a George V 9ct gold band, marks for Birmingham 1918, size R, gross weight 7.7gms (3)
A selection of 9ct gold jewellery, to include a 9ct gold curb link chain, 44cm long, a 9ct gold herringbone link chain, 40.5cm long, a sapphire and garnet set 9ct gold bracelet (at fault), 19cm long, a 9ct gold curb link chain, 48cm long (at fault), a fine 10K gold chain, 45cm long, and a 9ct gold rope twist bracelet, 19.5cm long, gross weight of group 15.2gms (6)
A sapphire and diamond cluster ring, the central boat shaped cluster comprising five graduated baguette cut sapphires with a surround of brilliant cut diamonds, cluster measuring 18.8mm x 11.6mm, set in platinum to a plain polished platinum shank, ring size K, weight 6.7gmsCR; All sapphires are present. There are some nibbles and abrasion to the facet edges and girdles of the central sapphires. All diamonds are present and in tact, showing no cracks, fractures or losses. General scratching, wear and tear to stones commensurate with age and use. All claws and settings in good order, showing minimal wear, no thinning, splitting or major damage. Shank in good order, no thinning, splitting, resizing or signs of repair. General scratching, wear and tear to ring commensurate with age and use.
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