19
‡ Cartier: A gold necklace by Georges Lenfant with a detachable Imperial topaz and diamond cluster
1/7
30,000
GBP
London
Description
Cartier: A gold necklace by Georges Lenfant with a detachable Imperial topaz and diamond cluster
1960
The 18 carat gold necklace of polished and matte woven design in a herringbone pattern, featuring a detachable spacer that converts into a brooch, centrally set with a step-cut topaz, each of the four claws buttressed by a baguette-cut diamond, within an oval angled surround pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds, diamonds approx. 4.50 carats total, topaz approx. 24.50 carats, necklace signed Cartier, partial maker's mark GL for Georges Lenfant, numbered, maker's mark JC and London import mark, French export marks, brooch unsigned, lengths: necklace 37.3cm, brooch 3.3cmAccompanied by a fitted Cartier case.Please note this lot will be subject to VAT of 5% on the hammer price.
The design of this brooch is identical to two which featured in a Cartier necklace previously sold at Christie's sentinel auction “Jewellery and Objects by Cartier” held in Geneva on the 25 May 1993, lot 799. As with this example, that necklace was unsigned but was presented with a catalogue footnote “Although not signed, this necklace was purchased by the present owner at Cartier, London in July 1962”.Georges Lenfant (sometimes seen as "L’Enfant") and his son Jacques Lenfant are regarded as some of the most skilled goldsmiths of the 20th century. Their distinctive work is now highly sought after by collectors. However, throughout their careers they operated behind the scenes, making exquisite jewellery for the famous Parisian jewellers of the Place Vendôme and Rue de la Paix. He was a workmaster for Cartier, as well as making creations for Mellerio, Hermès, and Van Cleef & Arpels amongst others. Born into the jewellery trade, Georges Lenfant set up his own workshop around the turn of the last century. In 1903 he was listed in the ‘Revue de la Bijouterie, Joaillerie, Orfèvrerie’. By 1909 he had registered his distinctive maker's mark. In 1915 Jacques Lenfant began helping in his father's workshop at just 11 years old. He continued his education studying in France, Germany, Austria and England before formerly joining the company in 1927. Following the Second World War, Jacques took over control of the company. It was Jacques who in the late 1950s pioneered the now iconic woven and textured goldsmithing techniques for which the house became world famous. Jacques Lenfant died in 1996 and the company was subsequently purchased by Benjamin Leneman in 1998, thereafter becoming the Bouder workshop. Jacques teaching roles at the Chambre Syndicale de la Joaillerie, Bijouterie et Orfèvrerie were testament to his dedication to goldsmithing education. In 1980 he created an award to celebrate top students, which is still awarded today. He also wrote the book Le Livre de la Chaîne, which was commissioned by the Chambre Syndicale, but was sadly only published posthumously in 1996.The pattern of this necklace is identified in Le Livre du Chaine as "Tissu Polonais Presse Empire Relief" or Polish Press Empire Relief Fabric, see page 90. This was a term Lenfant used to describe a distinct type of woven gold chain designed as an homage to patterns in traditional Polish and Milanese fabric.
1960
The 18 carat gold necklace of polished and matte woven design in a herringbone pattern, featuring a detachable spacer that converts into a brooch, centrally set with a step-cut topaz, each of the four claws buttressed by a baguette-cut diamond, within an oval angled surround pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds, diamonds approx. 4.50 carats total, topaz approx. 24.50 carats, necklace signed Cartier, partial maker's mark GL for Georges Lenfant, numbered, maker's mark JC and London import mark, French export marks, brooch unsigned, lengths: necklace 37.3cm, brooch 3.3cmAccompanied by a fitted Cartier case.Please note this lot will be subject to VAT of 5% on the hammer price.
The design of this brooch is identical to two which featured in a Cartier necklace previously sold at Christie's sentinel auction “Jewellery and Objects by Cartier” held in Geneva on the 25 May 1993, lot 799. As with this example, that necklace was unsigned but was presented with a catalogue footnote “Although not signed, this necklace was purchased by the present owner at Cartier, London in July 1962”.Georges Lenfant (sometimes seen as "L’Enfant") and his son Jacques Lenfant are regarded as some of the most skilled goldsmiths of the 20th century. Their distinctive work is now highly sought after by collectors. However, throughout their careers they operated behind the scenes, making exquisite jewellery for the famous Parisian jewellers of the Place Vendôme and Rue de la Paix. He was a workmaster for Cartier, as well as making creations for Mellerio, Hermès, and Van Cleef & Arpels amongst others. Born into the jewellery trade, Georges Lenfant set up his own workshop around the turn of the last century. In 1903 he was listed in the ‘Revue de la Bijouterie, Joaillerie, Orfèvrerie’. By 1909 he had registered his distinctive maker's mark. In 1915 Jacques Lenfant began helping in his father's workshop at just 11 years old. He continued his education studying in France, Germany, Austria and England before formerly joining the company in 1927. Following the Second World War, Jacques took over control of the company. It was Jacques who in the late 1950s pioneered the now iconic woven and textured goldsmithing techniques for which the house became world famous. Jacques Lenfant died in 1996 and the company was subsequently purchased by Benjamin Leneman in 1998, thereafter becoming the Bouder workshop. Jacques teaching roles at the Chambre Syndicale de la Joaillerie, Bijouterie et Orfèvrerie were testament to his dedication to goldsmithing education. In 1980 he created an award to celebrate top students, which is still awarded today. He also wrote the book Le Livre de la Chaîne, which was commissioned by the Chambre Syndicale, but was sadly only published posthumously in 1996.The pattern of this necklace is identified in Le Livre du Chaine as "Tissu Polonais Presse Empire Relief" or Polish Press Empire Relief Fabric, see page 90. This was a term Lenfant used to describe a distinct type of woven gold chain designed as an homage to patterns in traditional Polish and Milanese fabric.
Auction Details
Shipping
T&Cs & Important Info
Ask seller a question
Cartier: A gold necklace by Georges Lenfant with a detachable Imperial topaz and diamond cluster
1960
The 18 carat gold necklace of polished and matte woven design in a herringbone pattern, featuring a detachable spacer that converts into a brooch, centrally set with a step-cut topaz, each of the four claws buttressed by a baguette-cut diamond, within an oval angled surround pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds, diamonds approx. 4.50 carats total, topaz approx. 24.50 carats, necklace signed Cartier, partial maker's mark GL for Georges Lenfant, numbered, maker's mark JC and London import mark, French export marks, brooch unsigned, lengths: necklace 37.3cm, brooch 3.3cmAccompanied by a fitted Cartier case.Please note this lot will be subject to VAT of 5% on the hammer price.
The design of this brooch is identical to two which featured in a Cartier necklace previously sold at Christie's sentinel auction “Jewellery and Objects by Cartier” held in Geneva on the 25 May 1993, lot 799. As with this example, that necklace was unsigned but was presented with a catalogue footnote “Although not signed, this necklace was purchased by the present owner at Cartier, London in July 1962”.Georges Lenfant (sometimes seen as "L’Enfant") and his son Jacques Lenfant are regarded as some of the most skilled goldsmiths of the 20th century. Their distinctive work is now highly sought after by collectors. However, throughout their careers they operated behind the scenes, making exquisite jewellery for the famous Parisian jewellers of the Place Vendôme and Rue de la Paix. He was a workmaster for Cartier, as well as making creations for Mellerio, Hermès, and Van Cleef & Arpels amongst others. Born into the jewellery trade, Georges Lenfant set up his own workshop around the turn of the last century. In 1903 he was listed in the ‘Revue de la Bijouterie, Joaillerie, Orfèvrerie’. By 1909 he had registered his distinctive maker's mark. In 1915 Jacques Lenfant began helping in his father's workshop at just 11 years old. He continued his education studying in France, Germany, Austria and England before formerly joining the company in 1927. Following the Second World War, Jacques took over control of the company. It was Jacques who in the late 1950s pioneered the now iconic woven and textured goldsmithing techniques for which the house became world famous. Jacques Lenfant died in 1996 and the company was subsequently purchased by Benjamin Leneman in 1998, thereafter becoming the Bouder workshop. Jacques teaching roles at the Chambre Syndicale de la Joaillerie, Bijouterie et Orfèvrerie were testament to his dedication to goldsmithing education. In 1980 he created an award to celebrate top students, which is still awarded today. He also wrote the book Le Livre de la Chaîne, which was commissioned by the Chambre Syndicale, but was sadly only published posthumously in 1996.The pattern of this necklace is identified in Le Livre du Chaine as "Tissu Polonais Presse Empire Relief" or Polish Press Empire Relief Fabric, see page 90. This was a term Lenfant used to describe a distinct type of woven gold chain designed as an homage to patterns in traditional Polish and Milanese fabric.
1960
The 18 carat gold necklace of polished and matte woven design in a herringbone pattern, featuring a detachable spacer that converts into a brooch, centrally set with a step-cut topaz, each of the four claws buttressed by a baguette-cut diamond, within an oval angled surround pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds, diamonds approx. 4.50 carats total, topaz approx. 24.50 carats, necklace signed Cartier, partial maker's mark GL for Georges Lenfant, numbered, maker's mark JC and London import mark, French export marks, brooch unsigned, lengths: necklace 37.3cm, brooch 3.3cmAccompanied by a fitted Cartier case.Please note this lot will be subject to VAT of 5% on the hammer price.
The design of this brooch is identical to two which featured in a Cartier necklace previously sold at Christie's sentinel auction “Jewellery and Objects by Cartier” held in Geneva on the 25 May 1993, lot 799. As with this example, that necklace was unsigned but was presented with a catalogue footnote “Although not signed, this necklace was purchased by the present owner at Cartier, London in July 1962”.Georges Lenfant (sometimes seen as "L’Enfant") and his son Jacques Lenfant are regarded as some of the most skilled goldsmiths of the 20th century. Their distinctive work is now highly sought after by collectors. However, throughout their careers they operated behind the scenes, making exquisite jewellery for the famous Parisian jewellers of the Place Vendôme and Rue de la Paix. He was a workmaster for Cartier, as well as making creations for Mellerio, Hermès, and Van Cleef & Arpels amongst others. Born into the jewellery trade, Georges Lenfant set up his own workshop around the turn of the last century. In 1903 he was listed in the ‘Revue de la Bijouterie, Joaillerie, Orfèvrerie’. By 1909 he had registered his distinctive maker's mark. In 1915 Jacques Lenfant began helping in his father's workshop at just 11 years old. He continued his education studying in France, Germany, Austria and England before formerly joining the company in 1927. Following the Second World War, Jacques took over control of the company. It was Jacques who in the late 1950s pioneered the now iconic woven and textured goldsmithing techniques for which the house became world famous. Jacques Lenfant died in 1996 and the company was subsequently purchased by Benjamin Leneman in 1998, thereafter becoming the Bouder workshop. Jacques teaching roles at the Chambre Syndicale de la Joaillerie, Bijouterie et Orfèvrerie were testament to his dedication to goldsmithing education. In 1980 he created an award to celebrate top students, which is still awarded today. He also wrote the book Le Livre de la Chaîne, which was commissioned by the Chambre Syndicale, but was sadly only published posthumously in 1996.The pattern of this necklace is identified in Le Livre du Chaine as "Tissu Polonais Presse Empire Relief" or Polish Press Empire Relief Fabric, see page 90. This was a term Lenfant used to describe a distinct type of woven gold chain designed as an homage to patterns in traditional Polish and Milanese fabric.
Cartier Curated
Sale Date(s)
Venue Address
22 Connaught St
London
W2 2AF
United Kingdom
General delivery information available from the auctioneer
Our saleroom team are always on hand to help, whether you are collecting in person or require advice about recommended carriers.
If you attend an auction in person and are successful in your bid, you are free to collect and remove your item there and then once payment has been cleared. If you are not able to do so we are happy to recommend a number of carriers who will be able to arrange packing and shipping for you. Please contact them directly to receive a quote for costs. You are, of course, very welcome to use an alternative courier.
UK & International - Smaller items and paintings
Mailboxes Etc
44/46 Morningside Road
Edinburgh, EH10 4BF
Tel: 0131 556 6226
info@mbeedinburgh.com
www.mbe.co.uk/auctionroom
Mailboxes Etc
8 Shepherd Market
Mayfair
London, W1J 7JY
Tel: 0207 491 0022
info@mbemayfair.co.uk
Mailboxes Etc
61 Praed Street
London, W2 1NS
Tel: 0207 706 3666
info@mbepaddington.co.uk
Pack & Send Edinburgh East
53 Elm Row
Leith Walk
Edinburgh, EH7 4AH
Tel: 0131 201 2244
edinburgheast@packsend.co.uk
www.packsend.co.uk/edinburgheast
Local Deliveries - Larger items
A&S Pert Removals
Tel: 07876 343520
New Leaf Removals
Tel: 07999 926261
UK & International - Larger items
Aardvark Art Services Ltd
Tel: 01253 794 673
info@aardvarkartservices.com
Constantine Moving Services (Specialists in UK & International Shipping)
Constantine House
North Caldeen Road
Coatbridge, ML5 4EF
Tel: 01236 430 681
allanak@constantinemoving.com
A Van Man Transport
Unit 5, Benridge Park
Holyrood Close, Creekmoor
Poole, Dorset, BH17 7BD
Tel: 01202 600 012
office@avmt.co.uk
Gallery Support Group
Unit 4, 89 Manor Farm Road
Wembley
London, HA0 1BA
Tel: 020 305 307 53
info@gallerysupportgroup.com
Important Information
BUYER'S PREMIUM
The buyer shall pay the hammer price together with a premium, at the following rate, thereon.
26% up to £20,000
25% from £20,001 to £500,000
20% thereafter
VAT will be charged on the premium at the rate imposed by law (see our Conditions of Sale at the back of this catalogue).
ADDITIONAL VAT
† VAT at the standard rate payable on the hammer price
‡ Reduced rate of 5% import VAT payable on the hammer price
[Ω] Standard rate of import VAT on the hammer price
Lots affixed with ‡ or [Ω] symbols may be subject to further regulations upon export /import, please see Conditions of Sale for Buyers Section D.2.
No VAT is payable on the hammer price or premium for books bought at auction
REGISTRATION
All potential buyers must register prior to placing a bid. Paddle registration must be completed in advance of the sale day. Please note that all first-time, and those returning after an extended period, bidders at Lyon & Turnbull will be asked to supply the following documents in order to facilitate registration:
1 – Government issued photo ID (Passport/Driving licence)
2 – Proof of address (utility bill/bank statement).
By registering for the sale, the buyer acknowledges that he or she has read, understood and accepted our Conditions of Sale.
ARTIST’S RESALE ROYALTY (DROIT DE SUITE)
§ indicates works which may be subject to the Droit de Suite or Artist’s Resale Right, which took effect in the United Kingdom on 14th February 2006. We are required to collect a royalty payment for all qualifying works of art. Under new legislation which came into effect on 1st January 2012 this applies to living artists and artists who have died in the last 70 years. This royalty will be charged to the Buyer on the Hammer Price and in addition to the Buyer’s Premium. It will not apply to works where the Hammer Price is less than £1,000. The charge for works of art sold at and above £1,000 and below £50,000 is 4%. For items selling above £50,000, charges are calculated on a sliding scale. All royalty charges are paid to the Design and Artists Copyright Society (‘DACS’) and no handling costs or additional fees are retained by the Auctioneer. Resale royalties are not subject to VAT.
More information on Droit de Suite is available at www.dacs.org.uk
REMOVAL OF PURCHASES
Responsibility for packing, shipping and insurance shall be exclusively that of the purchaser. See Collections & Storage section for more info specific to this particular auction.
COLLECTION OF PURCHASES (SALE 855 CARTIER CURATED)
All purchases can be collected from our London venue, by appointment, from 29th April onwards.
Lyon & Turnbull, 22 Connaught St, London, W2 2AF
Tel 020 7930 9115 | london@lyonandturnbull.com
CATALOGUE DESCRIPTIONS
All item descriptions, dimensions and estimates are provided for guidance only. It is the buyer’s responsibility to inspect all lots prior to bidding to ensure that the condition is to their satisfaction. Our specialists will be happy to prepare condition reports and additional images. These are for guidance only and all lots are sold ‘as found’, as per our Conditions of Sale.
IMPORT/EXPORT
Prospective buyers are advised that several countries prohibit the importation of property containing materials from endangered species, including but not limited to; rosewood, rhino horn, ivory, coral and tortoiseshell. Accordingly, prospective buyers should familiarise themselves with all relevant customs regulations prior to bidding if they intend to import lots to another country. It is the buyer’s sole responsibility to obtain any relevant export or import licence. The denial of any licence or any delay in obtaining licences shall neither justify the recession of any sale nor any delay in making full payment for the lot.
ENDANGERED SPECIES
Please be aware that lots marked with the symbol Y contain material which may be subject to CITES regulations when exporting outside Great Britain. For more information visit https://www.defra.gov.uk/ahvla-en/imports-exports/cites
Terms & Conditions
UK - Conditions Of Sale For Buyers
These Conditions of Sale and the Saleroom Notices as well as specific Catalogue terms, set out the terms on which we offer the Lots listed in this Catalogue for sale. By registering to bid and/or by bidding at auction You agree to these terms, we recommend that You read them carefully before doing so. You will find a list of definitions and a glossary at the end providing explanations for the meanings of the words and expressions used.
Special terms may be used in Catalogue descriptions of particular classes of items (Books, Jewellery, Paintings, Guns, Firearms, etc.) in which case the descriptions must be interpreted in accordance with any glossary appearing in the Catalogue. These notices and terms will also form part of our terms and conditions of sales.
In these Conditions the words “Us”, “Our”, “We” etc. refers to Lyon & Turnbull Ltd, the singular includes the plural and vice versa as appropriate. “You”, “Your” means the Buyer.
Lyon & Turnbull Ltd. acts as agent for the Seller. On occasion where Lyon & Turnbull Ltd. own a lot in part or full the property will be identified in the catalogue with the symbol (
