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Lot 1285
An early 20th century gem-set long guard chain, set with seventeen circular and oval-shaped gemstones including zircons, garnets, sapphires and a chrysoberyl, in yellow gold collets on fine-link neck chain, 120cm long Accompanied by report number 78141-62 dated 8 February 2018 from GCS London stating that the stones include: 20.00cts of yellow zircons, 3.70cts of brown zircons, a 2.20ct green zircon, 5.00cts of sapphires, an 8.00ct yellow sapphire, 3.70cts of rhodolite garnets, a 3.70cts chrysoberyl and a 1.00ct hessonite garnet.
Lot 1293
A French invisibly-set sapphire and diamond dress ring, c.1940, of architectural design, set with a central line of circular-cut diamonds in platinum flanked with gold scrolls and invisibly-set calibré-cut sapphires to the shoulders, in polished yellow gold, French control marks, with inner re-sizers, size H ½ (approx.)
Lot 1333
A yellow sapphire pendant, the large oval-shaped sapphire is rubover-set in yellow gold and suspends on knife-edge gold links from a smaller oval-shaped sapphire, on fine-link yellow gold neck chain, pendant 4.5cm long, chain 41cm long Accompanied by report number 78131-30 dated 28 November 2017 from GCS London stating that the oval-cut yellow sapphires weigh approximately 4.10 and 18.20cts and are natural sapphires with no indications of heat treatment. Origin: Sri Lanka (Ceylon)
Lot 1361
An Art Deco sapphire and diamond ring, the emerald-cut sapphire is set with graduated baguette-shaped and circular-cut diamond shoulders in platinum, size R ½ Accompanied by report number 78132-25 dated 6 December 2017 from GCS London stating that the octagonal-cut sapphire weighs 8.50cts and is a natural sapphire with no indications of heat treatment. Origin: Burma
Lot 1409
A pair of diamond and sapphire scroll earrings by Rubel Frères, c.1935, each with nine curved branches, set with baguette-shaped diamonds and terminating with an invisibly-set oval-shaped sapphire, the hinged clips with baguette-shaped diamond semi circles with circular-cut diamond borders, French platinum control marks, partially obscured maker's mark in lozenge RFrs.. 29.9g, 4.2cm For a similar pair of earrings by Van Cleef and Arpels see Van Cleef Arpels: The Art of High Jewellery (Paris: Les Arts Décoratifs, 2012), p. 106. Rubel Frères John and his brother Robert opened a workshop on Rue Vivienne in Paris, 1915. The Rubel Frères were producing jewellery that soon caught the eye of the great jewellery houses, such as Van Cleef & Arpels. The quality of their workmanship for the great houses was recognised to the extent that they were allowed to sign some of their pieces with their own maker's mark RFrs. With the outbreak of the war, the brothers followed Van Cleef & Arpels to New York in 1939. They instantly took to the lavish night life. Tradition holds that whilst at the El Chico club, John sketched a flamenco dancer that developed into the first iconic Van Cleef & Arpels ballerina brooches. However, when the rights to produce these pieces could not be agreed, the rift that ensued between the brothers and Van Cleef & Arpels was irreparable. 'Mystery Set' refers to the unique technique associated with Van Cleef & Arpels, which they patented in 1933. The mystery is how rows of gemstones could be so perfectly set whilst no metal to hold them in place could be seen; no claws, collets or mounts were visible. The free-standing illusion is formed by a delicate lattice of rails slotting into grooves cut into the pavilion of each calibré-cut gemstone. The process takes hundreds of hours and could only be undertaken by a very small number of jewellers. Similarly set jewellery by anyone but Van Cleef & Arpels is referred to as 'invisibly-set'. The oval-shaped sapphires in lot 1409 are invisibly-set. Mystery-set pieces are extremely rare. Rarer still are invisibly-set oval stones. The sapphires in lot 1409 slot into the collet rather than a neighbouring stone, as with typical invisible settings, and use screws to their reverse enabling no fittings to be visible when worn.
Lot 1410
A two-row natural pearl necklace, the pearls graduate from 5.8-11mm with a cabochon sapphire and diamond cluster clasp, set in yellow gold, 40cm longest Accompanied by report number 77101-49 dated 16 May 2017 from GCS, London stating that the 86 cream pearls measure approximately 5.8-11mm and are natural saltwater, with the exception of 9 cultured pearls.
Lot 1414
A diamond and sapphire scroll brooch by William Ruser, of folded fabric form and pavé-set with graduated circular-cut diamonds, with lines of French-cut sapphires and further circular-cut diamonds in platinum and white gold, signed Ruser, 6cm long William Ruser was a renowned Hollywood jeweler, whose clients included Ava Gardener and Joan Crawford. He worked with Trabert, Hoeffer-Mauboussin and Van Cleef & Arpels.
Lot 1416
A sapphire and diamond cluster ring, the cushion shaped sapphire weighs approximately 4.00cts, set within a surround of old circular-cut diamonds in platinum, size P Accompanied by report number 78137-64 dated 16 January 2018 from GCS, London stating that the cushion-cut sapphire weighs approximately 4.0cts and is a natural sapphire with no indications of heat treatment. Origin: Burma
Lot 1111
A pair of sapphire and diamond drop earrings, the pear-shaped sapphires are suspended from articulated graduated old cushion-shaped diamonds in white gold, with a conforming Edwardian sapphire and diamond brooch pendant set with a central old cushion-shaped sapphire within scrolling border of old cushion-shaped and circular-cut diamonds in silver and gold, 5cm long
Lot 1184
A sapphire and diamond ring, the oval-shaped sapphire weighs approximately 6.80cts and is set within carved and pierced diamond-set coronet mount, plain white gold shank, size N ½, Garrard case Accompanied by report number 78139-96 dated 25 January 2018 from GCS London stating that the oval-cut sapphire weighs approximately 6.80cts and is a natural sapphire with no indications of heat treatment. Origin: Sri Lanka (Ceylon)
Lot 205
Diamond and sapphire 18ct white gold flower head ring, total diamond weight approx. 0.33 carat, six oval mixed cut blue sapphires, total weight of approx. 4ct, 6mm x 4 average each, claw settings, open wirework basket style mount, ring size P. Condition Report: Very good, all stones and settings intact, very minor wear and tear only.
Lot 229
Art Deco sapphire and diamond 3 row cluster ring, central row containing three square cut blue sapphires, approx. 3mm x 3mm, and six round old cut diamonds, threeeach side, total diamond weight approx. 0.36 carat, mill grain edge decoration, split shoulders, 18ct yellow gold shank, ring size L. Condition Report: Good, all stones and settings intact, wear and tear only.
Lot 261
Sapphire and diamond 18ct white gold cluster ring, central sapphire measuring approx. 7mm x 5mm, tiered surround of approx. 1 carat of brilliant cut diamonds in claw settings,shank stamped ‘750’, ring size P, total weight approx. 4.2g. Condition Report: Very good, all stones and settings in tact, no signs of damage or repair, minimal wear and tear.
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