A rare and impressive Victorian Livery collar of the 'Esses' in 9 carat gold, 113g,...

A rare and impressive Victorian Livery collar of the ‘Esses’ in 9 carat gold, 113g, unmarked, comprising sixteen stylised S’s linked in groups of four, separated by central crowned floral badge of the United Kingdom with heraldic symbols of England, Scotland and Ireland, combined with scroll inscribed ‘DIEU ET MON DROIT’, and three Beaufort portcullises, the central of these with push clip clasp, overall length 49cm, contained in its original domed velvet-lined case, 21cm diameter, the interior lid lined in white silk with maker’s details ‘J. W. BENNETT, GOLDSMITH & WATCHMAKER, 16, LLOYD SQUARE, W.C. MASONIC ORDERS EXECUTED.’, several minor test marks, the case with scuffs and signs of wear, otherwise generally good very fine £2,000-£3,000 --- The Lancastrian Collar of Esses was introduced in the late 1300s, but revived by Henry VII in 1845. As an important piece of the late-medieval livery system, the collar was a prestigious symbol of royal power. It would only be awarded to the rank of esquire and above. The ‘S’ has been widely research, possibly representing a combination of saintete (sanctity), sagesse (wisdom), and seigneurie (lordship). However, Soverayne, meaning Sovereign is the most supported, especially in relation to Henry IV. The Portcullis was the Badge of John Beaufort, Marquees of Dorset & Somerset, the son of John Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster and great-grandfather of Henry VII. Henry adopted the symbol and it was used by the first and second Tudor dynasties. Presently, the portcullis is crowned, officially making it a royal symbol and can be found in the Palace of Westminster. The design in which the central link or hanging badge depicts the Crowned Floral Badge is reminiscent of the Esses Collar of the Sergeant-at-Arms. The company of J. W. Bennett located in Lloyd Square was destroyed in the Second World War, along with all associated archives.