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Lot 1128
Assorted textiles and accessories including linen table linen with embroidered and drawn thread work, white linen and cotton pillowcases, black velour dress, pale blue work bag with silvered trim and floral sprigged silk lining, lengths of lace trims, various dress makers patterns, length of 1940s Harris tweed etc (two boxes)
Lot 1189
Fourteen boxes of books, to include books on industry (esp. weaving and textiles) such as Murphy's Art of Weaving 1842 and Duncan's Essays on the Art of Weaving 1807 (used condition) with four boxes; Yorkshire interest (esp. Huddersfield); and literature and poetry with a quantity of Everyman edsVarying conditions and editions.
Lot 168
A large Victorian style doll's house with hinged front and one side of the roof with sash windows, enclosing nine rooms and central staircase with two hinged sides to the base enclosing four rooms with electricity, and an extensive quantity of various accessories including furniture, figures, decorative items and textiles, height 106cm, width 81cm, depth 64cm.
Lot 10
VARIOUS HAND WRITTEN ITEMS, LEDGERS, ACCOUNTS, etc,.. including; a LARGE LEATHER MINUTES OF MEETINGS, William C. Jones Limited, various subjects covered, relating to fabric and textiles, along with various day to day business issues, cash books, accounts. TOGETHER WITH TWO LARGER LEDGERS THAT HAVEN'T BEEN FILLED IN
Lot 155
Various textiles including lengths of mainly dress material, two Welsh style pieces of fabric, a travel rug, three modern Eastern embroidered table runners, heavily beaded and embroidered with sequins, gold and silver thread, etc, an Oriental style remnant silk, an Eastern embroidered bag, a piece of Eastern embroidery with gold and silver thread (very worn), another and a piece of fabric embroidered (possibly Middle Eastern) (2 boxes)
Lot 1169
Twenty-one books on Tapestries, Textiles and Embroidery,including: Jules Guiffrey - 'Histoire de la Tapisserie'; 1886, leather binding; W. Gordon Hunton - 'English Decorative Textiles'; M+D King - 'European Textiles in the Keir Collection 400BC to 1800AD'; C. Bunt and E. Rose - 'Two Centuries of English Chintz 1750-1950', etc. (21)
Lot 309
An unusual fine English turned and carved painted mid 18th century wooden doll, with face turned slightly to the right, dark inset glass eyes, unusually carved ears, the light lined eyebrows emphasised by a row of dots above, which also border the eye sockets, delicate profile and slight cleavage, the arms of stuffed cotton and painted wood, her light brown hair wig decorated with artificial flowers and net, wearing original eau de Nil blue silk sack back open robe “à la Française“ with matching petticoat and stomacher, the silk woven with a spot motif, the petticoat with horizontal pleated frilled bands, the open robe trimmed with padded rouleaux robings, the sleeves with triple ruffle cuffs, the stomacher and cuffs trimmed with silk blonde, a matching gathered choker, white linen corset with blue ribbon trim, a linen pocket, cotton shift, a short petticoat of woven diamond design, a short petticoat of linen with stitching simulating quilting and two further long petticoats of ribbed cotton, 1760s - 11½in. (29cm.) height of torso, possible original height - 18in. (45.5cm.) (missing legs and eight fingers, rub to nose, slight wear and silk perishing at hips); a child’s matching eau de Nil silk covered party mask with scalloped gathered top and an original note left by Mrs Frederica Capel-Cure née Cheney dated February 18th 1867, in which she leaves these dolls to her nephew Family history dictates that this group of dolls and textiles, lots 309 to 315, belonged to Isabella Byne, who was born in 1745 and died in 1797, aged 52. She married Ralph Carr in 1758, aged just 13. From research, it appears that Isabella had five children, including three girls: Isabella Carr, born in 1760, Annabella Carr, born in 1763 and Harriet Carr, born in 1771. Therefore it is most probable that the three dolls, dating from around 1760 and the 1780s, were purchased either for these girls or purchased and kept by Isabella as mementos of the girls. They have always passed down the female line, staying in the same family for the last 250 years: Isabelle Carr, née Byne. Harriet Cheney, née Carr – wife of General Cheney of Langley, Derbyshire and Badger, Shropshire. Frederica Capel-Cure, née Cheney - wife of George Capel-Cure. They have remained in the Capel-Cure family home, Blake Hall at Ongar in Essex, since the late 19th Century. Special Auction Services would like to thank Olivia Bristol and Patricia Frost for their kind assistance in cataloguing this collection.
Lot 311
A fine small English turned and carved painted 18th century wooden doll in full formal evening dress, with inset dark glass eyes, stitched brows and eye lashes, the arms of stuffed cotton and painted wood, the white painted legs jointed at the hip, with high-piled elaborately arranged wool wig with a striped silk gauze cap decorated with pearls, artificial flowers and silk ribbons, her cream silk brocade open robe with train woven with coloured flower sprays, cuffs matching her cap, the open robe and petticoat trimmed with rouched silk gauze, a brocade silk reticule hangs from her waist, a chatelaine containing an enamelled watch set at 3.30, a glass bell and watch key, two row pearl choker, her skirts supported by two wired hoops, short shift, linen petticoat, knitted silk stockings and brocade shoes - 13in. (33cm.) high (slight wear to face, fingers missing on left hand)Family history dictates that this group of dolls and textiles, lots 309 to 315, belonged to Isabella Byne, who was born in 1745 and died in 1797, aged 52. She married Ralph Carr in 1758, aged just 13. From research, it appears that Isabella had five children, including three girls: Isabella Carr, born in 1760, Annabella Carr, born in 1763 and Harriet Carr, born in 1771. Therefore it is most probable that the three dolls, dating from around 1760 and the 1780s, were purchased either for these girls or purchased and kept by Isabella as mementos of the girls. They have always passed down the female line, staying in the same family for the last 250 years: Isabelle Carr, née Byne. Harriet Cheney, née Carr – wife of General Cheney of Langley, Derbyshire and Badger, Shropshire. Frederica Capel-Cure, née Cheney - wife of George Capel-Cure. They have remained in the Capel-Cure family home, Blake Hall at Ongar in Essex, since the late 19th Century. Special Auction Services would like to thank Olivia Bristol and Patricia Frost for their kind assistance in cataloguing this collection.
Lot 310
Isabella Byne’s christening layette, 1745, a fine and rare quality cream silk satin open christening robe with pleated front and back, elaborately decorated with silk fringing and fly braid in waves encircling and decorating the robe, the neck opening fastened by shoulder strips attached to the bodice - 31in. (79cm.) back neck to hem; a matching layette basket cover stitched with overall complicated quilting design, the gathered border with three rows of braiding - 27in. (69cm.) x 24in. (61cm); a pin-cushion with sewn and pricked design and I.B. and 1745 in pins - 5½in. (14cm.) long; and a handwritten note from Mrs Frederica Capel-Cure in which she writes about her grandmother’s christening garmentsFamily history dictates that this group of dolls and textiles, lots 309 to 315, belonged to Isabella Byne, who was born in 1745 and died in 1797, aged 52. She married Ralph Carr in 1758, aged just 13. From research, it appears that Isabella had five children, including three girls: Isabella Carr, born in 1760, Annabella Carr, born in 1763 and Harriet Carr, born in 1771. Therefore it is most probable that the three dolls, dating from around 1760 and the 1780s, were purchased either for these girls or purchased and kept by Isabella as mementos of the girls. They have always passed down the female line, staying in the same family for the last 250 years: Isabelle Carr, née Byne. Harriet Cheney, née Carr – wife of General Cheney of Langley, Derbyshire and Badger, Shropshire. Frederica Capel-Cure, née Cheney - wife of George Capel-Cure. They have remained in the Capel-Cure family home, Blake Hall at Ongar in Essex, since the late 19th Century. Special Auction Services would like to thank Olivia Bristol and Patricia Frost for their kind assistance in cataloguing this collection.
Lot 314
Four oval dressing table trinket dishes, mid 18th century, covered with pink ribbed silk similar to the previous lot, the rim and foot made from pins woven with yellow and white silk yarn, silver braid and I.B. embroidered in each centre, the largest - 5½in. (13.5cm.) wide, the three smaller - 4½in. (11.5cm.) wide (faded) - possibly part of Isabella Byne’s wedding trousseau of 1758Family history dictates that this group of dolls and textiles, lots 309 to 315, belonged to Isabella Byne, who was born in 1745 and died in 1797, aged 52. She married Ralph Carr in 1758, aged just 13. From research, it appears that Isabella had five children, including three girls: Isabella Carr, born in 1760, Annabella Carr, born in 1763 and Harriet Carr, born in 1771. Therefore it is most probable that the three dolls, dating from around 1760 and the 1780s, were purchased either for these girls or purchased and kept by Isabella as mementos of the girls. They have always passed down the female line, staying in the same family for the last 250 years: Isabelle Carr, née Byne. Harriet Cheney, née Carr – wife of General Cheney of Langley, Derbyshire and Badger, Shropshire. Frederica Capel-Cure, née Cheney - wife of George Capel-Cure. They have remained in the Capel-Cure family home, Blake Hall at Ongar in Essex, since the late 19th Century. Special Auction Services would like to thank Olivia Bristol and Patricia Frost for their kind assistance in cataloguing this collection.
Lot 313
A ladies reticule or work bag, mid 18th century, of pink ribbed silk with ribbon work and chenille flowers, silk fringing, ribbon drawstring and I.B. initials in garlands on underside, circa 1758 - 8in. (20cm.) high (faded) - possibly part of Isabella Byne’s wedding trousseau and similar to the bag held by the smallest doll, lot 311Family history dictates that this group of dolls and textiles, lots 309 to 315, belonged to Isabella Byne, who was born in 1745 and died in 1797, aged 52. She married Ralph Carr in 1758, aged just 13. From research, it appears that Isabella had five children, including three girls: Isabella Carr, born in 1760, Annabella Carr, born in 1763 and Harriet Carr, born in 1771. Therefore it is most probable that the three dolls, dating from around 1760 and the 1780s, were purchased either for these girls or purchased and kept by Isabella as mementos of the girls. They have always passed down the female line, staying in the same family for the last 250 years: Isabelle Carr, née Byne. Harriet Cheney, née Carr – wife of General Cheney of Langley, Derbyshire and Badger, Shropshire. Frederica Capel-Cure, née Cheney - wife of George Capel-Cure. They have remained in the Capel-Cure family home, Blake Hall at Ongar in Essex, since the late 19th Century. Special Auction Services would like to thank Olivia Bristol and Patricia Frost for their kind assistance in cataloguing this collection.
Lot 312
A large English turned and carved painted 18th century wooden doll, with inset dark glass eyes, painted and stitched brows and eye lashes, bright pink cheeks, the arms of stuffed cotton and painted wood with elongated fingers, the white painted legs jointed at thigh and knee with carved calves, with high-piled dark brown stuffed wool wig elaborately arranged in curls falling to the shoulders, wearing original yellow striped silk open robe with train edged with puckered silk net and green silk petticoat trimmed with later cream silk bobbled braid and fine ruched net, the bodice over boned blue corset, striped silk muslin shawl, elaborate sash and cap trimmed with feathers, bows, gauze and fringing, a corsage of artificial flowers, ribbon at neck, a cotton shift, stiffened short petticoat, scalloped cut linen petticoat, knitted cotton stocking and flat heeled leather shoe - 24in. (61cm.) high (missing one lower leg, replaced chip to forehead, rubbed nose and lips, some varnish missing from forehead, missing tips of two fingers and some silk perishing)Family history dictates that this group of dolls and textiles, lots 309 to 315, belonged to Isabella Byne, who was born in 1745 and died in 1797, aged 52. She married Ralph Carr in 1758, aged just 13. From research, it appears that Isabella had five children, including three girls: Isabella Carr, born in 1760, Annabella Carr, born in 1763 and Harriet Carr, born in 1771. Therefore it is most probable that the three dolls, dating from around 1760 and the 1780s, were purchased either for these girls or purchased and kept by Isabella as mementos of the girls. They have always passed down the female line, staying in the same family for the last 250 years: Isabelle Carr, née Byne. Harriet Cheney, née Carr – wife of General Cheney of Langley, Derbyshire and Badger, Shropshire. Frederica Capel-Cure, née Cheney - wife of George Capel-Cure. They have remained in the Capel-Cure family home, Blake Hall at Ongar in Essex, since the late 19th Century. Special Auction Services would like to thank Olivia Bristol and Patricia Frost for their kind assistance in cataloguing this collection.
Lot 315
A rare pair of white kid dolls’ dancing slippers, circa 1790, cut with two chevrons to reveal pink kid, pink trim and laces, brown suede soles - 3in. (7.5cm.) longFamily history dictates that this group of dolls and textiles, lots 309 to 315, belonged to Isabella Byne, who was born in 1745 and died in 1797, aged 52. She married Ralph Carr in 1758, aged just 13. From research, it appears that Isabella had five children, including three girls: Isabella Carr, born in 1760, Annabella Carr, born in 1763 and Harriet Carr, born in 1771. Therefore it is most probable that the three dolls, dating from around 1760 and the 1780s, were purchased either for these girls or purchased and kept by Isabella as mementos of the girls. They have always passed down the female line, staying in the same family for the last 250 years: Isabelle Carr, née Byne. Harriet Cheney, née Carr – wife of General Cheney of Langley, Derbyshire and Badger, Shropshire. Frederica Capel-Cure, née Cheney - wife of George Capel-Cure. They have remained in the Capel-Cure family home, Blake Hall at Ongar in Essex, since the late 19th Century. Special Auction Services would like to thank Olivia Bristol and Patricia Frost for their kind assistance in cataloguing this collection.
Lot 400Z
Sir Norman Hartnell and royal gowns, a Liberty box containing fabrics. The following is a description and provenance provided by our vendor. 'This box belonged to Betty Smith, who was a seamstress at Norman Hartnell's workshop. It is a Liberty's box with the name Smith and an address in Highgate. It contains two large pieces of Lullingstone silk which Betty Smith treasured as they were pieces from Queen Elizabeth's wedding dress, of which she was the seamstress for the left hand panel of the bodice. It also contains a long strip of embroidered roses, forget me nots and lily of the valley from an evening dress of Princess Margaret's which was altered. There are also plain pieces from this dress. I was given the box and told its history by Betty Smith's priest at the time of her death because he knew of my interest in textiles. She was living in St John's Wood at the time and there is an article about her with photographs at Note: Betty Smith was an accomplished embroiderer for Norman Hartnell. The panels of the bodice on the then Princess Elizabeth's wedding dress were studded with sequins, diamante and pearls. She loved hand beading and could sew on 1000 sequins an hour. Betty's married name was Goddard. She had one son, Stuart Goddard, who is better known as the 1980s pop icon Adam Ant.
Lot 32
NORAH NEILSON GRAY R.S.W. (SCOTTISH 1882-1931) 'EXOTIC' Signed, oil on canvas 113cm x 87cm (44.5in x 34.25in) Exhibited:Royal Glasgow Institute of the Fine Arts 1924, no.283, Ill.48 Kelvingrove Museum and Art Gallery, Glasgow Girls - Women in Art and Design 1880-1920, 1990-91, Illustrated fig. 315 Note:The model for the painting was Rita McIlraith but the artist did not want to use her name in the title and hence it was called 'Exotic.' Norah Neilson Gray was a Scottish artist known for her striking portraits, and remarkable ability to capture the essence of the sitter. She achieved international status and recognition during her lifetime, and was one of the most esteemed female painters of the early twentieth century. Born in 1882 in Helensburgh, Gray began her artistic career at 'The Studio'; a private drawing studio where young ladies received artistic instruction before they were granted entry into the schools of art. The studio received notable visits from 'Glasgow Boy' artists, such as Alexander Roche and John Lavery. Soon after, in 1901, Neilson gained entry to the Glasgow School of Art. Impressively, whilst still a student, she exhibited at the Salon in Paris, as well as the Glasgow Institute and the Royal Academy, where she was to continue to show until 1926. After graduating in 1906, she stayed at the school to teach fashion and design. By 1910 Gray had her own studio, and held her first solo show at Warneuke's Gallery in Glasgow. Following the outbreak of the First World War, she went to France to work as a Voluntary Aid Detachment nurse for the Scottish Women's Hospital. During her limited free time she continued to paint, and used her experience to produce some of her most emotionally powerful work. After the end of the war she returned to Glasgow where she quickly began to receive a large number of commissions for portraits, many from well-known Glaswegians. In the spirit of Gustav Klimt, Gray was known for giving prominence to flowers, textiles and other decorative elements. In 1921 her talent was further recognised when she became the first women to be appointed to the hanging committee of the Royal Glasgow Institute of Fine Arts. Following this, her successful career continued, and she regularly exhibited in Scotland, London and Paris. At the time of her early death in 1931, she was considered 'the foremost Scottish female painter'. Exotic (1923) was painted at the height of Gray's artistic career - the same year she won her second Bronze Medal at the Paris Salon. The painting was kept as a 'masterpiece' work, on show in her studio to demonstrate her skill to potential patrons. Gray's talent and experience as a design teacher is reflected in the sitter's exquisite yellow dress, fashionable necklace and matching bright earrings. Surrounded by an array of flowers, which subtly echo the patterns on her clothing, the image reinterprets notions of orientalism and the exotic. She is depicted against a stark background which allows the viewer to focus and marvel at her beauty. The dress reveals the sitter's shoulders and pale skin, which is complimented by her dark hair and striking red lips. Depicted sitting down with her hands clasped, her direct gaze confronts the viewer, whilst her rather sombre expression juxtaposes with the bright and colourful clothing. The piece is an excellent example of Gray's masterful handling of paint, and remarkable talent as a portraitist.
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