Lot

45

A rare brocaded satin pregnancy robe, 1790s,

In Passion for Fashion

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London
A rare brocaded satin pregnancy robe, 1790s, the pale green silk sprigged overall with ivory and peach trefoils tied with tassels, comprising: petticoat with waist ties and two matching bodices, one high fashion (for early pregnancy) in 'pierrot' style cut low and tight with closed front, faux waistcoat panels, short tails to the back lined in striped silk, narrow curved sleeves; the other in open-robe form with inner boned closed front panels and loose deshabillé-like outer panels, the neckline outlined in cartridge pleats, with three ribbon drawstrings to allow for expansion, lined in patches of tartan and striped silk; together with a fine white lawn fichu with whitework embroidered edges (4)For lying-in clothes similar, see 'Monument du Costume: Suite d'estampes pour servir à l'histoire des moeurs et du Costume des Français dans le dix-huitième siècle' published by Prault, Paris 1775-1777 with engravings by Sigmund Freudeberg (1745-1801). CONDITION REPORT: ·Good condition, overall. Exterior satin is clean and good, ensemble has been professionally cleaned. ·Loose robe: slight wear to satin at left underarm, 1x2cm area of fraying at right underarm and faint perspiration stain. Sleeves are lined in warm fustian which is soiled at underarm areas and cuffs. Linen bodice lining is clean and good. It probably has baleen boning centre back which were removed - others in place. Lining is made up from patchworked silk fragments. Yellow areas in particular with splits, numerous holes. Tartan area with patched repair. Lining in fair condition overall. Exterior appearance if fresh and good. Faint droplet stain to front left hem. Small repair to seam at rear left shoulder under collar. Very, very slight, small brown marks at elbows which are barely noticeable. Fabric is wonderful.·Petticoat: faint light brown discolourations in satin front left hem area and front right side, very hard to see. There are faint speckles to rear of skirt generally but these are very hard to see. Linen lining inside is generally clean and good, with faint discolourations and scattered rust spots. ·Short bodice: very, very faint discolouration approx. 7x5cm to front left panel and slight thinning in satin in a vertical line - probably from an old fold (hard to see). Underarms are good, very, very faint perspiration stains but again barely noticeable. Interior is clean and good - slight thinning to striped silk which lines the short tails. Fustian lining in sleeves is soiled in the lower arm/cuff area.·Muslin fichu: small hole rear point, minor.
A rare brocaded satin pregnancy robe, 1790s, the pale green silk sprigged overall with ivory and peach trefoils tied with tassels, comprising: petticoat with waist ties and two matching bodices, one high fashion (for early pregnancy) in 'pierrot' style cut low and tight with closed front, faux waistcoat panels, short tails to the back lined in striped silk, narrow curved sleeves; the other in open-robe form with inner boned closed front panels and loose deshabillé-like outer panels, the neckline outlined in cartridge pleats, with three ribbon drawstrings to allow for expansion, lined in patches of tartan and striped silk; together with a fine white lawn fichu with whitework embroidered edges (4)For lying-in clothes similar, see 'Monument du Costume: Suite d'estampes pour servir à l'histoire des moeurs et du Costume des Français dans le dix-huitième siècle' published by Prault, Paris 1775-1777 with engravings by Sigmund Freudeberg (1745-1801). CONDITION REPORT: ·Good condition, overall. Exterior satin is clean and good, ensemble has been professionally cleaned. ·Loose robe: slight wear to satin at left underarm, 1x2cm area of fraying at right underarm and faint perspiration stain. Sleeves are lined in warm fustian which is soiled at underarm areas and cuffs. Linen bodice lining is clean and good. It probably has baleen boning centre back which were removed - others in place. Lining is made up from patchworked silk fragments. Yellow areas in particular with splits, numerous holes. Tartan area with patched repair. Lining in fair condition overall. Exterior appearance if fresh and good. Faint droplet stain to front left hem. Small repair to seam at rear left shoulder under collar. Very, very slight, small brown marks at elbows which are barely noticeable. Fabric is wonderful.·Petticoat: faint light brown discolourations in satin front left hem area and front right side, very hard to see. There are faint speckles to rear of skirt generally but these are very hard to see. Linen lining inside is generally clean and good, with faint discolourations and scattered rust spots. ·Short bodice: very, very faint discolouration approx. 7x5cm to front left panel and slight thinning in satin in a vertical line - probably from an old fold (hard to see). Underarms are good, very, very faint perspiration stains but again barely noticeable. Interior is clean and good - slight thinning to striped silk which lines the short tails. Fustian lining in sleeves is soiled in the lower arm/cuff area.·Muslin fichu: small hole rear point, minor.

Passion for Fashion

Sale Date(s)
Venue Address
249-253 Long Lane
Bermondsey
London
SE1 4PR
United Kingdom

General delivery information available from the auctioneer

On receipt of cleared funds, lots can be collected from our saleroom. They are available for collection during our office hours – Monday to Friday 9.30-5pm. We provide shipping quotes via our appointed shippers and they provide competitive worldwide quotations for packing and shipping of purchases and are experienced in handling rare costume and textiles.

If you have requested shipping, once payment has been received the goods are released to our shippers, and tracking information is provided to our clients. If clients wish to use their own shippers then our shippers also provide just a packing service.

Please note that for purchasers outside the EU, export invoices excluding VAT will only be issued to clients using our appointed shipper. If another shipper is used then VAT will be charged and then reimbursed only upon documentary proof of export.Buyers are reminded that it is their responsibility to comply with UK export regulations and with any local import requirements. We are happy to assist our clients with CITES applications..

Important Information

Our December auction includes finest French haute couture, important historic dress and cutting edge avant-garde fashion. Each piece is carefully selected for its excellence, rarity, beauty or wearability. From the leading couturiers of their day we have museum-quality pieces by Charles Frederick Worth, Paul Poiret, Gabrielle Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli, Lucien Lelong, Jeanne Lanvin, Mariano Fortuny, Madame Grès, Cristobal Balenciaga, Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, as well as a group of early Galliano and fine McQueen to name but a few.

One of the earliest garments in the auction is the richly embroidered apron c.1720-30 worn by Lady Isabella Bentinck, lot 42. Isabella was well connected – her grandfather the first 1st Earl of Portland was confidante and courtier to King William III and her grandmother was Anne Villiers Maid of Honour to Queen Mary. The apron which was worn purely as additional decoration reflects the wealth of the family. In 1739 Isabella married Henry Monck of Charleville House, Co Wicklow, Ireland and the apron remained in the family for 300 years until being entrusted to us to auction now. Remarkably the embroidery threads look as fresh as the day it was made.

Garments always have added interest if we know who originally owned them. Lots 67 to 94 comprises the 1930s couture wardrobe of stylish mother Maryse Astraudo and her daughter Anne-Marie, including two early Lanvin dresses c.1913 and a rare taffeta child’s dress c.1922. Lanvin was famed for her mother-daughter ensembles but the girl’s dresses are scarce. In the summer of 1935 Anne Marie married Monsieur Christian Bricard, who was director of the large ‘La Belle Jardinière’ department store, on the corner on the Quai Meglisseri, Paris. She chose her favourite couturier Jeanne Lanvin to design her gown of slithering white bias-cut satin complete with celluloid orange blossom headdress and corsage. Although her husband’s department store specialised in ready to wear for the middle classes his wife was dressed in haute couture day and night - mainly by Lanvin, but also Maisons Premet, Rouff, Lenief and Jenny.

Schiaparelli garments from the 1930s are rare but remarkably I discovered three within a few weeks of one another, all with London provenances, see lots 101, 109 and 113. We also have an early Chanel coat c.1918 (lot 58) which had been left outside a charity shop in a black bin bag as an anonymous donation alongside more everyday garments!

We have three Princess Diana dresses ranging from the Caroline Charles tartan printed wool dress she wore at the Braemar Games in 1982 (lot 35), the Catherine Walker turquoise silk suit she wore in New Zealand when she rubbed noses with dignitaries in 1983 (lot 34) and the elegant Bruce Oldfield crushed velvet evening gown worn to a state dinner in Portugal in 1987 (lot 36).

Fashion icon Audrey Hepburn is represented by a silvery grey hat and muff made by Jacques Fath and in which she was photographed for Harper’s Bazaar in 1956 (lot 116).

Anyone following the excellent Netflix series ‘The Crown’ might like the pretty Horrockses gown worn by Princess Margaret in 1967 (lot 33).

Our strong Japanese section is headlined by an Issey Miyake bustier, lot 260 (an identical piece was worn by Grace Jones in concert in London in 1981) and a multi-layered Comme des Garçons ‘Body Meets Dress’ collection dress complete with pillow padded petticoat, lot 279. As Rei Kawakubo has been chosen as the subject for next spring’s Costume Institute exhibition and gala at the Metropolitan Museum – it would be a highly appropriate outfit for the red carpet!

PLEASE NOTE: WE CANNOT APPROVE BIDDERS ONCE THE AUCTION BEGINS SO PLEASE REGISTER WELL IN ADVANCE OF THE AUCTION, THANK YOU.

Auction: Monday December 12th at 2pm

Viewing:
Friday December 9th, 9-5pm
Sunday December 11th, 12-4pm
Monday December 12th, morning viewing by appointment only

Terms & Conditions

Conditions of Business for Buyers 


1. Introduction

(a) The contractual relationship of Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd &. and Sellers with prospective Buyers is governed by:-

(i)these Conditions of Business for Buyers;

(ii)the Conditions of Business for Sellers displayed in the saleroom and available from Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd;

(iii)Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd’s Authenticity Guarantee;

(iv)any additional notices and terms printed in the sale catalogue, in each case as amended by any saleroom notice or auctioneer's announcement.

(b) As auctioneer, Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd acts as agent for the Seller. Occasionally, Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd may own or have a financial interest in a lot.

 

2. Definitions

"Bidder" is any person making, attempting or considering making a bid, including Buyers;

"Buyer" is the person who makes the highest bid or offer accepted by the auctioneer, including a Buyer’s principal when bidding as agent;

"Seller" is the person offering a lot for sale, including their agent, or executors;

 “KT” means Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd of 249-253 Long Lane, Bermondsey, London, SE1 4PR, company number 7173571

"Buyer’s Expenses" are any costs or expenses due to Kerry Taylor Auctions from the Buyer;

"Buyer’s Premium" is the commission payable by the Buyer on the Hammer Price at the rates set out in the Guide for Prospective Buyers;

"Hammer Price" is the highest bid for the Property accepted by the auctioneer at the auction or the post auction sale price;

"Purchase Price" is the Hammer Price plus applicable Buyer’s Premium and Buyer’s Expenses;

"Reserve Price" (where applicable) is the minimum Hammer Price at which the Seller has agreed to sell a lot.

 

The Buyer’s Premium, Buyer’s Expenses and Hammer Price are subject to VAT, where applicable.

 

3. Examination of Lots

(a) KT’s knowledge of lots is partly dependent on information provided by the Seller and KT is unable to exercise exhaustive due diligence on each lot. Each lot is available for examination before sale. Bidders are responsible for carrying out examinations and research before sale to satisfy themselves over the condition of lots and accuracy of descriptions.

(b) All oral and/orwritteninformation provided to Bidders relating to lots, including descriptions in the catalogue, condition reports or elsewhere are statements of KT’s opinion and not representations of fact. Estimates may not be relied on as a prediction of the selling price or value of the lot and may be revised from time to time at KT’s absolute discretion.

 

4. Exclusions and limitations of liability to Buyers

(a) KT shall refund the Purchase Price to the Buyer in circumstances where it deems that the lot is a Counterfeit, subject to the terms of KT’s Authenticity Guarantee.

(b) Subject to Condition 4(a), neither KT nor the Seller:-

(i)is liable for any errors or omissions in any oral or written information provided to Bidders by KT, whether negligent or otherwise;

(ii)gives any guarantee or warranty to Bidders and any implied warranties and conditions are excluded (save in so far as such obligations cannot be excluded by English law), other than the express warranties given by the Seller to the Buyer (for which the Seller is solely responsible) under the Conditions of Business for Sellers;

(iii)accepts responsibility to Bidders for acts or omissions (whether negligent or otherwise) by KT in connection with the conduct of auctions or for any matter relating to the sale of any lot.

(c) Without prejudice to Condition 4(b), any claim against KT and/ or the Seller by a Bidder is limited to the Purchase Price for the relevant lot. Neither KT nor the Seller shall be liable for any indirect or consequential losses.

(d) Nothing in Condition 4 shall exclude or limit the liability of KT or the Seller for death or personal injury caused by the negligent acts or omissions of KT or the Seller.

 

5. Bidding at Auction

(a) KT has absolute discretion to refuse admission to the auction. Before sale, Bidders must complete a Registration Form and supply such information and references as KT requires. Bidders are personally liable for their bid and are jointly and severally liable with their principal, if bidding as agent (in which case KT’s prior and express consent must be obtained).

(b) KT advises Bidders to attend the auction, but KT will endeavour to execute absentee written bids provided that they are, in KT’s opinion, received in sufficient time and in legible form.

(c) When available, written and telephone bidding is offered as a free service at the Bidder’s risk and subject to KT’s other commitments; KT is therefore not liable for failure to execute such bids. Telephone bidding may be recorded.

(d)Please note that any lots purchased via the-saleroom.com live auction service will be subject to an additional 3% commission charge + VAT at the rate imposed on the hammer price

 

 

6. Import, Export and Copyright Restrictions

KT and the Seller make no representations or warranties as to whether any lot is subject to import, export or copyright restrictions. It is the Buyer's sole responsibility to obtain any copyright clearance or any necessary import, export or other licence required by law, including licenses required under the Convention on the International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES).

 

7. Conduct of the Auction

(a) The auctioneer has discretion to refuse bids, withdraw or re-offer lots for sale (including after the fall of the hammer) if (s)he believes that there may be an error or dispute, and may also take such other action as (s)he reasonably deems necessary.

(b) The auctioneer will commence and advance the bidding in such increments as (s)he considers appropriate and is entitled to place bids on the Seller’s behalf up to the Reserve Price for the lot, where applicable.

(c) Subject to Condition 7(a), the contract between the Buyer and the Seller is concluded on the striking of the auctioneer's hammer.

(d) Any post-auction sale of lots shall incorporate these Conditions of Business.

 

8. Payment and Collection

(a) Unless otherwise agreed in advance, payment of the Purchase Price is due in pounds sterling immediately after the auction (the "Payment Date"). If paying by bank wire, any bank fees must be added so that the final amount received is not less than the invoice total.

(b) Title in a lot will not pass to the Buyer until KT has received the Purchase Price in cleared funds. KT will generally not release a lot to a Buyer before payment. Earlier release shall not affect passing of title or the Buyer's obligation to pay the Purchase Price, as above.

(c) The refusal of any licence or permit required by law, as outlined in Condition 6, shall not affect the Buyer’s obligation to pay for the lot, as per Condition 8(a).

(d) The Buyer must arrange collection of lots within 10 working days of the auction. Purchased lots are at the Buyer's risk from the earliest of (i) collection or (ii) 10 working days after the auction. Until risk passes, KT will compensate the Buyer for any loss or damage to the lot up to a maximum of the Purchase Priceactuallypaid by the Buyer. KT’s assumption of risk is subject to the exclusions detailed in Condition 5(d) of the Conditions of Business for Sellers.

(e) All packing and handling of lots is at the Buyer's risk. KT will not be liable for any acts or omissions of third party packers or shippers.

 

9. Remedies for non-payment

Without prejudice to any rights that the Seller may have, if the Buyer without prior agreement fails to make payment for the lot within 5 working days of the auction,KT may in its sole discretion exercise 1 or more of the following remedies:-

 

(a) store the lot at its premises or elsewhere at the Buyer’s sole risk and expense;

(b) cancel the sale of the lot;

(c) set off any amounts owed to the Buyer by KT against any amounts owed to KT by the Buyer for the lot;

(d) reject future bids from the Buyer;

(e) charge interest at 4% per annum above The Bank of England’s Base Rate from the Payment Date to the date that the Purchase Price is received in cleared funds;

(f) re-sell the lot by auction or privately, with estimates and reserves at KT’s discretion, in which case the Buyer will

be liable for any shortfall between the original Purchase Price and the amount achieved on re-sale, including all costs incurred in such re-sale;(g) exercise a lien over any Buyer’s Property in KT’s possession, applying the sale proceeds to any amounts owed by the Buyer to KT. KT shall give the Buyer 14 days written notice before exercising such lien;

(h) commence legal proceedings to recover the Purchase Price for the lot, plus interest and legal costs;

(i) disclose the Buyer’s details to the Seller to enable the Seller to commence legal proceedings.

(j) disclose the Buyer’s details to other auction houses and any third parties as we see fit

 

10. Failure to collect purchases

(a) If the Buyer pays the Purchase Price but does not collect the lot within 14 working days of the auction, the lot will be stored at the Buyer's expense and risk at KT’s premises or in independent storage.

(b) If a lot is paid for but uncollected within 6 months of the auction, following 60 days written notice to the Buyer, KT will re-sell the lot by auction or privately, with estimates and reserves at KT’s discretion. The sale proceeds, less all KT’s costs, will be forfeited unless collected by the Buyer within 2 years of the original auction.

 

11. Data Protection

(a) KT will use information supplied by Bidders or otherwise obtained lawfully by KT for the provision of auctionrelated services, client administration, marketing and as otherwise required by law.

(b) By agreeing to these Conditions of Business, the Bidder agrees to the processing of their personal information and to the disclosure of such information to third parties world-wide for the purposes outlined in Condition 11(a) and to Sellers as per Condition 9(i).

 

12. Miscellaneous

(a) All images of lots, catalogue descriptions and all other materials produced by KT are the copyright of KT.

(b) These Conditions of Business are not assignable by any Buyer without KT’s prior written consent, but are binding on Bidders' successors, assigns and representatives.

(c) The materials listed in Condition 1(a) set out the entire agreement between the parties.

(d) If any part of these Conditions of Business be held unenforceable, the remaining parts shall remain in full force and effect.

(e) These Conditions of Business shall be interpreted in accordance with English Law, under the exclusive jurisdiction of the English Courts, in favour of KT




Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd Authenticity Guarantee

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If Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd sells an item of Property which is later shown to be a “Counterfeit”, subject to the terms below Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd will rescind the sale and refund the Buyer the total amount paid by the Buyer to Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd for that Property, up to a maximum of the Purchase Price.

 

The Guarantee lasts for one (1) year after the date of the relevant auction, is for the benefit of the Buyer only and is non-transferable.

 

“Counterfeit” means an item of Property that in Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd ‘s reasonable opinion is an imitation created with the intent to deceive over the authorship, origin, date, age, period, culture or source, where the correct description of such matters is not included in the catalogue description for the Property.

Property shall not be considered Counterfeit solely because of any damage and/or restoration and/or modification work .

Please note that this Guarantee does not apply if either:-

(i) the catalogue description was in

accordance with the generally accepted

opinions of scholars and experts at the date of the sale, or the catalogue description indicated that there was a conflict of such opinions; or

(ii) the only method of establishing at the date of the sale that the item was a Counterfeit would have been by means of processes not then generally available or accepted, unreasonably expensive or impractical; or likely to have caused damage to or loss in value to the Property (in Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd’s reasonable opinion); or

(iii) there has been no material loss in value of the Property from its value had it  accorded with its catalogue description.

 

To claim under this Guarantee, the Buyer must:-

(i) notify Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd in writing within one (1) month of receiving any information that causes the Buyer to

question the authenticity or attribution of the Property, specifying the lot number,

date of the auction at which it was

purchased and the reasons why it is believed to be Counterfeit; and

(ii) return the Property to Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd in the same condition as at the date of sale and be able to transfer good title in the Property, free from any third party claims arising after the date of the sale.

 

Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd has discretion to waive any of the above requirements. Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd may require the Buyer to obtain at the Buyer's cost the reports of two independent and recognised experts in the relevant field. Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd shall not be bound by any reports produced by the Buyer, and reserves the right to seek additional expert advice at its own expense. In the event Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd decides to rescind the sale under this Guarantee, it may refund to the Buyer the reasonable costs of up to two mutually approved independent expert reports, provided always that the costs of such reports have been approved in advance and in writing by Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd.

 

See Full Terms and Conditions